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HUBBARDSTON NONSUCH APPLE. 



IFIWESflllSIEI BH^ra!" IPHAIEc 



/ 

A BOOK FOR EVERY BODY. 

THE 

AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK; 

122. 



CONTAINING DIRECTIONS FOR 



RAISING, PROPAGATING, AND MANAGING 
FRUIT TREES, SHRUBS, AND PLANTS; 

WITH A DESCRIPTION OP THE 

BEST VARIETIES OF FRUIT, 



INCLUDING 



NEW AND VALUABLE KINDS; 



EMBELLISHED AND ILLUSTRATED 

WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS OF FRUITS, TREES, INSECTS. 
GRAFTING, BUDDING, TRAINING, &c, &c. 



BY S. W. POLE, 

EDITOR OP THE NEW ENGLAND FARMER. LATE EDITOR OP THE BOSTON 

CULTIVATOR, AUTHOR OF THE AMERICAN VETERINARIAN, AND 

FORMERLY EDITOR OF THE YANKEE FARMER, AND 



FARMER'S JOURNAL. 



BOSTON: 
PUBLISHED BY JOHN P. JEWETT, 

No. 23, CORNHILL. 

NEW YORK: C. M. SAXTON. 
1849. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1849, by 

S . W . COLE, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States 
for the District of Massachusetts. 



Mr. Ernst, of Cincinnati, O., has politely furnished, for this 
work, a list of fruits adapted to that section. 

Mr. Elliott, of Cleveland, O., has furnished a list adapted 
to that region, selected for this work, by Prof. Kirtland and 
himself; for which we are under great obligations. When their 
opinions vary, the preference of each is indicated by his initial. 

The above are two distant and prominent sections in the West. 

We copy the. list of Mr. Barry, of Rochester, N. Y., from the 
Genesee Farmer. 

The Engravings in this work have been done by Mr. S. E. 
Brown, a skilful artist. 

We have occasionally made remarks on the hardiness of fruits 
in Maine, as we have a specimen orchard there, where we try 
many varieties. 

The outlines of apples and of pears contain the name within 
them, excepting when two outlines are connected, and then they 
are marked in the outline, or pointed out in the context. The 
outlines of cherries include numbers, correspondent with the 
number of the fruit they represent. 



Stereotyped by 
GEORGE A. CURTIS; 

NEW ENGLAND TYPE AND STEREOTYPE FOUNDERY, 
BOSTON. 



^r 



PREFACE. 

In our early childhood, we joyfully feasted on fruits, both 
wild and cultivated, and from that time we have regarded them 
as "pleasant to the sight and good for food," ranking among the 
most delightful and valuable productions of the earth. 

In our boyhood, we anxiously watched the early bearing trees, 
and became familiar with hundreds of varieties of fruits, and 
could select each from a promiscuous heap, and define its name, 
character, and location. This early discipline of the mind has 
been highly advantageous ; and the love of fruits, and a pleasure 
in their cultivation, have 

" Grown with our growth and strengthened with our strength ; " 

and the subject never tires, as it is rich in variety, vast in extent, 
and every season brings something fresh and interesting, as new 
fruits are continually springing into existence. 

We have long conducted journals in which fruits have been 
a conspicuous subject, and this has opened a wide acquaintance, 
and an extensive correspondence and interchange, with numerous 
fruit growers, in different parts of the country ; and our observa- 
tions, when visiting orchards and fruit gardens, have afforded us 
peculiar advantages, in seeing trees in various locations, and 
under different management. We have, also, constantly in- 
spected one of the largest markets, in a region of the greatest 
variety and extent of fruit culture — a wide field of experiments 
on natives and exotics — and, owing to varying seasons, and 
precarious crops, inviting productions from all parts of the 
country. 

The exhibitions of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, 
one of the most enlightened and efficient associations in the 
world, we have long examined ; and we gratefully acknowledge 
the politeness of officers and members of this association, for 
numerous favors. By the perusal of the various agricultural and 
horticultural journals, we have been apprised of all new and 
excellent fruits produced in different sections, and the prevalent 
opinions concerning them. 

These advantages, with diligence and zeal in turning them to 
account, with our own practice from early life, in the pleasant 
pursuit of growing fruits, and in raising and managing trees in 
the nursery and orchard, may justify us in offering this work, as 
the result of long experience and extensive observation, combined 
with the opinions of a great many of the most intelligent fruit 
growers, and able pomologists, in the country. 

Our object has been, to furnish a book adapted to the wants, 
and within the means, of every family in the country — emphat- 
1* 



VI PREFACE. 

ically a work for the million — containing all the practical 
information necessary for the production and successful manage- 
ment of trees, and the selection of the best varieties of fruit, 
in order to excite greater attention, both in cultivator and 
consumer, in raising more and superior fruits, and in their 
extensive use as wholesome food, an improving ingredient in 
various culinary preparations, and not only a harmless, but a 
healthful luxury. It will be found valuable in the family, as a 
branch of science, far more useful than subjects that are foreign 
to the practical purposes of life. 

Nearly every variety of excellent fruit is cultivated in this 
region. For the peculiar character of new kinds, in distant 
parts of the country, and some others adapted to particular loca- 
tions, we rely on judicious cultivators in such sections, and our 
authorities are often quoted. 

This manual has been condensed from a collection of materials 
sufficient for several volumes, containing the substance of the 
whole. This has been a more laborious task than the prepara- 
tion of a voluminous work. 

A prominent feature is a preference for native fruits ; and 
we have introduced many new and valuable kinds, a number of 
which (some of the highest rank) have never been known to the 
public, excepting by our distributions and notices. 

We have endeavored to discriminate between fruits that are 
excellent, indifferent, and poor. It avails but little, to give 
hundreds of kinds, all " excellent " — " fine " — " desirable," &c, 
when not one-fourth are worth cultivating. It leads the inex- 
perienced into a labyrinth of confusion, vexation, and disap- 
pointment. 

Although this book is of humble pretensions, both in size and 
price, yet, owing to its comprehensive style, and economical 
arrangement, it contains a large amount of matter, describing the 
most valuable fruits, with a discriminating view of some of less 
importance, and a cautionary account of a few that have acquired 
a name beyond their merits. 

A work of this character is very liable to criticism, as fruits 
vary greatly, from climate, season, location, soil, management, 
and various incidents ; tastes, also, vary materially. We give 
general characteristics and habits, aware that there are many 
exceptions. 

We shall be happy to receive opinions on any subject in this 
work, confirmatory or exceptive. Also, specimens of fruits, 
scions, &c, of new and decidedly superior varieties, from any 
section of this country, or from more distant regions, will be 
very acceptable, and duly acknowledged. 

S. W. COLE. 

Chelsea and (Quincy Hall) Boston. 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 

We have, at various periods of our life, received instruction 
from numerous works, domestic and foreign, on the subjects 
embraced in this work ; but in its immediate preparation, we 
have depended — next to our own experience and observation — 
mostly on the intelligent cultivator and able nomologist of the 
present time, and on recent works of the highest authority, a few 
of which we name : — 

Fruit and Fruit Trees of America, by A. J. Downing, New- 
burg, N. Y. 

The Grape, by J. F. Allen, Salem, Ms. 

Magazine of Horticulture, (monthly,) by C. M. Hovey, Cam- 
bridge, Ms. 

Horticulturist, (monthly,) by A. J. Downing. 

Insects Injurious to Vegetation, by Dr. T. W. Harris, Cam- 
bridge, Ms. 

New England Fruit Book, by the late Robert Manning, 
revised by John M. Ives. 

Fruits of America, (bi-monthly,) colored engravings, by C. 
M. Hovey. 

Family Kitchen Garden, by Robert Buist, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Western Farmer and Gardener, formerly by Rev. H. W. 
Beecher. 

Albany Cultivator, Horticultural Department,by J. J. Thomas. 

American Agriculturist, by A. B. Allen. 

Genesee Farmer, Horticultural Department, by P. Barry. 

Ohio Cultivator, by T. M. Bateham. 

Report of the Ohio Fruit Convention, prepared by F. R. Elliott. 

Prairie Farmer. III., by J. S. Wright, and J. A. Wight. 

New England Farmer, Old Series. 

Boston Cultivator. 

Massachusetts Ploughman, by Wm. Buckminster. 

Farmer's Monthly Visitor, by ex-Governor Hill. 

Maine Farmer, by Dr. Holmes. 

Michigan Farmer, by Rev. W. Isham. 

Besides the above, we have added to our means and sources of 
information, by access to all the agricultural and horticultural 
journals throughout the country, as well as many which are pub- 
lished abroad, including various books which have appeared 
since the present era of agricultural and horticultural improve- 
ment. 

We are indebted to numerous fruit-growers, and nurserymen, 
for various favors, such as specimens of fruit, scions, trees, vines, 
plants, &c; for the communication of facts and opinions, person- 
ally, by correspondence, or through the public journals ; and to 
many whom we have visited, for an exhibition of their orchards 
and fruit gardens, and for the detailed accounts of their experi- 
ments and observations with which they have kindly favored us. 



s 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 



To have inserted the names of the numerous class above 
named, together with such compliments as they deserved for 
their generosity, their skill and interest, in this noble science, 
would have required an amount of room, which, though cer- 
tainly well employed, would not, perhaps, have been so useful to 
the general reader, as the matter which, thereby, must have been 
excluded. 

We give a few names, mostly as a matter of economy as to 
room, saving us, through the work, frequent repetitions of the 
whole address. This we have done, generally, without per- 
mission ; but we would simply remark, that no gentleman is 
responsible for any views which we have expressed ; as, in his 
particular location, as well as from other varying circumstances, he 
may have found different results from those which we have given. 



Allen, J. F., Salem, Ms 

Barker, Dr. S. A., McConnels- 
ville, O. 

Barry, P., Rochester, N. Y. 

Beecher, Rev. H. W., Brook- 
lyn, N. Y., late of Indiana. 

Buist, Robert, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Brinckle, Dr. W. D., " " 

Byram, H. P., Bradensburg,Ky. 

Cabot, Joseph S., Salem, Ms. 

Colton, Samuel, Worcester, Ms. 

Darling, N., New Haven, Ct. 

Downing, A. J., Newburg,N.Y. 

Downing, C, " " " 

Dodge, A. W., Hamilton, Ms. 

Eaton, L. C, Providence, R. I. 

Earle, John Milton, Ed. Spy, 
Worcester, Ms. 

Elliott, F. R., Cleveland, O. 

Ernst, A. H., Cincinnati, O. 

Fowler, S. P., Danvers, Ms. 

French, B. V., Braintree, Ms. 

Goodale, Stephen L., Saco, Me. 

Haggerston, David, late far- 
mer and gardener to J. P. 
Cushing, Esq., Watertown. 

Harkness, Edsom, Peoria, 111. 

Hall, Moses, Portland, Me. 

Harris, Dr. T. W., Cambridge, 
Ms. 

Hodge, Benj., Buffalo, N. Y 

Holmes, Dr. E., Winthrop, Me. 

Hovey, C. M. , Cambridge. 

Humrickhouse, T. S., Coshoc- 
ton, O. 



Ives, J. M., Salem, Ms. 
Johnson, Otis, Lynn, Ms. 
Kirtland, Dr.J.P.,Cleveland,0. 
Kittredge, Dr. Rufus, Ports- 
mouth, N. H. 
Little, Henry, Bangor, Me. 
Longworth, N., Cincinnati, O. 
Lovitt, J., 2d., Beverly, Ms. 
Macondry, F. W., Dorchester, 

Ms. 
Manning, Robert, Salem, Ms. 
Newhall, Cheever, Dorchester, 

Ms. 
Pike, A., Watertown, Ms. 
Pinneo, J., Hanover, N. H. 
Pond, S., Cambridgeport, Ms. 
Reeves, S., Salem, N. J. 
Richards, E. M., Dedham, Ms. 
Shurtleff, Dr. S. A., Brookline, 

Ms. 
Springer, Rev. C, Meadow 

Farm, O. 
Tabor, D., Vassalborough, Me. 
Teschernacher,J.E.,Boston,Ms. 
Thomas, David, Aurora, N. Y. 
Thomas, J. J., Macedon, N.Y. 
Walker, Samuel, Roxbury, Ms. 
Wendell, Dr. H., Albany, N.Y. 
Wight, Dr. E., Dedham, Ms. 
Wilder, M. P., Dorchester, Ms. 
Weller, Dr. Sidney, Brinckney- 

ville, N. C. 
Williams & Son, A. D., and 

A. D. Jr., Roxbury, Ms, 



INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY. 



Feuits are generally described in familiar language ; a few 
technical terms, only, are used. 

The position of fruits, as represented by engravings, is stem 
upward, as it usually hangs on the tree ; yet, in description, the 
stem end is called the base or bottom, as it is next to the branch 
or tree, and the blossom end is called the top, summit, crown, 
apex, or eye. 

Sizes are expressed by comparative terms ; as, extremely large 

— very large — large — rather, or tolerably large — large medial 

— medial — small medial — rather small — small — very small — 
extremely small. These form a gradation of sizes. 

Forms of fruit are multifarious, varying, all the way, from one 
extreme to another. The following figures and remarks will aid 
the inexperienced. 

Round. This simple form is most common to fraits, and other 
substances. It is the basis on which other forms are calculated. 
Figure 1. Black Hamburgh Grape. Slight deviations are 
Roundish., as the peach on page 178. 

Appleform is the most common modification of the circle. 
The base or stem end is the larger. Fig. 2. Baldwiu Apple. 





Round. Appleform. Pear/orm. Oval. 



Pearform, or Pyriform, is the reverse of appleform, as the 
base is the smaller. Fig. 3. Andrews Pear. Pears generally 
taper more to the small end than apples. 

All other Forms are modifications of these three leading forms. 

Oval, the circle modified or elongated lengthwise. Fig. 4. 
Smith's Orleans Plum ; White Muscat Grape. 

Flat, the circle elongated crosswise. Fig. 5. Briggs's Auburn 
Apple, Rambo Apple. 

Oblong-, the height greater than the diameter. Fig. 6. Porter 
Apple ; Coe's Golden Drop Plum ; Portugal Quince. 



INTRODUCTION, OK EXPLANATORY. 
Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7. Fig. 8. 





Flat. Oblong. Ovate Obuvate. 

Ovate, the form of an egg ; the base the larger end. Fig. 7. 
Williams Apple ; High Bush Blackberry is long-ovate. 

Obovnte, ovate form reversed. Pig. 8. Osborn's Summer Pear ; 
Blue Imperatriee Plum ; Cranberry, page 279. 

Conical, tapering much, and straightly, or nearly so, to the top 
or calyx. Fig. 9. Burr's New Pine Strawberry. 

Turbinate, top-shaped. Fig. 10. Dearborn's Seedling Pear. 
Fig. 9. Fig. 10. Fig. 11. Fig. 12. 




Conical. Turbinate. Heart-shaped. . Angular. 

Heart-shaved, shape of a heart. A form peculiar to cherries. 
Fig. 11. Elton Cherry. 

Angular, elongated diagonally, one side the lower, the other 
the higher. Fig. 12. Newtown Pippin, 

A combination or modification of these forms, is expressed by 
a combination of these and various other terms ; as, roundish-flat, 
flattish-round, flattish-conical, roundish-conical, oblong-conical, 
roundish-ovate, oblong-ovate, obtuse-pyriform, acute-pyriform, 
obovate-pyriform, turbinate-pyriform, roundish-pyriform, flattish- 
roundish-conical, roundish-acute-pyriform, obtuse-heart-shaped, 
acute-heart-shaped, roundish-heart-shaped, &c., &c. 

Calville-shaped, prominently ribbed and irregular. 

Ribbed, having moderate protuberances on the sides. 

Undulating- or Waved, having very gentle swellings on the 
sides, or in the cavity or basin. 

Colors of fruit are described in terms so familiar, that they 
need no explanation. They should represent the fruit as it ap- 
pears when ripe or perfect for use. 

The Stem is also called stalk, and the hollow in which it is 
set is called 

Cavity, which is of various forms. 



INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY. XI 

The Calyx is the remains of the blossom, and the parts of 
it are called segments. The calyx is generally in a depression or 

Basin, which is of various shapes, and is smooth, waved, fur- 
rowed, plaited, or notched. 

Suture is a hollow or furrow on stone fruit, extending length- 
wise round, nearly round, mostly round, half round, or partially 
round it. It is peculiar to peaches and plums. 

The Time of Ripening, in this work, refers to the latitude of 
Ms., or this region, which is nearly the same as Central and 
Western N. Y., Mich., and Iowa. In the Southern parts of Me., 
N. H., and Vt., fruit ripens 10 or 12 days later ; in the Northern 
parts of those States, 3 or 4 weeks later. In the Southern parts 
of Ct. and N. Y., and Northern parts of N. J., Pa., O., 111., Ind., 
&c, about 2 weeks earlier. In Southern N. J., Pa., and Central 
O., Ind., 111., and Northern Mo., 3 or 4 weeks earlier. The time 
is a little earlier in the same latitude Westward. Location has 
great effect. (Page 61.) The time of fruits, of other sections, 
has been estimated by comparison with well known kinds. 
Mostly, time is given from our observation for several years. 

Tables of Fkuit, pages 137, 175, 200, 220, 233. Common 
type, dessert fmit, as Williams apple. Italics, cooking, as St. 
Lawrence. Part in each type, for both purposes ; and hest for 
that indicated by the first type, as Foundling-, best for the des- 
sert ; River, best for cooking. In this way, it may be shown that 
a fruit is almost wholly for one purpose or the other, as Sum- 
mer Pearmain, mostly for the table ; Red Astrach^n, mostly for 
the kitchen. Fruits equally good for either purpose, have Italics 
in the middle, as Cole's .Quince, Monamel Sweeting. 

In the column market, the fruits are numbered as preferred for 
market, as 1 the best kind, 2 the next hest, &c. The trees are 
generally vigorous and productive, and the fruit large, fair, of 
good appearance, or showy, and the quality excellent, or tolera- 
bly good. 

In the column Home Use, the fruits are numbered as preferred 
for the private garden or home consumption. They are of superior 
quality, but not always large, nor are the trees always vigorous 
and productive. Some kinds are good, only as taken from the 
tree, as the Early Joe apple, and some are too tender to bear 
transportation to the market, as Fastolff Raspberry, Coolidge 
Peach, and many others. 

In numbering fruits, both for market and for home, care has 
been taken to select such as ripen at different periods, so that an 
assortment will give a succession through the season of that 
species of fruit. In selecting the best apples and pears for 
Summer, Fall, and Winter, those for each season are marked 
distinctly. 

The column Quality, shows the quality of fruit, on a scale from 
1 the very best, to 10 the poorest, and should be read No. 1, 2, 



Xll INTRODUCTION, OR EXPLANATORY. 

3, &c, not 1st, 2nd, and 3d rate, which is very indefinite, as 
there is a wide difference between 1st and 2nd rate ; and A 1, 
B 1, A 2, &c, is a confused mode, difficult to understand and 
apply. The quality is for the purposes indicated by the types, 
as dessert or cooking, and our mode of expressing it is simple 
and definite. 

Column Hardiness, shows this quality in fruit, as to rotting, 
running from 1, very hardy, to 10, very liable to rot. 

As to Quality, Tastes vary very much. Many men, and 
writers on fruit generally, prefer a smart, vinous, or Cham- 
pagne flavor, such as the Dix and Beurre de Aremberg pears, and 
some even admire the still more acid Brown Beurre, also white- 
fleshed vinous-flavored peaches ; while some men, and most 
women and children, the great majority, prefer sweet or mild 
luscious fruits, such as the Seckel and Winter Nelis pears, yel- 
low-fleshed, sweet, rich peaches. Who shall decide, when Doc- 
tors of Pomology would prescribe for those who are sane, and 
need no advice ? A taste for acid or smart-flavored fruits is nat- 
ural with some, and it may be acquired or increased, by the use 
of stimulants or narcotics. 

Dessert, Table, and Eating, all have the same meaning, 
and are applied to fine, delicious fruits. 

Cooking and Kitchen are applied to acid or austere fruits, 
used for culinary purposes. Sometimes, mild or sweet fruits are 
used for cooking ; as, sweet apples, peaches, plums. &c. 

An Amateur is one who generally cultivates for pleasure, and 
has time and money ; and he regards not so much the cost of 
fruit, or its value in market, as its excellent quality. Sometimes, 
beauty is an object with him. 

Middle Region is a term that we use for the Middle States, 
and the same latitude west. 

Pomology, the art or science of raising fruits and judging of 
their qualities. It is becoming a regular, extensive, important, 
and delightful science, adapted to the taste of all. 

Pomologist, one interested and skilled in the knowledge of 
fruits. 

Pippin is an indefinite term, implying nothing more nor less 
than apple. 

The Nomenclature of fruits is in a confused state. Some 
fruits have a great many names ; while, in other cases, the same 
name is applied to many varieties. All cultivators should 
endeavor to remedy this evil, by learning and abiding by the true 
standard name. It is acknowledged that the producer of fruit 
has the best right to name it. If he neglect it, the discoverer of 
a new kind may name it ; and next in order comes the claim of 
him who introduces it to the public. All uncouth, and very long 
names should be avoided, as Ramshorns, Hogpen, Back of the 
Barn Apple, &c. All apples, decidedly sweet, should include 
in their name the term Sweet or Siceeting. 



GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. 



Acclimation, 62. 

Almond, history, uses, soil, propagation, climate, &c, 283. 

American blight, 93. 

Aphides, 73, 187. 

Apple, history, uses, 81 ; soil and location, 83 ; propagation, 84 
planting, culture, and manure, 85 ; pruning, hearing years, 86 
insects, 87 ; gathering and preserving, 94 ; varieties. 95 
summer, 97 ; fall, 103 ; winter and spring, 122 ; for ornament, 
preserves and cider, 137 ; tables of order in ripening and selec- 
tions of choice kinds, 133, 139, 140. 

Apple-borer, description of and its habits, 88 ; remedies for, 89 ; 

Apple-worms, 89 ; description of their habits, remedies, 90. 

Apricot, history, uses, propagation, 259 ; soil, location, &c.,260. 

Bands for budding, 45. 

Barberry, 237 ; uses, 288. 

Bark-louse, 93. 

Bats destroy insects. 73. 

Birds destroyers of insects, 73 ; to frighten, 75. 

Blackberry, history, 277 ; uses, soil, propagation, and culture, 
278. 

Black walnut, 286. 

Blossoms, to protect from frost, 72 ; description of, 76. 

Blueberry, 283. 

Budding, effects of, subjects for, requisites to success, time for, 
41 ; spring budding, preparation and saving of scions, modes 
of budding, 43 ; on removing the wood, bands, &c., 45. 

Butternut, 286. 

Canker-worm, 90. Caterpillar, 92. 

Causes of failure, 68. 

Cherry, history, uses, soil and location, 222 ; propagation, 223 ; 

planting, culture, pruning, &c., 224 ; in the South, in the West, 

insects, 225 ; classification, varieties, 226 ; ornamental, 237 ; 

tables of, and selection of choice kinds, 238, 239. 
Chestnuts, 286. 

Cider, manufacture of, 93. Citron, 285. 
Clay for grafting, 40. Climate, effects of, 60. 
Cranberry, history, uses, culture on wet land, 279 ; culture on 

high land, 280. 
Cross-fertilization, to produce new varieties, 65. 
Cultivation, 51. 
Culture, effects of, 60. 
2 



14 GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. 

Cuttings, propagation by, 31. 

Currants, history, uses, soil, propagation, culture, &c., 269 ; in- 
sects, varieties, 270. 

Declension of fruits, 65. Disbarking, 70. 

Dwarfing. 63 ; effected by root pruning, by transplanting, by 

stocks, 67 ; by shortening-in, 183. 
Early bearing, 67. English walnut, 286. 
Pig, 231, 282. Filbert, 286. 

Fruits, utility of. 25 ; profits of, 27 ; testing fairly, 75. 
Fruitfulness, to induce, 67. 

Gathering fruits, 79 ; apples, 94 ; pears, 150. 

Gooseberry, history, uses, soil, and management, 272 ; varieties, 
273. 

Grafting, its advantages, time for, 33 ; subjects for, cutting and 
saving scions, 34 ; cleft, scarfing the stock, 36 ; splice, side, 
37 ; crown, saddle, root, 38 ; composition for, 39 ; composition 
cloth, clay for, after management, 40. 

Grafting composition, 39. 

Grape, history, uses, 240 ; soil and location, propagation, 241 ; 
culture and manure, 243 ; planting in vine\ r ards and gardens, 
cultivation under glass, 244 ; training, 245 ; reduction of fruit, 
bleeding, mildew, 243 ; insects, preserving, 249 ; foreign, 250 ; 
native, 252. 

Inarching, 46 ; to save girdled trees by, 71. 

Insects, their devastations, 72 ; remedies, 73 ; see also pages 87, 

&C ; 184, &c. ; 204, 225. 
Labels, of various kinds, 76. 
Laying in trees by the heels, 49. 
Layering, 31. Lemon, 235. Lime, 235. 
Location, effects of, 60. 

Manures, 52 ; compost for all kinds of trees, liquid, 53 ; effects 

of on fruit, 62. 
Mulching, 50. Mulberry, 2S7. 

Nectarines, 199. 

New varieties of fruit from seed, 65. 

Olive, history, uses varieties, 285. Orange, 284. 

Packing trees, 43. 

Peach, history, 178 ; uses, soil, and location, 179 ; propagation, 
180 ; planting, training, and pruning, 182 ; wash, 184 ; diseases 
and insects, 1S4 ; marks of distinction, 1S8 ; varieties, 189 ; 
ornamental, 193 ; tables of in order of ripening and selection 
of choice kinds, 200, 201. 

Pear, history, &c., 141; uses, soil, and location, 142 ; propagation, 
143 ; on the quince, 144 ; planting, 145 ; culture and manure, 
146 ; pruning, blight, 147 ; uncertainty of, 149 ; gathering, pre- 



GENERAL INDEX TO SUBJECTS. 15 

serving, and ripening, 150 ; varieties, 150 ; summer, 151 ; fall, 
156 ; winter, 170 ; cooking, 174 ; tables of in order of ripening 
and selection of choice kinds, 175, 176, 177. 

Plum, history, uses, soil, and location, propagation, 202 ; plant- 
ing, culture, manure, and pruning, 203 ; curculio, 204 ; black 
wart, 205 ; varieties, 206 ; ornamental, 219 ; tables of in order 
of ripening and selection of choice kinds, 220, 221. 

Pomegranate, history, 286 ; uses, varieties, 287. 

Preserving fruits. 79. 

Propagation, see seeds, layers, cuttings, grafting, budding, &c. 

Pruning, 57. 

Quince, history, uses, soil, culture, propagation, training, &c, 
256 ; varieties, 257 ; ornamental, 259. 

Raspberry, history, uses, 274 ; soil, propagation, cultivation, &c., 

varieties, 275. 
Renovating old trees, 70. Removing large trees, 51. 
Re-rooting, 47. 

Rose-bug destructive to trees, modes of destroying, 73. 
Rotation, 64. 

Scions, cutting and preserving, 34. 
Scraping, 69. 

Seeds, propagation by, 31. Oo 

Shaddock, 285. Shellbark, 286. Shepherdia, 288. 
Shortening-in, a mode of pruning, 68, 183. Slitting the bark, 70. 
Snakes destroy insects, 73. 
Soil for fruit trees, its improvement and preparation, 28 • its 

effects on fruit, 60. 
Stocks and their effects, 59. 
Strawberry, history, productions, uses, soil, and manure, 261 ; 

propagation, culture, 262 ; constant culture on the same land, 

conditioA of the flowers, 263 ; culture of pistillate plants, 264 ; 

varieties, 265. 

Thinning fruits, 62. 

Training, various modes, 54. 

Transplanting, preparing places for trees, 47 ; taking up trees, 
puddling, reducing the top, packing, 48 ; protecting the roots 
from frost, laying in by the heels, setting, 49 ; mulching, water- 
ing, time for transplanting, removing in summer, 50 ; remov- 
ing large trees, transplanting in the bud, 51. 

Trees, to protect from rabbits, mice,&c, 71. 

Toads destroy insects, 73. 

Tobacco-water for destroying insects, 73. 

Washing, 69. Watering trees, 50. 

Whale oil soap, for destroying insects, 73. 

Wine, manufacture of, 78. Whortleberry, 288, 

Wounds of trees, composition, and a mixture for, 57. 

Yellows, a disease in the peach, 184. 



INDEX TO FRUITS. 



Standard names in Roman letters; Synonyms in Italics. 



ALMONDS. 

Bitter, 284 

Common, 283 

Common Sweet, 283 

Ladies' Thin Shell, .... 283 
Long Hard-Shell, .... 283 

Soft-Shell Sweet, 283 

Ornamental, 284 

APPLES. 

Alexander, 118 

American Golden Russet, . 132 
American Red Juneating, .101 
Am. Summer Pearmain, . .103 
Am. White Winter Calville, 135 

Api Petit, 130 

August Sweeting, .... 99 

Aunt Hannah, 129 

Bailey's Golden Sweet, . . 123 

Baldwin, 128 

Bars, 104 

Beauty of Kent, 114 

Beauty of the West, . . . .111 

Belmont, 121 

Belzer, 103 — Ben, . . . .119 

Benoni, 101 

Bevan — Sevan's Favorite, 99 

Black, 128 

Black Gilliflower, . . . .126 

Blue Pearmain, 120 

Boston Russet, 1 35 

Bough, 99 

Boxford, 110 

Bracken, 97 

Brahant's Bellflower, . . . 129 
Bread and. Cheese, . . . .116 

Briggs's Auburn, 109 

Cabashea, 117 

Can, 132 

Canada Renette, 134 

Carthouse, 135 

Camfield, 137 

Cayuga Red Streak, . . .120 



Chandler, 122 

Chapman's Orange, . . . .Ill 

Cole's Quince, 99 

Cooper, 114 

Cooper's Russeting, . . .137 

Crimson Pippin, 115 

Curtis's Early Stripe, . . 97 
Dan vers Winter Sweet, . .125 
Detroit, 115— Detroit, ... 130 
Devonshire Quarrenden, . 98 

Domine, 131 

Douhle Flowering Crab, . . 137 

Douse, 112 

Dutch Codlin, 109 

Dutch Mignonne, 120 

Dutchess of Oldenburg, . .102 

Dyer, Ill 

Early Harvest, 97 

Early Joe, 105 

Early Pennock, 104 

Early Red Margaret, ... 98 
Early Strawberry, .... 101 
Early Summer Pearmain,. 103 

English Russet, 130 

English Pearmain, . . .122 
Epse Sweet, ....... .125 

Esopus Spitzenberg, . . . 129 

Eustis, 119 

Fairbanks, 108 

Fall Harvey, 117 

Fall Pippin, 117 

Fall Strawberry, . . . . , 111 

Fall Wine, 109 

Fameuse, 118 

Felch, 130 

Flushing Spitzenberg, . . .129 

Foundling, 100 

Garden Royal, 106 

Gate Apple, 121 

Gilpin, 135 

Gloria Mundi, 122 

Golden Ball, 120 

Golden Pippin, .128 



INDEX TO APPLES. 



XV11 



Golden Sweet, 102 

Grand Sachem, 104 

Gravenstein, 110 

Groton, 100 

Hartford Sweeting, . . . .130 

Hagloe Crab, 137 

Harrison, 137 

Haskell Sweet, 103 

Hawley, 112 

Hawthornden, 113 

Hay's Winter, 120 

Herfordshire Pearmain, . .122 
Hewe's Virginia Crab, . .137 

Hogpen, 114 

Holden Pippin, 114 

Holland Pippin, 1 10 

Howe Apple, 104 

Hubbardston Nonsuch, . .113 

Hunt's Russet, 132 

Hurlbut, . 118 

Jersey Sweeting, 110 

Jewett'sRed, 112 

Jonathan, 123 

Jones's Pippin, 114 

Junealing, 97 

Kaighn's Spitzenberg, . . .125 

King, 122 

Ladies' Sweeting, . . . .132 

Lady Apple, 130 

Large Red Siberian Crab, . 137 

Late Baldwin, 128 

Late Straicberry, Ill 

Leicester Sweeting, . . . .130 

Leland Pippin, 110 

Leland Spice, 110 

Lincoln Pippin, 104 

Little Pearmain, 132 

Long Pearmain, 114 

Long Stem, 106 

Lowell, 109 

Lyman's Large Summer, . .104 

Lyscom, Ill 

Magnolia, Ill 

Mafden's Blush, 113 

Male Carle, 116 

Mamma Bean, 121 

Marston's Red Winter, . .125 
McLellan, 125 



Melon, 124 

Melvin Sweet, 121 

Mexico, 105 

Michael Henry Pippin, . . 130 

Minister, 124 

Monamet Sweeting, . . . .102 
Monstrous Pippin, . . . .122 
Moore's Late Sweet, . . .131 

Moses Wood, 110 

Mother, 115 

Murphy, 121 

Never -fail, 136 

New York Spice, 110 

Newtown Pippin, 133 

Newark Sweeting-, . . . .137 
Newtown Spitzenberg, . .125 

Nodhead, 112 

Norfolk, 136 

Northern Spy, 134 

Norton's Melon, 124 

Oaks Apple, 117 

Old Nonsuch, 127 

Orange, 136— Orange,. . . 109 

Orange Sweet, 102 

Orlley Pippin, 130 

Oslin 100 

Osgood's Favorite, . . . .111 

Oxeye, 122 

Pecker, 128 

Peck's Pleasant, 125 

Pennock's Red Winter, . . 128 
Pomme de Niege,, . . . .118 

Pomme Gris, 129 

Pomme Roy ale, Ill 

Porter, 107 

Porter's Sweeting, . . . .130 
Portsmouth Sweet, .... 122 

Pound Royal, 120 

Pound Royal, 109 

Prior's Late Red, . . . .127 

Prior's Red, 127 

Pumpkin Russet, . . . .115 

Pumpkin Sweet, 115 

Putnam Russet, 135 

Queen Anne, 114, Q. Anne, 109 

Quince of Coxe, 115 

Rambo 116 

Ram's Horns, 113 



XV111 



INDEX TO APPLES, APRICOTS, ETC. 



Ramsdell's Sweeting, . . . 118 

Raule's Janette, 136 

Route's Jennetting, . . . .136 

Red Astrachan, 9S 

Red Canada, 127 

Red Cheek, 113 

Red Detroit, 115 

Red Juneating, .... 98 — 101 

Red Quarrenden, 98 

R°d Russet, ...» ... 131 
Red Siberian Crab, . . . .137 
Red Shopshirevine, .... 97 

Red Streak, 137 

Ribston Pippin, 126 

Richfield Nonsuch, . . . .127 

Richardson, 103 

River, 98 

Rhode Island Greening, . . 123 

Rockrimmon, 136 

Romanite, 116—135 

Ross Nonpareil, 114 

Roxbury Russet, 135 

Royal Pear main, 122 

Russet Pearmain, . . . . 1 32 1 

Sassafras Sweet, 108 

Seaver Sweet, 132 

Seek-no-further, 116 

Seek-no -further, 116 

Shawmut, 136 

Sheep Nose, 132 

Shirley, 100 

Sine-qua-non, 103 

Smithfield Spice, Ill 

Snotc Apple, 118 

Sops of Wine, 103 

Spice Sweet, 102 

St. Lawrence, 104 

Stevens's Gilli flower, . . . 123 
Steele's Red Winter, . . .128 
Striped Shopshirevine, . . 97 
Summer Bellflower, . . . .104 
Summer Pearmain, . . . 103 

Summer Queen, 103 

Summer Rose, 101 

Summer Sweet, 97 

Summer Sweet Paradise, . 109 

Superb Sweet, 107 

Swaar, 126 i 



Sweet Bough, 99 

Table Greening, 137 

Tallow, 109 

Talman's Sweeting, . . . .131 
Tewksbury Winter Blush, . 136 

Thompkins, 112 

Tucker, 98 

Tufts's Baldwin, 107 

Twenty Ounce, 120 

Vandevere, 122 

Waxen, 121 

Watermelon, 124 

Wells's Sweeting, 124 

Weston, Ill 

Westfield Seek-no-further, . 127 
White Belljlower, . . . .130 

White Juneating, 97 

White Pi]>pin, 134 

White Seek-no-further, . . 130 
Williams, Wms's Favorite, 100 
Williams's Early Red, . .100 
Wine, 108— Wine of Coxe,. 120 

Winesap, 130 

Winter Nonsuch, 127 

Winter Sweet Paradise, . . 130 
Winthrop Greening, . . .104 
Winthrop Pearmain, . . .111 

Win Russet, 135 

Woodpecker, 128 

Woolman's Long, 130 

YelloiD Bough, 99 

Yellow Bellflower, . . . .119 

Yellow Harvest, 97 

Yellow Siberian Crab, . . 137 

APRICOTS. 
Breda, 261 

Brown's Early, 260 

Dubois's Early Golden, . . 260 

Hemskirke, 260 

Large Early, 260 

Moorpark, 260 

Newhall's Early, 260 

Peach — Roman, 261 

BARBERRY, 287 

BLACKBERRIES,. . . . 277 
BLUEBERRY, 288 



INDEX TO CHERRIES, CURRANTS, ETC. XIX 



CHERRIES. 

Allen's Sweet Montmorency, 237 

American Amber, 235 

American Heart, 230 

Apple, 234 

Baumann's May, 227 

Belle de Choisy, 229 

Belle Magnifique, 237 

Bigarreau, 233 

Bigarreau de Mai, 227 

Black Bigarreau, of Savoy, . 237 

Black Eagle, 231 

Black Heart, 232 

Black Tartarean, 229 

Bloodgood's Honey, .... 235 
Bowyer's Early Heart, . . 229 

Burr's Seedling, 233 

Carnation, 234 

Cleveland Bigarreau, . . . 230 
Coe's Transparent, .... 223 

Common Red, 231 

Davenport, 229 

Davenport's Early, .... 229 

Doctor, 227 

Double Heart, 229 

Downton, . '. 230 

Downer, Downer's Late, . 235 
Downing's Red Cheek, . . 231 

Early Duke, 227 

Early Richmond, 231 

Early Purple Guigne, . . . 227 

Early Virginia, 231 

Early White Heart, .... 223 

Elkhorn 236 

Elliott's Favorite, 232 

Elton, 229 

English Morello, 236 

Flesh -colored Bigarreau,. .232 

Florence, 233 

Gridley, 234 

Holland Bigarreau, .... 232 

Honey Heart, 234 

Hyde*s Late Black, .... 23? 

Hyde's Seedling, 232 

Kentish, 231 

Kirtland's Mary, . . . . 231 
Knight's Early Black, 



Large, Heart-shaped Big. 

arreau, 232 

Late Bigarreau, 235 

Late Duke, 236 

Late Honey, 235 

Late Kentish, 237 

Lemercier, 236 

Manning's Late Black, . . 234 

May Duke, 227 

Montmorency, 231 

Morello, 236 

Napoleon Bigarreau, . . . 234 

Ohio Beauty, 228 

Oxheart of Coxe, 230 

Plumstone Morello, .... 236 

Pie Cherry, 237 

Richardson, 231 

Rockport Bigarreau, . . . 227 
Rodger's Pale Red, . . . 234 
Rumsey's Late Morello, . . 236 

Sumner's Honey, 228 

Sparhawk's Honey, .... 234 
Sweet Montmorency, . . . 237 
Tradescant's Black Heart, . 236 
Warren's Transparent, . . 237 
Wendell's Mottled Big, . . 236 

White Bigarreau, 230 

White Bigarreau, .... 233 

White Oxheart, 230 

White Tartarean, 233 

Yellow Spanish, 233 

Ornamental, 237 

CRANBERRY, 279 

CURRANTS. 

Black Naples, 271 

Champagne, 271 

Cherry 271 

Common Black, 271 

Knight's Early Red, . . .271 
Knight's Sweet Red, . . . 271 
Large Red Dutch, .... 270 

May's Victoria, 271 

New White Dutch, . . . .271 

Red Dutch, 270 

White Dutch, 271 

Ornamental, 271 



.228 
Large Red Bigarreau, . . . 235 1 FIGS, various kinds, 



282 



XX 



INDEX TO GOOSEBERRIES, GRAPES, ETC. 



GOOSEBERRIES. 

Crown Bob, 

Early Sulphur, 

Farrow's Roaring' Lion, . 

Green Walnut, 

Houghton's Seedling, . . . 

Keene's Seedling, 

Melling's Crown Bob, . . 
Parkinson's Laurel, . . . . 

Red Champagne, 

Red Warrington, 

Roaring Lion, 

Venus, 

Whitesmith, 

Woodward's Whitesmith,, . 
Yellow Champagne, . . . 
GRAPES — FOREIGN. 

Alicant, 

Black Cluster, 

Black Frontignan, . . . . 
Black Hamburgh, . . . . 

Black Lombard y, 

Black Prince, 

Boston, 

Charge's Henling, . . . . 

Decan's Superb, 

Early White Muscat, . . . 
Early White Muscadine, . 

Golden Chaselas, 

Purple Constantia, . . . . 
Purple Hamburgh, . . . . 
Royal Muscadine, . . . . 

Victoria, 

West's St. Peters, . . . .. 

White Chaselas, 

White Constantia, . . . . 
White Frontignan, . . . . 
White Muscat, Alexandria,. 
White Muscadine, Lindley,. 
White Muscadine, . . . . 
White Sweetwater, . . . . 



274 
274 
274 
274 
273 
274 
274 
274 
274 
273 
274 
274 
274 
274 
274 



Alexander's, .... 
American Muscadine, 

Bland, 

Bland's Virginia, . 
Cape, 



250 
252 
251 
250 
251 
250 
250 
251 
251 
252 
252 
251 
251 
250 
251 
250 
251 
251 
251 
251 
251 
252 
251 
252 



254 
254 

255 
255 
254 



Catawba, 253 

Clinton, 254 

Diana, 253 

Elsinburgh, 255 

Halifax Seedling, 254 

Herbemont, 255 

HerbemonVs Madeira, . . 255 

Isabella, 253 

Lenoir, 255 

Limington White, .... 255 
Longworth's Ohio, .... 255 

Missouri, 255 

Norton's Seedling, .... 254 
Norton's Virginia, .... 254 

Ohio, 255 

Seedling Schuylkill Mus. . 255 
Schuylkill Muscadell, . . . 254 
Shurtleff's Seedling, . . . 254 
White Scuppernong, . . . 254 

Winnie, 254 

Various others, 255 

MULBERRIES, 287 

NECTARINE. 

Anderson's, 199 

Boston, 199 

Claremont, 199 

Downton, 199 

Early Violet, 199 

Elruge, 199 

Hardwick's Seedling, . . .199 
Hunt's Tawney, . ". . . .199 
Hunt's Early Tawney, . .199 
Large Early Violet, . . . .199 

Lewis, 199 

New White, 199 

Perkins's Seedling, . . . .199 

Violet Hative, 199 

Violet Aromatic, 199 

NUTS, various kinds, . . 286 

OLIVE 285 

ORANGES, LEMONS, .285 
PEACHES. 

Allen, 195 

Batchelder, 196 

Bellegarde, 194 

Bergen's Yellow, 195 



INDEX TO PEACHES AND PEARS. 



XXI 



Blood Cling, 198 

Brevoort, 194 

Briggs, 193 

Clarke, 194 

Coolidge, 191 

Coolidge' s Favorite, . . .191 
Crawford's Ear. Melocoton, 193 
Crawford's Early, . . . .193 
Crawford's Late Melocoton, 197 
Crawford's Superb, . . . .197 
Cutter — Cutter's Rareripe, 194 

Druid Hill, 197 

Early Chelmsford 190 

Early Maiden, 190 

Early Newington Freestone, 192 
Early Royal George, . .191 
Early Sweetwater, . . . .190 

Early Tillotson, 190 

Early Washington, . . . .191 

Early York, 190 

Favorite, 196 

George the Fourth, . . . .192 

Gross Mignonne, 192 

Haine's Early, 192 

Hale's Melocoton, 193 

Hall's Down-Easter, . . .196 

Hartshorn, • . . 195 

Hatch, 192 

Heath, 198 

Heath Clingstone, . . . .198 
Hill's Lemon Rareripe, . .194 
Jaques, Jaques's Rareripe, 193 

Kenrick's Heath, 197 

La Grange, 198 

Large Early York, . . . .192 

Large Early, 193 

Large White Clingstone, . 195 

Late Admirable, 196 

Late Red Rareripe, . . . .196 
Lemon Clingstone, . . . .197 

Lincoln, 194 

Malta, 192 

Mammoth, 190 

Merriam, 197 

Monstrous Cling, 198 

Monstrous Pavie, 198 

Moore's Favorite, 193 

Morris's Red Rareripe, . . 192 



Morris's White, 196 

Newman, 194 

New York Rareripe, . . .192 

Noblesse, 192 

Oldmixon Clingstone, . . .196 
Oldmixon Freestone, . . . 196 

Owen, 195 

Owen's Lemon Rareripe, . 195 
Poole's Large Yellow, . . 198 
Prince's Red Rareripe, . .196 
Red-Cheek Melocoton, . . 197 

Red Magdalen, 191 

Red Rareripe — Rose,. . .191 

Royal George, 191 

Royal Kensington, . . . .192 
Smith's Favorite, . . . .195 
Smock's Freestone, . . . .198 

Strawberry, 191 

Tarhell, 194 

Tippecanoe, 198 

Tufts's Early, 190 

Tufts's Rareripe, 195 

Vanguard, 192 

Walter's Early, 191 

White Imperial, 191 

While Rareripe, 196 

Yellow Alberge, 193 

Yellow Rareripe, 1 93 

PEARS. 

Abbot, 159 

Adams, 160 

Ananas, 159 

Andrews, 161 

Ambrette, 173 

Armory, 161 

Bartlett, 156 

Bell, 154 

Belle et Bonne, 160 

Belle of Brussels, .... 154 

Belle Lucrative, 158 

Beurre de Anjou, 167 

Beurre de Amalis, .... 156 
Beurre de Aremberg, . . .171 

Beurre Bosc, 161 

Beurre Diel, 169 

Beurre de Ranz, 173 

Beurre Van Marum, . . .163 



XX11 



INDEX TO PEARS. 



Bezi Blanc, 154 

Bezi de Montigny, . . . .163 

Bishop's Thumb^ 167 

Black Pear of Worcester, . 174 
Bleeker's Meadow, . . . .167 

Bloodgood, 153 

Bon Cretien Fondante, . .163 

Bougermester, 168 

Brandy wine, 157 

Brocas Bergamot, . . . .158 

Brown Beurre, 163 

Buffum, 164 

Butter Pear, 165 

Calhoun, 167 

Capiumont, 163 

Capsheaf, 159 

Catalac, 174 

Chaumontel, 172 

Chelmsford, 161 

Citron des Carmes, . . . .151 

Clion, 168 

Columbia, 171 

Compte de Lamy, . . . .163 

Cross, 171 

Cushing. 159 

Dearborn's Seedling, . . .155 

Dorr, 154 

Dix, 168 

Doyenne Boussouck, . . .167 

Doyenne Gris, 167 

Dunmore, • . 159 

Duchess de Angouleme, . .170 

Easter Bergamot, 174 

Easter Beurre, 173 

Edwards's Elizabeth, . . .160 

Echassery, 173 

Eyewood, 160 

Figue, 167 

Flemish Beauty, 160 

Fondante de Automne, . . 15S 

Forelle, 170 

Frederic de Wurtemberg, . 158 

Fulton, 164 

Gansel's Bergamot, . . . .158 

Gibson, 161 

Glout Morceau, 173 

Golden Beurre, of Bilboa, . 157 
Gray Doyenne, 167 



Hanners, 157 

Hancon's Incomparable, . .167 

Harrison Fall, 174 

Harvard, 159 

Heathcot, 162 

Henry Fourth, 159 

Hull, 160 

Iron, 174 

Jalousie, 163 

Jargonelle, 152 

July Pear, 152 

Julienne, 154 

King Edward, 163 

Knight's Monarch, . . . • 173 

Lawrence, 173 

L'Epergne, . 159 

Leech's Kingsessing, . . .159 

Lewis, 171 

Long Green, 159 

Louise Bon de Jersey, . . . 162 

Madeleine, 151 

Marie Louise, 164 

M'Laughlin, 170 

Monsieur le Clure, . . . .168 

Mouth Water, 159 

Moyamensing, 153 

Muscadine, 156 

Muskingum, 153 

Napoleon, 166 

New York Red Cheek, . .162 
Oliver's Russet, ... . 163 

Onondaga, 165 

Osband's Summer, . . . 152 

Osborn, 155 

Oswego Beurre, ... 169 

Owen, 174 

Paradise de Automne, . . .160 

Passe Colmar, 172 

Petre, 164 

Pound, 174 

Pratt, 157 

Prince's St. Germain, . . .170 
Oueen ofthe Low Countries, 167 

Read's Seedling, 169 

Rostiezer, 154 

Rousselet de Rheims, . . .160 

Seckel, 162 

Stevens's Genesee 157 



INDEX TO FEARS AND PLUMS. 



XX1U 



St. Germain, 170 

St. Ghislian, 157 

St. Michael, 165 

Striped Madeleine, . . . .151 

Sugar Top, 152 

Summer Doyenne, . . . .151 
Summer Frank Real, . . .154 
Summer St. Michael, . . . 151 
Summer Virgalieu, . . .152 
Surpass Virgalieu, . . . .162 

Swan's Orange 165 

Thompson, 167 

Trescott, 158 

Trout, 170 

Tyson, 154 

Urbaniste, 166 

Uvedale's St. Germain, . .174 
Van Mons Leon le Clerc, . 167 
Vicar of Winkfield, . . . .168 
Virgalieu, Virgoulouse, . 165 

Verte Longue, 157 

Wadleigh, 154 

Washiugton, 157 

Watertown, 163 

White Doyenne, 163 

Wilbur, 157 

Wilhelmine, 173 

Williams's Early, .... 160 
Williams 's Bonchretien, . 156 

Windsor, 154 

Winter Frank Real, . . .174 

Winter Nelis, 172 

Zoar Seedling, 152 

PLUMS. 

Apple, 210 

Apricot, 209 

Autumn Gage, 217 

Austrian Quetsche, .... 209 

Bingham, 217 

Bleecker's Gage, 214 

Bleecker's Scarlet, . . . .217 

Blue Imperatrice, 218 

Bolmar, 210 

Bradshaxo, 215 

Caledonian, 215 

Cherry, 206 

Cloth of Gold, 209 



Coe's Golden Drop, .... 219 

Coe's Late Red, 219 

Columbia, 216 

Cooper's Red, 214 

Corse's Admirable, . . . . 21S 
Corse's Field Marshal, . . 210 
Corse's Nota Bene, .... 217 

Cruger's Scarlet, 211 

Damson, 217 

Dana's Gage, 215 

Denniston's Superb, . . . .211 

Diapree Rouge, 216 

Diamond, 216 

Domine Dull, 217 

Drap d'Or, 209 

Duane's Purple, 210 

Dunne's Purple French,. .210 

Early Genesee, 206 

Early Orleans, 207 

Early Royal, 210 

Early Scarlet, 206 

Early Yellow, 206 

Frost Gage, 219 

Frost Plum, 219 

German Prune, 209 

German Prune, 217 

Goliath, • ... 213 

Green Gage, 211 

Henrietta Gage, 207 

Horse Plum, 213 

Hudson Gage, 208 

Hiding's Superb, 215 

Ick worth's Imperatrice, . .219 

Ida Green Gage, 212 

Imperial Gage, 213 

Imperial Lilac, 216 

Imperial Ottoman, .... 208 

Isabella, 214 

Italian Damask, 209 

Jaune Hative, 206 

Jefferson, 215 

Large Early Black, . . .215 
Large Early Damson, . .213 
Lawrence's Favorite, . . . 212 
Lombard, ....... .217 

Louis Philippe, 215 

Lovett's Late Long Blue, . 218 
Manning's Long Blue, . .219 



Xxiv INDEX TO PEARS, QUINCES, RASP., STRAWB. 



M'Laughlin, 

Mimms, 

Morocco, 

Nectarine, 

Netc Early Orleans, . . . 
Orange, 214 — Peach, . . . 

Pond's Seedling, 

Prince's Imperial Gage, . . 
Prince's Yellow Gage, . • 

Prune Peche, 

Purple Egg Plum, .... 

Purple Favorite, 

Purple Gage, 

Quetsche, 

Red Diaper, 

Red Gage, 

Red Magnum Bonum, 214, 

Peine Claude, 

Reine Claude Violette, . . 

Royal, 

Royale de Tours, 

Royal Hative, 

Roe's Autumn Gage, . . . 
Schenectady Catharine, . . 

Semiana, 

Sharp's Emperor, 

Smith's Orleans, 

St. Catharine, 

Sweet Damson, 

Siceet Prune, 

Violet Perdrigon, . . . . 

Washington, 

Washington Seedling, . . . 

While Gage 

White Magnum Bonum, . 
White Primordian, . . . . 
Wilmot's Early Orleans, . 
Yellow Egg Plum, . . . . 

Yellow Gage, 

Yelloto Perdrigon, , . . . 

Ornamental 

POMEGRANATE, . . . 
QUINCES, various kinds. 
RASPBERRIES. 

American Black. 

American Red, 

American White, 



209 
216 
209 
215 
207 
207 
209 
213 
203 
207 
216 
216 
212 
209 
216 
212 
216 
211 
212 
217 
207 
210 
217 
213 
217 
217 
214 
219 
213 
209 
214 
210 
211 
213 
210 
206 
207 
210 
208 
209 
219 
286 
257 



276 
277 

277 



Black Raspberry, 276 

Col. Wilder, 277 

Common Red, 277 

Cushing, 277 

Fastolff^ 277 

Franconia, 276 

New Red Anhcerp, .... 276 
Nottingham Scarlet, . . . 277 
Ohio Ever hearing— Ohio, . 276 

Orange, 277 

Red Antwerp, 276 

Thimbleberry, 276 

True Red Antwerp,. . • .276 

Victoria, 277 

Yellow Antwerp, W. Ant., 276 

SHEPHERDIA, 288 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Alpine, 26S 

Black Prince, B. Imperial, 267 

Boston Pine, 266 

British Queen, 268 

Burr's New Pine, 268 

Bush and Running, . . . 268 

Dundee, 269 

Duke of Kent, 266 

Early Virginia, 265 —Eton, 267 

Fay's Seedling, 268 

Hovev's Seedling, .... 266 
Hudson, 266 — Hudson, . . 267 
Hudson Bay, 267 — Iowa, . 268 
Jenney's Seedling, .... 267 
Keene's Seedling, .... 267 
Large Early, L. E. Scar., 265 

Late Scarlet, 267 

Methven Castle, M. Scarlet, 267 

Mulherrv, 268 

Myatt's Deptford Pine, . . 269 

Neck Pine, 267 

Profuse Scarlet, 269 

Prolific Hauthois, .... 268 
Richardson's Seedlings, . . 268 

Ross's Phoenix, 267 

Stoddard's Red Alpine, . . 263 
Swainstone's Seedling, . . 267 
Warren's Seedling, . . . 267 
Willey, 266. Wood, . . . 263 

WHORTLEBERRY, . .238 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



UTILITY OF FRUITS. 



In the whole routine of cultivation — and it is all delight- 
ful — there is no department more pleasing or useful than 
Fruit Growing ; and our advantages, in this country, for its 
production, are varied and extensive. With due attention, 
we can have a great variety of the most delicious fruits ; 
and the trees, with their beautiful bloom, luxuriant foliage, 
and rich and gorgeous crops, are among the most ornamen- 
tal scenery. 

Good fruit is a great luxury, in which we may freely 
indulge, not only with impunity, but with advantage as to 
health as well as pleasure. It forms a wholesome suste- 
nance, and lessens the excessive use of various articles of 
diet, the too free use of which tends to inflammations, fevers, 
dyspepsia, constipation, apoplexy, gout, jaundice, and a host 
of other ills. In numerous instances, violent diseases, and 
almost hopeless cases of chronic complaints, have yielded to 
the constant use of fruits. 

The vast amount of unhealthy meats, from the sudden 
change of filthy matters to slaughtered animals, and by far 
a too liberal consumption of those that are good ; also of 
fine flour, and fine hot bread, of butter, cheese, fat, oils, 
strong tea and coffee, (all injurious in excess.) the high state 
of cookery; the free use of condiments and seasoning, and 
various rich dishes, and compounds, commingled, and con- 
fused ; all call aloud for more fruit to lessen their use, or 
palliate their effects, and save thoughtless beings from un- 
timely graves, or from lingering out a wretched state of 
existence. Fruits have a cooling and gently laxative effect, 
regulating the stomach and bowels, correcting bilious affec- 
3 



26 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

tion, and attenuating and purifying the blood, which is the 
very life of the whole system. 

We have many excellent fruits. How delightful, refresh- 
ing, and salutary are strawberries and cream ; or delicious 
cherries, ready to burst with their rich juices ; the golden 
apricot, with its fine flavor ; the plum, with its honeyed juice ; 
the splendid peach, with its luscious sweetness ; the melting 
pear, with its rich, sugary, or vinous flavor ; the apple, in all 
its variety and excellence, and multifarious preparations, ex- 
tending from one end of the year to the other ; the rich, 
luscious grape ; and others equally delicious — the currant, 
raspberry, gooseberry, blackberry, whortleberry, mulberry, 
and cranberry, and the high-scented quince in its conserved 
state : all excellent, and conducing largely to health, pleas- 
are, sustenance, and happiness. They add" a charm to social 
life, affording a delightful treat to friends, and to children a 
constant, harmless feast. As a social entertainment, they 
serve as a grateful substitute for the once ruinous cup, thus 
having a powerful moral influence. Every fruit tree is a 
silent preacher in the cause of temperance, a formidable ally 
in morality, religion, and philanthropy ; for the lusciousness 
of fruits, and the beauty of their attendant scenery, furnish 
an Eden, where one may sit under his own vine and fruit 
trees, with none to molest, and no serpent to beguile ; but 
with an Eve, as God's last, best gift, and perhaps cherubs 
gamboling in his Elysian grounds, as so many multiplied 
existences in which he lives and revels amidst the charms 
of nature and munificence of heaven, in the happy results 
of his own skill and industry, and faith in Him who gives 
seed-time and harvest. 

Teach children the art and science of horticulture and 
pomology, and you will improve and exalt them ; you will 
train them up in the way they should go, and spread around 
home the strongest endearments of social life, to which the 
memory will cling with the fondest recollection, while " breath 
they draw ;" for though roaming the wide world, amidst the 
varied charms of nature and art, this faithful monitor reverts 
to the dearest scenes of childhood and youth, where once 
were 

" My father, my mother, 
My sister, my brother, 
And dear * * *, more charming than all." 



PROFITS. 27 



PROFITS. 



Every one who has a spot of land should raise fruits, that 
he may have them fresh from his trees ; for in no way will 
it yield more profit for one's own use ; and where there is a 
good market, they are profitable for that purpose also. Many 
object to the long delay of trees in bearing, but skill will 
remedy this evil. 

Set apple and pear trees, and a few cherries and quinces, for 
large standards, 2 rods apart each way ; and between the rows 
set rows of peaches, plums, cherries, quinces, and pears on 
quince, alternately or mixed ; set some of these also m the 
rows of apples and standard pears. These, and those in in- 
termediate rows, will generally have their day and disappear 
before the apples and pears interfere with them. In the 
rows, between the trees, set currants, raspberries, gooseber- 
ries, &c, which will liourish well even when they become 
partially shaded. Between the rows, set strawberries, and 
grapes on the borders. 

The very next year you will have a full crop of strawber- 
ries, a pretty good crop of currants, gooseberries, raspber- 
ries, &c. ; the next year, a full crop of small berries, and a 
moderate crop of grapes, peaches, plums, cherries, quinces, 
pears on the quince ; and in a few years, all will come into 
full bearing, and give an ample reward. 

Mr. Moses Jones, of Brookline, in this vicinity, a most 
skilful cultivator, set 112 apple trees 2 rods apart, and peach 
trees between, both ways. The eighth year he had 228 bar- 
rels of apples, and in a few years from setting the trees, $400 
worth of peaches in one year ; and the best part of the story 
is, that large crops of vegetables were raised on the same 
land, nearly paying for the manure and labor. The tenth 
year from setting, many of the apple trees produced 4 or 5 
barrels each, the land still yielding good crops of vegeta- 
bles, the peach trees having mostly gone by old age. Mr. 
J. grafted a tolerably large pear tree to the Bartlett, and the 
third year it produced $30 worth. See Strawberry, page 261. 

Mr. S. Dudley, a very successful cultivator in Roxbury, 
an adjoining city, sold the crop of currants from J of an 
acre for $108, the next year for 1 125, and he had good crops 
for several years. He picked 500 quart boxes from £ of an 



28 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

acre the next season after setting the bushes in the fall. He 
had $25 worth of cherries from one Mazzard tree. 

We saw, in Natick, Ms., on the banks of the " classic 
Charles," on the farm of M.Eames, Esq., an apple tree graft- 
ed to the Porter when 15 years old ; it soon bore, and the 
seventh year it produced 15 barrels, which sold at $30. The 
original Hurlbut apple tree produced 40 bushels in one 
year and 20 the next. The original Bars apple yielded 60 
bushels in one year. N. AVyeth, Esq., Cambridge, in this 
region, had from a Harvard pear tree 9 barrels of fruit, which 
sold for $45. 

A farmer would not plant an orchard, thinking he should 
not live to eat the fruit ; his son had the same views ; but 
the grandson planted for posterity, yet his predecessors shared 
in the fruit also, for the grandfather drank hogsheads of the 
cider. 

Hovey states that a Dix pear tree, in Cambridge, produced 

" worth of fruit at one crop. We saw in Orange, N. Jer- 
sey, 100 bushels of apples on a Harrison tree, which would 
make 10 barrels of cider, then selling at $ 10 a barrel in N. 
York. 

Downing says that the original Dubois Early Golden Apri- 
cot, produced $45 worth in 1844, $50 in 1845, $90 in 1846. 
A correspondent of the Horticulturist says that Mr. Hill 
Pennell, Darby, Pa., has a grape vine that has produced 75 
bushels yearly, which sell at $1 a bushel. James Laws, 
Philadelphia, has a Washington plum that yields 6 bushels 
a year, that would sell for $60. Judge Linn, Carlisle, Pa., has 
2 apricot trees that yielded 5 bushels each, worth $120. Mr. 
Hugh Hatch, of Camden, N. J., has 4 apple trees that pro- 
duced 140 bushels, 90 bushels of which sold at $1 each. In 
1844, a tree of the Lady Apple, at Fishkill Landing, N. Y., 
yielded 15 barrels that sold for $45. 

We give some extreme cases, and others which common 
skill may compass. The cultivator will do well with medial 
success. Yet it is well to have a standard of extraordinary 
attainment, or the perfection of excellence, as a goal for those 
who inscribe on their banner " Excelsior." 

SOIL — ITS IMPROVEMENT AND PREPARATION. 

Every species of fruit trees, and plants, prefers a peculiar 
soil, in which it flourishes best, requires less manure and 



IMPROVEMENT OF SOILS. 29 

culture, and produces better fruit than in soil less congenial. 
Yet so different are the various species, that almost every 
soil, from the peat bog to the sandy plain, is adapted to some 
kind ; and all the intermediate soils, between these wide ex- 
tremes, are adapted to several species. 

Besides the advantages from the different natures of va- 
rious kinds, almost every one, with good management, will 
succeed very well in nearly every soil. The cranberry of 
the peat bog flourishes also in the corn-field. The quince 
does well in a moist soil, and in a dry, gravelly loam ; and 
the apple, pear, plum, cherry, currant, &c, do well, with good 
treatment, on soils that vary materially both in moisture and 
texture. Yet much depends on having a suitable soil, and, 
if possible, it should be chosen. 

Again, fruit trees are further adapted to various situations 
by varieties of the same species preferring different soils, 
some growing best in a moist, strong loam, as the Roxbury 
Russet apple, Dix pear, and most kinds of plums ; others 
doing best on a sandy loam, as the Yellow Bellflower apple, 
Belle Lucrative pear, Imperial Gage plum, &c. When the 
tree is not adapted to the soil, the culturist should adapt the 
soil to the tree. Like the accommodating Justice, who would 
bring the law to the case, when his good friend, the lawyer, 
could not bring his case to the law. 

Improvement of Soils. If fruit trees are to be set on very 
wet land, it should be thoroughly drained by deep ditches, 
or by underdraining, in the same manner that it is prepared 
for good tillage. And if the soil abounds in mud, muck, or 
clay, gravel, sand or loam should be added to improve its 
texture, render it more dry and friable, and furnish suitable 
food for trees, as they will not do well in a purely vegetable 
mould or clay, inorganic materials being wanted for the com- 
position of wood and fruit, which mud and mould would not 
supply. 

Moist lands, on side hills and elevations, are naturally 
drained in some measure, so that a tolerable degree of moist- 
ure is not only harmless, but beneficial. We have trees 
flourishing finely on a side hill, even where the land is 
springy. The greatest danger from extra wetness is on flat 
land, where stagnant water remains around the roots of 
trees. 

When the land is descending, and but little too wet, it 
may be drained by ploughing it into broad beds, and leaving 
3* 



30 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



the dead furrows for drains, which should be kept well 
cleared out. On rather too moist land, set the trees near the 
surface, or on the surface, and cover the roots well with grav- 
elly or sandy loam. In all cases of too much wet, add gravel, 
sand, or loam, to improve the texture of the soil, and suita- 
ble manures, nearly all kinds of which are good, both chem- 
ically and mechanically. As wood ashes, plaster, and salt 
induce moisture, they should be used sparingly on wet land. 

Dry land may be greatly and permanently improved by 
adding peat, mud, muck, clay or marl, or fine loam. Al- 
most every kind of manure is useful, particularly wood 
ashes, plaster, common salt, and various other salts. Stable 
manure, on both wet and dry lands, tends to an equilibrium 
of moisture. Subsoiling, trench ploughing, deep spading, 
and deep ploughing, all invite moisture upward, in a dry 
time, and. allow roots to penetrate deeply for moisture. Fre- 
quent stirring and pulverization of soil, by the plough, cul- 
tivator, harrow, or hoe, have a fine effect in retaining near 
the surface the rising moisture for the use of plants. Mulch- 
ing is excellent. (Page 50.) 

Covering Land all over with straw, sea-weed, salt hay, 
and other litter, has a wonderful effect in guarding against 
drought, producing an even temperature, a regular, healthy 
growth, and good crops, and preventing mildew on grapes 
and gooseberries, the rising of insects from the ground, pre- 
venting fruit from falling, and saving that which falls. 

Preparation of Soils. Land should be ploughed, well ma- 
nured, [see Manure, page 52,] (if not already rich,) and well 
cultivated one season before sowing seeds or setting trees. 
It is best to plant in potatoes or some other root crop, as it 
will tend to thorough pulverization and mellowness. The 
land should be ploughed deep, and subsoiling would be a 
great improvement, or trench ploughing is still better, and 
saves much digging for the purpose of throwing out the sub- 
soil on setting the trees. 

"We have used greensward for setting nursery trees and 
raising seedlings. After ploughing and harrowing, we fur- 
rowed, dropped manure and ashes and mixed manure, soil 
and turfs, cut fine, all together, in the row, and then set the 
treei and sowed seeds. This was extra labor, but we had 
good success, and sold many handsome seedlings in the 
fall. 



PROPAGATION SEEDS, LAYERS, CUTTINGS. 31 



PROPAGATION. 

There are various modes of propagation ; some are adapt- 
ed to one species of trees or plants, and others to others. We 
shall here give the general modes, and, under each species, 
show what are applicable to that. 

Seeds. The most natural and easiest mode is by seeds, 
but there are only a few cases, comparatively, in which 
choice fruits, of the same quality, can be propagated by seed, 
yet some are raised in this way, and stocks are usually raised 
from seed, on which desirable kinds are grafted or budded; 
and by seed new and improved varieties are often obtained. 
(Page 65.) Under each species of fruit, we give the best 
way of raising from seed, as the modes are various. Some 
seeds are injured by drying, others may be kept over to 
another year, and some require fall planting, or particular 
preparation for spring. 

Layers. Some trees, shrubs, and vines are most easily 
propagated by layers. Make the earth fine and loose around 
the plant, prepare a trench a few inches deep, deepest in dry 
soil, and bend down the branch and confine it by a stick with 
a shoulder or hook, (a,) or by 
a straight stick run into the 
earth obliquely, (b,) or by first 
soil and then a stone to keep 
the layer down. Raising a 
tongue (c) £ or £ the thickness ^ 
of the layer, or cutting a notch 
across the layer, (d,) will fa- 
cilitate the production of roots. 
If it be dry, water occasional- Layering. 

ly, and better still if litter be applied. 

It is better to make layers in spring, then they will be well 
rooted by fall ; and better still if they be cut from the parent 
in Aug., if the roots have started. But layers may be made 
in June or July from the new growth ; in this case, the ten- 
der roots will be more liable to winter-kill, and should be well 
covered in litter or loam, or taken up and buried in light soil, 
as tender trees. (Page 49.) 

Cuttings are pieces of young shoots ; those of the last 
year's growth are preferable ; the wood should be well ripened, 
or firm, as that, near the end, of late, rapid growth, is too soft 




32 AMERICAN FRUJT BOOK. 

and tender to retain vitality and start vigorously. They may 
be short, containing only one bud, when extensive multipli- 
cation is desirable ; and in that case, they should be planted 
horizontally, (as in the figure,) and near the 
surface, and the ground should be moistened 
often, or a glass inverted over them ; and as 
growing weather comes on, the earth should 
be loosened over the bud, to admit air and heat, and promote 
its growth. Or cuttings may be several feet long, and plant- 
ed obliquely, when the object is to throw up a strong and 
powerful shoot. Generally, cuttings are about a foot long. 
They may be cut at the same time, and saved in the same 
way as scions. As grape vines bleed when cut in spring, it 
is best to take off the cuttings in fall, and bury them in light 
soil, or they may be kept as scions in the cellar. 

Cuttings should be planted in a deep, rich, fine, and rather 
moist soil ; or if the soil be dry, litter should be laid around 
them, and water applied occasionally ; and in severe drought, 
this may be necessary on moist soil. Extra care is econo- 
my. Grape and some other cuttings are generally planted 
obliquely, as shown in the figure, (see fl 

also page 240,) excepting single buds, 
as above. Currants, gooseberries, 
quince, and some other kinds, are plant- 
ed perpendicularly, and are usually 
about one half below the surface. 

When one has a few choice cuttings, 
or a kind difficult to start, vegetation Planted obliquely. 
is promoted by inverting a bell-glass or tumbler over the 
bud, as it prevents evaporation, and surrounds the bud with 
a moist atmosphere. 

Cuttings should be planted as early in spring as the land 
will answer to work. The fall is a favorable season, if done 
early. If the cuttings be ripe, the best time is the last of 
Sept. or former part of Oct., ibr the same reason as for ear- 
ly fall transplanting, (Page 50.) In grapes, &c, cover the 
bud an inch deep, and let it remain till warm weather in 
spring ; and if it is a region exposed to open winters and 
sudden changes from heat to cold and the reverse, it may be 
well to apply litter or other covering to protect the cuttings. 
A few inches of yellow loam would be good, and by its color 
it could be removed without injury to the buds. In early 
fall planting, fibrous roots often start that fall, which is a 




PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 33 

promise of success. At that season the air is cool, which 
saves the top from drying, and the earth is warm, which en- 
courages roots. In spring and early summer, the air is dry 
and the earth cool. 

Grafting. 

Grafting is transferring a scion, containing one or more 
buds, into a stock or limb, by which the buds grow and form 
a tree or top like that of the scion. 

The Advantages are numerous and important. 

1. A valuable kind may be propagated rapidly, a single 
tree sometimes furnishing scions for 1000 stocks, and so on 
for a succession of years. 

2. Trees of worthless fruit may be changed into the most 
valuable varieties, and fruit obtained in a few years. (Page 
28.) 

3. Some kinds of fruit that cannot be easily multiplied by 
layers or cuttings, nor the same kind by seed, can be in- 
creased by this process. 

4. Seedlings may be brought into early bearing, by graft- 
ing into bearing trees ; and some varieties, that are 12 or 15 
years in bearing naturally, can be made to bear in a few 
years by this process. 

5. Foreign and other tender kinds may be made more 
hardy or acclimated by grafting into hardy native stocks. 

6. A fruit may be raised on a soil not congenial to it, by 
grafting into a slock adapted to such soil. 

7. By several varieties in the same tree, a succession of 
fruit may be had in a small garden ; and by selecting various 
beautiful fruits, a tree may be rendered highly ornamental 
as well as useful. 

8. To render trees dwarf by grafting on dwarf stocks, as 
the pear on the quince, the cherry on the mahaleb stock, &c. 

9. To make a good head of an excellent slow-growing 
variety, which is hard to raise from the ground, by grafting 
into a vigorous standard large tree. 

Time for Grafting. We have seen scions growing on a 
tree set in every month in the year. The usual time is the 
spring. The best point of time is when the buds are swell- 
ing. Stone fruit should be grafted rather early, say before 
the leaves put out, for they start early, and the scions do not 
keep well. The bark of the cherry expands and peels, if 
cut in hot weather, when the tree is growing, and all stone 



34 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

fruit has soft wood that is difficult to split, so that the split- 
ting disturbs the bark when it peels. 

The usual time for grafting, in N. England, is from the 
latter part of March to the last of May. If scions are 
kept well, they take well in June, but they will not grow so 
large the first season In the Middle States and the West, 
the first of March, or earlier, is a good time to begin ; and 
in the South, Feb. is a good season. In warm climates, it 
is best to complete the work rather early, before hot, dry 
weather. 

Subjects for Grafting. All old trees, large and tolera- 
bly large trees, and large stocks, are generally changed by 
grafting, excepting stone fruit, in which tolerably large, 
thrifty limbs are budded, though these, excepting the peach, 
will do well if grafted early in the spring. Small trees, 
standard high, having very thrifty branches, may be grafted 
or budded in the branches. Stocks that are half an inch or 
more in diameter are generally grafted ; when small, bud- 
ding is usually practised. 

Yet stocks, suckers, and limbs are sometimes grafted when 
they are as small as the scion, generally by splice or saddle 
grafting. Prefer the former. Stocks from £ to £ of an inch 
in diameter are grafted or budded as most convenient and 
suitable from various circumstances. Small trees do better 
for being set one year before grafting, that they may send 
up strong shoots. But apple and pear stocks £ an inch or 
more in diameter, with good roots, may be grafted early in 
spring, and then set in good, rich soil, with excellent suc- 
cess. In this way, we have had scions grow 4 feet the first 
season. But when the stock has been transplanted, and had 
a good growth one year before grafting, the scion will grow 
much more. 

It is better to graft them the last of Feb. or first of March, 
and set them out in fine loam in the cellar, in boxes or oth- 
erwise, and then set them out in the nursery as early as the 
ground will admit, that they may get a good start before hot, 
dry weather. In such case, graft low in the stock, and set 
it so as to cover the stock with the earth on a level, leaving 
half the scion above the surface, and it will often throw out 
new roots. 

Cutting- and Saving Scions. Cut the well-ripened, thrifty 
shoots of the previous season's growth, from healthy trees. 
If that be too short or deficient, cut the wood of two years' 



PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 35 

growth. The scion keeps better by cutting off a little of the 
previous growth, but this does more injury to the tree, as to 
bearing fruit. The tree is less injured by leaving a little of 
the new growth. Do not expose the scions to heat, drying, 
or freezing. If they become frozen, let them thaw closely 
covered, and in a dark cellar, if convenient, but not in a warm 
room. 

Scions may be cut at any time, from Oct. and Nov. to the 
time of setting, but it is better to cut before the buds begin 
to swell. A very favorable time to cut is a few weeks before 
setting, and before the swelling of buds ; then the scion will 
readily absorb moisture from the stock, which promotes a 
union. We have cut scions in Oct. and Nov., and kept them 
perfectly good for one year. We generally commence col- 
lecting in Nov., and attend to it, as most convenient, till the 
swelling of the buds. 

When we cut scions in the fall, or early winter, we find 
the best and the least troublesome mode of saving is, to bury 
them 4 to 8 inches deep in a light soil, that the water may 
not stand on them, and in sand or yellow loam, not in a wet, 
black soil, and in the shade, if it be rather early in the fall. 
They should be mixed in layers with the soil. In this way 
they come out finely in the spring. 

When we cut scions in the winter or spring, and some- 
times when we cut in fall, we pack them closely in a tight 
box or chest, first putting at the bottom some damp moss, 
sawdust, or a moist mat or cloth, covering them with a damp 
cloth or mat. The more scions there are together, the better 
they keep. Mould will not injure them. As the weather 
becomes warm, moisten the mats or moss, and the inside of 
the box a little occasionally. Keep it tightly covered, and in 
a damp, cool place in the cellar. Too much moisture is in- 
jurious, as it induces premature starting of buds, or kills the 
scions by saturation. Some scions were set with the but- 
ends in shallow water for 3 weeks, and they looked fine 
when set, but never grew. Keep the scion as near as possi- 
ble in the same condition as when cut. Many kill them by 
keeping them too wet. We find sawdust, a little moist, one 
of the best means of saving scions, as they are closely im- 
bedded in it. The Editor of the Al. Cultivator says that, in 
this way, he has saved scions, cut for budding in summer, 
in good condition for grafting the next spring, and those cut 
in winter, for budding the next summer. 



36 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

There are various modes of grafting, but a few of the best 
are sufficient for all purposes. 

Cleft Grafting is the most common. It is practised on 
large stocks and those rather small. In large stocks, an inch 
or more in diameter, two scions are set ; this aids in healing 
over the stock, and keeping it sound and healthy ; and when 
the scions interfere the second or third year, one is usually 
cut out. Sometimes both remain. 

Saw off the stock with a fine saw, and pare smoothly with 
a sharp knife ; then split the stock with the grafting-knife, 
and open it with the wedge on the same. Or a common knife 
and a wooden wedge may be used. Sharpen the scion on 
both sides, with a straight scarf like a wedge ; let the scarf be 
about 1£ inches long, more or less, according to the size of 
the scion and the splitting of the stock, making the scarf 
of the scion as long as it can be conveniently 
fitted to the stock. Large scions should have 
shoulders at the top of the scarf, else the stock 
would be split too wide. It is best for the stock 
to cover, or almost cover, the scarfs on the scion. 
The outer part of the scion should be slightly 
thicker, to make a close fit there. Leave two 
buds on the scion, setting the lower bud just 
below the top of the stock. Adjust the scion so 
that the joint between the bark and wood, in the 
stock and scion, will exactly correspond ; this is 
important, as that is the place of union between Cleft 
them. This done, withdraw the wedge, and Gra f tin %- 
apply the cement or clay. In cutting scions, reject the but, 
as the buds start reluctantly or not at all, and reject the 
top also, as it is too soft, or may be winter-killed. 

Scarfing the Stock. When only one scion is set in a 
stock of moderate or small size, if the stock be scarfed oft" 
on the side opposite the scion, (as at c, in the figure,) it will 
heal over the sooner. We have grafted as follows with 
excellent success. With a drawing stroke of the knife, cut 
off stocks or small limbs, say from \ to % an inch in diam- 
eter, making the length of the scarf about 4 times the diam- 
eter of the stock ; cut off the point or top of the stock down 
to about the thickness of the scion ; (as at b /) then split the 
stock, shape the scion, and with a wide knife at the end, or 
blunt point, pry open the stock on the scarfed side, and ad- 
just the scion, which should be thicker, on the outside. We 




PROPAGATION GRAFTING. 



37 




have grafted in this way ; and in the fall, stocks | 
of an inch in diameter have been completely healed 
over, and so neatly, in some cases, that we could 
not determine by their appearance whether they had 
been grafted. We prefer this mode ; it is neat, 
expeditious, and successful. We have put good 
new tops on small standard trees, in one season, 
by grafting the limbs in this way, so that the 
change was hardly perceptible. 

Splice or Whip Grafting. This mode is adapt- 
ed to small stocks, and it succeeds best when the 
scion and stock are precisely of the same diameter. 
When one is larger, they should be matched pre- 
cisely on one side. The stock and scion are scarfed 
off, about 1£ inches in length, and by cutting down- 'fhe'stock 
ward in the stock and upward in the scion, a Scarfed. 
tongue is raised on each, (a, a,) which is fitted into 
the cut of the other. This is a very perfect and 
sure method, and stone fruit will sometimes 
lake better in this way than in any other. 
Bind it very neatly with matting, and then ap- 
ply composition ; or better still, wind round 
composition cloth, without matting. The cloth 
will yield, in warm weather, as the tree grows, 
and is better than matting, as that will girdle 
the tree, if not loosened. 

Side Grafting. Make a T in the bark, as in 
budding ; then cut out a small piece of bark 
crosswise just above the cut, that it may allow 
the scion to fit closely to the wood below. Scarf 
off the scion, as in splice grafting, commencing 
the scarf at a slight crook, if such there be in 
the scion, that it may stand off. Sharpen the 
point of the scion on the side opposite the scarf, 
cutting a little each side of the round part, that it may slide 
down well, then raise the bark as in budding, and press 
down the scion ; if the upper part hugs closely to the stock 
above the cross-cut, press it to the stock where it is set in the 
bark, and bend the upper part off. Bind it closely to the 
stock, and apply composition. When the bark does not peal, 
the stock may be scarfed off a little, and the scion, formed 
as usual, fastened on. In this way, side limbs may be 
4 




Splice 
Grafting. 



38 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




Side Grafting. 
half 



formed when there is a deficiency, and graft- 
ing done without cutting off the tree or 
stock. 

Crown Grafting is the same as side graft- 
ing, only instead of a cross-cut in the bark, 
the stock is cut off. It is adapted to stocks 
that are too large for cleft grafting. Or, 
after cleft grafting large stocks, scions are 
set in this way between the other scions, to 
keep the stock alive and promote healing, 
and they may be cut off for scions, and the 
others will cover the stock. 

Saddle Grafting is but little practised. 
The stock is sharpened in wedge-form ; the 
scion is split up in the centre, and each 
thinned away on the inside to a flat point, and 
then set on the stock, with a good fit, at least, on 
one edge. It is most practised on stone fruit, 
and when the scion is immature. 

Sometimes large stocks are grafted after the 
usual season, by splitting up the scion 2 or 3 
inches, with one side the stronger. The stock is 
scarfed off on one side, and the stronger side of 
the scion is fitted into the bark opposite the scarf, 
and the thin part is brought down over the scarf, 
and the lower end inserted under the bark below 
the scarf. The thin part of the scion passing 
over the scarf promotes healing. 

Root Grafting. In the Middle States and the 
West, this mode succeeds better than in the 
North, where the seasons are shorter. Roots are 
cut into pieces of various sizes, from 3 to 5 inch- 
es. If large, cleft grafting is best ; if small, splice 
grafting is preferable. Some apply composition, others omit 
it, as the root is covered in earth. The surest way is to 
apply it, but with omission it is generally successful. The 
better way is to have the roots accessible in winter, and graft 
the latter part of winter or early in spring, and set out the 
stocks in earth in the cellar, in boxes or not, until the ground 
is dry enough for setting out. 

Grafting Large Trees should generally be done grad- 
ually, occupying 2 or 3 years, according to the size of the 
tree and manner of grafting. Graft the top first, as scions 




Saddle 
Grafting. 



PRO PAGATION GRAFTING. 39 

at bottom will not grow well while overspread by large 
branches. Leave twigs and shoots on the limbs, to sustain 
the limb till the scions grow, and then remove them grad- 
ually, but perhaps not till the second year. Many an orchard 
of large trees has been ruined by cutting off all the top 
at once, in grafting, exposing the trunk and branches to the 
hot sun, and giving a sudden check to the growth and life 
of the tree. But if the limbs are all cut off and grafted at 
once, towards their extremities, say where only an inch in 
diameter, and numerous twigs and little limbs are left, then 
the tree does not feel a shock, as the twigs and numerous 
scions soon form a good supply of foliage ; and as the latter 
grow, the former are removed. This was the case with the 
Porter tree named on page 28. Or graft limbs enough for a 
new top, where not very large, and remove the others in a 
year or two, as the scions supply their place. 

Never graft an unthrifty tree ; it is lost labor. First cul- 
tivate, prune, and wash, and put it in a vigorous condition. 

Grafting Composition, and its Application. 1 part good 
beef tallow, 2 parts beeswax, 4 parts white, transparent 
rosin ; melt all together, turn into cold water, and work and 
pull it thoroughly, as shoemakers' wax. This composition 
is not so soft as to melt in warm weather, nor so hard as to 
crack in cold weather ; but it gives as the tree grows. It is 
of great importance to have it of a right temperature, and 
well applied, else it will peel off in cold weather. While 
warm, it should be pressed closely to all the wounded part 
of stock and scion. 

When used in cool weather, it should be kept in warm 
water ; when it is very warm, keep the composition in cool 
water. In working and applying it, the hands should be 
slightly greased, to prevent its sticking. Apply a thin layer 
of composition, covering the scion on the side and cleft in 
the stock, and a cap over the top of the stock, pressing it 
closely and tightly around the scion, to exclude the air and 
water, pressing it also closely on the top of the stock and 
into the cleft, and around the scion at its junction with the 
stock. 

Many experiments have been made to discover a compo- 
sition without tallow, grease, or oil, as these are unfavorable, 
but none is generally used. The safest way is to have vig- 
orous stocks or trees, and then they will soon heal, and be 
but little affected by the operation. 



40 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Composition Cloth is prepared by dipping strips of half- 
worn, thin cloth, into melted composition, and drawing it 
between two sticks to scrape off the superfluous matter. 
They are then torn or cut into narrower strips, of suitable 
width, for various purposes. This cloth is well adapted to 
splice grafting, and no other band or composition is necessa- 
ry. When the stock is small, it is used as a band to press 
the stock closely upon the scion. Some use strips of com- 
position cloth for all kinds of grafting. When partially 
worn, it is weak, and yields as the stock grows, so that it 
will not bind enough to injure it. 

Clay for Grafting is but very little used, being much 
more troublesome, and no surer than composition ; it requires 
far more time in its application. Take pure clay, and mix 
it with an equal quantity of fine, fresh horse manure, and 
work in fine hair. If the clay be strong, add a little sand. 
Beat and work the materials thoroughly together, and apply 
a ball of the mixture to the stock, completely covering it. 
If no hair be used, the mixture must be supported by wind- 
ing around it cloth, tow, &c. Some use less horse manure, 
and always use sand to reduce the strength of the clay. 
The proportions must be varied with the nature of the clay. 
Some is pure and very tenacious, other is weak, being natu- 
rally mixed with sand. It is better for being prepared a 
short time before used, and worked occasionally. 

After Management. When all the top of the stock is 
cut off, it is better not to cut off all suckers immediately, and 
thwart nature, who is trying to renew the lost top ; and if a 
large stock be set out the spring it is grafted, it may suffer 
for want of sufficient top, if all sprouts be cut off imme- 
diately on starting. Yet suckers must not be allowed to 
choke the scions, nor draw off too much of the nutriment. 
In most cases, after the scions have got a good start, it 
is better to spun -in, that is, cut off occasionally a por- 
tion of the suckers on the stock, and allow the scions the 
principal support. In large, old trees that are grafted, it 
may be well to cut off most of the suckers, and all that in- 
terfere with the scions, but leave small twigs of the old wood 
on large limbs till the next or second season. This will 
keep up the vigor and health of the tree, and save from 
injury by too rapid a change, or sudden deprivation of the 
top ; it also saves the trunk and large branches from the hot 
sun. 



PROPAGATION BUDDING. 41 



Budding. 



Budding, or Inoculation, is the same as grafting in its 
effects, as in both cases the young shoot starts from a bud. 
It is performed at a different season, and usually on small 
stocks. It has the advantage of grafting in the more rapid 
multiplication of a variety, in being more expeditious, in 
allowing, frequently, of a repetition the same season, in case 
of failure, and of the operation without injury to the stock, 
and it is surer than grafting on stone fruit. It is the most 
common mode of propagation in nurseries, but it is not 
much practised on large trees, nor even on small standards, 
(excepting stone fruit, peaches in particular,) as grafting is 
preferable. 

Subjects for Budding. Stocks or limbs from £, £, or § 
of an inch in diameter are suitable for budding, and even 
those of an inch will answer, but they are more proper for 
grafting. It is of great importance that the stock be well 
established and in vigorous condition, that it may send up 
a strong, straight shoot, forming a good trunk for a stand- 
ard, else it will be stinted and scraggy, and difficult to form 
into a good tree. 

Requisites to Success. The stock must be growing well 
at the time, and it must continue to thrive for 10 or 15 days 
after the operation, that the bud may unite with the stock. 
The season must be sufficiently advanced for the cambriun 
or sliver (the mucilage between the bark and wood) to be 
formed. The scions for budding must be well grown and 
ripening, or becoming firm, as green or succulent scions lack 
substance and the buds fail. The operation must be per- 
formed in a skilful manner. The stock and scion must be 
allied to each other ; yet scions will flourish in stocks of a 
different species, as pears on quinces, and even in different 
genera, as the peach in the plum, and the pear in the Moun- 
tain Ash, thorn, and Shad Bush or June Berry. 

Time for Budding. Much depends on various circum- 
stances, such as age and thrift of the stock, the weather, the 
season, Ace. Judgment must be constantly exercised, (and 
then we may fail,) for we can no better set an exact time 
for budding than for cutting grain in future years. In this 
climate, if the stocks are young and of common vigor, and 
the season and the weather as to moisture about as usual, 
the time for budding is generally about as follows. Plum, 
4* 



42 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

from Aug. 1 to 10. Cherries, from Aug. 5 to 15. Pears, 
from Aug. 10 to 20. Apples, from Aug. 15 to 25. Peaches, 
from Sept. 5 to 15 or 18. Apricots on plums, same as plums. 
Quince, same as apples. But if the season has been for- 
ward and wet, and trees have grown fast and early, and 
then begin to stop from drought, the budding must be done 
earlier. On the contrary, if the season is backward, and the 
growth of trees small from unfavorable weather, and then 
it becomes warm and wet, and the trees grow fast, the bud- 
ding must be done later. So the time may vary thus : plums, 
from July 25 to Aug. 25 ; cherries, from Aug. 1 to 30, and 
sometimes, very young, thrifty stocks, the first week in Sept. ; 
pears, from Aug. 5 to Sept. 5 ; apples, from Aug. 5 or 10 to 
Sept. 5 or 10 ; peaches, from Sept. 1 to 20. Sometimes they 
gum and spoil when set the first week in Sept., in very young 
and thrifty stocks ; again, if delayed to the third week, cold 
weather may check vegetation, and prevent the buds from 
taking. When the weather is moist, and stocks are young 
and vigorous, the safest time is from the 10th to the 15th 
of Sept. Sometimes cherries will do well budded the last 
of July. Again, the stocks will grow one half after that 
time, and the gum will ooze out and destroy the buds. If 
the stock be very young and thrifty, and the weather wet 
and warm, they will succeed when budded the last of Aug. 
or first of Sept. Persons of the greatest experience are lia- 
ble to err in being too early or too late, owing to variable 
seasons. Sometimes peach buds will start, if set the first 
week in Sept. ; but will succeed well, set as late as the 20th, 
if the weather be wet, and warm 8 or 10 days after that 
time. Again, when set as late as the 20th of Sept., they 
have failed, as the weather soon became dry and cold. Much 
depends on the age and thrift of the stock, otherwise than 
from the iniluence of peculiar weather or seasons. Plums 
or cherries of the third season, peaches that are two, and 
apples and pears that are older and larger than usual, need 
to be budded 2 or 3 weeks earlier than young, thrifty stocks. 
If buds are set too early, they may start the first season, 
and then the winter will kill them. Stone fruit, set too early, 
is not only liable to start, but, in cherry trees, to gum around 
the bud, and sometimes the rapid growth throws out the bud. 
When buds are set too late, the bark does not peel well, and 
there will not be sufficient growing weather to cause a union 
of the bud and stock. 



PROPAGATION 



BUDDING. 



43 



Spring Budding has been practised with various success. 
In some cases, almost every bud has succeeded ; in others, 
all have failed. It has been attended to but little, is imper- 
fectly understood, and it is undoubtedly better adapted to the 
West and South than to the North. The scions should be 
cut before the buds swell, and set as early in spring as the 
bark will peel. Cut off the stock an inch or two above the 
bud, and remove all twigs and leaves from the stock at the 
time of budding. 

Preparation and Saving of Scions. Cut scions of the 
present year's growth, that have been thrifty and strong, and 
are nearly done growing, becoming firm and ripe. For early 
use, scions on old trees of moderate growth are usually best, 
being more firm than those of rapid growth. In 
case of a scarcity, we use the side shoots from 
scions set in the spring, or even the main scion, 
when we desire to multiply a variety as fast as 
possible ; but they are generally too soft for early 
budding. 

As soon as the scion is cut, trim off the leaves, 
leaving about £ of an inch of the foot-stalk, else 
the leaves, which transpire moisture rapidly, will 
absorb it from the buds and quickly spoil them. 
In hot, dry weather, they may be spoiled in this 
way in 2 hours. 

If the scions are to be used soon, wrap them in 
a damp mat or cloth, or, for convenience, put 
them in fine grass or leaves, and wrap in paper. 
To send a distance, pack in damp moss, or in 
damp sawdust, in a box. To keep awhile, wrap 
up or pack as above, and lay in a cool place in 
the cellar, or bury a foot deep in the ground, in a 
cool, shady place. They will keep longest in the 
moss or sawdust. They may be kept several 
days in grass or leaves, and a week or more in 
moss or sawdust. To keep a long time, put in a 
damp cloth or mat, and lay in an ice-house or chest, or they 
may be kept long in sawdust. (Page 35.) 

Mode of Budding. The most common and the best is T 
budding. With a sharp budding knife, make a perpendicu- 
lar slit, just through the bark, about an inch long, then a 
cross-cut, in the form of a letter T. It is well to make the 
cross-cut in a circular form, as in the figures a, d, that the 



Stick of 
Buds. 



44 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



band may cross the cut. With the ivory at the end of the 
knife-handle, raise the bark a little at each corner, below the 
cross-cut. If one has not a budding-knife, this may be done 
with a piece of sharpened hard wood or with the knife-blade. 
Lift up the bark, not force the instrument between the bark 
and wood, and disturb the cambrium or new layer of soft 
matter. 

Hold the but of the scion from you, and insert the knife 
about £ an inch below the bud that is next the but-end, and 
with a gentle curve cut about to the depth of \ the diameter 
of the scion — more in small, soft, or rather green scions, and 
less in large scions of firm or ripened wood — and bring out 
the knife about £ an inch above the bud. Then put the bud 
under the bark, and slide it down the vertical slit till the bud 
is a little below the cross-cut ; then, if any of the bark re- 
main above the cross-cut, cut it off there, making a neat fit. 
Some make the cross-cut below the perpendicular slit, and 
run the bud upward, but this is less convenient, and no 
better. 




a The stock prepared for the bud. * The bud with the wood taken out. 
c The bud with the wood in. d The stock with the bud inserted, 
e The stock with the bud tied in. 

Wind the matting closely around the stock, so as to cover 
all the vertical and transverse cut, barely leaving the bud 
uncovered ; tie with one bow-knot on the same side as the 
bud. Bud on any side excepting the south, where the sun 
may injure the bud in warm clays in winter. 



PROPAGATION BUDDING. 45 

On Removing the Wood. The English mode is to apply 
the thumb-nail to the wood at the top, and remove it from 
the bark, examining carefully to see that it comes off smooth- 
ly under the bud, but if the wood comes out of the bud, 
leaving a minute hole there, of less size than a common pin 
head, the bud is spoiled, and must be rejected, and another 
tried. To guard against this evil, after starting the wood, 
and cleaving it to the bud, slip in the point of a thin, sharp 
knife, and cut between the wood and bark, directly under 
the bud, which saves it. 

Of late, a new mode prevails, called the American, which 
is, to slip in the bud without removing the wood. Some 
who have lately learned the art of budding leave in the 
wood invariably, and say that they find from experiments 
this mode as successful as the other, and saves trouble. But 
the most skilful, who learned the English mode, take out the 
wood when it is rather firm, but when it is soft and succu- 
lent, they leave it in. A beginner will do about as well at 
first to allow the wood to remain, as he will be liable to in- 
jure the bud or bark in removing it. But in this case, mind, 
when the wood and bark are becoming firm, and cut shal- 
low, so as to take but a very thin piece of wood. Either 
mode, well done, at the proper time, will generally succeed. 
There is less trouble in retaining the wood, and this mode 
is prevailing, though comparatively new. 

Bands. Mats, such as are used around furniture, new and 
strong, are cut into suitable lengths and used for bands. The 
soft, pliable, inner bark or rind of any trees, like bass or 
linden and elm, is good. Suitable materials can be had at 
agricultural stores. Some use cotton wicking. Woolen 
yarn will answer. Some budders use strips of cloth listing 
from the tailor's. This stretches as the stock grows, and 
needs no loosening. Sheet India-rubber and gutta percha 
are used by the curious. Matting and such material should 
be wet before used, to make it soft and pliable. 

After Management. In 10 or 20 days after budding, 
according to the vigor of the stock, the bud will have united 
with the stock, and if the band binds closely, so as to cut 
into the bark, it must be loosened and re-tied as before. If 
the bud has dried and shriveled, the stock may be re-budded, 
if the bark peels. In about 3 weeks after budding, if the 
bud is well united to the stock, the band may be removed. 
Bat if it does not bind, it may lemain. If it remains on 



46 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




during winter, the ice is more likely to gather 
around the band, and injure the bud. As the bark 
of the cherry curls, the band needs to remain on 
longer than on other stocks. • 

In the spring, from the bursting of buds to the 
leaves becoming half size, cat off the stock in 
which the bud is good, to within 2 or 3 inches of 
the bud, and when the bud has started, tie it to 
the stump, if it inclines off. Keep down the 
sprouts ; and in July, cut off the stump even 
with the bud, as at the line a, and keep down 
sprouts and suckers. Growing 

— bud. 

Inarching is similar to grafting ; it is the union of two 
trees or branches, both retaining their hold in the ground till 
they are united or longer. It is practised in various ways. 
Trees of equal or unequal size may be 
united lengthwise or crosswise, by 
shaving off a little of the wood on 
each, and fitting them nicely together, 
allowing them to join in bark and 
wood, as in grafting. Bind them 
closely together, and apply composi- 
tion. 

Some trees, that are difficult to propa- 
gate by grafting or budding, may be 
transferred into thrifty stocks or larger 
trees, in this way, and after they are 
well united, the top of the larger tree 
may be cut off, and. the whole growth 
thrown into the smaller, which may, 
after a while, be cut loose from the 
ground and trimmed off, or it may remain, as in the figure 
on the left. 

Sometimes inarching is practised in the same way as side 
grafting reversed. The object being to invigorate an old or 
slow-growing tree by setting vigorous young trees around it, 
and inarching with it, as in the figure on the right. The end 
of the tree, scarfed on the side next the larger tree, is run up 
under the bark, and a bandage and composition applied. 
By inarching, a tree may be sustained beyond its usual 
period, as the pear on the quince, by inarching with it young 
pear trees. 




Inarching. 



TRANSPLANTING. 47 

Inarching is often practised for curiosity or ornament. A 
small tree may be inarched with its neighbors on each side, 
and then cut loose from the ground, and nourish hanging in 
the air. We have seen some fine specimens of inarching by 
nature. In one case it was a puzzle whether a limb, in an 
inverted form, grew down and took root in the ground, or a 
tree had grown up and united with another. 

Re-rootjng. In some cases scions are set on stocks of 
slower growth, or a different character, as the pear or the 
quince, thorn on mountain ash, plums on the slow-growing 
Canada stock, &c, and it is desirable to produce re-rooting, 
that is, roots from the scion, in order to make a larger or 
more durable tree. 

Graft the stock a few inches below the surface, and cover 
it with fine earth, half way up the scion, which having 
started well, hill up a little around it. and if it does not re- 
root the second year, remove the earth in July when the sap 
is tending downward, and with a gouge cut the wood 
upward, half an inch or an inch in several places in the lower 
part of the scion, leaving most of the bark entire ; then fill 
up around the roots with fine rich loam, and lay around 
litter, and water moderately, if it be dry weather. The 
descending sap will extend from these tongues and form 
roots. 

TRANSPLANTING. 

A great deal depends on this operation — far more than 
most persons suppose. A farmer dismissed a hand because 
he set only 9 trees in a day, during his absence ; the next 
day he set the balance of a 100 himself. When they bore 
fruit, the 9 set by the hand proved to be more valuable than 
the 91 set by himself. 

Better expend a dollar in setting a good tree well, than do 
it poorly ; but this is not necessary, for in common cases 
trees can be well set at the expense of 10 or 12 cents each, 
and frequently for less. 

Preparing a place for Trees. Having prepared the 
soil, as already directed, (page 30,) dig a deep broad hole. 
It should be 1 or 2 feet wider than the roots extend, and bet- 
ter if much wider, and 18 or 20 inches deep, unless the sub- 
soil is a compost clay or marl, that will hold water in the 
hole, and then it is better to plant the tree near the surface. 



48 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Fill the hole nearly up with decayed sods mixed with rich 
mellow earth, and a little of the subsoil that was dug out, 
and spread the rest of the subsoil upon the surface. Expos- 
ure will improve it. Tread the earth down a little, that it 
may not settle after the tree is set. 

Taking up Trees. Some tear up trees as they would 
worthless shrubs, splitting and breaking the roots, and in 
many nurseries the roots are cut off with the spade. Instead 
cf this harsh treatment, the earth should be loosened around 
trees, and all the roots should be gently taken up entire, if 
possible. If any roots are broken or split, they should be 
cut off smoothly lest they canker. Cut slanting on the under 
side, then the root will start on the upper side, and not tend 
downward. 

Puddling, which is dipping the roots in mud, is a neces- 
sary preparation, when the trees are to be sent far, or kept 
long out of the ground ; but the mud should be washed off 
before setting. 

Reducing the Top. In all cases of transplanting, except- 
ing early in the fall, the tree is placed under disadvantages, 
though removed with the greatest care, and it is best to re- 
duce the top a little. But when the roots are reduced, in 
transplanting, the tops should be reduced even more in pro- 
portion. Trees are sometimes transplanted under such dis- 
advantages, that it is necessary to cut off all the top to 
induce them to start. 50 peach trees brought from N. Jer- 
sey, in a bad condition, nearly all died, excepting six, that 
were cut off near the ground, and they succeeded well. 
When the top of a tree has a good form, the branches may 
be shortened in by cutting off one third or one half of the 
last season's growth ; this will reduce the quantity of foliage, 
which otherwise might transpire moisture too fast for the 
absorption of the mutilated roots ; and as new roots grow, 
a complete head will soon be formed to correspond, and the 
general contour of the top will not be disturbed. 

Packing should be done with great care, that every part 
may be safe, and damp moss or litter should be well packed 
around the roots, that they may not dry till they arrive at 
their place. When sent a great distance, moss should be 
used, as it long retains moisture. Trees may be packed so 
that they may be safely carried thousands of miles. In 
packing trees to be transported on the ocean, the moss 
should be almost dry, owing to excess of moisture from 



TRANSPLANTING. 49 

the water, which induces mouldiness with wet moss; 
and in such case the trees should be nearly dried after pud- 
dling. 

The Roots should not Freeze while out of the ground, as 
it is very injurious. When closely packed, the effect is less 
than when exposed to air or sun. After being frozen, it is 
best to thaw them, closely covered, and better still in a dark 
cellar, or put them into cold water, or bury them in the 
ground immediately. 

Laying in by the Heels, is placing trees slanting in a 
trench, and covering the roots and lower parts of the stem 
in earth, to save them through winter, or at any time until 
convenient to set them. They should be put in light soil 
where water will not stand. Small seedlings, and layers, and 
tender trees generally, may be kept during the winter in this 
way, by covering them all over. Trees may be taken up 
early in spring and laid in, to check their growth, till a proper 
time for setting. If not set till late, it may be well to raise 
them from the trench and replace them, to prevent their 
growing. It is also better to have their tops shaded, when 
the weather becomes warm. In this way we have kept trees 
in fine condition till the last of May, which was evident from 
the large growth that season. 

Setting Trees. The land and holes being prepared, as 
named, and the broken roots cut off, set the tree and place the 
roots in their natural position, and so that they will not run 
downward, and separate those that lie together; carefully 
guard against setting too deep, especially on cold, moist 
land. Let the upper roots lie a few inches below the surface 
when the earth is leveled. The roots being adjusted, place 
fine loam on them, filling up closely under the heel of the 
tree, and all around the roots so as to leave no cavity, tread- 
ing it down gently, that it may come in close contact with 
the roots. Do not shake the tree, as this will displace the 
small fibres. The hands should be used, not the foot, or a 
harsh implement, in adjusting the roots and applying the 
soil. 

"When the hole is filled up level, if it be in spring, make a 
cavity, to catch the rain. If it be in the fall, make a broad 
mound around the tree, 8 or 10 inches high, to keep the roots 
warm, throw off the water, and support the tree. Place a few 
stones close by the tree, bedded firmly in the mound, then lay 
sods between the tree and the stones, and press them down 
5 



50 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



closely. Thus set, no stakes are necessary, as the trees will 
stand a hurricane. It takes but a few minutes to make the 
mound and fasten the tree. In the spring remove the 
mound and make a cavity, as in spring setting. 

Mulching is the application around trees, of straw, old 
hay, seaweed, salt hay, old tan, saw-dust, fine shavings, or 
other litter, which is excellent, as it keeps the land moist and 
light, and when decayed makes manure. Even stones or 
pieces of wood and bark are good. 

Watering, in time of drought may be necessary to save 
trees the first year. Mulching may save this trouble, or ren- 
der but little watering necessary. One pail of water, with 
mulching to retain it, will do more good than 6 applied to 
the baked earth, where it will soon evaporate. 

Time for Transplanting. We set trees from the latter 
part of Sept. till into May, (if taken up early in spring, and 
laid in by the heels,) as most convenient, and with success. 
Fall setting requires more care, especially when late. We 
prefer early in fall, (last of Sept. and 1st of Oct.,) or early 
operations in spring, so far as relates to taking up the trees. 
When set early in the fall, the earth settles around the roots, 
and they grow the next season as though they had not been 
moved. 

Yet many things must be regarded. Peach, apricot, and 
other tender trees, generally do better set in spring. As to 
carrying trees north or south, see page 62. Better not set in 
wet lands in the fall, unless it is done very early, and the 
trees are set near the surface, and a good mound of earth 
placed around them. In open winters, and on the sea coast, 
where are many changes of weather, fall setting may not 
succeed so well, unless done well and early. 

In 1847, we set trees of various kinds, in Oct. and Nov., 
some in wet land ; the following winter was open and change- 
able, and the most trying to trees we ever knew, yet they all 
lived and grew well. Set in spring, as early as the land is 
dry enough to work. If it be not dry early, take up and heel 
them in, as on page 49. By all means take them up before 
vegetation commences, and if well cared for, it is not so im- 
portant about setting them early, and if the land be wet and 
muddy, delay is better. 

Transplanting in Summer. The late S. Perkins, Esq., 
of Brookline. stated in the Horticulturist that he removed 
many trees in summer, even when loaded with fruit, with^ 



CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 51 

out checking the growth or injury to the fruit. A trench, 
several inches wide, is cut round the tree, outside the roots, 
and as deep as the roots, and filled with water, and covered ; 
and in 30 or 40 hours the tree is carefully taken up and set 
with the hall of earth. In this way plants or trees may be 
removed, without injury, at any time in the season. 

Removing Large Trees. If convenient, it is better to 
prepare large trees by digging a trench, in spring, around the 
tree, about as far from the trunk as the roots can be taken 
up. Dig deep enough to cut off the roots, and fill the trench 
with fine rich loam and mellow manure. Numerous new 
small roots will shoot out, which can be removed with the 
tree, and compensate for the long roots cut off. In most 
cases many roots are lost in removing large trees, and the 
limbs must be cut off still more. In some cases it is neces- 
sary to cut off all the limbs of large trees, leaving only 
stubs, from one to three feet long. Under good manage- 
ment they will soon start with vigor, and furnish a new top. 
Losing the top of a tree retards it but little, but a loss of roots 
destroys its vigor, if not its life. If a tree is to be changed, 
graft after it is removed, and in this way the top will be re- 
duced, and an improved one soon formed. Sometimes large 
and small trees are removed late in the fall or early in the 
winter with a ball of frozen earth. 

Transplanting in the Bud. Much has been said about 
success and failure in transplanting trees after budding, and 
before the bud starts in the spring. It is evident that a 
transplanted tree will not grow so well the first season after 
transplanting as it would if it had not been removed, unless 
it be done early in fall, or set in richer land. Yet if trans- 
planting be well done, early in fall, or very early in spring, 
into fine rich soil, the buds will start and grow, and attain a 
good size. The practice is not recommended only as a mat- 
ter of convenience. 

CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 

In some cases, fruit trees are set in new lands, in rich 
pastures, by road-sides, in loose, mellow, rich soil, where 
they will grow sufficiently fast for a while without cultiva- 
tion or manure. But in most cases trees need manure and 
culture, as much as corn or potatoes, and they will pay as 
well for care and expenditure. 



52 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

The land among fruit trees should be thoroughly ploughed, 
(but not too deep among the roots,) and often stirred with 
the plough, cultivator, harrow, or hoe, to keep it light, loose, 
and mellow, promoting the growth of the trees, and protect- 
ing them against drought. The land should also be well 
manured, and kept in a fertile state. 

A tree that has grown long in a place, and is not supplied 
with manure, is much like an animal tethered to one spot, 
with a limited quantity of food. In both cases, food must 
be carried to them, or they fail. Perhaps the tree is too old 
to advance its roots much further in quest of food, or in ex- 
tension they might find scanty fare in a soil preoccupied, 
like the animal that, with a longer rope, is able to trespass 
on land already fed by a neighbor as hungry as himself. 
Spading around trees, or ploughing a few furrows near them, 
while most of the land is in grass, is only partial cultiva- 
tion ; but it may answer in a good soil kept in a high con- 
dition. 

Some crops may be cultivated among fruit trees with profit. 
Others are injurious. Indian corn and all smaller grains, 
and crops generally that ripen their seeds, injure trees. Pota- 
toes and other root crops are favorable ; so are squashes, and 
vines generally. Clover, as pasturage, is favorable ; as 
mowing, injurious. Pasturing orchards with small animals, 
as hogs, calves, sheep, and poultry, have a good effect, and 
they destroy insects, as the animals devour the fallen fruit, 
insects and all. Sheep are good against canker-worms. 
The treading and rooting of animals destroys or annoys 
insects in the soil. Sometimes hogs strip the bark from the 
roots of trees, and must be watched. 

It is more economical to manure liberally, and take off 
crops ; as the constituents of vegetables are generally differ- 
ent from those of trees ; but when the trees nearly cover the 
land, it should be wholly devoted to them, and the manuring 
and culture continued, as the extra produce, and superior 
quality of the fruit, will amply repay the cost. The finest 
orchard in the country (page 27) has produced large crops 
of vegetables that have paid all the expenditures. 

A great variety of manures is useful for trees, and various 
kinds besides animal manures are often best and cheapest ; 
yet animal manures, about 1 part in 2 or 3, are very good 
in compost. Mud, peat, or muck is excellent, if dug and 
exposed to the air and frost one season. They are much 



CULTIVATION AND MANURES. 53 

improved by the addition of ashes, 10 or 20 bushels to the 
cord. A small quantity of lime, salt, soot, and plaster, 
are also excellent. These form a cheap and valuable ma- 
nure. 

Rotten wood, hay, straw, leaves, sawdust, chips, shavings, 
weeds, &c, are excellent manure for trees ; but some alkali, 
such as lime or ashes, should be added to neutralize the 
acidity. These substances are all excellent for mulching. 
Fine charcoal is good ; so are saltpetre, nitrate of soda, in 
small quantities. Guano is good, properly mixed in loam, 
but it is usually dear. 

Salt lye or soap-boilers' waste, mixed with loam, also 
soap-suds, sink-water, and urine, are valuable, and it is best 
to mix them in compost. Bone manure and horn shavings 
are good. Almost every vegetable substance in liberal por- 
tions, animal substances in a moderate way, well prepared, 
and mineral substances in profusion or in a small way, ac- 
cording to their strength, are beneficial to trees, when prop- 
erly prepared and applied, and a variety is usually the 
best. Even coal-ashes are useful on any soil. Black- 
smiths' cinders are good for pear-trees and grape-vines. 
Night-soil mixed with loam is fine, and even granite-dust is 
useful. 

Compost for all Kinds of Trees, &c. One cord or 100 
bushels of mud, muck, peat, or heavy loam, for dry. sandy 
or gravelly soils ; or the same quantity of sand, gravel, or 
light loam for clayey, muddy, or moist soils ; or common 
loam, or a mixture of different kinds, for a soil of common 
texture. Add 20 or 30 bushels of manure from the stable, 
barn-yard, or hog-pen. Add 10 bushels wood-ashes, half a 
bushel of salt, and a peck of plaster ; a little less of these 
for moist land, and more or twice as much for dry soil. 
These will make a good compost for any trees or plants ; but 
if convenient, add any of the materials named as manures 
in this chapter. 

Liquid Manures. Soap-suds are a good manure for trees 
and plants of every description, as they contain a variety of 
elements. We have with this manure alone rendered poor 
land highly productive. Rev. M. Allen, of Pembroke, a 
veteran and distinguished farmer, showed to us highly 
valuable effects from applying soap-suds liberally around 
large apple-trees in grass land. To suds, add sink-water 
and urine, and all these, in mixture or separate, are better 
5* 



54 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



for the growing plant for fermenting a few weeks. From 
almost every manure, particularly those that are readily 
soluble, a good liquid manure may be made. 



TRAINING. 

Oar climate is so warm, that training fruits in a southern 
aspect to walls, fences, buildings, banks, &c, for the purpose 
of obtaining greater heat, is necessary with only a few 
southern or foreign fruits, in the North. Most varieties cul- 
tivated in the temperate region, come to perfection, even in 
N. England, in the common tree form. 

Yet training is sometimes useful to obtain a due degree 
of heat; it is also very ornamental and convenient in a 
garden, giving a beautiful and tasteful appearance, econo- 
mizing room, and furnishing superior specimens of fruit. 
There are various modes suited to different purposes, situa- 
tions, and tastes. 

Tree Training differs from common tree form in the pro- 
duction of low and extended branches, caused by cutting 
back the stem, and checking the upper limbs, until the lower 
ones become large and strong from the full force of light and 
heat. It admits of modifications, and is adapted to various 
purposes, and to almost every species of tree or plant. 

After one year's growth of the young tree, scion, or vine, 
cut off the main stem, (figure a,) leaving buds on each side. 
Next season, train a branch each way, and a stem upward, 
which cut down as before, (figure b.) The third season, 




Different Stages of Tree-Training. 

train a new branch each way, and the stem upward, and cut 
back again, (figure c,) and train small limbs on the lower 
branches, on each side, or on the upper side only. Another 
season, train up a stem and cut down again, training out 
another branch on each side, and limbs on another branch, 



TRAINING. 



55 



(figure d, showing one side.) In most other modes, the top 
and upper branches are kept back, to induce low branches, 
and give them a strong growth first. 
Fan Training is a convenient form, and is much practised 




Fan Training. 
with grapes, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, figs, (fee. 

Horizontal Training is a very neat and ornamental 
mode, giving a good exposition to light, heat, and air. It 
is practised with grapes, pears, apples, &c. The distance 








Horizontal Training. 

between the laterals should be from 10 to 20 inches, accord 
ing to the size of the tree or vine. 



56 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



At the splendid and beautiful 
villa of J. P. Cushing, Esq., in 
Watertown, in this vicinity, where 
numerous experiments are made in 
every department of cultivation, 
pear trees are trained in this way, 
and each branch grafted with a 
different kind, serving an impor- 
tant purpose of utility, as well as 
of ornament. 

QlJENOUELLE TRAINING. Ill this 

mode, the tree is run up tall, the 
branches not extended wide, but 
bent down and fastened at first by 
lines. It is a neat, compact mode, 
requiring but little room, generally 
about half a rod square, and from 
the branches depending, abundant 
bearing is induced. Some cut 
back the main branches annually, 
in training, to give vigor to the 
lower branches. 

Pyramidal Training is a neat 
and beautiful form, adapted to 
apples and pears, and it affords 
the advantages of light and air to 
all parts, as the top branches do 
not overshadow the lower. 

Spiral or 
Hoop Train- 
ing is some- 
times prac- 
tised as a 
matter of 
convenience 
or of taste. 
Posts are set 
in a circle, 
and several 





Quenouelle Training. 




Pyramidal Training. 



Spiral Training 

posts, or around an arbor, in a spiral form 



vines, set on the outside, or several 
branches from a central vine, (as in 
the figure,) are trained around the 



PRUNING. 57 

PRUNING. 

Many fruit-growers run into extremes. Some prune too 
much, others too little, or none at all ; and some run first 
into one extreme and then into the other, neglecting their 
trees for years, and then pruning to ruinous excess. Most 
trees need moderate pruning only. Some require pruning 
to give them proper form, and it is necessary to clear away 
dead and decaying limbs. 

By judicious pruning we have more thrifty trees, larger 
foliage, and larger and finer fruit, and the sun and air are 
admitted into the top, to improve and perfect the fruit. The 
cutting off of a large limb is injurious, as there is usually 
a large root corresponding, which will be seriously affected 
by the loss, and the whole tree must suffer. 

Very compact tops may need thinning. Be cautious about 
going into a tree to prune with hard boots or shoes on, when 
the bark peels. Use a fine saw for large branches, then pare 
smoothly. Various applications are made where large limbs 
are cut. Grafting composition, also a mixture of equal parts 
of clay and cow manure, are used for large wounds from 
cutting of limbs and injuries. Alcohol, with as much shel- 
lac dissolved in it as will make it of the consistence of paint, 
applied with a painter's brush, is excellent. It excludes the 
air and water, and is unaffected by change of weather. 

Time for Pruning. Volumes have been written on this 
subject, a great part of which is mere theory. Many prune 
in the spring from custom, and others in June because the 
wound heals quickly, not reflecting that it is of more im- 
portance that the wound heal soundly than quickly. We 
give directions according to our experience for 30 years. 

Slight pruning, in which very small limbs, or dead limbs 
of any size, are removed, may be performed when most con- 
venient, in any season. Moderate pruning should be done 
in June, July, or August, though it will answer very well 
till Dec. If trees are pruned in July, Aug., or Sept., the 
wood will become hard, sound, and well seasoned, and com- 
mence healing over ; and it is not material, otherwise than 
for appearance, whether it heals over the first, second, or 
third year, as it will remain in a healthy state. 

We should prefer Oct., Nov., or even Dec, to the spring, 
which is the worst season. The trees then are full of sap, 
and it oozes out at the wound, which turns black and decays, 



58 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

like a tree cut in the spring, and allowed to retain the bark. 
But if limbs, ever so large, are cut in Aug. and Sept., the 
wood will become hard and remain so, if it never heals over. 

Thirty-two years ago, in Sept., we cut a very large branch 
from an apple-tree, on account of injury by a gale. The 
tree was old, and it has never healed over ; but it is now 
sound, and almost as hard as horn, and the tree perfectly 
sound around it. A few years before and after, large limbs 
were cut from the same tree in spring ; and where they were 
cut off the tree has rotted, so that a quart measure may be 
put into the cavities. 

Pruning Young Trees and Branches of Large Ones. Side 
shoots of young or nursery trees should not be cut off at 
first, as it will induce weakness in the stem, the trees will 
bend over, and staking cannot save them. The only rem- 
edy is to cut them off, and let them start anew. 

Examine a young tree with numerous side branches all 
the way up the trunk, and you will find that it tapers off as 
it ascends, showing that every limb gives additional strength 
to the tree below it, down, not only to the ground, but to the 
roots also. The lower limbs of young trees are like tributa- 
ries to rivers, which serve to strengthen and enlarge them. 
Remove these tributaries, and where will be the noble river ? 

Spur Pruning is the shortening of lateral branches, by 
cutting them off a few inches from the stem ; and occasion- 
ally the largest should be cut off smoothly at the trunk, and 
thus gradually reduced, as the top of the tree is formed. 

If you would have large trees, under which you can pass 
with teams, do not make them tall at once, but train them 
up, retaining side branches to give body and health to the 
trunk and roots till you get your tree up, and an elevated 
top to perform these offices. This may be done gradually, 
and with success, cutting away the lower limbs as the top 
becomes large. In the first place, cut out the largest side 
limbs, that they may not become too large, or cut them off 
a little way from the trunk, to check their growth, while the 
trunk grows and attains a larger proportion ; then their am- 
putation will produce less effect. 

Allied to the cutting off of side shoots, or stripping the 
side leaves from young trees, is the trimming of large limbs 
by cutting off all shoots and spurs a considerable distance 
from the trunk because they do not bear fruit, when they 
perform an equally important office in giving growth and 
strength, not only to the branch, but to the trunk and root. 



STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS. 59 



STOCKS AND THEIR EFFECTS. 

Great attention should be paid to the selection of stocks, 
for they often have an important effect on the growth, pro- 
duction, and life of the tree, and on the quality of the fruit. 
In most cases, grafted and budded trees are smaller and shorter 
lived than natural trees. The nearer the stock and scion are 
allied, the more hardy and longer lived the tree will be. On 
the contrary, the wider the differenc;j the sooner the tree will 
come to an end. In extreme cases of disparity, as the pear 
and the apple, they generally die in a few years. 

Seedling stocks are best, as suckers are liable to send up 
suckers, to have a stinted growth, and die prematurely. 
Sometimes there are great advantages in putting scions on 
stocks different from themselves, as we shall show under 
different species. 

Effects of the Stock on the Scion and FfvUit. Some 
years ago we published our views, showing that the stock 
affected the fruit in various ways. This novel view was 
generally opposed. But as science increases, the best prac- 
tical men acknowledge the fact, and profit by it. 

We have never read various articles of any writer, nor 
conversed much with an intelligent cultivator, who has not 
acknowledged, directly or indirectly, that the stock affects the 
fruit of the scion. We could quote numerous authorities 
and hundreds of cases showing that the stock affects the 
fruit "for better or for worse." It affects the size, form, 
color, quality, time of ripening, production, time of bearing, 
year of bearing, and as to health and perfection, or defects 
and decay. And the higher up the stock is grafted, the 
greater will be its effect on the scion. 

We have noticed several cases of late plums grafted into 
a branch of an early tree, and when the early plums ripened, 
the leaves fell from the whole tree, and the late fruit failed 
from want of foliage. We grafted an apple that was usually 
sound on the top of a tree, the fruit of which was always 
water-cored, some of it almost a ball of water ; and that 
grafted fruit was always water-cored, but not so on the 
other trees. Mr. Rivers, of the Strowbridgeworth nursery, 
Eng., says that " some pears that are worthless on pear 
stocks are improved and fine on the quince ;' ; and every 
cultivator talks in a similar way. Joseph Cooper, Esq., of 



60 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

New Jersey, had Vandevere apples affected with bitter rot; 
he grafted them with other kinds, and the fruit had the same 
defect. And he said, " I have, in numerous instances, seen 
the stock have great influence over the fruit grafted thereon, 
in bearing, size, and flavor." 

Downing, while on this as a main subject, says that stocks 
never effect any alienation in the identity of the variety or 
species of fruit, yet he immediately speaks of "fine fruit 
trees whose seeds have established the reputation of fidelity 
to their sort ; but when grafted on another stock, they lose 
this power." Thomas, in speaking of using stocks different 
from the graft, says, " Besides increasing the productiveness 
of some varieties, the quality too is changed, and sometimes 
improved." Again, " Stocks may hasten or retard ripening ; 
they may affect the size, color, and quality of fruit." 

Generally, the scion governs, but the stock modifies. On 
the contrary, the stock preserves its identity below the graft, 
though grafted low and when small, so that a sucker from 
the root or below the graft will yield fruit like the stock ; yet 
sometimes the scion modifies the stock or its root, imparting 
some of its characteristics to it. Kirtland says that the 
Newtown Pippin will give roughness of bark (its own pecu- 
liar habit) to the stock. Some scions change the root of the 
stock to their own peculiarity. Mr. S. L. Goodale, a very 
observing nurseryman and fruit-grower, Saco, Me., states, 
in the Horticulturist, that he grafted vigorous kinds of plums 
on slow-growing Canada stocks, and they ran to tops, the 
roots being less than those not grafted. We have other 
cases. It is evident that the scion and stock have a recipro- 
cal influence on each other ; yet each maintains the principal 
control at its ow r n end of the tree. 



EFFECTS OF SOIL, CLIMATE, LOCATION, CUL- 
TURE, MANURE, PRUNING, OVER-BEARING 
AND THINNING. 

Soils have a powerful effect in the modification of fruit, 
so much that some are large, fair, and of the greatest excel- 
lence on one soil, and worthless on another. They also vary 
the time of ripening, and materially affect the tree in growth, 
health, size, and longevity. 

Climate greatly affects both trees and fruit. Some varie- 
ties will flourish only in the region of their nativity, not 



EFFECTS OF CLIMATE AND LOCATION. 61 

bearing removal even to the East or West : while others 
seem adapted to almost every clime, and even to different 
hemispheres. Nearly all foreign apples fail in this country, 
yet the Gravenstein and Red Astrachan flourish well in 
almost every section. Of 800 foreign pears tried here, only 
a few are valuable; yet some are of great excellence in 
almost every section. Some foreign cherries, peaches, and 
plums are excellent, yet our indigenous fruits of every de- 
scription are taking precedence of exotics. 

Location has a great influence on the crop and quality. 
Low lands, near small streams of water, are usually frosty. 
By large bodies of water, a spray rises and extracts the frost 
before the sun shines, and prevents injury. In winter, this 
favorable influence is lost by bodies of fresh water, as they 
become frozen. Locations bordering on salt water are 
warmer in winter and cooler in summer, as the atmosphere 
is modified by the more equable temperature of the water. 

Sheltered locations, particularly those that are screened from 
the north winds, are the most liable to frosts. (Page 180). 
In such situations, trees are subjected to the widest extremes 
of temperature ; thawing by day, and freezing by night, 
which often destroy tender trees, or buds, or blossoms in 
spring. Yet such warm locations may be necessary in the 
North, to bring late kinds to perfection, and even training 
may be requisite in addition. In cities, large towns, and 
even in villages, the cold is usually less severe ; hence, some 
tender trees flourish in such places. 

Elevated lands are generally best for fruits ; and though 
less exposed to frost than low lands, during 24 hours or the 
year, the high lands, on an average, are cooler. In some 
places on the Connecticut river, vegetation is ,3 or 4 weeks 
more forward than on the neighboring highlands. An ele- 
vation of 600 feet is equal to a degree of north latitude. 
Hence a high mountain has the climate of a more northern 
region. A hollow among highlands is colder than such a 
situation down lower. 

Sometimes the buds or blossoms are killed below, and 
escape above, a horizontal line ; so nice is this distinction, 
sometimes, that only the tops of tall trees have fruit on them. 

Great elevation is unfavorable, from the pelting of winds 
upon tender blossoms, fruit, and foliage, and in some cases 
it is too cold to perfect the fruit. 

Culture has a powerful effect. Where the soil long 
6 



62 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

remains stationary, the roots and the trees become in a 
measure stationary also, and the fruit is light and worthless. 
Those unacquainted with good management of fruit trees 
can hardly imagine the good effects of cultivation. The 
effects of good culture are as evident in the quality and good 
appearance of fruit as in the product. 

Manure is necessary to the successful production of all 
kinds of fruit, unless they are raised in new or rich lands. 
On old lands it is indispensable, and a variety is requisite 
to give perfection to fruit, more particularly when the land 
has become exhausted. Sometimes manure has a great 
effect on the quality of fruit, as well as on its production, 
size, fairness, &c. On old lands, ashes, plaster, lime, bone 
manure, &c, should be applied liberally. 

Pruning, judiciously practised, has an important effect 
both in the quantity and quality of fruit. We have improved 
trees, that yielded but little poor fruit, by moderate pruning, 
so as to produce a good crop, of an excellent quality. The 
nutriment necessary to support decaying limbs, and super- 
fluous suckers and branches, was turned to the production 
and perfection of the fruit. In this way, a half hour's labor 
will sometimes increase the crop to the amount of several 
dollars. 

Over-bearing and Thinning have influence also. In 
some cases, a tree hangs so full that it is impossible for it 
to perfect the whole crop ; and the consequence of allowing 
it all to remain on,will be small, pale, insipid fruit. In many 
cases of over-fulness, if half the crop be taken off while 
small, the other half would not only equal the whole in 
quantity, but owing to large size, fairness, and superior 
quality, it would sell for more, perhaps twice as much, in 
the market. 

ACCLIMATION. 

In changing any variety of fruit from one climate to 
another, the removal should be under favorable circumstan- 
ces. In carrying trees to a colder climate, it should be done 
in the spring, that the growth and ripening of the tree may 
be in accordance with its new climate, and not have a cold 
winter come suddenly on the luxuriant growth of a warmer 
region. On the contrary, on carrying trees to a warmer 
climate, transfer them in the fall or early winter, to avoid 
the sudden changes from a cold winter to dry, hot summer. 



ACCLIMATION DWARFING. 63 

But the better way to accustom fruit to a different climate 
is by carrying scions or seeds ; the latter should be preferred, 
when they will produce the genuine kinds. In these cases, 
the growth of the whole tree, and its habits, will in some 
measure be adapted to its new home. There are but few 
foreign apples worth cultivating in this country, as they are 
defective ; yet we have superior apples, admirably adapted 
to our climate, from the seeds of foreign kinds or their de- 
scendants. Most foreign pears fail from some imperfections, 
yet we have fine hardy natives from their seeds. 

By acclimation, the peach has travelled gradually from a 
region of perpetual summer, to a cold clime, where it often 
bears, without injury, 30 or 40 degrees below freezing. We 
have Baldwin apples in Maine that have been there 50 
years, which are perfectly hardy, while those carried from 
this region to that State often fail in cold winters. 

, DWARFING. 

For want of room, or for the purpose of causing trees to 
bear young, dwarfing is desirable, and in this way larger 
specimens of fruit are often obtained. Dwarf trees are 
usually very great and early bearers. In a small garden, 
where there is room for only a few large trees, many dwarfs 
may be set, affording a variety and succession of fruit. If 
a piece of land be set with many dwarfs, instead of a few 
large standards, a crop of fruit will be obtained much ear- 
lier ; and in this way, a small lot may be made ornamental. 

The best way of dwarfing is to use a stock naturally 
small, as the paradise stock for the apple ; the Canada, and 
other slow-growing stocks, for the plum ; the quince or thorn 
for the pear ; the plum for the peach ; the mahaleb stock for 
the cherry, &c. The paradise stock reproduces itself from 
seed, the fruit of which is small and acid. There is a large 
dwarf kind, called Doucain, the fruit of which is sweet, pro- 
duced also by seed. Mahaleb is a wild cherry of Europe. 
In every species of fruit, there are some slow-growing kinds 
that may be used for dwarfs. 

We have often raised trees, of the same species, that dif- 
fered more than half in their growth. Dwarfs may be made 
by working a slow grower on a stock, and the desirable kind 
on that. Frequent transplanting tends to dwarf any tree, 
by retarding its growth. Dwarfs may be made of any tree 



64 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

by root-pruning, shortening-in of the branches, and giving 
only moderate culture. 

ROTATION. 

In raising nursery trees, or growing standards, there must 
be a rotation of crops, or great care to supply, in the ma- 
nures, those elements that abound in the trees. We saw- 
some seedling apple trees of one year's growth, the rows of 
which ran across a strip of land in which seedling apples 
had grown the year previous. The stocks on that strip 
were about half as large as the others. On a part of the 
other land were plum seedlings the previous year. There 
the apple seedlings were not quite as large as where other 
crops had grown, which shows that, though one species 
of trees will grow tolerably well after another, yet they do 
better to succeed other crops. Numerous other experiments 
show the same results. Dr. Lee, editor of the Southern Cul- 
tivator, says that a nurseryman lost 17,000 grafted apple 
trees, in consequence of having exhausted the soil of ele- 
ments necessary for their formation, by having grown, year 
after year, and removed from the land, crops of trees. 
Analysis showed that there was a lack of potash and lime, 
which stable manure did not sufficiently supply ; and he 
further says, that you may as well grow one variety of plants 
year after year, for a century, on the same land, as to fatten 
the same kind of hogs year after year, in the same pen, by 
supplying the food they need. To this remark we would 
add, that if you turn pigs into a lot of clover, roots, nuts, or 
fruit, and remove them and put in others, when the food is 
mostly consumed, the second lot must be fed more than the 
first ; so of trees. A piece of land may be so rich as to 
produce a good growth a number of years ; then it may 
need manure, and of particular kinds, containing the ele- 
ments composing the trees. If trees are removed, or decay, 
and others of the same species are set on the same land, 
liberal manuring will be necessary in raising another crop. 
A renewal of the soil may be necessary from the forest or 
pasture. If the trees decay on the land, the process will be 
slow, and there will at first be much acid, in the rotten wood, 
and there will also have been much exhaustion from prun- 
ings, waste of leaves scattered to the winds, and the removal 
of fruit. These losses must be supplied. These facts show 



NEW VARIETIES DECLENSION. 65 

the importance of changing the site of an orchard when the 
trees have decayed, or changing the soil, and adding lime, 
ashes, salt, charcoal, &c, in addition to common stable 
manure. 

NEW VARIETIES FROM SEED. 

A few varieties of fruit only produce the same from seed. 
In this way some peaches, a few plums, apricots, and cher- 
ries are propagated. Most kinds are propagated by grafting 
and budding ; and from the effects of the stock, and from the 
mixing of blossoms, a great many new varieties are pro- 
duced from seed, the most of which are worthless, tending 
back to the natural type, or wild state. 

Yet incidentally, and by design, new and superior fruits 
are constantly produced. In this way we have, of compar- 
atively recent production, nearly all our best fruits, and we 
are making valuable acquisitions annually. Many of the 
best kinds of fruit are cultivated together; and when in 
blossom, they mix by wind, by insects, and by intermingling 
of branches, so that a profusion of new kinds are produced. 

A cross between two kinds is formed by shaking the branch 
of one over the other while in blossom. A more scientific 
way is to remove the stamens of a flower, as it begins to 
expand, and then cover it with gauze, and when the pistils 
are perfect, apply to them the pollen of a desired kind, and 
cover again till out of blossom. This forms a regular cross 
of desired kinds, and the parents are well known. (Page 
76.) 

DO SOME VARIETIES DECLINE ? 

On this subject there is ample room for argument and 
theory, on both sides. In some parts of the world, and in 
different ages, varieties of fruit have apparently declined. 
This seems a powerful reason in favor of the affirmative of 
this question ; but it is more plausible than sound. Perhaps 
we ought to blame the culture, not the fruit ; for while a kind 
declines in one section, it flourishes in full vigor in another, 
and even in the same section, in a congenial soil, and under 
good management. A variety may flourish in new lands; 
but soon some ingredient is exhausted, and it will never 
flourish there again, unless scientifically manured, that is, 
with the deficient elements. The St. Michael or White 
6* 



DO AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Doyenne pear, that cracks and blights in the old parts of 
N. England, is in full vigor in the Middle and Western 
States ; and under superior management in Boston, they are 
very fine. It also does pretty well in the interior of N. 
England. 

Generally, it is the soil, not the fruit, that declines, from 
repeated cropping, without suitable manure to preserve its 
original fertility. Perhaps there is in the soil no potash or 
other alkali, to dissolve silex for the plant or tree, or some 
salt or other ingredient is wanting. 

Fruit may decline from a change in seasons, or from a 
country gradually undergoing a change in its climate by 
reason of the reduction or increase of forests, by the recla- 
mation of wet lands, by changing the course of streams, or 
other increase or decrease of bodies of water. Location 
and elevation often have an effect equal to a change of cli- 
mate. All these things, and many others, have effects, par- 
ticularly on very susceptible kinds. 

A variety may decline from being on unhealthy stocks, 
and the scions from it may retain and continue the defect. 
Sometimes we have a great change in weather, both in 
summer and winter, and the constitution of the atmosphere 
may be occasionally modified. Fruits generally decline, not 
from intrinsic defects, but from external circumstances. The 
cholera and potato rot do not indicate any decline in the 
human race or in that valuable esculent. 

A fruit may decline in what is called its native climate, 
where the tree had its birth, when in reality its true nativity 
was in a more congenial region where the seed grew. This 
first cause is often overlooked in tracing the origin of fruits. 
The orange fails here, though produced from seed, as that 
was raised in a milder clime. Grafting and budding tend 
to deterioration, as the stock and scion often vary in their 
habits, even when of the same species ; (page 59 ;) and when 
the stock and scion are of different species, as the quince, 
thorn, mountain-ash, and apple for the pear, there is still 
greater degeneracy in tree, though there may not be in fruit. 

Though there is far less declension in fruit than is gener- 
ally supposed, yet there are, doubtless, cases in which decline 
is peculiar to, or inherent in, the variety. It is the same 
with fruits as with races of animals and vegetables gener- 
ally. They may decline from inherent defects, or from exter- 
nal circumstances. 



FRUTTFTJLNESS AND EARLY BEARING. 67 



TO INDUCE FRUITFULNESS AND EARLY 
BEARING. 

In some cases, it is desirable to bring fruit trees into early- 
bearing, to determine the kind, and for other purposes. 
Trees may grow large and luxuriantly, and be a long time 
in bearing. 

Root Pruning has been practised of late years, for this 
purpose. The roots are laid bare, and some of the longest 
are cut off a few feet from the tree ; this checks its growth, 
and early bearing is the result. This is practised also for 
the purpose of dwarfing in gardens, where small trees are 
preferred. The fall is a favorable season for this operation, 
but it shortens the life and restricts the size of the tree, and 
ranks with the fancy work of the amateur. 

Ringing. Carefully remove a ring of bark about one sixth 
of an inch wide from a limb you would form blossom buds, 
or retain and perfect its fruit, but do not cut the wood. As 
the sap returns in the bark, it will be checked, and tend to 
the growth and fmitfulness of the branch, but at the expense 
of the rest of the tree. It is like starving one pig to fatten 
another, instead of keeping both growing. Granulations 
will be formed, and the wound healed ; then the sap will 
pass on, else the branch would die. This may be done in 
July, to form blossom buds, and just before blossoming ; to 
set fruit, retain and improve it. It is adapted to the pear 
and apple. 

Bending the Limbs down, and fastening them in that po- 
sition, as in quenouelle training, retains the sap in them, 
inducing bearing and improvement in fruit, without injury 
to the tree. Hence there is more philosophy than whim in 
the saying, that the bending down of fruit trees by heavy 
snows indicates a fruitful season. 

Transplanting a tree frequently has a tendency to check 
its growth, and cause early bearing; but it will reduce its 
size, and shorten its life. The effect is the same as root 
pruning, as roots are lost by removal. 

Stocks. By putting scions into stocks of slow growth, as 
pears on quince and thorns, luxuriant plums on Canada 
stocks, peaches on plums, apples on paradise stocks, the 
effect is similar to root pruning, both in causing early bear- 
ing and in the final effect on the tree. 



68 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Shortening-in is the most successful, convenient, and least 
injurious mode. In July, clip off about a third of the present 
year's growth ; this will cause the formation of blossom 
buds, instead of an extension of wood, as would be the case 
without clipping. We have found this very effectual on the 
peach. If buds have set naturally, cutting off half the last 
year's growth early in the spring will generally improve the 
fruit by reducing its quantity. 

Change of Soil and Addition of Condiments. Sometimes 
the soil may be too rich in vegetable and animal manures, 
and a change of a part for gravel, sand, or loam, with the 
addition of ashes, salt, lime, charcoal, bone manure, &c, 
may be necessary. Again, trees may suffer from poverty, 
and require richer soil, manures, and condiments, also more 
culture. A lean, porous soil of sand and gravel may require 
mud, peat, clay or loam, and vegetable matter. 

CAUSES OF FAILURE. 

These are various, often beyond the control of man, and 
some even defy his powers of investigation. We have 
treated of spring frosts and insects, under these heads. 
Drought is a common cause in our long, hot summers, es- 
pecially on dry lands. The preventives are deep culture 
and frequent stirring of the soil, the mixing clay, mud, peat, 
and marl with dry soils, the use of salt, ashes, and plaster, 
mulching or covering the land. 

There may be an abundance of manure, and yet lime, 
ashes, salt, bone manure, iron, or some other ingredient, may 
be wanting. The soil may contain too much vegetable 
mould, and not enough gravel and sand. 

General debility of the tree, or some disease or affection 
unknown, may cause failure. A hard winter, or sudden 
changes from heat to cold and the reverse, may injure the 
tree, or kill the blossom buds. 

A powerful wind, or heavy storms, when the trees are in 
blossom, may beat off and waste the pollen or fertilizing 
dust ; hence a failure, sometimes, on the windward side of 
a tree only. A very powerful heat at this season is supposed 
to have an unfavorable effect, perhaps by hastening too rap- 
idly the process of inflorescence, which may prevent the 
usual operations of insects on the flowers. We have known 
large crops after cool weather at the time of flowering, which 



SCRAPING AND WASHING. 69 

continued the blossom for several weeks. Slight frost, and 
cold winds, are more destructive when the fruit is setting, 
or soon after, than when the tree is in bloom. The most 
common causes of failure are evident and remediable. They 
are a want of manure, thorough culture, and judicious 
pruning. 

SCRAPING, WASHING, SLITTING, AND 
DISBARRING. 

Scraping the ross and loose bark from fruit trees, with a 
deck scraper or other implement, is very beneficial ; it gives 
a healthy action to the bark, and deprives insects of shelter, 
and nest for their eggs. This may be done at any time 
excepting spring, when the wounded bark turns black, and 
causes decay. June is a good time. 

Washes of various kinds are useful in destroying insects 
and their eggs, in giving the trunk and branches a fresh and 
healthy appearance, and serving for manure as they run 
down around the roots. Caustic washes, as a solution of 
potash, lime, wood-ashes, &c, are beneficial, and are very 
efficacious in destroying wood-lice, preventing the operations 
of borers and destroying their eggs. 

A strong lye of wood-ashes is a very convenient and ex- 
cellent wash ; and if the ashes are applied with it, so much 
the better. One pound of potash to a pailful or 2 gallons 
of water makes a very strong wash, and it is highly valua- 
ble. Some have used 1 pound to a gallon without injuring ; 
others have injured trees by so powerful a caustic. Fresh 
lime is good, but it should not be used as whitewash, as it 
will injure the trees by closing the pores of the bark, and 
preventing the favorable effects of dews, rains, and air, and 
a caustic coat long on the bark is liable to kill it. Besides, 
whitewash on trees is unsightly. Use hen or other manure 
with lime, to destroy its tenacity ; then the whole will be 
gradually washed down the tree for manure. 

Soft-soap, strong soap-suds, and whale oil soap quite strong, 
are valuable washes. Add ashes to soap-suds. A compound 
may be made of soap-suds, tobacco water, soot, a little 
salt, hen, pigeon, or cow dung, sulphur, and other nauseous 
and rich substances, more or less, that will be highly useful 
in destroying insects, cleansing and improving the bark, en- 
riching the soil, and annoying insects. 



70 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Apply washes freely, and several times in a year, with ai 
stiff brush, to all parts of the trunk and the large branches, 
carefully avoiding the leaves, if the wash be strong. 

Slitting the Bark. Some person says that there is noo 
more danger of the bark getting too small for the tree, thani 
there is of a boy's skin becoming too small for his body. . 
But in some cases, under a vigorous growth, the bark of 
trees will crack open, particularly cherry trees, and the wood 1 
is liable to crack also. In such cases, slitting may save the I 
trees, as the openings will be small when there are a num- • 
ber of slits. In this operation, do not make long slits with i 
the grain of the wood, but make short slits in spiral form. 
With suitable scraping, washing, and other good manage- 
ment, slitting will seldom be necessary. 

Disbarking. Old bark-bound trees, particularly apple 
trees, are improved by stripping the bark from the trunks, 
about the time of the longest days. In this case, the trees 
should be put into a thrifty state, and the bark taken off 
with great care, so as not to disturb the cambrhim between 
the bark and wood, which will soon form a fresh, healthy 
bark. This mode has been practised but little. It is well 
to screen the naked trunk from the sun a few weeks. 

RENOVATING OLD TREES. 

Sometimes old trees, or those not very old, fail from the 
exhaustion of the soil, while they still possess life and vigor 
under good management. In most cases, trees may be 
renovated by ploughing, manuring, pruning, scraping, and 
washing. Let the manure be adapted to the soil, as directed 
on page 53. Keep the land well cultivated. Stir the soil 
often. 

In case trees are far gone by neglect, remove the earth, 
and prune off rotten or decayed roots, and replace fresh soil 
from the forest, including mould and leaves, or from a pas- 
ture not recently or ever ploughed, or any other fresh soil 
different from that around the tree, and thoroughly mix with 
the soil a liberal quantity of compost. (Page 53.) And if 
the soil be not removed as far as the roots extend, enrich it, 
and stir deep and thoroughly to the extent of the roots, but 
carefully avoid injuring them. 

Prune off about one third of the limbs, including those 
that are dead or decaying ; scrape and wash thoroughly. In 



TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. 71 

this way many trees, now useless, may be made to bear abun- 
dant crops of excellent fruit. Many trees that do not now 
produce a peck of fair fruit, could be made to yield several 
barrels of the finest quality, and at a moderate expense too. 
Sometimes the larvae of the 17 years' locust seize upon the 
roots of trees, and draw their support from them. Exam- 
ine, and remove this evil, if it exists. 

TO SAVE GIRDLED TREES. 

Take large scions, long enough to reach over the girdling 
or decay, scarf off each end on the side to go next to the 
tree, like the lower end of the scion in side grafting, and 
insert each end in the same way, under the bark, the upper 
end being the reverse of side grafting, and like inarching. 
(See figure, right side, page 46.) In large trees 12 or 15 
scions are inserted, which sustain it. We have seen trees 
8 or 10 inches through that were girdled, or otherwise dead 
in the bark, saved in this manner. 

The sap ascends in the sap wood, and descends in the 
inner bark, and the tree, though starting well, will decay, 
unless by scions the returning juice can descend to the roots. 
Dr. Shurtleff had a pear tree with dead bark on the trunk, 
too low down to insert scions. He set young trees near it, 
and inserted them by inarching ; after a while a sprout came 
from the root, and that was inserted, also, above the injury. 
The old tree and the young stocks did well, the sprout con- 
necting the trunk with the root. Trees decaying in the 
bark, all round the trunk, are saved by scions extending 
over the defect, and inserted under the live bark. 

TO PROTECT TREES FROM MICE, RABBITS, <kc. 

Meadow mice or moles often destroy trees by girdling. 
As they work under the snow, treading down early snows 
around trees is a preventive. Heaping up a cone of earth 
around a tree, in the fall, is generally sure. On grass land, 
a cart-load of loam will suffice for several trees, and if 
spread around them in spring, will improve the soil. 

Trees may be saved by tying around them laths, shingles, 
old barrel staves, boards, old leather, canvass, cloth, birch, 
&c. In England, soot and milk, applied as paint, protects 
trees from hares and rabbits, and it may be good against 



\ 

72 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

mice. With tobacco, sulphur, assafcetida, hen or pigeon 
manure, or other offensive substances, and mud or clay, to 
give body and tenacity, a mixture may be made that will 
doubtless prevent all depredations of the kind ; and if the 
rains do not wash it off in the spring, remove it with soap- 
suds. Industrious cats are useful. 

TO PROTECT BLOSSOMS FROM FROST. 

When trees are in bloom, and a frost is expected, wet a 
bundle of straw thoroughly, and put it into the tree ; in a 
large tree, several bundles. Or when a frost has occurred, 
syringe the tree all over with cold water, before sunrise, and 
it will extract the frost without injury. When it is cloudy 
in the morning, the change to warmer will be gradual, and 
the injury less, than when the sun shines on the frozen 
blossoms. 

For a number of trees, make fires in several parts of the 
garden, of chips, saw-dust, tan, &c, and then throw on 
some materials rather moist, to make a slow combustion and 
smoke. Do this at 12 o'clock, and keep up the smoke till 
sunrise. Trees may be kept back by planting in cool loca- 
tions, on an elevation, or on a northern exposure. By 
placing snow and ice around trees, if it be not already there 
in plenty, and covering it with straw, hay, tan, shavings, 
&c, blossoming may be retarded. 

INSECTS. 

Numerous insects, of various kinds, prey upon fruits and 
trees. Some are destroyed with ease, others with difficulty. 
Man, the proud lord of creation, may control the elephant 
and lion, and capture the leviathan of the great deep, and 
yet he must see the favorite products of his industry fade 
away before the formidable doings of tiny insects. We 
shall here treat only of those insects that operate generally ; 
and, under each species of trees, of those that affect that 
kind mostly. 

Mr. David Haggerston, formerly farmer and gardener to 
J. P. Cushing, Esq., Watertown, highly distinguished for 
skill in his profession, discovered the valuable properties of 
whale-oil soap for the destruction of insects. On the body 
and branches of trees it may be used very strong, even 



INSECTS. 73 

tolerably thick ; but on foliage the rule is to use 1 pound to 
7£ gallons of water. This will kill tender insects, but not 
hardy ones. We have tried 1 pound of oil soap to 4 gal- 
lons of water, on the leaves of all kinds of fruit trees,, and 
various plants : and this is the strongest that they will bear, 
and they will not bear this in a hot sun. It should be 
applied in the evening, as the sun is declining; or very early 
in the morning, so as to dry wholly or partially before the 
sun shines warm on the leaves; or on a dull day. If 
applied when it rains, or immediately before, the effect will 
be less. For want of oil soap, use the same quantity of soft 
soap. It is not so strong, and perhaps more may be u«ed. 

This powerful preparation will not kill rose bugs, and, 
perhaps, some other extremely hardy insects may escape. 
For such, steep half a pound of tobacco in a gallon of water, 
and add that to the 4 gallons of solution of whale-oil soap. 
This will destroy them. A pint of whale-oil soap weighs 
1 lb. 2 oz. So use a pint to 4£ gallons of water, or eight 
ninths of a pint to 4 gallons. Oil soap of a dark color is 
the strongest, as the alkali predominates ; that of a light 
color is the weakest, as the oil prevails. Be not afraid of 
killing a leaf, while insects are destroying millions. 

Nearly all kinds of birds devour vast numbers of insects 
and their eggs ; therefore they should be protected and 
kindly treated. No boys should molest them or their nests, 
but rather encourage their sweet music and useful labors. 
Toads, snakes, and bats destroy multitudes of insects. 

The Rose Bua is a beetle about a third of an inch in length, 
of a slender body, tapering to each end. It comes from the 
ground in June, at the time the rose blossoms. It is the 
greatest pest that the fruit grower has to contend with, 
coming often in swarms, destroying both foliage and fruit Of 
almost every description. Sometimes they are so numerous 
that the cultivator retires from the scene discouraged, which 
their ravages soon render desolate. They often stop the 
growth or destroy tender trees, and ruin the crops of large 
ones. After 5 or 6 weeks, (sometimes they abound only 2 
or 3 weeks,) they suddenly disappear, entering the earth a 
few inches, where they deposit their eggs. A strong solution 
of whale-oil soap and tobacco water is the best remedy. 
Ashes, plaster, lime, ccc, will annoy but not destroy them. 
(See above.) 

Aphides or Plant Lice. They are on various plants ; 
7 



74 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

are of different colors, as green, brown, blue, black, red, 
crimson ; of various sizes, from that of a mite to the big- 
ness of a pear bug ; naked, or clothed in a woolly or furzy 
covering. As they multiply with astonishing rapidity, they 
should be destroyed as they make their appearance. 

For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soap-suds, or 
tobacco-water, or all, or any of them, mixed, as strong as 
possible without injury to the leaves. (Page 73.) Lady 
bird or lady bug, (Coccinella,) and a green fly (Chrysopa) 
destroy the aphis. 

Leaf Rollers, and Leaf Eaters. There are several 
kinds of caterpillars that roll up leaves that serve as a habi- 
tation and for food. Some live in buds, others fasten several 
leaves together to form a shelter. Some live under the bark, 
and others live on leaves without shelter. Crush them, or 
apply whale-oil soap or tobacco- water. 

Other Caterpillars, Worms, and Insects, too numer- 
ous to describe, occasionally prey on the foliage of fruit 
trees. For their destruction, use whale-oil soap, or soft 
soap, or a decoction of tobacco, or add this to the soap if 
necessary ; or, when the dew is on, sprinkle on the foliage 
dry ashes, or powdered lime. The liquid is most effectual. 

To Destroy Grubs and Insects in the Ground. Stir 
up the earth, and let hogs root it and devour them, if con- 
venient ; fowls are also very useful. Exposure of the earth, 
by ploughing, &c, in fall or early winter, will be a means 
of destruction by frost. Fresh slacked lime, or salt, in 
spring, will have a good effect, both in the destruction of 
insects and improvement of the trees. 

To Destroy Winged Insects, make flambeaux of tar or 
other slow combustion, and thousands will fly into the flames 
and perish. Set open vessels of whey, vinegar, and water, 
or other liquid that will retain them, and set in each vessel a 
lamp, just above the liquid, and many will be caught. In a 
flat vessel of oil, set a light, and cover it with a bell glass, 
besmeared with oil, in which the insects will be caught, or 
they will fall into the dish below. Take transparent bottles, 
fill them nearly up to the neck with sweetened water, and 
hang them into fruit trees. They will often become filled 
with a vast variety of insects. Pitchers, mugs, &c, will 
answer. Tie them up by the handle so that they hang 
obliquely, and fill them two thirds full of sweetened water. 
Many insects are thus destroyed which consume fruit when 
ripe, such as hornets, wasps, tec. 



BLOSSOMS. 75 



TO FRIGHTEN BIRDS. 

The birds, after protecting your fruits from insects, must 
be frightened away, unless allowed a share. Images avail 
but little ; in one case a bird used a pocket for a nest. Bells 
put in operation by windmills have a good effect. By a 
string extending to the house, they may be rung occasionally 
when there is no wind. Looking-glasses, or pieces of the 
same, suspended so as to swing in the sun, have a good 
effect, from their reflective power. A shingle hung by a 
string, swinging and revolving, will frighten birds ; but 
pieces of bright tin are better, and if two be near each other 
so as to make a tinkling, it is better still. Birds, kindly 
treated, are not easily frightened. 

TESTING FRUITS FAIRLY. 

A tree, shrub, or vine, may for the first or second year 
of bearing produce fruit inferior in size, appearance, and 
flavor, and yet, after a few years, yield the finest fruit. 
Therefore the cultivator should be patient, lest he condemn 
his best trees. While waiting for a fair test, the tree will be 
gaining in size, and be more valuable for grafting, if it 
should prove to be poor. The Black Eagle cherry bore so 
poor fruit at first that it would have been destroyed had it 
not been raised by a young lady. It is one of the finest 
*ruits. 

BLOSSOMS. 

A complete flower has on the outer side green leaves or 
sepals, called the calyx ; the delicate inner leaves, or petals, 
of various hues, called corolla ; stamens, which are usually 
long slender stems, next within the petals, having on the top 
a box, or anther, in which is contained fertilizing dust or 
pollen ; and pistils in the centre of the flower, which are 
usually shorter and stouter than the stamens, and less in 
number. The bottom of the pistils is the germ or rudiment 
of future fruit, the middle is the style, and the top the stigma. 
In some flowers, the calyx is wanting, yet a flower is 
regarded as perfect when it contains, in the same blossom, 
both stamens and pistils, these being the organs essential to 
reproduction. 



76 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Fruit Blossom. 




Fig. 1, Stamen, a, fila- i./?^>, 



ment; b, anther; 
c, pfillen. 

Fig. 2, Pistil, d, zerm ; 
e, style;/, stig- 
ma. 

Fig. 3, Perfect flower. 
g, stamens ; h, 
pistils. 



Some trees or plants have the stamens in one flower, and 
pistils in another, on the same tree, as corn, (the silk is the 
pistils, the stamens are on the spindle,) cucumbers, &c, and 
are called moncecious. Others have the staminate flowers on 
one tree or plant, and the pistillate on another, (page 266,) 
as the shepherdia, (page 288,) asparagus, <fcc, and are called 
dicecious. Most trees and plants producing fruit have per- 
fect flowers, like the apple, pear, peach, plum, cherry, &c. 

No Blows is a term applied to apples which have no 
blossoms or seeds, and but very little core. "We have seen 
several varieties. The fruit is very irregular or deformed. 
It is said that such anomalies are produced by inverting 
scions, or by inverting a small tree, after burying the top in 
the ground, and it has taken root. We cannot explain. 



LABELS. 

Trees should be marked promptly, distinctly, and durably. 
Trust not to memory. It is sufficient to bear mistakes 
which will occasionally occur, without adding to the vexa- 
tion by losing marks. A nurseryman lost $500 by budding 
from a falsely marked tree, before it bore. So much for one 
error. 

Zinc. Write on it with 2 parts of fine verdigris, 2 sal 
ammonia, 1 lamp-black, 20 water. Mix in a mortar with a 
little water at first. Bottle, and shake it occasionally. Or 
with types, stamp the number on the zinc. If zinc be 



LABELS. 



77 




exposed till oxydized or rusted, it may be marked with a lead 
pencil. Old zinc is thus prepared. Fig. a. 

Tin or Lead. Write with a sharp awl, 
cutting through the coat of tin ; or stamp 
the name or number with type. Fig. a. 
Use sheet lead in the same way. 

Wood with Printing. Print with com- 
mon types and printing ink, on smooth 
wood, better for being thinly painted with 
white lead, using a lever for a press ; more 
distinct, and, for nurserymen, more expedi- 
tious than writing. Four or five of each let- 
ter are enough. Bourgeois, Long Primer, or 
Small Pica, is a good size. Fig. a. 

Wood with Writing. Use soft, smooth, 
durable wood, and paint with white lead, or, if 
not painted, moisten the wood, and write with a good strong 
pencil, with a heavy hand. Fig. a. 

Wood with Numbers. A label of durable wood, 
3 to 6 inches long, and one half to an inch wide, 
and half as thick. Fig. b. On the corner cut 1 
notch for 1, 2 for 2, 3 for 3, 4 for 4. For 5, cut a 
notch across the edge or narrow side ; and for 10, 
a notch across the wide side, 2 for 20, 3 for 30, 4 
for 40. For 50, a notch obliquely across the nar- 
row side ; for 100, a notch obliquely across the 
wide side. In this simple way any number can 
be readily expressed, and if made of sound pine 
it will last many years, and it will endure if 
buried up in laying trees into the ground. To 
mark in this way, a knife and any stick are suf- 
ficient. Make two contiguous sides, one wider 
than the other, with a square corner between Fig. b. 
them. Mark stakes in the same way. In this way each 
variety of fruit is numbered. Figure b is numbered 177. 
Upper mark, 100 ; next, 50 ; 2 next, 20 ; next, 5 ; 2 next, 2. 
This plan is our invention, and from its simplicity and dura- 
bility, we prefer it to all others, for most purposes. It is 
convenient for marking all kinds of plants by labels or 
stakes, or for marking boxes of earth in which seeds are 
prepared for sowing in spring. 

Fastening on Labels. Stout twine will generally last a 
year ; leather longer ; both are transient. Strips of tea- 
7* 





78 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

chest lead are durable, and they expand as the tree grows. 
Annealed copper wire is durable, but mind that it does not 
cut the limb. Nos. 21 to 23 are a good size. Tin, zinc, or 

Fig. c. 

sheet lead, may be cut wide at one end for marking, the 
other running to a point, and bent round the limb. The 
point may be run through a hole in the label, and clenched. 
Fig. c. 

MAKING WINE. 

The juice of most kinds of fruit, with only the addition 
of sugar to some kinds, will make good wine ; and the best 
of vinegar, without sugar. (Page 269.) Such wine is the 
best for medicine, being free from alcohol, which is usually 
injurious to health, often doing more injury than the juice 
of the grape, with which it is mixed, does good. (Page 240.) 

There are three important requisites in making good wine : 
body, flavor, and color. Some fruits contain all these, and 
make excellent wine alone, as the Catawba grape. Others 
contain only flavor and color. Body or strength may be 
added by sugar ; and this is necessary to correct acidity. 

To make good wine, take well-ripened, but not over- 
ripened fruit, mash it finely, then press out the juice. In a 
small way, it may be pressed in a stout cloth ; in a larger 
way, in a coffee bag ; on a large plan, in presses. 

Strain the juice, add what sugar is necessary, put into 
bottles, or in casks, set in a cool cellar to moderate fermen- 
tation ; cork lightly at first, lest the bottle or cask burst ; 
watch carefully, and tighten the cork as the fermentation 
abates, that it may work as little as possible. When fer- 
mentation ceases, cork closely. A dry cellar is best. 

In this simple way we have made excellent wine of the 
juice of various kinds of fruits, and kept it a year or two in 
the best condition ; and we never add spirit, as it injures 
the quality ; nor spices, as they spoil the flavor. We prefer 
making a strong rich syrup, instead of adding water to the 
juice. It keeps better, it is in less compass, and water may 
be added when used. 

To the juice of currants, which is rather thin, and very 
acid, we add a pound of sugar to enough to make a quart 



WINE. 79 

bottle. The juice of milder fruits requires less sugar ; and 
that which is rich does not require so much to give it a body. 

Longworth says that "Catawba grapes, well ripened, need 
no sugar ; not well ripened, require 8 or 10 ounces of sugar 
to the gallon of wine. Isabella makes a sweet wine with 
1£ or 2 pounds of sugar to the gallon. When grapes are 
too ripe, the saccharine fermentation takes place in the fruit, 
which gives it more sweetness, but less flavor." 

Wine may be made from green grapes, or even from the 
leaves and tender shoots of the vine, mashed in water, by 
adding sugar liberally. 

Make vinegar in the usual way, by exposing the juice 
to the air. It will be better for keeping it a while with 
moderate fermentation, as in making a pleasant liquor or 
wine. 

GATHERING AND PRESERVING. 

The value of fruit generally depends on the manner of 
gathering and saving. Carelessness in this way will often 
deduce its value one half. It should be gathered with great 
care, as bruising disfigures it, causes decay, or insipidity. 
In all cases, coldness retards ripening ; heat accelerates it. 
Fruit is often kept back in ice houses for exhibition, or for 
higher prices. In hot weather, ripening is retarded in a cool 
cellar. 

Early apples and pears, and transient fruits, such as 
peaches, cherries, plums, &c, that are to be carried some 
distance to market, must be gathered before wholly ripe, as 
they will ripen on the way. 

Some put winter fruit in cellars, on shelves exposed to the 
air. Others pack them as tight as possible in casks, bins, 
and boxes. These differences in opinion will never be 
reconciled, till people learn the important fact, that there is 
a wide difference in the nature of fruits : one kind ripening 
to perfection on a shelf, while it sweats and becomes poor in 
a tight cask ; another becomes insipid when exposed, but in 
a tight vessel comes to its highest state. 

False notions prevail in regard to keeping fruit perfectly 
dry. We have made experiments in packing it in dry and 
moist saw dust, moss, sand, and various other substances, 
and in the moist state it not only kept better, but the quality 
was finer. Surround moist fruit with dry substances, and 
they will generally extract its juice and life ; yet some kinds 



SO AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

will keep well in this way, as grapes in cotton, dec. We 
have packed fruit in dry sand, bran, saw dust, charcoal 
dust, plaster, cork dust, wheat chaff, straw, &c, and it never 
paid half the trouble. 

Fruits keep best in rather damp cellars, if aired, in cool, 
dry weather. In dry cellars they shrivel. Those usually 
transient have been kept a year, sealed up in tin cans. 
Some French writer recommends putting fruit in a tight 
vessel, enclosing it in another, and filling the intermediate 
space with water. Fruit will generally keep well buried 
in the ground, in a dry soil, surrounded with boards or straw, 
to keep it from the ground, and making a cone of earth over 
it, or a covering of boards, to shed the water. 

Fruit will keep well sealed up in stone jars. Plastering 
around the cover, closely fitted, with lime mortar, or moistened 
plaster, which will set immediately, will answer ; so will sev- 
eral thicknesses of paper tied closely round. Set it in a cool 
place, or cover it water tight, and bury it in a free soil, just 
below freezing, for winter, and still deeper in hot weather. 

Shephart's Patent Fruit and Vegetable Preserver is a cel- 
lar for fruit, surrounded with a wall, inside of which are two 
boardings 6 or 12 inches apart, filled between with charcoal 
dust, tan, or saw dust. Over this is an ice-house, or tight 
roof, and as the ice melts it descends inside the boarding, 
runs to the centre of a tight floor, and then runs off. The 
temperature is equable, and about 2 degrees above freezing. 
We have eaten fruits, of a transient nature, preserved in this 
manner for 6 or 8 months. In similar manner fruits are 
saved in ice-houses in this vicinity. And they are packed 
in ice here, and sent to the warm regions in the four quar- 
ters of the world ; even the evanescent peach has been sent 
in a fine condition to the East Indies. It affords immense 
advantage in preserving fruit stationary, or in transporta- 
tion. Fruits should be kept in a pure atmosphere to prevent 
their imbibing any unpleasant effluvia, and they should be 
kept as cool as possible without freezing. Some fruits 
require to be brought to a milder place, or a warmer room, 
in winter, to ripen them to perfection, and much depends on 
ripening them at the proper period. (Page 000.) By vari- 
ous experiments and inventions, the aid of science, and the 
important advantages of ice, great improvements are making 
in the preservation of fruits, and in the manner of ripening 
them. 



THE APPLE. 



81 



THE APPLE, (Pyrus Malus.) 




All our apples are from 
Europe, and they originated 
from the wild crab of that 
country. In this country are 
several kinds of wild crab . "We 
have seen one in New England 
with small, long, dark red fruit. 
At present nearly all our best 
apples are natives. In the 
Northern, Middle, and "Western 
States, they are perfectly at home, and the finest in the 
world. The hardy kinds flourish in Canada, Nova Scotia, 
and New Brunswick. In the northern part of the Southern 
States this fruit does well, and late kinds flourish in the 
southern part of the Union. 

The apple is a hardy tree, of moderate growth, and low 
spreading form. Some grow rapidly, and form large trees. 
Several in the U. S. are 12 feet in circumference. In a wild 
state, or with moderate, regular growth, they live 100 years, 
or more, but under high culture they often fail at half that 
age. We have had fruit from a tree in Plymouth 200 years 
old. An apple tree brought from England and planted near 
Hartford, Ct., 209 years ago, produced fruit last year. With 
its blossoms of white, tinged with red, or with beautiful fruit, 
the apple is an ornamental tree, and some with fine forms 
and rich dark green foliage, are always so in the gay season. 
In the temperate regions, the apple is not only the most 
valuable fruit, but it is of more importance than all others. 
Other kinds are more luscious and delicate, but these quali- 
ties render them transient, while the apple endures and may 
be had in excellence throughout the year. These remarks 
on the paramount importance of the apple apply to the pres- 
ent state of cultivation. Various other fruits, when duly 
attended to, will assume far more comparative importance. 
Yet the apple, from hardiness, easy production, great excel- 
lence, and being always in use, both fresh and dried, will 
hold a decided superiority over any other species. 

The Uses are various. The fine kinds are excellent for 
the dessert. Besides the pleasure of this luxury, and the 



82 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

nutriment in rich apples, they have an excellent medicinal 
effect. They are gently laxative, and keep the system in a 
good condition. They serve as a healthy repast for children, 
who would be often eating something that is injurious from 
too much nutriment. 

Apples are cooked in various ways, and may at all times 
form one or more dishes on the table. Stewed apples are 
an excellent sauce. Frying in a pan after meat, is a fine 
preparation. They are excellent in dumplings. Sliced 
sweet, or mild apples, in Indian and other puddings, are bet- 
ter than raisins, and so they are in boiled rice, and in warm 
Indian bread. They make fine pies and tarts. A dowdy, or 
big pie, makes a meal for a whole family. 

They may be made into apple sauce and kept a long time. 
Apple butter is a still finer dish. Caudled apples (boiled 
whole in just water enough to cover them, and molasses or 
sugar to sweeten them) are excellent. Suitable kinds make 
fine preserves. Roasted or baked, they are good without 
further preparation. They make an excellent jelly. 

Baked sweet apples and milk is a luxury, excellent food, 
and medicine. We know a gentleman who, 10 years ago, 
was in a hopeless case of consumption, and by long and ex- 
clusive use of this dish, and a little bread for nutriment, and 
lime-water for a condiment, he was cured. As one evidence 
of the severity of this case, and waste of the lungs, one side 
of the breast had sunken in. This diet would cure thousands 
suffering from inflammatory diseases, caused by high, rich, 
constipating food. It is also good for dyspepsia. 

Dried apples keep long, and are a convenient article of 
trade. Some families prepare half a ton in a year. Apple 
molasses is good for tarts, pies, preserves, puddings, flap- 
jacks, &c. We have made excellent molasses by boiling 
down the juice of sweet apples, pressing and boiling as soon 
as possible, after grinding. Another mode is, to put the 
apples into boilers, with just water enough to steam them, and 
when soft, put them into a basket, with a little straw first, 
and press them with a heavy weight, and boil down the 
juice. This molasses is said to be superior. The system is 
rude, and may be improved. 

Apples, under proper feeding, are valuable for all kinds of 
stock, from birds to the largest animals. Mixed with roots 
of various kinds, and cooked with a little meal or bran, they 
make a fine food for fattening or store hogs. They are aLso 



THE APPLE. 



83 



good for sheep, cattle, horses, and even for milch cows. 
Good pork has been made almost wholly from apples, and it 
is a cheap food, where there is not a market for fruit. The 
pomace, in moderate quantities, is good for all kinds of stock. 
When dried it is good for sheep in winter. Cider from 
apples makes excellent vinegar. Its use as a beverage has 
declined under the enlightened march of temperance. Sweet 
apples and mild sour are best for stock as well as for bipeds. 
Besides the large trade in the usual way, apples, in connec- 
tion with ice, are exported from this city to many parts of the 
world, even to the most distant regions and hottest climes. 

Soil and Location. The apple will nourish in almost 
every soil and location, under good management ; but the 
best soil is a tolerably moist, deep loam, inclining to marl or 
clay, with a good portion of vegetable mould. Most tillage, 
suitable for grass, potatoes, cabbages, and where corn will 
well flourish in dry seasons, is better for the apple than dryer 
soils. Rocky and stony lands are preferable, and all the 
small stones should not be removed. A hard pan forms a 
good bottom, but a porous subsoil is unfavorable. 

Some varieties do best on a deep, sandy loam, and early 
varieties will often do better on tolerably dry, warm soils, 
which hasten their maturity, while others nourish best on 
strong moist loam, and late kinds require a cool soil to retard 
their ripening. Although a rather moist soil is best adapted 
to the apple, yet, with good culture, fine crops are raised on 
light soils. If the soil be not naturally suitable, it may be 
improved. (Page 29.) 

Moderate elevations, or undulating lands, or hills, are the 
most suitable locations. In very low, sheltered situations, 
there is more exposure to the extremes of heat and cold, and 
late spring frosts, and early fall freezes ; yet the apple is 
hardy and will generally succeed in such situations. On 
very high locations, especially on the tops of mountains and 
high hills, and some other bleak places, there is too great 
exposure to winds and pelting storms, which may injure the 
blossoms, fruit, and foliage. 

In exposures to the sea, frequent and heavy storms are in- 
jurious, especially to blossoms, and sometimes to tender 
foliage, and more so from salt spray. Though apples do 
well in almost every exposure, they are more sure in their 
products, in a northern, northwestern, or western exposure, 
yet the difference is not material. In a northern climate, 



84 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

southern exposures and warm soils are necessary to bring 
certain kinds to perfection ; and in the south, a cool soil and 
location are necessary to guard against drought and heat, 
and retard ripening. 

Propagation is by grafting and budding desired kinds on 
seedling stocks. Prepare a good tillage soil, by one or two 
years' culture, and good manuring. Root crops are the best 
preparation. Sow pomace, mixing in ashes or lime to neu- 
tralize the acid; or wash out the seed, by beating up the 
pomace in water, and turning it off, as the seeds sink, and 
repeat till the seeds are clean. We have washed out 12 or 
16 quarts in a day. If the seeds dry it w T ill not injure 
them. We have thousands of trees from seeds kept over 
one summer. Sow late in fall, or mix the seeds with three 
times their bulk of moist loam, or fine sand, and put them 
into the cellar, or out of doors, keeping moderately moist till 
spring ; or put them in a box and bury them in the ground 
till spring. 

As to freezing being necessary, it is all a whim. Early in 
winter, we put 3 pecks of seeds into loam, placed half out 
doors, the other half in the cellar, sowed in spring, and all 
came well. If apple or pear seeds are kept dry through the 
winter, they will not vegetate in the spring, but come the 
second season if not disturbed. We find, by experiments, that 
seeds from natural trees make more vigorous stocks than 
those from grafted trees. (Pages 59, 64.) Sow early as pos- 
sible in spring, in drills, 1, 2, or 3 feet apart, according to 
the time the stocks are to stand. Cultivate well. 

Some have splice grafted apple stocks of only one year's 
growth, but it requires a rich soil to send up a vigorous 
shoot. Generally, the stocks, when two years old, sometimes 
three, are set in nursery rows, 4 feet wide, the ,tap root 
being shortened, the trees 10, 12 or 15 inches apart ; and if 
of a good size and vigorous, they may be budded the same 
season ; but if small and slow growing, better let them re- 
main another season. A strong stock is absolutely neces- 
sary to send up a shoot 4, 5, or 6 feet high the first season, 
and the next it will put out branches, and then be fit to set as 
a standard. 

Stocks £ an inch or more in diameter, are grafted at the 
ground, and they soon produce a good tree. When budding 
fails, the stocks are generally grafted the next spring, and 
come on with those that were budded. Some graft or bud 



THE APPLE. S5 

without transplanting the stocks, but this mode does not form 
so fine roots, the tap root being long and the laterals short. 
When good stocks can be obtained from § of an inch to an 
inch in diameter, good trees can be shortly produced by 
grafting low, and setting them so as to cover the stock and 
half the scion. (Page 34.) 

Planting. We have given particular directions for trans- 
planting, on page 47. As to the distance between apple 
trees, much depends on circumstances. A person wanting 
many kinds on a small space should set thick and shorten-in 
the limbs, as they interfere, and in due time, cut away the 
poorest trees. In general orchard culture, 30 or 33 feet is a 
good distance. Some set them 40 feet apart, but it allows 
only about 28 trees to the acre, and it will be a long time, 
if ever, before they cover the land. When set 2 rods apart, 
peach, plum or cherry trees may be set between, and in most 
cases these trees will flourish, bear, and fail, before the apple 
trees will need the room. (Page 27.) 

If some of the intermediate trees last long, and are fruit- 
ful, give them a chance, or prefer the most profitable, cutting 
away the limbs of the poorest where they interfere. In de- 
voting land wholly to the apple, we would put 100 trees on 
an acre, (almost 21 feet apart,) and they would bear many 
years before interfering, and then cut away the poorest 
trees. 

In this way, trees will produce good crops 12, 15, or 20 
years, without interference, and the cultivator have the fruit 
of 100, instead of 28 trees, when 40 feet apart, or 40 trees 
when 2 rods apart. A farmer, when stocking his lands, and 
beginning with calves, might as well begin with only the 
number his lands would sustain of full grown animals, as for 
*the cultivator to set only as many trees as will have room 
when of a full size. 

Culture and Manure. Our general remarks on culture, 
(page 51,) apply to apple trees. The land should be kept in 
good condition by culture and manure. Merely stirring the 
earth is beneficial. Thorough culture and good manuring 
of the apple tree will amply repay in abundant and excellent 
crops. A well cultivated and judiciously managed orchard, 
will produce 3 or 4 times the amount of one that is under 
poor management or neglected. 

What we have said on manure, (page 53,) will apply to 
the apple. The following table shows the inorganic matters 



86 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



in the apple, which should be applied liberally. Supply pot- 
ash in wood-ashes ; soda, in common salt ; phosphate of 
lime in bones ; carbonic acid in charcoal, and manure from 
animals ; lime in lime, old plaster, chalk, bones, hair, or horn 
shavings ; magnesia in this salt, or magnesian lime. The 
apple requires much lime and potash, especially on old or- 
chards, or where several crops of nursery trees are raised on 
the same land. 

Analysis of the Ash of the Apple. 



Potash, 

Soda, 

Chloride of sodium, . 
Sulphate of lime, . . 
Phosphate of peroxide ) 

iron, ) 

Phosphate of lime, . . 
Phosphate of magnesia, 
Carbonic acid, . . . 

Lime, 

Magnesia, 

Silica, 

Soluble silica, .... 
Organic matter, . . . 



Sap wood. 


Heart wood. 


Bark of the trunk. 


16.19 


6.620 


4.930 


3.11 


7.935 


3.285 


0.42 


0.210 


0.540 


0.05 


0.526 


0.637 


0.80 


0.500 


0.375 


17.50 


5.210 


2.425 


0.20 


0.190 




29.10 


36.275 


44.830 


18.63 


37.019 


51.578 


8.40 


6.900 


0.150 


0.85 


0.400 


0.200 


0.80 


0.300 


0.400 


4.60 


2.450 


2.100 


100.65 


104.535 


111.450 



Pruning. (See page 57.) The apple requires moderate 
pruning only. Much care is necessary to give the tree 
proper form, height, and direction, in its early stages. If 
limbs interfere, cut away the poorest, and those that are de- 
caying. Thin out very compact tops. When the branches 
are very long and scattering, like the Seaver Sweet, cut them 
off a few feet from the top, that they may spread and form 
a closer head. The apple bears on the spurs and shoots of 
the last and previous years' growth. 

Bearing Years. Most apple trees bear full every other 
year, and few or none in intermediate years. Some bear 
twice or thrice as much one year as they do the next ; and a 
few bear every year, nearly alike. Trie cause assigned for 
alternate bearing, is that the tree becomes exhausted from a 
heavy crop, and needs rest and renovation of its powers. 



THE APPLE. 87 

But analogy shows that this is no reason, for some species 
of trees and shrubs bear abundantly every year, and gener- 
ally if an apple tree produces a little fruit when it is not the 
bearing year, the fruit is small and knurly, though the tree 
is in full vigor. 

We first offered to the public the important fact that most 
of our varieties of apples,in N. England, natural and grafted, 
produce large crops in even years ; 1846, '48, and '50, if the 
season be favorable, and light crops in odd years — 1845, 
'47, '49. Like all new things, this view has been opposed 
and ridiculed, but never met fairly with facts. We have 
observed it for 30 years, and the same orchards that bore 
profusely in even, and sparingly in odd years, in our boy- 
hood, still continue the same. These important facts cannot 
be laughed down, nor upset by false reasoning. On the con- 
trary, numerous correct observers are confirming what we 
have said. We never knew a great crop in odd years, nor 
a small crop in even years, though unfavorable weather may 
cut off the crop in some places, as on the seaboard in 1846, 
and some sections in 1848. Mr. J. 0. Wellington, of West 
Cambridge, who cultivates fruit extensively, raised 1100 bar- 
rels of apples in an even year, the next year only 300 ; again 
1500 in an even year, and only 500 the next. As an evi- 
dence that this was generally the case, he sold, in an even 
year, at $1.50 per barrel, in an odd year at $3.00. 

Yet some trees and some orchards, and in some neighbor- 
hoods, most of the trees, bear in odd years. 

The Baldwin, Greening, Danvers Winter Sweet, Porter, 
Jewett's Red, Hubbardston Nonsuch, and many other prom- 
inent kinds, bear mostly in even years. Correct knowledge 
on this point may be turned to advantage, by cultivating 
constant bearers, or more of those few varieties that bear 
in odd years. By cutting off all the blossoms in the bearing 
years, it will change ; but after all that has been said on this 
subject, but little has been done in this way, as it is much 
trouble ; and we believe that a tree will gradually get back 
to its natural habits. It is our opinion that in Middle and 
Western New York, the largest crops, if any difference, are 
in odd years. 

Insects. 

Numerous insects attack the apple in wood, bark, leaf and 
fruit ; yet with diligent and skilful warfare, the cultivator 



88 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




Perfect state. 



will be victorious ; but with neglect, the insects will prevail, 
and his labor will be lost. See remarks on insects generally, 
and their destruction. (Page 73.) 

The Apple Tree Borer attacks the apple tree, quince, 
mountain ash, locust, white ash, haw- 
thorn, and various other species of 
thorn, and aronias, and is very de- 
structive. It is from the larva of the 
two-striped saperda, (saperda bivit- 
tati.) The upper part of the body of 
the perfect insect is marked with two 
longitudinal white stripes, among 
others of a light brown, while the face, 
antenna?, the under side of the body 
and legs are white. The size is 
shown in the figure. 

This beetle comes forth from the tree in June, during the 
night, flying from tree to tree for food, or companions. In 
day time it rests among leaves, on which it feeds. In June, 
July, or early in Aug., it deposits eggs upon the bark of the 
tree, generally at or near the ground. Mr. Buckminster, 
editor of the Massachusetts Ploughman, who has given great 
attention to this subject, says she lays ten eggs at a litter, of 

the size of a common pin head, arranged thus : •**••* 
The larva or young borers, from the eggs, are fleshy, round, 
whitish grubs, without legs, tapering a little from the first 
ring. The head is small, horny, and brownish. 

This grub eats through the bark, where it remains the 
first winter. The next season it penetrates the wood, throw- 
ing out its dust or cuttings, by which it may be traced, 
generally ascending, and boring deeper into the tree. 
Its whole passage, is, usually, 
about 12 or 15 inches. The 
third season, nearly tw r o years 
from its entrance, the full sized 
borer, as shown in the figure, 
approaches the surface of the Full groicn Borer. 

tree, when it undergoes its final transformation, and leaves 
the tree, as we have already stated. Those who say it re- 
mains three years in the tree, reckon the year of its ingress 
and egress. 

Rarely the borer gets off the track and descends in the tree. 




THE APPLE. 89 

Sometimes it enters the trunk several feet above the ground, 
and seldom it penetrates the limbs. 

Remedy. The modes for destroying borers, after they have 
penetrated the tree, are various; such as killing them by 
running a piece of wire or whalebone into the hole ; apply- 
ing a lighted brimstone match to the entrance, or putting 
some pieces of camphor or other offensive matter into it, and 
plugging it up ; or cutting the borers out with a chisel or 
gouge. 

Prevention is better. Keep the trees smooth and well 
washed, that insects may have no harbor. Wash them in 
June, July, and Aug., with a solution of potash, (page 69,) 
or a rather strong lye of wood ashes ; or with 2 quarts of soft 
soap or whale-oil soap, and ^ of a pound of sulphur to 2 gal- 
lons of water, which is still better for adding camphorated 
spirit, assafcetida, tobacco, hen manure, and other offensive 
matters, and a little clay to make it adhesive. 

Mr. Buckminster recommends washing the trees with a 
lye of wood ashes, or a solution of potash, strong enough to 
bear up an egg, with a view of destroying the eggs or young 
larva. Horace Collamore, Esq., of Pembroke, a skilful agri- 
culturist and accurate observer, states in the Ploughman, 
that in an orchard much infested with borers, he prevented 
their further depredation, by washing his trees with 2 quarts 
of soft-soap, and one fourth of a pound of sulphur, to a pail- 
ful of water. He prefers this wash to potash water, which is 
liable to injure young trees, if very strong. 

Sometimes ashes and other offensive matters, laid around 
the tree, serve as a protection. The best way is to keep 
grass and weeds cleared from the tree, that it may be ex- 
posed ; scrape smooth, that it may have no shelter for its 
eggs, and then wash the tree often with substances offensive 
and destructive to insects ; in addition examine the trees fre- 
quently, and if there be any borers, kill them before they 
have done any damage, and while it is an easy task. One 
stitch in time saves ninety-nine. 

Apple-Worm op. Codling-Moth (Corpocapsa pomonella) was 
imported from Europe. It is numerous in New England, 
and on the seaboard generally, and becoming more common 
in the interior of the Middle States. It is a beautiful moth, 
the head and thorax brown, mingled with grey ; the fore 
wings seem like watered silk, crossed by numerous grey and 
brown lines, near the hind angle a large, oval, dark brown 
8* 



90 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



spot, with edges of copper color. The hind wings and abdo- 
men are light yellowish brown. During the latter part of 
June and July, these moths lay their eggs in the eye or 
blossom end of apples, sometimes in summer pears. They 
hatch in a few days, and the worm eats into the apples, and 
in a few weeks attains its full growth. The apples ripen and 
fall prematurely. 

Apple Worms in different stages. 




a The young larva, or worm, in a small apple, b The full grown worm. 
cThe same, greatly magnified. d'The cocoon, e The pupa or chrysalis 
state, f The perfect insect, the usual size, g The same, greatly mag- 
nified, i, h Passage of the worm in the fruit, j Larva or worm, in the 
apple, k Place of egress. 

Soon after the apple falls, and sometimes before, the worm 
Crawls into the crevices of the tree, or other places, spins a 
cocoon of a white delicate web, where it remains till the next 
season. It is supposed that some come out soon and produce 
a second generation the same season. 

Remedy. Pick up the fruit as fast as it falls, and destroy 
the worms, or let hogs run in the orchard and eat the fallen 
fruit. Lay old cloths in the crotches and around trees, and 
many will crawl into them, and may be caught. By scrap- 
ing off the loose bark in spring, many will be destroyed. 

The Canker-Worm (A?iisoptery pometaria) is most, com- 



THE APPLE. 



91 




Female. 



mon in N. England, and on the sea-coast. The parents, or 
moths, are represented in the cuts. They generally begin to 
come out of the ground in March, early or late, according to 
the season, and continue for several weeks. Sometimes 
they begin to rise in Oct., and 
continue at intervals through the 
winter, when the weather is warm 
and the ground bare. They make 
for the tree, the female crawling 
up the trunk, and the male flying. 
They soon pair, and the female 
lays 60 or 100 eggs, some in clus- 
ters, others scattered, glued to the 
tree with water-proof varnish, in 
the crotches, between the bud and 
twig, in moss or other convenient 
places, sometimes even on fences. 
The eggs hatch as the foliage ex- 
pands, on which the worms feed 
voraciously, with most destructive effects, eating also the 
blossoms and tender fruit, often destroying the produce of ex- 
tensive orchards, even year after year, till the trees are nearly 
killed. In about 4 or 5 weeks from hatching, they leave the 
tree, some descending on the trunk, others letting themselves 
down by their threads, and burrow in the ground several inches 
deep, where they remain until the time of their ascension, as 
above named. The worms fully grown are about an inch 
long, of slim form, have 6 fore and 4 hind legs. They are 
of various colors, changing at different ages, and they may 
be of different varieties. The apple and elm are most sub- 
ject to their depredations. They also attack cherry, plum, 
and lime trees. 

Remedies. Dry ashes or fresh slacked lime thrown on the 
tree when the dew is on, will do some good, but many will 
take shelter under the leaves. One pound of whale oil soap 
to 4 gallons of water, is effectual. (Page 73.) On jarring 
the limbs gently, they will spin down, and may be killed 
where the surface is smooth. 

As it is difficult to destroy the worms, it is best to prevent 
the ascension of the female moth. The most common mode 
is to put canvass or thick paper (old leather is better) around 
trees and apply tar to it. Sometimes this must be renewed 
every day, when they appear in multitudes. A few hours' 



92 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

drying wind or drizzly rain will harden the tar. so that they 
can pass over it. Mix train oil with the tar to prevent this. 
When in crowds, the foremost go on to the tar and form a 
bridge, over which the others pass. India rubber dissolved 
in whale oil, over the fire, will last a long time without re- 
newing, and is equally as effectual as tar. Cut a semi-circle 
from two pieces of board, a little larger than the tree ; put 
them on as a collar, fastening them at top with hasps or 
cleats with screws ; stuff sea-weed, soft hay, rags, wool, or tow 
between the boards and tree. Underneath this collar apply 
tar, or India rubber and oil. Mr. F. Dana, Roxbury, in the 
Ploughman, recommends a band of zinc around the boards, 
extending 1£ inch below, and varnished with shellac, to make 
it slippery, or glass on the under side. 

Burn India rubber, and a viscid substance will fall, that 
will long retain its sticking property. This may be applied 
directly to the tree, or under a collar. 

A writer in the Iowa Farmer tied bundles of straw around 
his trees, with a single band, 2\ feet from the ground, letting 
the ends of the straw stand out from the tree. The worms 
were caught in the straw, and he gently pounded the straw, 
below the bands, with a covered maul, and he killed thou- 
sands. When the season was over, he burnt the straw, and 
applied lye to the trunks and branches. This saved 700 
trees, and he had no more trouble. 

It is said that orchards pastured by sheep are never injured 
by canker-worms. As sheep are around the trees, the oily 
matter from the wool probably has a favorable effect. 

American Tent Caterpillar, (Clisiocampa Americana.) 
This insect is so common, that it is called the 
caterpillar. It is indigenous, and abounds 
on the wild cherry. It is the most destruc- 
tive of all insects to the apple and cherry, if 
neglected, yet easily destroyed. The eggs, 
as represented in the cut, in clusters of sev- 
eral hundreds, hatch when trees put forth 
their tender foliage, on which the larva feed, 
and when numerous they defoliate the whole 
tree. The fruit fails, the tree is stinted, and 
a mark of reproach to the negligent owner. 
These caterpillars make a web for a shelter, 
and are at home morning, noon, and evening, 
and at all times in stormv weather. 




THE APPLE. 93 

When full grown, this insect is about two inches long, the 
head black, the body party-colored. In New England, it 
begins to wander from the tree in June, gets into a crevice, 
makes a cocoon of loose silk, remains 15 or 16 days in the 
pupa or chrysalis state, then bursts its web, and comes forth 
a winged miller, of a dusty brownish color, flying about in 
great numbers in July, entering houses by night, and laying 
eggs on cherry and apple trees. 

The best remedy is to gather the clusters of eggs, which 
are near the end of the young shoots, and generally on the 
lower branches, in autumn, winter, or early spring. If not 
done, the nest may be seen like a spider's web, and should 
be destroyed immediately, by crushing the young worms, or 
by applying whale oil soap in water, as for canker-worms, or 
water of ammonia in a sponge or rag. Some burn them 
with spirits of turpentine or sulphur. Strong tobacco water 
applied is good. With Pickering's brush, or a mop of rags 
on a pole, they may be rubbed to death, or taken down with 
the web and crushed. 

Bark-Louse (a species of cocus) is a pearly, scale-like sub- 
stance, on the bodies of young apple trees, the limbs of older 
trees, and less frequently on pear trees. They stint the 
growth. Each cell contains many eggs ; they generally 
hatch in May and June. The young are very small, nearly 
white, oval. 

Remedies. Use 1 part of soft soap with 4 of water, and a 
little fresh slacked lime ; or a solution of 1 lb. potash to 2 
gallons of water. Apply about the first of June. A lye of 
wood ashes is good. 

American Blight (aphis lanigera) is a false name, as it 
was first known in Europe. It is very destructive in Eng- 
land; much less so here. The eggs, imperceptibly small, 
are enveloped in a cotton-like substance, and deposited in 
chinks and crotches, at or near the ground. When the young 
are hatched in spring, they appear like specks of mould ; the 
grown insect is one tenth of an inch long, covered with white 
woolly hair. They feed on the sap ; have no wings, but are 
wafted by their down from tree to tree. They puncture the 
bark, produce warts, the leaves fall, the branch fades, the 
disease spreads, and the tree dies. As a remedy, apply a 
solution of whale-oil soap, or lime wash. The apple tree is 
most liable to its effects. 

Cider is valuable for vinegar, though the temperance re- 



94 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

form has almost banished it as a beverage. The farmer no 
longer toils hard in fall to fill his cellar with cider, nor works 
hard all winter to drink it. Yet cider is valuable for vinegar. 
Apples for cider are better for growing exposed to sun and 
air ; hence those from a young orchard are best. Those not 
very juicy make the strongest cider. The Harrison and 
other fine cider apples of New Jersey, produce about 1 barrel 
to 10 bushels. 

Apples for cider should be well ripened, and carefully 
picked, free from stems and decayed fruit. They should 
lie in a dry situation till partially mellowed, but ground be- 
fore any decay. After grinding, let the pomace lie in the 
juice, exposed to the air, and stirring may be necessary to 
this purpose, from 12 to 24 hours, during which time the 
saccharine fermentation will greatly improve the liquor. 

In all the operations, strict neatness should be observed, 
and no water used, not even to wet the straw. The first and 
last running from the cheese is not so good as the middle. 
Press out soon, and put into a cool cellar before the vinous 
fermentation takes place, straining the liquor carefully, and 
bunging it upas closely as it will bear without bursting the 
cask, that the fermentation may be moderate, which will give 
body and strength to the cider. Mustard seed, charcoal, salt- 
petre, and other substances, moderate fermentation. The 
following is a good anti-ferment for cider, wine, &c. Plaster 
of Paris 1 part, mustard seed 2 parts. Use half a pint to a 
barrel. 

Gathering and Preserving. The fruit is of a finer qual- 
ity for remaining on the tree till well ripened, though it will 
often keep better by gathering before quite ripe. As to 
season, in this climate, some in warm situations gather the 
last of Sept., while many commence Oct. 1st, and continue 
through the month. In this climate, there is danger of injury 
from hard frosts late in October, and sometimes earlier. 

Gather apples in dry weather, and pick winter fruit, and 
all dessert fruit, by hand, and handle it in every way with 
care, to prevent bruising. Do not let it lie out in heaps ex- 
posed to the sun and air, nor stand in barrels in the sun, as 
it will lose its life. In packing in barrels, shake down gently, 
and head up full, pressing the head gently on the fruit, that 
it may not shake and bruise in moving. Apples in barrels 
are generally laid in an open shed, or covered up under trees, 
or on the backside of a building, where they remain till there 



THE ArPLE. 95 

is danger of injury from frost, (which requires a degree of 
cold sufficient to form ice nearly half a.n inch thick,) when 
they are put into a cellar, which should be well aired on the 
north in cool dry weather, even occasionally in winter, when 
not so cold as to freeze ; and when the wind is at the south, 
the cellar should be shut close, and better for keeping it dark 
at all times when not open to admit cool air. The nearer the 
fruit is kept to the freezing point, the better. It will not gen- 
erally freeze unless the temperature is 5 to 7 degrees below 
32 degrees, or the freezing of water. Apples headed up in 
close barrels will bear a frost 10 or 12 degrees below the 
freezing point. 

With a good, cool, well aired cellar, it is much better to put 
the apples into the cellar as soon as gathered. In packing 
apples for exportation, or nice and tender fruit for transpor- 
tation, it is better to wrap each fruit in paper : and in some 
cases, for perfect security, it is necessary to pack in bran, 
saw-dust, cotton, chaff, &cc. This saves from bruising, and 
in cold weather prevents freezing. 

The Varieties are innumerable. In many parts of the 
country, large orchards were set and allowed to produce 
natural fruit ; hence the great variety and excellence of our 
apples, combining almost every good quality in tree and 
fruit. We have made an estimate that in the State of Maine, 
more than 2,000,000 of varieties have been produced ; and 
hundreds and even thousands of kinds may be found there 
superior to many recommended in fruit books. 

In treating of apples, we must notice some not among the 
best, as they have gained a name above their merits, and a 
caution is necessary ; new and better kinds should take their 
place. For a good apple, particularly for the market, we 
need a combination of the following fine properties : good 
grower, good bearer, fruit large, handsome, and of excellent 
quality. Some not hardly first-rate are profitable for the 
market, as they sell from their size and beauty, and tolerable 
quality. For the private garden, quality is of great impor- 
tance ; yet appearance, growth, and bearing, are important 
considerations also. With the amateur, quality is the main 
thing, and appearance next, while growth and bearing are of 
less regard. 

A dessert apple should be of good size, handsome form, 
beautiful color, fair appearance, tender, crisp, juicy, and of a 
rich, fine flavor. Cooking apples should be rather large, fair, 



96 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

and of an even surface. Their qualities are various for 
different purposes. Some brisk, acid apples, that are poor 
for the dessert, are excellent for the kitchen. Some mild des- 
sert apples are among the best for cooking ; for this purpose 
some sweet apples rank high. A few will not cook well, but 
retain their form and remain hard after this process. Some 
cook quickly and form a jelly, which is desirable for soma 
purposes, but not for others. The best sweet apples for milk, 
are those that bake perfectly soft, yet retain their form. 
Those that are hard after baked, and those in the opposite 
extreme, that fall down flat from their own weight, and mix 
up with the milk, like jelly, are not so good. 

Many apples are adapted to general culture throughout 
the country, and some are suited to various soils as well as 
climates. Others flourish only in particular locations and 
climates. Some seem adapted to general sections only, as to 
the North, the Middle Region, the West or the South. But 
some generally cultivated in one of these sections have not 
been fairly tested in others. With thorough trial of all our 
best apples, giving them suitable situations and manage- 
ment, we should find, in many cases, that the cultivation of 
different fruits in different sections is owing in part to the 
partiality and convenience of the cultivator, as well as to the 
fruit. We make these remarks to encourage the fair trial 
of our best fruits throughout the land. We have endeavored 
to discriminate with those fruits that have been extensively 
tried, and to show in what regions others are mostly culti- 
vated, and the origin of new kinds. 

We have so many fine native apples that but few foreign 
kinds are worthy of attention. The Red Astrachan and 
Gravenstein are the only foreign apples that are popular 
throughout the country. A few others are valued highly in 
some sections. 

Dr. Holmes, editor of the Maine Farmer, and Secretary 
of the Maine Pomological Society, has politely furnished us 
with outlines and descriptions of 7 apples which the conven- 
tion sat in judgment on, and recommended as the best 
native apples of that State that had come under their exam- 
ination. To such we have added, M. P. Society. 

We have put the time of ripening a little earlier, to corre- 
spond with the time in this State, according to our general 
svstem. 



SUMMER APPLES. 



97 



Summer Apples. 

Late summer apples here are early fall fruit in Me., N. H., 
Vt., &c. 

1. White Juneating, Juneating Bracken. Small, flattish- 
round, pale yellow, sometimes a faint blush : flesh white, 
crisp and pleasant. Early in July; great bearer. An old 
foreign variety, popular in some sections for its earliness. 



C\— -^ 




2. Early Harvest. Yellow Harvest. 
Medial ; flattish-round ; yellow ; tender, 
very juicy, of a brisk sub-acid flavor. 
Excellent for cooking and eating. 15th 
July to 10th Aug. j cracks and falls pre- 
maturely. In the Middle States, and some 
parts of the West, it is the finest very 
early apple. It is fine here in a very 
few favorable locations, but often fails 
under good culture where Red Astra- 
chan looks fine. 



wy'X^ 



3. Summer Sweet. Medial; roundish; clear yellow; 
fme, pleasant sweet apple, and a great favorite in many 
sections of 0. From Ct. Hovey thinks it is the High Top 
Sweeting of Plymouth Co., Ms. July 20 to Aug. 10. 

4. Red Shropshirevine. Medial ; roundish ; dull red ; ten- 
der, rather dry, mild, aromatic. July 25 to Aug. 15. The 
sun kills the bark, and the fruit falls and rots quickly. It does 
better further North ; good grower. Foreign. 

5. Striped Shropshirevine, Curtis sEarly Stripe. Small; 
oblong-conical; pale yellow, striped with bright red; crisp, 
juicy, and pleasant. July 25 to Aug. 15. Too small for 
market. A poor scraggy grower. 

9 



98 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



6. River. Medial ; flattish ; yellow, much red in stripes ; 
tender, juicy ; pleasant sub-acid. Fine cooking and eating. 
Last of July and into Aug. Good grower; poor bearer. 
Cracks, blasts, and falls. Sometimes very good. 



I 



7. Red Astrachan. Large medial ; flat- 
tish-round ; greenish-yellow, ground mostly 
bright crimson in the sun, russet around the 
stem, light specks, white bloom ; stem me- 
dial, in a deep broad cavity ; calyx large, 
open, in a broad, shallow basin ; flesh pure 
white, very tender, crisp, pleasant, rich, sub- 
acid flavor. Fine for cooking ; pretty good, 
but rather acid for the table, and grows dry 
soon. July 25 to Aug. 15. Hardy, vigor- 
ous, and productive. Adapted to various 
soils and climates. More fair and promis- 
ing in New England than most other early 
apples. Origin, Sweden. 



8. Early Red Margaret, Red Juneating. Rather small ; 
roundish-ovate ; greenish yellow, striped with dark red ; stem 
short, stout ; calyx in a shallow basin ; flesh white, rather 
acid, pleasant. Last of July and first of Aug. Moderate 
bearer. English origin. 

9. Tucker. Large medial ; flattish-round ; greenish yel- 
low, crisp, juicy, acid. Excellent for cooking. July 25 to 
Aug. 20. Great grower, good bearer. East Bridgewater. 

10. Red Quarrenden, Devonshire Quarrenden. Small me- 
dial ; flattish-round ; deep crimson in the sun, greenish ground 
in the shade ; flesh crisp, juicy, sub-acid, and pleasant. Aug. 
15 to last Sept Popular in some sections. Foreign. 



SUMMER APPLES. 99 



11. Cole's Quince. Large, to very large; 
flattish-conical ; ribbed ; bright yellow, seldom 
a brown cheek, stem short, in a deep cavity ; 
calyx large, in a deep basin ; flesh when first 
ripe, firm, juicy, pleasant acid, and first-rate 
for cooking. When very mellow, remarkably 
tender, of a mild, rich, high quince flavor and 
aroma. When in perfection we have never 
seen its superior. July to Sept. Cooking early 
in July. A good grower. Good and constant 
bearer. Requires a strong soil. Flourishes in 
the North ; disseminated but not fruited in other 
regions. Raised by the late Capt. Henry Cole, 
(father of the author,) Cornish, Me. 



12. Bevan, Beva?i , s Favorite. Medial ; flattish ; yellow, 
striped with bright red ; flesh white, juicy, crisp, sprightly, 
very pleasant ; similar to Summer Pearmain. and twice as 
productive. Last of July and Aug. Very vigorous, great 
bearer. Kirtland says, one of the best early apples. We are 
indebted to Samuel Reeves, Esq., a distinguished fruit-grow- 
er, of Salem, N. J., the place of its origin, for an account of 
this new fruit. 

13. Sweet Bough, August Sweeting, Bough, Yellow Bough. 
Large ; roundish-conical ; smooth, greenish-yellow ; stem 
rather slender, in a deep narrow cavity ; calyx medial, deeply 
sunk ; flesh whitish, very tender, juicy, of a rich, sprightly, 
saccharine flavor. During Aug. Good grower, good and 
constant bearer. Throughout the country the best early 
sweet apple known. Hardy, and adapted to various climates 
and soils. Native. 



100 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



14. Williams, Williams's Favorite, Wil- 
liams's Early Red. Large, oblong-ovate ; 
bright red; dark red in the sun; little 
pale-yellow in the shade ; stalk slender. § 
an inch long, in a very slight cavity ; calyx 
closed, in a narrow basin ; flesh yellowish- 
white, fine, mild, pleasant, and excellent. 
During August. Moderate grower, good 
bearer. Requires a strong moist soil, and 
high culture, to bring the fruit to perfec- 
tion, and then it is splendid, and the most 
salable apple of its time in the Boston 
market. We have seen one tree on 
the farm of Mr. J. D. Wellington, West 
Cambridge, Ms., that produced $40 worth 
at one crop. Origin, Roxbury, Ms. Intro- 
duced by A. D. Williams, Esq. 



15. Foundling, Groton, Shirley. Large; flattish-round ; 
ribbed ; greenish-yellow, mostly covered with bright red : 
stem medial, very deeply sunken ; calyx large, open, in a 
narrow, very deep basin ; flesh yellowish-white, quite juicy, 
of a sprightly, sub-acid, aromatic flavor. Aug. and Sept. 
Moderate grower, good bearer. One of the handsomest and 
best. New. Origin, Groton. 

16. Oslin. Rather small ; flattish ; greenish yellow ; flesh 
firm, crisp, of a spicy, aromatic flavor. Aug. Scotch. 



SUMMER APPLES. 



101 



17. Summer Rose. Small ; roundish ; pale yellow, striped 
and marbled with red ; tender, sprightly, pleasant flavor. 
Later than Early Harvest; smaller and less productive. 
Adapted to the private garden, for which it is fine. Aug. 




18. Early Strawberry, Red Juneating, falsely Am. Red 
Juneating. Small ; roundish, conical ; smooth, yellowish- 
white ground, nearly covered with brilliant red ; stem long, 
slender, deep cavity ; small basin ; flesh white, tinged with 
red next the skin ; very tender, of a slight acid, sprightly, 
aromatic flavor. Aug. Moderate grower, good bearer. Much 
cultivated in N. Y. Rather small for the market. Origin, 
near N. Y. city. 

19. Benoni. Medial ; roundish ; deep bright red ; stem 
short, slender, deep narrow cavity ; calyx open, in a deep, 
narrow basin ; flesh yellow, tender, crisp, juicy, of a rich, 
slight acid, and excellent flavor. Aug. 10 to Sept. 10. Good 
grower, great bearer. Little apt to blast. First-rate quality ; 

9* 



102 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



better for the private garden ; small for market. Wight 
says one of the best. Origin, Dedham, Ms. 

20. Dutchess of Oldenburgh. Medial ; roundish ; yellow ; 
red stripes ; faint bloom ; tender, juicy, sprightly acid flavor. 
Excellent only for cooking. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. 
Origin, Russia. 

21. Spice Sweet. Large ; flat ; smooth, pale yellow ; very 
tender, sweet, and excellent. 15 Aug. into Sept. Origin, 
farm of Mr. Jacob Deane, a noted fruit-grower of Mansfield, 
Ms. 

22. Monamet Sweeting. Large medial; flattish ; yellow 
ground, mostly bright, unbroken red, russet around the stem 
and on the base ; stem medial, deep cavity ; calyx large, in 
narrow basin ; flesh whitish, tender, rich, and very sweet. 
20 Aug. to 10 Sept. Origin, Plymouth, Ms. New. 



..... f...^ 

\ / / / Sweeting. % * % 




23. Golden Sweet, Orange Sweet. Large medial ; round j 
pale yellow ; stem an inch, rather slender, in a narrow, deep 



SUMMER APPLES. 103 

cavity ; calyx closed, in medial cavity ; flesh tender, of very 
sweet, rich, and excellent flavor. Latter part of Aug. and 
Sept. A good grower and great bearer. Origin, Ct. There 
has long been known in N. England another Orange Sweet, 
larger, roundish conical, yellow, ripens same time ; excellent, 
but poor bearer. 

24. Sine-Qua-Non. Medial ; roundish-ovate ; greenish- 
yellow ; very tender; juicy, sprightly, sub-acid, and excel- 
lent flavor ; slow, poor grower, good bearer. 20th to last of 
Aug. First-rate. Origin, Long Island. 

25. Summer Queen. Large medial ; flattish conical ; yel- 
low, striped with red ; tender, crisp, lively aromatic flavor. 
Latter part of Aug. Excellent for cooking; pretty good for 
the table. Best on sandy soil. 

26. Sops of Wine. Small ; flattish-conical ; crimson, dark- 
er in the sun ; crisp, juicy, pleasant, sub-acid. Last of Aug. 
and Sept. Beautiful, but neither excellent nor profitable. 
Foreign. 

27. Belzer. Medial; flattish-round ; yellow, striped with 
red ; flesh white, fine, tender, juicy, sub-acid, and good. Aug. 
1st to 15th, in Ohio. Here, about last of Aug. Origin, Ohio. 
From F. S. Humrickhouse, Coshocton Co., 0., in Hovey's 
Magazine. 

28. American Summer Pearmain, Early Summer Pear- 
main, Summer Pear main. Medial; roundish ; yellow, mostly 
marked with red ; stem an inch long, in a deep cavity ; calyx 
large, open ; flesh very fine, tender, rich, aromatic. First 
quality. Last of Aug. and Sept. Adapted to light soils. 
Slow grower, moderate bearer, apt to crack. Popular in 
some parts of N. J., and the West. Kirtland says, " first- 
rate." Origin, N. J. This is the true. Another apple called 
by this name is similar in quality, more flat, more vigorous, 
earlier, which may be the Be van. 

Fall Apples. 

Early Fall Apples here, to which our time of maturity 
applies, are late summer apples in the latitude of N. J., Pa., 
0., la., 111., &c. 

29. Richardson. Large; roundish, inclining to conical; 
smooth ; green, mostly covered with red, bright in the sun, 
numerous large light specks ; stem two thirds of an inch long, 
rather stout, in a broad, deep cavity ; calyx large, open, in a 
narrow, deep basin ; flesh greenish-white, remarkably tender, 



104 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

juicy, of a rich, delicious, and almost saccharine flavor. Good 
specimens are of the highest order. Those in the shade 
want character. We find this to be a good grower, and the 
original tree, on the farm of Mr. Ebenezer Richardson, Pep- 
perell, Ms., is called a good bearer. Last of Aug. and Sept. 

30. Summer Bellflower. Rather large ; roundish-ob- 
long ; clear yellow, rarely a faint orange blush ; stem an 
inch long, stout at the lower end, in a shallow cavity ; calyx 
closed, in a slightly five-sided basin ; flesh white, fine, ten- 
der, of an excellent, rich, sub-acid flavor, of the first qual- 
ity. A rapid grower and good bearer. Downing, whom we 
copy, thinks it is of superior flavor to Porter or Williams. 
Last of Aug. to last of Sept. By Mr. John R. Comstock, 
Washington, N. Y., from a seed of Esopus Spitzenberg. 

31. Bars. Rather large; round; pale yellow ground; 
marbled and nearly covered with red ; few russety spots ; 
stem long, slender, in a narrow, deep cavity ; calyx large, 
open, in a broad, shallow furrowed basin ; flesh whitish, re- 
markably tender, almost melting, juicy, of a rich, mild, 
pleasant flavor. Aug. 25 to Sept. 20. We find it perfectly 
hardy in Maine, very vigorous, and great and constant 
bearer. The original tree (in Greenwich, R. I.) is 7 feet 
round, and bore 60 bushels in one year. Not well tested 
elsewhere. 

32. Grand Sachem. Very large; roundish-flat; dark red; 
flesh white, coarse, dry, poor. Sept. 

33. Lyman's Large Summer. Very large ; flattish-round ; 
pale yellow ; tender, sub-acid, rich, high flavor. Sept. Mod- 
erate bearer. By S. Lyman, Manchester, Ct. 

34. Winthrop Greening, Lincoln Pippin, Howe Apple. 
Large ; golden yellow, with slight russet, tinge of red in the 
sun ; flesh tender, crisp, very juicy, of a sprightly, mildly 
tart, luscious flavor. Sept. Origin, Winthrop, Me. 

35. Early Pennock. Very large ; flattish-conical ; red, 
with a little pale yellow ; stem very short, stout, in a very 
large cavity ; basin large ; flesh yellow, of a fine, sub-acid 
flavor. Second rate eating, excellent for cooking. Rather 
popular in some parts of the West. Sept. Subject to bitter 
rot in moist locations. 

36. St. Lawrence. Large ; flat ; pale yellow, mostly 
deep red, and crimson stripes. Good for cooking, poor for 
the table. Salable for its large, size and beauty. Sept. Vig- 
orous and productive. 



FALL APPLES. 



105 



37. Eaklt Joe. Small; flattish round; smooth, bright 
red on a pale yellow ground, covered with bloom ; stalk 
short, slim, in a broad, deep cavity ; calyx small, closed, in a 
shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, and very tender, of a very 
fine, high aromatic flavor. One of the very best and most 
beautiful; but good only when eaten from the tree. During 
Sept. We find it to be only a moderate grower, and a great 
bearer. Origin, Bloomfield, N. Y. 



^ *Xf 


7 I >- 


/ \ 




/ Early Joe. J 


r I 


V 


t J 




9 ] 




/ y 00 ^ *x 





V 

\ 



— . «• 



-/!#•.. 



.•** 



Mexico. 



38. Mexico. Medial ; roundish ; bright crimson, clouded 
and striped with very dark red, a little yellow in the shade ; 
few large light dots ; stem rather long and stout, in a broad, 
rather shallow, russety cavity ; calyx rather large, in a nar- 
row basin; flesh whitish, tinged with red; tender, rather 
juicy, of a fine high flavor. We find it a moderate grower ; 
perfectly hardy even in Maine. A good bearer, very hand- 
some, excellent fruit. Sept. Origin, Canterbury, Ct. 



106 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



39. Garden Royal. Small ; roundish- flat ; dull, green- 
ish, russety yellow, mostly covered with dull, deep red in 
the sun, numerous large, light specks ; stem short, slender, 
in a medial cavity ; calyx medial, open, in a broad, shallow 
basin ; flesh very fine, tender, almost melting, crisp, of a 
delicious, highly aromatic flavor. Nothing superior. Sept. 
Moderate grower and great bearer. Fine for the private 
garden. Rather small for market. 




40. Long Stem. Large medial ; flat tish -round ; pale yel- 
low, brown full in the sun ; dark specks and patches ; stem 
extremely long, slender, in a broad, deep cavity ; calyx large, 
rather open, in a broad, shallow basin ; flesh white, rather 



FALL APPLES. 



107 



tender, juicy, of a rich, mild, delicious, sprightly, aromatic 
flavor. First-rate for the dessert or cooking. Sept. 1st, to 
the last of Oct. Good and constant bearer. Origin, East 
Bridgewater, Ms. 

41. Superb Sweet. Rather large; roundish; pale yel- 
low, much red, bright in the sun ; stem long, in a deep cav- 
ity ; calyx large, open, in a broad basin ; flesh white, very 
tender, juicy, of a sweet, rich, high flavor. Hardy in Maine ; 
great grower, and good bearer. One of the best. Sept.,tind 
into Oct. Raised by Mr. Jacob Deane, Mansfield, Ms., a 
distinguished fruit-grower. 



42. Porter. Large ; oblong-ovate ; 
smooth, rich yellow, a dull blush in the 
sun ; stem medial, in a rather narrow, 
deep cavity ; calyx large, open, in a 
rather narrow, deep basin ; flesh toler- 
ably fine and tender, very juicy, of a 
rich, excellent, slightly acid flavor. For 
cooking and the dessert. Sept. and into 
Oct. A good grower and great bearer. 
The principal Sept. apple in the Boston 
market. It also succeeds well in the 
Middle States, and in the West. Gener- 
ally yields about twice as much in even 
as in odd years. By Rev. S. Porter, 
Sherburne. Ms. 



43. Tufts's Baldwin. Very large: flattish-conical, ribbed ; 
smooth, fair, yellowish-green, mostly covered with rather dull, 



108 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

dark, unbroken red ; stem rather short, in a broad, deep cav- 
ity ; calyx small, closed, in a narrow, deep basin ; flesh 
rather coarse, yellowish, crisp, pleasant sub-acid. Resembles 
the Baldwin in quality. Very salable from its noble and 
fine appearance, but not first-rate for the table. Sept. and 
Oct. 

44. Fairbanks. Medial ; flattish-round-conical ; light yel- 
low, stripes of dull red, and russet patches ; stem long, 
slender, in a broad, shallow cavity ; basin shallow ; flesh 
yellowish, fine, juicy, of an excellent flavor, blending sac- 
charine with sub-acid. Sept. and into Oct. Much esteemed 
in the region of its origin. Farm of the late Mr. T. E. Fair- 
banks, Winthrop, Me. P. Society. 



«~. .»-••• 



45. Sassafras SwEEt, Haskell Sweet. 
Rather large ; flattish; yellowish green; 
stem short, stout, in a deep cavity ; calyx 
medial, closed, in a narrow, deep basing 
flesh tender, juicy, of a very sweet, rich, 
sassafras flavor. Vigorous and productive. 
One of the best. Sept. and Oct. The same 
fruit, in our opinion, is considerably known 
under each name. We prefer the most 
significant cognomen. Origin, Ipswich, Ms. 



46. Wine, of East N. J., and of Deane, of Mansfield, Ms. 
Medial ; flat ; very smooth and fair, rich, dark bright red ; 
flesh yellow, crisp, pleasant, and vinous. Sept. and Oct. ; 
slow grower, of a dwarfish habit, which, with the beautiful 
fruit, is highly ornamental, and adapted to the garden. 



FALL AITLES. 



109 



47. Fall Wine. In 0. Fruit Convention, considered one 
of the best in its season. Sept. and Oct. We have no de- 
scription. 

48. Summer Sweet Paradise. Very large ; flattish-round ; 
pale green, yellowish in the sun, large dark dots ; stalk 
large, in a cavity of medial depth ; flesh tender, very juicy, 
crisp, of a sweet, rich, aromatic flavor. Sept. and Oct. 
Great grower, and abundant bearer. One of the finest. By 
J. B. Garber, Esq., Columbia, Pa. 

49. Lowell, Pound Royal, Orange, Queen Anne, Tallow. 
Large ; oblong-ovate ; oily, pale yellow ; tender, and nearly 
first-rate. Sept. and Oct. Good grower, great bearer. Raised 
in Western N. Y. and 0. 



V— ; 




50. Briggs's Auburn. Large ; flat; light yellow, 
slight blush in the sun ; stem rather long, in a broad, 
very deep cavity ; basin very broad and shallow ; 
flesh white, fine texture, flavor a blending of sac- 
charine and sub-acid. Sept. and Oct. Tree hardy 
and productive. Origin, Auburn, Me. Introduced 
by Mr. John Briggs, Me. P. Society. 




51. Dutch Codlin. Very large; roundish, ribbed ; pale 
yellow, orange in the sun ; stem short, thick ; basin narrow, 
deeply furrowed ; crisp, juicy, arid. For cooking only. Last 
Sept. and Oct. Foreign, 

in 



110 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



52. Boxford. Medial; flat; yellow, red striped ; tendt 
pleasant ; but transient, and lacks character. Sept. and Oc» 

53. Moses Wood. Medial ; roundish ; straw color, beauti 
fully striped with red ; cavity and basin shallow ; flesh whiti 
tender, juicy, of a pleasant, sub-acid flavor. Sept. and Oc 
Productive ; orchard of Mr. Moses Wood, Winthrop, Me. Mt 
P. Society. 

54. Jersey Sweeting. Small medial ; roundish-ovate ; 
greenish-yellow, nearly covered with pale red ; fine texture, 
tender, very sweet, juicy, and sprightly. Sept. and Oct. Fine i 
for table, for cooking, and for stock. Productive. It ranks 
high in the Middle and Western States ; but little known here. 

55. Holland Pippin. Very large ; rather flat ; greenish, a 
dull blush ; rather coarse and acid. For cooking. Sept. 
and Oct. Often confounded with Fall Pippin, which is much 
superior. 



56. Gravenstein. Large ; flattish-round ; rich yel- 
low, mostly covered with bright red stripes; stem 
short, stout, in a deep cavity ; calyx large, open, in a 
wide, deep basin : flesh whitish, very juicy, crisp, of 
a very high, sprightly, vinous flavor, rather acid till 
fully ripened, and mellowed. 15 Sept. and Oct. Per- 
fectly hardy, very vigorous and productive ; bearing 
most in even years. One of the handsomest and best 
for all parts of the country, holding an equally high 
rank with the Porter; some prefer it. Among the 
early winter apples in the Northern parts of N. Eng- 
land. Origin, Germany, where it ranks the highest 
of all. 





57. Leland Pippin, Leland Spice, and New York Spice. 
Large ; roundish ; yellow ground, nearly covered with bright 
red ; stem short, in a narrow cavity ; calyx small, in a shal- 
low basin ; flesh yellowish, rather tender, juicy, of a very 



FALL APPLES. Ill 

rich, high aromatic sub-acid flavor. Excellent for eating 
and cooking, but too acid for many. 15 Sept. and Oct. 
Very vigorous and productive, and the fruit handsome and 
salable. Dea. Daniel Leland, of Sherburne, Ms., has long 
cultivated it, and he thinks the original tree was imported 
long since. 

58. Fall Strawberry, Late Strawberry. Medial ; round- 
ish; slightly conical ; light and dark red ; flesh whitish, very 
tender, juicy, of a fine, pleasant, slightly acid flavor. Middle 
Sept. and Oct. Vigorous and good bearer. Thomas says, 
one of the finest of all table fruits. Origin, Western N. Y. 

59. Weston. Large ; roundish-conical ; yellow, mostly 
covered with red ; flesh whitish, tolerably juicy, of a mild, 
pleasant flavor. Last Sept. and Oct. Moderate grower, 
great bearer. Origin, farm of Maj. Daniel Weston, Lincoln, 
Ms. New. 

60. Pomme Royale, Smithfield Spice, Dyer. Medial ; round- 
ish ; greenish pale yellow, with a faint blush ; very tender, 
juicy, of a mild, pleasant, sprightly flavor. Last Sept. and 
Oct. Cultivated a little in R. I. Popular in Northern Ohio. 
Supposed of French origin. 

61. Lyscom, Osgood's Favorite. Large ; round ; greenish 
pale yellow, striped with bright crimson ; stem short, in a 
deep cavity ; calyx large, in a narrow plaited basin ; flesh 
fine, tender, mild, pleasant. Last Sept. into Nov. Wanting 
flavor, yet salable from its size, beauty, mildness, and tender- 
ness. Moderate grower, and moderate or good bearer. Ori- 
gin, Southboro', Ms. 

62. Beauty of the West. Large; round; greenish yel- 
low, stripes of red ; tender, sweet, second-rate. Fall. 

63. Chapman's Orange. Small medial ; deep orange ; 
fine, juicy, very high flavor ; first-rate. October. Michigan 
Farmer. 

64. Winthrop Pearmain. Large ; roundish-ovate ; straw 
color, striped with red, deep red in the sun ; stem medial, 
in a rather deep and broad cavity ; shallow basin ; flesh 
white, fine, juicy, of a pleasant spicy flavor. Last Sept. to 
Nov. Constant bearer. Orchard of Col. J. Fairbanks, 
Winthrop, Me. Me. P. Society. 

65. Magnolia. Large, medial ; flattish-conical ; stem 
short, stout, in a broad, deep, wavy cavity; calyx small, 
closed, in a narrow shallow basin ; greenish pale yellow, 
half covered and beautifully mottled with red, with brilliant 



112 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



crimson stripes m the sun ; flesh white, very tender, juicy, 
of a mild, sprightly aromatic flavor. Oct. and to middle of 
Nov. Good grower, and great bearer. One of the most 
beautiful and best of apples, excepting some in the shade 
lack character. Ongin, Bolton, Ms. 



66. Hawley, Douse. Very large ; flattish-round ; smooth, 
pale yellow ; stem three quarters of an inch long, slender, in 
a wide, deep cavity ; calyx in a narrow, deep basin ; flesh 
yellowish, fine, very tender, crisp, of a rich, pleasant, slightly 
acid flavor. Oct. and Nov. A good grower, and good and 
constant bearer. One of the best ; fully equal to Fall Pippin, 
more fair, and productive. Origin, New Canaan, N. Y. From 
seeds from Milford, Ct. 




67. Thompkins. Large, handsome and productive. Oct. 
and Nov. Downing, in his Horticulturist, commends it with 
confidence, and says, the flavor is superior to the Porter, and 
nearly equal to the Fall Pippin. 

68. Jewett's Red, Nodheod. Medial ; flattish-round ; 
bright dark red, very little greenish yellow ; very short stem, 
in a very shallow cavity ; small calyx in a slight basin : flesh 
yellowish, remarkably tender, almost melting, like a fine 
pear; mild, approaching to saccharine, of a delicious; aro- 



FALL APPLES. 



113 



matic flavor. For the dessert only. Oct. and Nov. A good 
grower till it begins to bear ; a good bearer. Adapted to the 
North. Requires a good soil and high culture, else the fruit 
will not be fair. Origin, Hollis, N. H. Much cultivated in 
that State and Me. It is beautiful and of the first quality. 

69. Hubbardston Nonsuch. (See engraving, page 1.) 
Large to very large ; roundish ; yellow, mostly covered with 
red, which is bright in the sun ; lower part of the cavity and 
basin, greenish russet, numerous dark specks; stem two 
thirds of an inch long, in a broad, deep cavity ; calyx rather 
large, open, in a broad basin ; flesh yellowish-white, tender, 
crisp, of a very mild, excellent aromatic flavor, rather sac- 
charine. Oct. and Nov. A good grower and good bearer, 
mostly in even years. Very popular in the market. Origin, 
Hubbardston, Ms. 



70. Maiden's Blush, Red Cheek. 
Large medial ; flattish ; smooth ; 
lemon yellow, with a most beautiful 
blush ; stem short, in a cavity from 
deep to shallow ; calyx closed, in a 
shallow basin; flesh white, tender, 
pleasant, sub-acid. A good grower 
and bearer. Though rather acid, 
and not of high flavor, yet it is one 
of the best market fruits. Oct. and 
Nov. Origin, N.J. It is often called 

71. Hawthornden, which is sim- 
ilar, but more green, and inferior; 
the best apple of Scotland. 



72. Ram's Horns. A most beautiful, large, dark-red apple, 
that makes a conspicuous appearance in our market in Oct. 
and Nov. Middling quality, apt to be knotty ; yet some say 
that it is productive and profitable, as it sells well 
10* 



114 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



73. Queen Anne. Large; oblong; crimson; pleasant 
sub-acid. Very salable, but poor bearer. Oct. and Nov. 
The Queen Anne, or Lowell, of Ohio, is yellow, and earlier. 

74. Beauty of Kent. Magnificent and beautiful; for 
cooking only. Oct. and Nov. Foreign. 

75. Holden Pippin, Hogpen, Jones's Pippin. Large; round- 
ish-oblong; greenish pale yellow, occasionally a brownish 
cheek, numerous large dark dots over the whole surface; 
stem short, in a very deep cavity ; calyx large, rather open, 
in a narrow, rather deep basin ; flesh white, remarkably ten- 
der, juicy, of a pleasant, sub-acid flavor. First-rate for cook- 
ing, and good for eating, but rather acid for some palates. Oct. 
and Nov. Vigorous and great bearer. Origin, Holden, Ms. 



76. Cooper. Large ; flattish-round ; greenish-yellow, 
stripes and blotches of pale red; stem short, slender, 
deeply planted ; calyx closed, in a deep basin ; flesh yel- 
lowish, juicy, crisp, pleasant, but not high flavor. Eating 
and cooking. Oct. and into Dec. Great bearer. Springer 
says, it is the best, of all fall apples, far excelling Fall 
Pippin. Mr. J. Mathews, of Coshocton, Ohio, says, that 
there is no apple in the "West that excels it in flavor. 
Dr. Barker said, at the O. Fruit Convention, that the 
bark becomes callous to the wood in spots, causing the 
sap to ooze out. Mr. H. N. Gillet, of Quaker Bottom, 
0., says it is excellent, but has its equal in the 



77. Lon& Pearmain, which ripens at the same time, and 
excels it in size and flavor. 

78. Ross Nonpareil. Small medial ; roundish, slightly 
ovate; russet, faint red in the sun; tender, of a rich, 



FALL APPLES. 



115 



aromatic, fennel flavor. Nov. Great bearer. Origin, Ire- 
land. 

79. Quince oi Coxe. Large ; flattish ; yellow ; flesh yel- 
lowish, juicy, crisp, of a very pleasant flavor. Nov. A fine 
fruit, yet but little known. 

80. Pumpkin Sweet, Pumpkin Russet. Large; flattish; 
yellowish, with some russet ; very rich and sweet. Oct. to 
Dec. Good grower, moderate bearer. A great many kinds 
of apples, resembling pumpkins in size, and often inferior in 
quality, are called Pumpkin Sweet. 



81. Mother Apple. Rather large ; 
roundish, slightly ovate ; very little yellow, 
marbled and striped with red, mostly cov- 
ered with dark red, very dark and bright in 
the sun, the red is interspersed with russety 
dots ; stem three quarters of an inch long, 
rather slender, in a broad, tolerably deep 
cavity ; calyx small, nearly closed, in a nar- 
row, tolerably deep, irregular basin ; flesh 
yellowish, very tender, almost melting, mild, 
rich, highly aromatic, with a delightful 
mingling of slightly sub-acid and saccha- 
rine qualities ; aroma resembling Chick- 
winter-green. Last of Oct. to Jan. We 
find it perfectly hardy in Maine, moderate 
grower, a good and constant bearer. In 




quality it has no superior, and very few equals. Origin, 
Bolton, Ms. 

82. 'Detroit, Red Detroit, Crimson Pippin. Large; round- 
ish-flat, slightly conical ; smooth, glossy, dark crimson pur- 
ple, with a little fawn color ; stem medial, in a deep cavity ; 



116 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



calyx closed, in a deep plaited basin ; flesh white, tinged with 
red, very tender, mild, and pleasant, but not excellent. Oct. 
and into Dec. Slow grower, good bearer. Too soft for 
transportation. Salable from its handsome appearance, and 
medial quality. 

83. Male Carle. Medial ; common apple shape ; smooth, 
lemon color, crimson in the sun; flesh white, not juicy, of a 
delicate, rose-perfumed flavor. Oct. to Jan. Adapted to the 
southern region of the Middle and Western States, and 
further South. The first apple in Italy, and popular in the 
South of Europe. 

84. Seek-no-further. This is a vague term, being about 
as definite as pippin or apple. In N. J. and Pa. it is applied 
to the Rambo, in N. Y. to Domine. The Seek-no-further 
of Coxe is large ; roundish, inclining to conical ; greenish 
pale yellow ; juicy, rich, tender, and excellent. Last of Oct. 
to Jan. Popular in some parts of the West. In this region 
there is a Seek-no-further ; small, oblong ; bright, excellent, 
but rather small for market. There are a great many other 
kinds under this name. 




85. Rambo, Romanite (this is also a syno- 
nym of Gilpin) and Bread and Cheese apple 
of N. J., Seek-no -further of Philadelphia, 
where it is very popular. Medial ; flat, yel- 
lowish-white, pale yellow, streaked with red 
in the sun, large, long specks ; stem long, 
.slender, in a deep funnel-shaped cavity ; 
calyx closed, in a broad, shallow, plaited 
basin ; flesh greenish white, remarkably 
tender, of a rich, sprightly, luscious, slightly 
sub-acid flavor. Dessert and cooking:. Last 



of Oct. to Jan. Adapted to light soils. One of the finest in 
the Middle States and the West, but does not bear extending 



FALL APPLES. 



117 



far North or South of its origin, Beaver Co., Pa. Moderate 
or slow grower. Good bearer. 

86. Fall Harvey, Oaks Apple perhaps. Large ; flattish, 
slightly ribbed ; pale straw color, seldom a brownish cheek ; 
stem short, in a deep, wide cavity ; calyx small, closed, in a 
shallow basin ; crisp, juicy, of a rich, pleasant flavor. Nov. 
and Dec. Good grower and bearer ; fine, fair fruit, but not 
first-rate, and rather apt to fall, or to rot on the tree. Re- 
quires a deep sandy loam. Origin, Essex Co., Ms. It is not 
determined whether the Oaks is this apple, and superior from 
location, or a distinct yet similar kind. 




\ 



\ 



87. Fall Pippin. Very large ; roundish, slightly 
flattened ; smooth, oily, bright greenish-yellow, 
often a brownish blush, few light specks and dots ; 
stem two thirds of an inch long, in a shallow cav- 
ity ; calyx small, in a deep, narrow basin ; flesh 
whitish, very tender, breaking, juicy, of a rich, sub- 
acid, aromatic flavor. Fine for the table, superior 
also for cooking. Last of Oct. to Jan. Moderate 
in growth and bearing, and requires high culture 
for fair fruit. In N. England, it generally blasts 
and is scrubby, but in N. Y. it is the leading fall 
apple, and it is popular in the "West. Origin not 
known. 



88. Cabashea. Very large ; roundish : greenish-yellow, 
and bright red ; coarse, poor quality. Western N. Y. Nov. 
and Dec Inferior to 20 Ounce. 



118 



AMERICAN FRUIT EOOK. 



89. Alexander. Extremely large ; flattish-conical ; green- 
ish-yellow and red, in the sun bright red and a little orange ; 
stalk short, slender, deep cavity ; calyx large, in a deep ba- 
sin; crisp, tender, and pleasant. Wants flavor. Nov. and 
Dec. Moderate bearer. Foreign. 

90. Fameuse, Snow Apple, Pomme de Niege. Small medial ; 
roundish ; greenish-yellow, mostly covered with red, bright 
in the sun ; stem short, slender, in a funnel-shaped cavity j 
calyx small, in a small basin ; flesh pure white, very tender, 
juicy, and pleasant. Nov. and Dec. Slow grower, good 
bearer. Best suited to a Northern region, or cool location. 
For the amateur or private garden, rather than the market, 
in this region. Origin, Canada, where it ranks as the first 
apple. 



91. Hurlbut. Medial; flattish-con- 
ical ; pale yellow, mostly covered with 
red, with bright stripes in the sun ; stem 
medial length, slender, in a rather 
broad, deep cavity, always covered with 
russet, often extending on the base; 
calyx small, closed, in a shallow basin ; 
flesh yellowish-white, fine texture, rath- 
er tender, remarkably crisp, juicy, of a 
mild, sprightly, aromatic flavor. Nov. 
and Dec. We find this as great and 
stout a grower, in the nursery, as the 
Baldwin. Great bearer. The original 
tree is still flourishing on the farm of 
Gen. Leonard Hurlbut, Winchester, Ct. 



It bore 40 bushels one year, and 20 the next. One of the 
finest in its season. For the dessert and kitchen. 

92. Ramsdell's Sweeting. Large medial, or rather* large ; 
oblong, slightly ovate ; dark red, with fawn-colored specks, 



FALL AfPLES. 



119 



blue bloom ; stem very short, in a narrow, deep cavity ; a 
deep basin ; flesh yellowish, very tender, and mellow, and 
remarkably sweet and rich. Last of Oct. to Jan. Very vig- 
orous, enormous and constant bearer. Native of Ct., and 
but little known elsewhere. 





93. Yellow Bellflowek. Very 
large ; long ovate-conical, irregular 
ribbed, mostly towards the eye ; 
smooth, lemon yellow, generally a 
blush in the sun ; stem long, slender, 
in a narrow, deep cavity; calyx 
closed, in a narrow, plaited basin ; 
flesh tender, juicy, of a rich, sprightly, 
aromatic flavor. Latter part of Nov. 
to Feb. Good grower, moderate and 
constant bearer. One of the very 
best in quality. Popular in Philadel- 
phia, in the West, in the new lands 
of the North, and strong soils of N. 
Y. ; but here it will not yield more 
than half as much fair fruit as some 
other valuable kinds. Thrives well 
in a deep, sandy loam. Origin, Bur- 
lington, N. Y. 




94. Eustis, Ben. Large ; roundish to oval ; yellow and 
red ; stem medial, slender, in a narrow cavity ; calyx open, 
in a broad, narrow basin ; flesh firm, crisp, mild, spicy flavor. 
Nov. to Jan. Good grower and bearer. Fruit salable, but 
flesh rather hard, dryish, and not high flavor. Mother, Hurl- 



120 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

but, and others of its season, rank higher. Origin, South 
Reading, Ms. 

95. Golden Ball. Very large ; roundish, ribbed ; smooth, 
golden yellow, seldom brownish in the sun ; stem short, stout, 
in a very shallow cavity ; calyx small, closed, iu a shallow 
basin ; flesh tender, crisp, of a sprightly, rich, aromatic fla- 
vor ; excellent for the dessert and for cooking. More hardy 
than the Baldwin ; a good grower, but poor bearer. Nov. to 
Jan. ; in Maine to Feb. Preferable to No. 108. 

96. Twenty Ounce, Cayuga Red Streak. Very large ; 
roundish ; greenish-yellow, marbled and striped with pur- 
plish-red ; stalk short, in a deep cavity ; calyx small, in a 
medial basin ; flesh coarse, dry, of a brisk, sub-acid flavor. 
Wanting character, but salable from its splendid and beauti- 
ful appearance. Nov. to Jan. Free, vigorous, and produc- 
tive. Origin, N. Y. 

97. Wine, of Coxe, Haifs Winter. Large, or very large ; 
roundish, much flattened at both ends ; skin smooth, yellow, 
about half covered with lively red, mostly in stripes ; stem 
short, in a deep cavity ; very deep, broad basin ; flesh whitish, 
rather coarse, tender, mild, pleasant vinous flavor. Good for 
dessert, and excellent for cooking and cider. Nov. to Jan. 
Hardy, vigorous, and productive. Native of Delaware. Cul- 
tivated in N. Y., N. J., and Pa. Popular in Philadelphia, 
and salable in Boston ; but hardly cultivated in N. England. 

98. Blue Pearmain. Large, or very large ; flattish-round ; 
dull purplish red, rather brilliant in the sun, with a white 
bloom ; stem short, in a deep cavity ; calyx small, in a deep 
basin ; flesh yellowish, firm, rather dry, mild, pleasant, but 
not high flavored. Nov. to Jan. A moderate grower ; mod- 
erate or poor bearer, and a long time in coming into bearing. 
Dr. H. Cowdry, Acton, Ms., set a Baldwin and B. Pearmain 
at the same time, in the same soil. The former had borne 
12 barrels when the latter only one peck. Yet this noble, 
handsome fruit is salable, and though hardly worth cultivat- 
ing here ; it is valuable in the North, where it does better, 
and is more hardy than almost every other kind. 

99. Pound Royal. Large ; flattish-roundish ; light yel- 
low, seldom a faint blush; flesh fine, tender, breaking, of 
a mild, pleasant, sprightly flavor. Last of Nov. into Jan. 
Native of Ct., and considerably cultivated there. A fine 
fruit, but needs high culture. 

100. Dutch Mignonne. Large; roundish; dull orange, 



FALL APPLES. 



121 



and dull red, large russet specks ; flesh rather tender, of a 
rich, high, aromatic flavor. Latter part of Nov. into Feb. 
Good grower, and bears well. Delicious in the Middle Re- 
gion ; but little known at the North. 




101. Belmont, Gate Apple, Mamma Bean, 
Waxen hut not of Coxe. Rather large; round- 
ish-ovate-conical ; skin waxen, sometimes pale 
yellow, brownish cheek ; stem rather Jong, in 
a deep cavity ; deep, narrow basin ; fine tex- 
ture, rather firm, tender, of a rich, excellent, 
sub-acid flavor. Late autumn and early win- 
ter. A free grower and great bearer, adapted 
to rather dry soil. Succeeds well in Northern 
Ohio and Michigan, but not in Southern 0. 
Springer says, "one of the best." Ohio 
Fruit Convention says, first-rate, and so says 
Thomas. Hardly known here. Origin, place 
of Mrs. Bean, near Strasburg, Pa. 



102. Murphy. Rather large; roundish-oblong; light and 
dark red ; tender, pleasant flavor. Nov. to Feb. But little 
cultivated. By Mr. D. Murphy, Salem, Ms. 

103. Melvin Sweet. Medial ; roundish ; yellowish-green, 
striped with pale red ; flesh rich and sugary. Nov. to Feb 
We find this to be a good grower in the nursery ; a good 
bearer. An excellent salable fruit; new and promising, but 
not well tested. Concord, Ms. 

11 



122 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

104. Chandler. Large; roundish; pale yellow ground ; 
mostly red ; stalk short, in a wide* cavity ; calyx small, in a 
wide basin ; flesh tender, juicy, rather rich, pleasant, sub- 
acid. Nov. to Feb. Moderate grower, great bearer. Popu- 
lar in some parts of Ct., its origin. 

105. Portsmouth Sweet. Large ; roundish-conical ; yel- 
low, striped with scarlet ; sweet and excellent. Late fall and 
winter. We find this very vigorous. New, beautiful, and 
promising, but not well tested. Origin, Portsmouth, N. H. 

106. Herefordshire Pearmain, Royal or Eng. Pearmain. 
Medial ; oblong-ovate ; russety green, mottled with brownish 
red ; stem half inch long, slender ; calyx wide, in a narrow 
plaited basin ; very tender, of a pleasant aromatic flavor. 
Late fall and winter. Good grower, moderate bearer. Des- 
sert and cooking. Very popular in some parts of the Middle 
States. Foreign. 

Winter and Spring Apples. 

Early winter apples, here, are late fall and early winter in 
the Southern part of the Middle States, and the same latitude 
West ; and they are winter fruits in Me., N. H., Vt., ice. 

107. Kino. Many of this name. An excellent kind in 
this market, from N. Y. Large ; ovate ; yellow, mostly red ; 
tender, rich, mild, inclining to saccharine. Nov. to Jan. As 
good as the Wine apple, and as showy and better than the 
20 Ounce. We have from Ellwanger and Barry, Rochester, 
N. Y., another King. Rather large ; roundish-conical ; yel- 
low, red in the sun ; saccharine blended with sub-acid ; excel- 
lent. Winter. Another King, in Essex Co., Ms., size of 
Baldwin ; form of Greening ; bright red, very good ; great 
bearer. Nov. and Dec. And others. 

108. Gloria Mundi, Monstrous Pippin. Extremely large ; 
flattish-round ; lemon yellow, brownish in the sun; rather 
acid. For cooking only. Poor bearer. Last of Nov. to Jan. 

109. Vandevere, Oxeye of O. Large ; roundish ; yellow 
ground, clouded and marbled with red. light gray specks ; 
stem half an inch long, in a deep cavity ; calyx medial, in a 
rather shallow basin ; flesh yellow, tender, crisp, of a pleas- 
ant sprightly flavor. A great bearer. Beecher says, it often 
hits when others miss. It is a profitable fruit in N. Y., and 
in the West. Last of Nov. to mid winter. Requires light, 
rich, sandy soil, else it is liable to blast, and to bitter rot. 
Native of Wilmington, Del. 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



123 



110. Bailey's Golden Sweet. Very large ; flattish ; yel- 
low, russet spots ; cavity broad, medial depth ; broad, shallow 
basin ; flesh white, rather coarse, of an excellent sweet 
flavor. Last of Nov. and nearly through winter. Produc- 
tive. Origin, orchard of Mr. Paul Bailey, Sidney, Me. Me. 
P. Society. 

111. Stevens's Gilliflower. Large; roundish-conical; 
shallow cavity and basin ; dull whitish ground, striped with 
red ; flesh white, tender, pleasant, sub-acid. Last of Nov. 
to Feb. Good bearer. Raised by Mrs. Olive Stevens, Swe- 
den, Me. Me. P. Society. 




112. Rhode Island Greening. Large; 
flattish ; smooth, pale-green, brownish cheek, 
full in the sun ; stalk two thirds of an inch 
long, rather slender ; calyx small, closed, in a 
shallow, plaited basin ; flesh yellowish, fine, 
tender, crisp, juicy, slightly acid and aro- 
matic. Last of Nov. to Feb. Rapid and 
stout grower, great bearer. Excellent for 
cooking, and pretty good for eating. One 
of the very best for main crops. It succeeds 
well on rather light, sandy soil. It is the 
leading apple in R. I., the place of its origin ; 
one of the principal in New England, gener- 
ally, and N. Y. ; but begins to fail in West- 
ern N. Y., and fails in the West, particularly 
on bottom lands. In this section the Bald- 



win is more profitable for the market, but this is equally 
valuable for family use. 

113. Jonathan. Medial ; roundish-ovate ; light yellow, 
mostly covered with lively red, brilliant in the sun ; stalk 



124 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



rather long, slender, in a deep cavity ; calyx small, in a deep 
basin; flesh white, tender, juicy, of a mild, sprightly flavor. 
Last of Nov. to Feb. Very popular in some sections, but 
too small for market here. Thomas says, beautiful, excel- 
lent, and great bearer. Kirtland says, " preferable to Eso- 
pus Spitzenburg here." Origin, Kingston, N. Y. 

114. Wells's Sweeting. Medial ; roundish ; dull green, a 
dull blush ; stem short and slender ; calyx small, in a shallow 
basin ; flesh white, very tender, rich, sweet, and sprightly. 
Last of Nov. to Feb. A good bearer. Origin, near New- 
burgh, N. Y. 




115. Melon, Norton's Melon, Watermelon. 
Medial ; roundish-conical ; greenish pale yel- 
low, with much red, bright crimson in the sun ; 
stem two thirds of an inch long, in a deep cav- 
ity ; calyx closed, in a rather deep basin ; flesh 
pure white, tender, crisp, extremely juicy, of a 
pleasant, sprightly flavor. Last of Nov. to 
March. An excellent fruit ; but little known. 
Origin, same as Northern Spy. 



116. Minister. Large; long-ovate; mostly red on yel 
low ground, bright red in the sun ; stem an inch long, slender, 
in a broad, shallow cavity ; calyx small, closed, in a very 
narrow, plaited basin ; flesh yellowish-white, very tender, of 
a rather acid, but pleasant, pie apple flavor. Last of Nov. 
to March. Great grower, and enormous bearer, so that the 
fruit often needs thinning. With rough handling and expos- 
ure, this fruit rots from bruising, or ripens prematurely, 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 125 

while too acid ; but carefully picked and saved in a cool 
place to ripen late, it loses most of its acidity, and becomes 
an excellent and most beautiful fruit. Needs a deep, sandy 
loam. Origin, Essex Co., Ms. 

117. Peck's Pleasant. Large; roundish-flat; clear yel- 
low, red in the sun; stem short, in a wide, wavy cavity; 
calyx small, open, in a deep basin ; flesh fine, firm, crisp, 
juicy, of an excellent, high, aromatic flavor. Early winter. 
Moderate grower and bearer. First-rate quality, resembling 
Newtown Pippin. Eaton says, " has been a great favorite 
in R. I., but is going out of cultivation, as the fruit is defec- 
tive." It is rather popular in Western N. Y. Elliott says, 
" first-rate on gravelly or sandy soils." Here, it is defective. 
Requires new lands or very high culture. 

118. Kaighn's Spitzenberg. More pointed than the Eso- 
pus ; pale red, white specks ; tender, juicy, fine flavor. 
Early winter. Nearly abandoned in N. J., its native place. 
Good in some parts of the West, particularly around Cincin- 
nati. In other parts, indifferent. 

119. McLellan. Medial; flattish-round ; yellow, with 
much red ; stem rather small, in a rather deep cavity ; 
calyx small, in a rather deep basin ; flesh white, tender, mild, 
and pleasant. Early winter. Moderate grower, great bearer. 
Origin, Woodstock. Ct. 

120. Marston's Red Winter. Large ; flattish-round ; 
pale yellow, mostly covered with red, clear and bright in the 
sun ; stem long, slender, in a funnel-shaped cavity ; calyx 
large, rather open, in a rather broad and deep basin ; flesh 
yellowish-white, tender, of a very pleasant flavor, inclining 
to saccharine. Early winter. Tree hardy, a good grower, 
and productive. Fruit handsome and excellent. Originated 
near Portsmouth, N. H., and cultivated in that region in 
preference to the Baldwin. 

121. Newtown Spitzenberg. Medial; flattish-round; 
fine yellow, beautiful blush ; a deep cavity ; wide basin ; 
flesh yellowish, of a mild, pleasant flavor. Much esteemed 
in some sections. Last of Nov. and into Feb. 

122. Danvers Winter Sweet, Epse Srveet. Medial; 
roundish-ovate ; greenish-yellow, olive blush ; flesh yellow- 
ish, tender, very rich, sweet and excellent for the dessert and 
baking. Winter. Good grower and bearer, mostly in even 
years. Needs a deep, rich, strong loam. Origin, Danvers, Ms., 
where it ranks high. O. Fruit Convention says, one of the 

n* 



126 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



best. One of the best winter sweets, yet it is liable to objec- 
tions. A part of the fruit is small, and it does not well in 
some locations. Some prefer Seaver. Tolman is more profit- 
able. Ladies' Sweeting is larger and handsomer, and will 
supersede it in climates to which it is adapted. 

123. Ribston Pippin. Medial ; flattish-round ; greenish 
yellow, dull red in the sun ; a little russet near the stalk, 
which is short, slender, in a rather wide and deep cavity; 
calyx closed, in an angular basin ; flesh yellow, very firm, 
crisp, juicy, of a rich, rather acid, aromatic flavor. First- 
rate for cooking, and pretty good eating. Winter. A good 
spreading grower, and great bearer. In England, its native 
land, it ranks as the best of apples. In some parts of Maine, 
and other Northern regions, it is preferred to the Baldwin ; 
but in warm locations here, it is apt to fall from the tree early 
and rots. Barry thinks it first-rate, and too much neglected. 
Kirtland decides against it. Further South, it is still poorer. 



124. Swaar. Large ; flattish ; dull yellow, 
numerous brown specks, or marbling of gray 
russet ; stem medial, slender, in a rather deep 
cavity ; calyx medial, in a shallow basin; flesh 
yellowish, fine texture, tender, mild, inclining 
to saccharine, very rich, aromatic flavor, per- 
fumed. Winter. Such is the fruit when raised 
in N. Y. ; but that raised here, instead of being 
Swaar, (heavy,) is more like a pumpkin, and 
rots at the core. As our Swaars are large and 
pale yellow, we think they may be spurious. 
Adapted to a warm, deep, rich, sandy loam. 
Needs high culture. Origin, near Esopus, N. Y. 



125. Black Gilliflower. Large; very oblong-conical j 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



127 



yellow ground, nearly covered with purplish red, almost black 
in the sun ; flesh whitish, tender, pleasant, but not excellent ; 
rather dry when fully ripe. A moderate grower, great bearer. 
The fruit rather salable, but very little cultivated in this re- 
gion. Winter. 

126. Old Nonsuch, Winter Nonsuch, Richfield Nonsuch, 
Red Canada, of Western N. Y. Medial ; nearly all red ; 
stem slender, in a very deep cavity ; small basin ; very 
tender, juicy, inclining to saccharine. Winter. Moderate 
grower, good bearer. In N. Y., and some sections in the 
West, it is large, fair, and excellent ; but little cultivated 
here, as it is not profitable. 

127. Prior's Red, Priors Late Red. Large ; flat ; brown- 
ish yellow, little russet, tinged with red ; flesh fine, rather 
tender, dryish, of a rich, peculiar, sub-acid flavor. Winter. 
A great bearer. Cultivated about Cincinnati, and further 
South. Byram says, " no apple is more salable in New Or- 
leans." Elliott says, adapted only to rich, alluvial soils. 




128. Westfield Seek-no-further. 
Large medial : roundish-conical ; dull 
greenish, yellow ground, shaded and 
marbled with dull red ; russet dots ; 
stem three quarters of an inch long, 
slender, in a narrow, deep cavity ; calyx 
open, in a deep basin ; fine texture, 
of a rich, mild, pleasant pearmain fla- 
vor. Winter. But little cultivated here. 
Highly esteemed in Western N. Y., 
and in the West. Kirtland says, very 
excellent. Springer says, as to tree 
and fruit, preferable to any other. 0. 



Fruit Convention says, one of the first. Liable to bitter rot, 
of late years, on bottom lands in the West. 



128 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



129. Golden Pippin. Small ; round ; yellow, crisp, rich, 
brisk, high acid flavor. Winter. Too acid for eating, too 
small for profit. English. 

130. Pennock's Red Winter. Large ; flattish, deep red, 
sweetish, dry, poor, subject to bitter rot. Winter. Tree 
large and productive. 

131. Black apple. Small ; roundish ; dark purplish red ; 
flesh firm, wanting flavor. Winter. 




132. Baldwin, Pecker, Woodpecker, Late Bald- 
win, Steele's Red Whiter. Large ; roundish- 
ovate ; yellow and dull red, mostly dark red 
and crimson in the sun ; grayish dots, russet 
around the stem ; which varies from long and 
slim to short and stout, in a cavity of moderate 
depth; calyx medial, closed, in a narrow, toler- 
ably deep, plaited basin ; flesh yellowish, tender, 
crisp, juicy, of a rich, pleasant flavor, combining 
sub-acid and slight saccharine qualities. Cooking 
and the dessert. Last of Nov. to April. Adapted 
to various soils, better on rather dry than on 
wet soils. Rather tender in cold locations in the 
Northern part of N. England, unless grafted on 
standard trees. A prodigious grower, and enor- 



mous bearer, mostly in even years. (Page 87.) Cultivated 
far more than any other kind in this region. It does well in 
N. Y., but begins to fail in the Western part of that State, 
and is liable to bitter rot in the West. Wilmington and 
Tewksbury, Ms., seem to have an equal claim to its origin. 
Late Baldwin is a modification of this fruit. The tree more 
hardy in the North, and bearing more in odd years. The 
fruit harder, more flat, and keeps longer. 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



129 



133. Aunt Hannah. Medial ; roundish -ovate ; straw 
color; of a very rich, pleasant flavor, Winter. Origin, 
Essex Co., Ms. 

134. Brabant's Bellflower. Very large; roundish; 
pale yellow, mostly covered with red, fine bloom, full in the 
sun, numerous dark specks ; flesh firm, very juicy, crisp, of 
a rich, fine, rather acid flavor. Winter. Pretty good, but 
strangling grower. Hodge recommends it highly. Elliot 
thinks it valuable. Origin, Holland. 

135. Pomme Gris. Small medial ; roundish ; greenish- 
gray, russety, reddish in the sun ; tender, rich, high flavored. 
Winter. Rather slow grower, good bearer. An excellent 
dessert fruit for the North. 




136. Esopus Spitzenberg. Rather large; 
roundish-ovate ; yellow, mostly covered 
with rich, dark red ; stem medial, slender, 
in a wide cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow 
basin ; flesh yellow, firm, crisp, juicy, of a 
rich, sprightly flavor. Winter. A good 
grower, and good bearer. It flourishes 
well in new lands in Maine, (excepting a 
defect in the trunk,) and in N. Y. it ranks 
as their best winter apple. But on old 
lands in this region, the growth is poor, 
and the fruit inferior. When well grown, 
it is rather superior to the Baldwin in qual- 
ity, but inferior in growth, fairness, and 
bearing. Origin, Esopus, N. Y. 



137. The Flushing and Kaighn's Spitzenberg, are infe- 
rior to the foregoing, and in use nearly at the same time. 



130 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

138. Winesap. Medial ; oblong ; dark red ; crisp, of a 
pleasant, rich flavor ; superior for baking. Last of Nov. to 
May. Cultivated in N. J., and in some parts of the West. 

139. Leicester Saveeting, Porter's Sweeting. Rather 
large ; flattish ; greenish yellow . tender, rich, excellent. 
Fine for the dessert or baking. Winter. Vigorous and pro- 
ductive. One of our best. New. Leicester, Ms. 

140. Felch. Large ; flattish-conical ; greenish-yellow, and 
dull red, bright in the sun ; stem long, slim ; flesh firm, heavy, 
crisp, pleasant, sub-acid, and fresh after long keeping. Win- 
ter, and into Spring. Origin, Limerick, Me. 

141. White Seek-no-further. Medial ; roundish ; green, 
with dark gray spots. When perfect, excellent ; but very 
variable ; often of poor appearance, and wanting flavor. 
Little cultivated. Long Island, N. Y. 

142. Michael Henry Pippin. Medial; roundish-ovate; 
yellowish-green ; tender, juicy, and high flavored. Dec. to 
March. Popular in some parts of the West. 

143. English Russet. Medial; ovate; greenish yellow, 
mostly covered with russet ; firm, crisp, of a pleasant, mild, 
slightly sub-acid flavor. Winter and early Spring. Produc- 
tive, and in N. Y. profitable for the market. 

144. Hartford Sweeting. Large ; flattish-round ; yel- 
lowish-green, mostly red; tender, very juicy, of a rich, 
pleasant flavor. Dec. to Summer. Hardy, slow grower, great 
bearer. Profitable for market. Origin, near Hartford, Ct. 

145. Winter Sweet Paradise. Rather large ; roundish ; 
greenish-yellow, a dull blush ; fine texture, juicy, very sweet, 
of an excellent, sprightly flavor. Winter and early Spring. 
Great bearer, and fair fruit. Native of Pa. 

146. Woolman's Long, Oriley Pippin, White Belljlower, 
Detroit of the West. Medial ; oblong ; bright yellow, scarlet 
blush, and russet patches in the sun ; stem slender ; calyx 
large ; flesh whitish, crisp, of a sprightly, aromatic flavor. A 
great bearer. Winter and early Spring. Not esteemed in 
N. England. It does better further South, and is very pop- 
ular in the Southern regions of the West. Ernst says, a 
universal favorite, and better than Yellow Bellflower. 

147. Lady Apple, Api Petit. Very small ; flat ; glossy, 
lemon yellow, bright red cheek ; tender, crisp, juicy, pleasant, 
but not high flavored. Winter and early Spring. Great 
bearer. Popular in N. Y. Often imperfect in N. England. 
Kirtland says, subject to fire blight there. 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



131 



148. Domine. Medial; flat; greenish-yellow, bright red 
and russet specks in the sun; stem half an inch long, slen- 
der, in a wide, very deep cavity; calyx small, in a broad 
basin ; flesh white, very tender, juicy, of a sprightly, pleasant 
flavor, but not rich. Winter and early Spring. A rapid 
grower and prodigious bearer. Much esteemed in N. Y. 
Native, supposed. 




149. Talman Sweeting. Large me- 
dial ; flattish-round ; whitish-yellow, with a 
faint blush ; stem long, slender, in a wide, 
shallow cavity ; flesh white, rather firm, 
tough, and dry, but rich and very sweet. 
Excellent for baking, second-rate for the 
table. Fine for stock. Winter and early 
Spring. Moderate grower, but does not form 
a large tree. A great bearer, and profita- 
ble market fruit. Native of R. I., where it 
is much cultivated, and in Western N. Y. 
Popular in the West. The principal sweet 
apple in this market in winter. 



150. Red Russet. Large ; flattish-round ; russet, half 
covered with red ; flesh firm, crisp, juicy, of pleasant, rich 
flavor. Late Winter and Spring. Great grower, and bearer. 
New and promising. It seems to be a cross between the 
Baldwin and Roxbury Russet. Origin, farm of Mr. Aaron 
Sanborn, Hampton Falls, N. H. 

151. Moore's Late Sweet. Large; flattish; greenish- 
yellow, brown cheek ; tender, rich, sweet, and excellent. 
Dessert and baking. Winter and early Spring. Great 
grower, and productive. New. Mr. J. B. Moore, Concord, 
Ms. 



132 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



152. American Golden Russet, Hunts Russet, Sheep Nose 
of Coxe, Little Pear main in some parts of 0., Russet Pear- 
main in some sections of the West. Small ; roundish-ovate ; 
dull yellow and russet, reddish in the sun ; remarkably ten- 
der, of a rich, high spicy flavor. Winter and Spring. One of 
the very best, but lacks size for the market. Very hardy, a 
moderate grower, great and constant bearer. Origin. Hunt 
farm, Concord, Ms. It nourishes throughout the country. 
Beecher, when in the West, said, " Prince of small apples." 



153. Ladies' Sweeting-. Large ; roundish- 
ovate ; smooth, fair, nearly all red on a 
greenish-yellow ground, yellowish gray dots 
in the red, thin bloom ; stem very short, in 
a narrow cavity; calyx small, in a narrow, 
shallow basin ; flesh greenish-white, tender, 
juicy, crisp, of a rich, delicious, sprightly 
flavor. Dec. to May. Vigorous and pro- 
ductive. One of the finest. Originated in 
the vicinity of Newburgh, N. Y. Not well 
tested in N. England, nor in the West. If 
it is adapted to different climates and soils, 
it promises to be the most popular late 
sweet apple, as it is large, beautiful, excel- 
lent, and a good grower. 




154. Seaver Sweet, Can of Coxe probably. Large; 
roundish-conical ; greenish-olive, brownish in the sun ; stem 
very long, medial, in a narrow, deep cavity ; calyx small, 
closed, in a slight basin ; flesh rather tender, quite sweet, 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



133 



rich, and excellent, especially for baking. Dec. to May. A 
very vigorous, stout grower, and good bearer, mostly in odd 
years. Mr. Ives has this from Flushing, N. Y., under the 
name of Can. One of the best winter sweets in this region. 



// 



^ 



V 



155. Newtown Pippin. This is one 
of the very best, and yet most uncer- 
tain of all apples. With great ex- 
pense and skill in raising, and by 
selecting some of the finest specimens, 
it has brought a high price in foreign 
markets, which has given it a great 
name. The fruit is every year in our 
market, of poor appearance, and sell- 
ing at common prices. One Baldwin 




/Mz\ 



rAA v 



/ 



s 



ii 



tree, of the same age, will outweigh 4 of them, and out-bear 
5 or 6 of them, in good fair fruit. It generally fails in N. 
England : in some favorable situations in the Middle States, 
and in some parts of the West, it succeeds well. It requires 
a warm, deep, strong, friable loam, neither wet nor dry, lime 
in the soil, or manure, and the highest culture. 

Some pomologists reckon two kinds, others think there is but 
one, modified by various circumstances. The Green (dotted 
outline) is flattish-comcal ; stem, short, deep cavity ; smooth, 
olive-green. The Yellow (the larger outline) is flattish- 
round, angular ; stem short, rather deep cavity ; rough, yellow, 
or greenish-yellow, brownish or red cheek. We have seen 
another form and color. Roundish-conical, very deep cav- 
ity ; smooth, wax-like, pale yellow, bright red cheek. 

The Newtown Pippin is of medial size ; flesh fine, firm, 
12 



134 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



crisp, juicy, of a rich, sprightly, high aromatic flavor and 
aroma. Remarkable for retaining its freshness to a late 
period. Late winter, spring, and to mid-summer. A slow, 
scrubby grower ; moderate bearer. Fruit inclined to be 
defective under the best management. Origin, Newtown, 
Long Island. 




156. Northern Spy. Large ; roundish- 
conical ; ribbed ; smooth, greenish, pale yel- 
low, much dull red, with dark, bright stripes 
in the sun ; stem two thirds of an inch long, 
rather stout, in a broad, deep cavity ; calyx 
small, nearly closed, in a deep, furrowed 
basin ; flesh yellowish, very tender, juicy, 
mild, inclining to saccharine, delicious, 
slightly aromatic. Remarkable for its 
freshness after long keeping. Winter, 
Spring, and into Summer. A great, up- 
right grower ; good bearer. But it needs a 
rich soil, high culture, and constant growth, 
to produce fair fruit, as the tree grows old ; 



and the top must be thinned to expose the fruit to the sun, 
as it is insipid in the shade. Very hardy in the North, as we 
find by a few years' experience in Maine. This is a new and 
excellent fruit, and promises to take the place of Roxbury 
Russet, and many other late kinds of inferior appearance 
and quality. Origin, farm of 0. Chapin, East Bloomfield, 
N. Y., from seed from Ct. 

157. Canada Renette, White Pippin, of 0., probably. 
Very large ; flattish-conical ; ribbed ; greenish-yellow, brown 



WINTER AND SPRING APPLES. 



13o 



in the sun ; flesh whitish, rather firm, juicy, of a rich, brisk, 
sub-acid flavor. Dec. to May. Usually not fair in this 
section. 

158. Gilpin, Carthouse, Romanite. Medial ; roundish ; red 
and yellow. Late Winter and Spring. Better kinds are 
taking its place. 

159. American White Winter Calville. Large; flat- 
tish-round ; pale yellow ; flesh white, fine, of a very agreea- 
ble, delicate, sub-acid flavor. Dec. to May. A strong, fine 
grower, a great and constant bearer. From J. Matthews, 
Coshocton, 0., in 0. Cultivator. Raised by Daniel Miller, 
Lafayette Co., 0. Humrickhouse says, "origin, Va" It 
resembles the White Calville, of the French ; also the Yellow 
Bellflower, and the Gate apple. 




160. Roxbury Russet, Boston Russet, 
Putnam Russet in O. Rather large ; flat- 
tish ; yellow russet, rarely a faint blush ; 
stem medial, slender, in a rather shal- 
low cavity : calyx closed, in a moder- 
ate basin ; flesh greenish- white, rather 
dry, when fully ripe, slightly acid and 
pleasant. Pretty good for cooking, not 
first-rate for the dessert. Late Winter, 
Spring, and early Summer. A moderate 
grower, and great bearer, in a very moist, 
strong, rich soil, otherwise unprofita- 
ble. Very apt to fail from unfavorable 




weather in spring, or other causes ; yet important from its 
late keeping. Origin, Roxbury, Ms. 

161. Win Russet. Large"; flattish-round ; dark russet; 
shallow cavity; broad, shallow basin; flesh fine, tender, 



136 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



pleasantly sub-acid. Keeps till April or May. Great bearer. 
Origin, farm of Mr. John Win, Sweden, Me. Me. P. So- 
ciety. 

162. Tewksbury Winter Blush. Small; rather flat; 
yellow, red cheek ; pleasant but not high flavored. Remark- 
able for freshness after long keeping. Feb. to July, or Aug. 
Vigorous and productive. Native of N. J. Cultivated in 
the Middle and Western States. 



163. Raule's Janette. Rattle's Jennet- 
ing, Rockrimmon and Never-fail, of Ohio. 
Medial ; greenish-yellow, with stripes of 
red ; flesh yellowish, firm, tender, juicy, 
rather acid, of an agreeable flavor. Late 
Winter, Spring, and early Summer. 
Good grower and great bearer. Blos- 
soms two weeks later than others, which 
makes it a sure bearer. Not adapted to 
the North, but to Southern Ohio. Ken- 
tucky, tec. Beecher and Springer prefer 
it to Newtown Pippin Origin, Va. 



164. Shawmut. Small; round; yellow; firm, lively, ex- 
cellent flavor. Spring and early Summer. Called a good 
grower and bearer. Origin, traced to Boston. 

165. Orange. Small ; round ; yellow ; good for cooking. 
Spring and early Summer. S. Chadwick, Esq., Boscawen, 
N. H. Moderate grower, great bearer. 

166. Norfolk. Small; flat; yellow; pleasant. Spring 
and Summer. We had them fine in Aug., from Mr. Wm. 
Brown, Norfolk, Ms. Not well tested, but promising. 



APPLES FOR ORNAMENT, PRESERVES, CIDER. 137 

167. Table Greening. Medial; roundish; dull green; 
juicy, mild, pleasant. Spring and Summer. We have had 
them fine in Sept., the second year. Not well tested; dis- 
seminated widely for trial. Cornish, Me. 

We have some acquaintance with the last four ; they are 
very good for their season, and valuable for long keeping, 
but small, excepting the last. Their habits are not well 
known. The Northern Spy may keep so long, and succeed 
so well, as to be preferable. 

Apples for Ornament and Preserves. 

168. Red Siberian Crab. Extremely small ; rather flat; 
yellow and lively scarlet ; w r ith bloom ; stem long and slender. 
Ornamental, and for preserving. Sept. and Oct. 

169. Yellow Siberian Crab. This is rather larger than 
the red ; of a golden yellow ; ripens at the same time, and 
used for the same purposes. 

170. Large Red Siberian Crab. Much larger than the 
yellow ; roundish-ovate ; yellow and pale red. At same time 
and same purposes as the preceding. Foliage coarser than 
the others. 

171. Double Flowering Chinese Crab. Admired for its 
beautiful blossoms. The fruit is worthless. Tree 10 to 15 
feet high, and very ornamental. 

Cider Apples. 

172. Harrison. Medial ; ovate ; yellow ; rather dry, rich 
flavor, yielding excellent high-colored cider. Nov. and Dec. 
Great grower and bearer. We have seen 100 bushels on one 
tree, in Orange, N. J. 

173. Camfield, Newark Sweeting. Medial : roundish : 
greenish-yellow and red; rather dry. firm, rich and sweet. 
Tree large and productive. 

174. Cooper's Russeting. Small ; long-ovate ; yellow, 
with some russet ; dry, sweet, and rich. Nov. to Spring. 
Adapted to light soils. Excellent for cider and cooking. 

175. Hagloe Crab, is an English variety, not sufficiently 
tested here. Highly valuable for cider. 

176. Hewe's Virginia Crab. Quite small; and the tree 
is small, but a great bearer. Makes excellent cider. 

177. Red Streak. Medial ; rich, firm, and dry. A hand, 
some grower and great bearer. English. 

12* 



138 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



a <u 

Oh 

S 1 - 



13 



6 




2 


1 




1 


1 


1 




1 




1 


4 






2 


5 


1 




1 




1 


10 


1 


12 




7 


1 


11 


1 


4 


1 


6 


1 


9 


1 


5 


1 




2 to 3 



1 
1 

1 
1 

2 to 4 



TABLE OF APPLES, 

In order of ripening. (See page 11.) 

Summer Apples. 

White Juneating, July 10 to 30 

Early .Harvest, July 15 to Aug. 10 

Summer Sweet, <<<<<< u « 

Red Astrachan, " " " " " 

Early Red Margaret, « « « « « 

Red Quarrenden, " 25 " «■' 15 

Cole's Quince, Into Sept. 

Bevan, . • " " 

Sweet Bough, During Aug. 

Williams, " " 

Summer Rose, " " 

Early Strawberry, " " 

Benoni Aug. 12 to Sept. 15 

Founding " " " "30 

Dutchess of Oldenburg, " 15 " "15 

MonameJ Sweeting, " " " " " 

Golden Sweet, " 20 " "20 

Summer Pearmai n, Last of Aug. and Sept. 

Fall Apples. 

Richardson, Last of Aug. and Sept. 

Bars " " " " " 

Summer Bellflower,'. .' .' .' .' .' .' " " " " " 

Early Joe, Sept. 

Mexico, " 

St. Lawrence, " 

Garden Royal, '* 

Lorag Stem, Sept. and into Oct. 

Super6 Stceet, " " " " 

p or ; er " " " " 

Tufts's Baldwin, \ '. '. '. '. '. \ '. " " " " 

Fairbanks " " " " 

Fall Wine Sept. and Oct. 

Lowell, " " " 

Sassafras Siceeting, " " " 

Moses Wood, " " " 

Briggs's Auburn, " " " 

Jersey Sweeting, " " " 

heland Pippin, Sept. 15 and Oct. 

Fall Strawberry " " " " 

Gra^ens^ein, " " " " 

Pomme Royale, . • Last Sept. " " 

Chapmaa's Orange, Fall. 

Winthrop Pearmain, .... Last Sept. and into Nov. 

Magnolia, Oct. to middle of " 

Hawley, Oct. and Nov. 

Thompkins " " . " 

Jewett's Red, " " " 

Hubbardston Nonsuch " " " 

Maiden's Blush, " " " 



ArPLES. 



139 



TABLE OF APPLES, 

In order of ripening. (See page 11.) 



Fall Apples. 

Cooper, Oct. and Nov. 

Mother, Last of Oct. to Jan. 

Rambo, 

.FaWHarvey, 

Fall Fippin, 

Fameuse, 

Hurlbul 

Yellow Bellflower, Nov. to Jan. 

Belmont Late fall and early winter. 



2to4 
2 



Winter Apples. 

Meli-m Sweet, . • 'Late fall to mid winter. 

Vandevere, Last of Nov. to mid winter. 

Bailey's Golden Sweet, Last of Nov. to Feb. 

Stevens's Gilliflower " " " " " 

Rhode Island Greening. " " " " " 

Jonathan, " " " " " 

Melon Last of Nov. to March. 

Minister, " " " " " 

Peck's Pleasant, Early winter. 

Newtown Spitzenberg, " 

Danvers Winter Sweet, Winter. 

Ribson Pippin, 

Swaar, 

Old Nonsuch " 

Westfield Seek-no-further, " 

Brabant's Bellflower, " 

BaMirin, " 

Wines&p, " 

Leicester Sweetmg, _ 

Esopws Spitzenberg, Dec. to April. 

Winter Sweet Paradise, . . . Winter and early spring. 

Talman Sweeting, " " " " 

Woolman's Long, * " " " 

Lady Apple, " '.' " 

Domine, " " " " 

Ladies' Sweeting " " " " 

American Golden Russet, . . " " " " 

Seaver Sweet, " " " " 

Canada Renette, " " " " 

Am. White Winter Calville, . " " " " 

Newtown Pippin, Late winter and spring. 

Win Russet " "■ " 

Northern Spv Late winter, spring, and summer. 

Tewksbury Winter Blush, " " " " " 

Raule's Jenette. ..." " " " " 

Roxbury Russet, ..." " " " " 



140 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Summer Apples. Early Harvest is popular in the Middle 
Region. Red Astrachan is more promising here. 

Pall. Richardson, Summer Bellflower, Sassafras Sweeting, 
Hawley, Mother, and other new kinds, are of excellent quality, 
but not generally known as to their habits. 

Winter. Ladies' Sweeting, Northern Spy, and some others, are 
beautiful and excellent fruits, but have not been tried extensively. 
We have but few every way excellent for market. 

Ernst recommends Early Red Margaret, Sweet Bough, Prince's 
Early Harvest, Summer Rose, Fall Pippin, Newtown Spitzen- 
berg, Yellow Bellflower, Woolman's Long, (Detroit of the West,) 
Golden Russet, Broadwell, Winesap, Yellow Newtown Pippin. 

Kirtland and Elliott recommend the following varieties — 

Summer. For the Garden — Summer Rose, Early Harvest, Red 
Astrachan, American Summer Pearmain, Early Joe, Lowell. 
For Market — White Juneating, Red Astrachan, Early Harvest, 
Williams, Red Q,uarrenden, Lowell. 

Fall. For the Garden — Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Fall Straw- 
berry, Porarae Royale, Porter, Jersey Sweeting, Fameuse, Fall 
Harvey, Maiden's Blush, Rambo, Fall Seek-no-further, Fall 
Wine. For Market, we prefer these to showy inferior fruits. 

Winter. For the Garden — Belmont, Swaar, Old Nonsuch, 
Hubbardston Nonsuch, Jonathan, Peck's Pleasant, Rhode Island 
Greening, Putnam's Russet, (Roxbury Russet, Ed.,) Westfield 
Seek-no-further, Wine, Danvers Winter Sweeting, Wood's Green- 
mg, Tewksbury Winter Blush, Lady Apple, Fort Miami. For 
the Market, substitute the Baldwin for Danvers Winter Sweet, 
and the Hollow Crown Pearmain for Wood's Greening. 

The Pomological Convention at Buffalo, recommend, 
as first-rate, Early Harvest, Pomme Royale, Early Joe, Early 
Strawberry, Sweet Bough, Sine-Q,ua-Non, Summer Rose, Fa- 
meuse, Rhode Island Greening, Westfield Seek-no-further, Van- 
devere, Gravenstein, Esopus Spitzenberg, Beauty of the West, 
Fall Pippin, Late Strawberry, Swaar, Belmont, Mother Apple, 
Jonathan, Porter, Rambo, Hubbardston Nonsuch, American 
Golden Russet, Jersey Sweeting, American Summer Pearmain, 
Baldwin first-rate in Ms., and in N. Y., but not in O. 

The National Convention of Fruit Growers, at New 
York, recommend as first-rate, Early Harvest, Yellow Bough, 
American Summer Pearmain, Summer Rose, Early Strawberry, 
Gravenstein, Fall Pippin, Rhode Island Greening, Baldwin, 
Roxbury Russet. For Particular Locations, Yellow Bellflower, 
Esopus Spitzenberg, Newtown Pippin. 

Barry recommends, for Summer, Early Harvest, Early Straw- 
berry, Early Sweet Bough, Red Astrachan, Early Joe, Duchess of 
Oldenburg. For Fall, Hawley, Pomme Royale, Gravenstein, St. 
Lawrence, Fall Pippin. For Winter, Norton's Melon, (Melon,) 
Golden Reinette, Canada Reinette, Nonsuch, Seek-no-further, 
Esopus Spitzenberg, Swaar, Ladies' Sweeting, Northern Spy. 






THE PEAK. 



141 




THE PEAR, (Pyrus communis.) 

The pear is a tall tree, of upright 
growth, generally smaller than the 
apple, yet we have some specimens 
of a large size. It is a native of 
Europe and Asia, but not of Africa 
and America. In its original state, 
the fruit was austere and useless for 
the dessert. Gradual improvements 
have been made, so that it is now 
rich, melting and delicious, and in 
some of our finest kinds, it seems to 
be almost in a state of perfection. 
Yet constant improvements are going 
on, in the chance and artificial or 
scientific production of new varie- 
ties, furnishing many of the highest 
rank, adapted to all seasons and purposes. At present, the 
zeal for producing new kinds, and procuring and cultivating 
the best varieties, amounts, with some, to the ruling passion; 
and we are sure that the result will be a most abundant 
production and diffusion of the best of fruits throughout the 
land. 

Under favorable circumstances, the pear forms a large 
and long-lived tree. Some are said to be several hundred 
years old. A perry pear tree in Herefordshire, Eng., pro- 
duced 15 hogsheads of perry in one year. The branches 
bent down and took root, covering half an acre of land. 
The Endicott pear tree is still flourishing in Danvers, Ms. 
It was imported by Gov. Endicott, in 1628. 

Near Vincennes, 111., is a pear tree, 40 or 50 years old, 
that is 10 feet in circumference, and its branches extend 69 
feet. In 1834, it yielded 184 bushels. The original Har- 
vard pear tree is 9 feet in circumference. "We have a wild 
pear tree that is over 7 feet round, and that notable per- 
sonage, the " oldest inhabitant," cannot remember when 
it was much less. By good culture we have given it a start, 
and it has become young and vigorous. It is represented by 
the figure in the beginning of this article. It is the best type 
of the pear tree, of any very large and old tree, that we have 
seen. Some branches are bent with age and heavy crops. 



142 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

The pear tree is frequently uncertain ; sometimes dying 
early from heat, cold, or causes unknown, and in other cases 
living to a great age, attaining a large size, and producing 
enormous crops. Some varieties disappear after a few 
years, or linger along, mere cumberers of the ground, even 
with apparently the best attention, while others nourish, are 
productive, and live long under neglect, or bad management. 
In some cases, the apparently good care that pear trees 
receive, is like stuffing a child with sweetmeats, and shutting 
it up in a warm room. The fruit is still more uncertain, 
particularly the finest kinds, and more especially those of 
foreign origin. 

As some pears ripen in July and August, a great variety 
in the fall, several fine ones for winter, and a few for spring, 
we can have this delicious fruit in every season, though it is 
hardly seen in spring and early summer. Yet ere long the 
many new varieties will fill up this vacuity. 

Uses. The pear is a most delicious fruit for the dessert, 
and the finest kinds sell at enormous prices — $10 to $15 
per barrel, and at $1 or $2 a dozen. Some retail at 25 
cents each. Several varieties are highly valuable for pre- 
serves, marmalade, sauces, jellies, and for baking, boiling, 
stewing, &c. Some are excellent in pies and tarts. They 
are good for condiments and seasoning in various prepara- 
tions. The juice is expressed and prepared in the same way 
as cider from apples, and is called perry. It is of higher 
character, but of less body or strength. It makes a fine, 
pleasant vinegar. 

Soil and Location. These should be generally the same 
as for the apple, but the pear is more delicate, and will not 
bear the disadvantages of a dry or wet soil so well as the apple. 
Yet some few native kinds are remarkably hardy and will 
grow anywhere ; while most of the best foreign varieties, 
and some natives, need sheltered situations in cities or towns, 
as they dwindle and shortly disappear under common orchard 
culture and exposure. Side hills, or hills of moderate eleva- 
tion, are favorable locations. 

The pear requires a deep friable loam, rather moist, but 
neither wet nor dry, with a rather dry sub-soil, as its roots 
run deep ; yet a porous sub-soil is not good ; a hard pan is 
preferable. A deep yellow loam is excellent. The largest 
natural trees are on strong, moist soils. The original Har- 
vard tree is on a very hard, clayey soil, but elevated on a 



THE TEAK. 



143 



ridge. Our large tree is on a strong, moist yellow loam, 
inclining to marl, and around it we raise our best seedlings. 
As iron is beneficial to the pear, a ferruginous soil is favorable. 
We find it very vigorous on such soils. Different varieties 
require different soil, but the peculiar nature of each kind is 
not well ascertained. 

Propagation. The fine varieties are propagated by bud- 
ding and grafting, and for stocks, seedlings are generally 
used. Sometimes suckers have good roots and answer -well. 

Select seeds from vigorous trees, and the stocks will be 
the more thrifty. As soon as pears are rotten, mash 
them up and wash out the seeds, or wash the seeds from 
pomace before it ferments ; in both cases, clean the seeds as 
soon as possible after applying water to them. Partially dry 
them, so as to clean out the stems and other rubbish. Then 
sow, if ready ; if not, put the seeds into loam or fine sand, 
and keep moderately moist, in the cellar, or in a cool place 
out door, or buried in the ground, till sowing time, whether 
it be in fall, winter, or spring. Drying injures pear seed, 
but not apple seed ; but in both cases they must be kept 
moist through winter, or they will not vegetate. 

By washing pomace or mashed pears with much water 
and a little pomace, the seed will sink, and much of the 
pomace and mucilage, or thick matter, will float in the water, 
and may be turned off. Repeat the washing till the seed is 
clean. Drain and partially dry, in a day or so, and put in 
loam or sow immediately. 

Sowing seed in the fall is best, in case the spring be back- 
ward, and sowing delayed from wet weather, as the hot sun 
of June may kill the tender plants that start late. On the 
contrary, if the land be prepared in the fall, and there is a 
good chance to sow early in spring, on a newly ploughed 
soil, the trees will grow better, and the labor of hoeing will 
be less. The soil for raising seedlings should be a deep rich 
loam, rather moist, though They may be raised on any land 
in good condition. Any good tillage will generally produce 
good pear stocks, but moist land is best. 

Sow thick, in drills 12, 15, or 18 inches apart, or put double 
rows a foot apart, with 2 or 3 feet between. Some sow half 
apple seeds among the pears, and say that they will then 
stand out the first winter without being thrown out of the 
ground. The soil should be stirred often, especially in time 
of drought. 



144 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

If the plants, or pips, be transplanted when only a few 
inches high, it will check the tap root, and the little tree will 
throw out lateral roots, which will be a great advantage on 
transplanting, for, without this process, there will often be a 
long, smooth tap root, with no laterals to sustain the plant. 
The plants may be transplanted with a trowel, from one row 
to another, first preparing the vacant row by digging the 
soil up lightly. Or they may be moved from one piece of 
land to another. But a more expeditious mode is to let them 
stand till 4 or 5 inches high, and then cut off the tap root 
about 4 inches below the surface, with a sharp trowel. 

As the young pear trees, the first winter, are liable to be 
thrown out of the ground, or killed by severe cold, (one 
nurseryman lost 12,000 in one winter,) they should be pro- 
tected in the cellar, or buried in the ground. In the cellar 
they should be put into fine sand or yellow loam, in layers, 
the roots well covered, and the earth kept tolerably moist 
only. If kept wet, the roots will rot ; if too dry, they will die. 
We find the safest and most convenient way to cover them 
up about a foot deep, out door, in a light soil. (Page 49.) 

Set out pear stocks in nursery rows, in the same way as 
apple stocks, (page 84,) and in due time bud or graft in the 
same manner. In setting pear stocks, which often have a 
long tap root, without laterals, do not cut off the root, but 
put it down obliquely, in the manner of a cutting, turning the 
stock straight upward, when within 2 or 3 inches of the 
surface. Set on rather moist soil. By cutting off the tap 
root of pears, many of the fibrous roots are lost, and the tree 
is often lost or stinted. 

Pears on the Quince. Almost every kind of pear grows 
and bears well on the quince, and as they are thus made 
into dwarfs, most kinds produce finer specimens in this 
way than on their own bottoms ; and some European 
kinds will not succeed in any other way. There are several 
advantages in cultivating pears on quince stocks. They 
bear much earlier, (in this way new fruits may soon be 
tested,) usually produce larger and fairer fruit, bear more 
abundantly, and as this mode forms dwarfs, it affords the 
advantage of many kinds on small premises. Some pears on 
the quince come into full bearing in 2 or 3 years after set. 

Some slow growing kinds, like the Seckel, do not flourish 
well on the quince, excepting by double working, that is, by 
working a vigorous kind on the quince, and the slow grower 



THE PEAR. 



145 



on that, which gives it a more vigorous growth. Another 
improvement is by re-rooting, (page 47,) which not only 
adds to the growth of the pear, but to its longevity. 

There are. disadvantages in having the pear on the quince, 
unless re-rooting is effected, as the quince is short-lived, 
which of course brings the pear on it to an early termina- 
tion. A few years ago it was thought that the pear on the 
quince would last only 7 or 8 years, but in many cases they 
continue nourishing and productive for 20 years. For gen- 
eral orchard culture, and permanent produce, the pear stock 
should be preferred ; then large, durable, and productive trees 
may be formed. 

Planting-. Some vigorous kinds need to be two rods 
apart, yet few grow so large, and there is generally more 
profit in setting nearer. If a few are inclined to grow large, 
and they are superior to others around them, the others, 
after many years, in which they may have been profitable, 
may be removed, or head-in the branches. (Page 183.) 

Some of the vigorous, large kinds are 12 or 15 years in 
coming into bearing, and as much longer in coming into 
full bearing ; during this time a large amount of fruit may 
be produced on early bearing trees by close planting. 

Generally, a rod, to a rod and a half, is sufficient. On the 
quince, half a rod will suffice. We give the following as a 
successful and profitable mode of culture, both for early 
profit or quick return, and for the future. Set standard 



if i « 

• i • 
» • ; • • 


f s « 

ft ) ft 

■ • 1 ft ft 

1 


f ; 9 

• * 1 • • 


• • : • * 

i 

• i * 

it ' 4 


■ 
• 

* : • 

t ■ A 


• * 1 4 ft 
» : * 


• : • 

• « ; • ft 
■ 


T 

• 

ft ft 
* ft 

• 


1 ; 1 9 
♦ ■ ft 

• f • • • ' 


i • ; • 

4\ — ' — : 4 


• • • 

b = i 


* : « 

► : 4 



Large dots, standard trees. 
13 



Small dots, dwarfs. 



146 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

trees on pear stocks, two rods apart each way. Then set 3 
pears on the quince, to each square rod, as represented in 
the figure. By this system, there would be 40 standards and 
480 dwarfs to the acre. Each square rod is supposed to be 
divided into quarters, and a dwarf tree set in each quarter, 
excepting that next the standard, as represented by the 
square or rod in the lower corner of the figure, on the left. 

In two or three years, the dwarf trees will come into bear- 
ing ; and if they yield only a peck or a half bushel each, 
they would produce a valuable crop while the standards 
were coming forward ; and besides the profit, there would be 
much pleasure in having fruit early, and testing various 
kinds, instead of waiting 8, 10, 12, and sometimes 15 years, 
for standards to bear. When the trees interfere, the poorest 
should be shortened in, by cutting off the ends of the limbs, 
and removed when all the room is needed for the larger 
trees. There will be a great advantage in having a constant 
income after a very few years, and while the standards are 
attaining a good growth, so as to be productive. 

Culture and Manure. Good, thorough culture, and 
moderate manuring are necessary, but high culture should 
be avoided, as the pear under high culture is liable to blight. 
(Page 148.) Hence, the slow-growing varieties are more 
exempt from this malady than the vigorous kinds. From 
some experiments iron is a good manure for the pear, but a 
little is sufficient. Pieces of worthless old iron may be laid 
around the trees, or the refuse from the blacksmith's forge 
and shop, or from machine shops and founderies, may be used 
when iron is wanting in the soil. The land should be con- 
stantly tilled among pear trees, and the manure should be 
such as to give a moderate and constant growth. 

Stable manure, composted with peat or mud, is good for 
the main body on dry land, or with sand and gravel for 
moist land, and loam for a medial soil, or it is good for 
either. Besides these, use lime, ashes, salt, plaster, for high 
land ; charcoal and a few coal ashes, especially for wet, 
bone manure, soap-suds, sink water, night soil, &c, &c, 
made into compost. (Page 53.) The following table shows 
the composition of the ashes of the pear, and may give light 
as to manuring. Apply potash in wood ashes ; phosphate 
of lime in bone manure ; carbonic acid in charcoal and 
various manures. 



Potash, 

Soda, 

Chlorine, 

Sulphuric acid, . . . 
Phosphate of lime, . . 
Phosphate of peroxide ) 

iron, \ 

Carbonic acid, . . . 

Lime, 

Magnesia, 

Silex, 

Coal, 

Organic matter, . . . 



rHE PEAR. 


147 


the Ash of the Pear. 


Sap wood. 


Heart wood. 


Bark of the trunk. 


22.25 


26.94 


6.20 


1.84 






0.31 


0.21 


1.70 


0.50 


0.45 


1.80 


27.22 


20.40 


6.50 


0.31 


0.80 




27.69 


25.48 


37.29 


12.64 


13.14 


30.36 


3.00 


2.93 


9.40 


0.30 


0.30 


0.40 


0.17 


1.00 


0.65 


4.02 


5.00 


4.20 


100.25 


96.65 


98.50 



The root of the pear contains a much larger proportion 
of soda, some more chlorine, more phosphate of lime, less 
lime, less magnesia, and more silex. Wilder said that he 
had pears that cracked, and he applied a compost of iron 
dust and bone manure with surprising success. 

Pruning. (See page 57.) The pear needs but little prun- 
ing. Some may be necessary to give form ; and old 
stinted trees may be improved by this process applied mod- 
erately. Never prune much in one year, but rather a little 
annually. Do not cut much even in grafting, but take two 
or three years to change the top of a large tree, and then 
leave, at first, many little limbs and twigs, to keep the 
regular growth, and sustain the tree in its uniform progress. 

Blight. This general term is applied to various diseases 
or affections of trees that produce decay in a part or all of 
the tree. It is so vague that it is only another name for 
decline or death. It affects pear trees mostly, but cherry, 
apple, and quince trees are also liable to its effects. This is 
a prolific subject, and volumes have been written upon it, with 
but little profit. 

Frozen Sap Blight. When trees grow rapidly in fall, 
from warm wet weather, and there comes a sudden freeze 
upon the tender wood, they are liable to be injured or killed. 
And even in winter, in warm, sunny weather, the sap 
starts, and a sudden freeze may be destructive, more espec- 



148 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

ially if hot sunshine again succeed, while the tree is 
frozen. A late spring frost may produce sap blight. Cold 
weather in winter, when the ground is bare, may freeze 
deeply, and produce blight by freezing the roots, after a late 
and tender growth in the fall. We have seen many fruit 
trees killed in a single garden. The trees leaved out, blos- 
somed, and set fruit well, and died suddenly. The roots 
were affected. Rapid growing trees are most liable to frost 
blight. 

Insect Blight. The Scolytus jnjri attacks the shoots of 
trees, mostly pear, in June. The eggs are laid close to a 
bud ; as they are hatched, the grub penetrates the shoot, 
perforating and destroying it. The leaves wither suddenly, 
the wood shrivels and turns dark. The only remedy is to 
cut off the shoot immediately, several inches below the 
injury, and burn it. Barry thinks that other insects than 
the Scolytus suddenly destroy trees the latter part of sum- 
mer, when growing luxuriantly, in warm weather, in rich 
moist soils, and in sheltered situations. But many call 
this the 

Fire Blight. In summer, particularly in the hottest 
part, in extremely growing weather, pear and quince trees, 
of vigorous growth, are sometimes killed in their shoots and 
limbs, as suddenly as by an electric blast. Some attribute 
this to insects, and others to the hot sun. In several cases, 
insects of different sorts have been found in cases of blight, 
and wdrether a cause or consequence of the disease is not 
known. 

Atmospheric Blight. But we believe that a peculiar 
state of the atmosphere and weather produces blight in the 
pear and quince, which are too tender to endure a great 
degree of heat and sultriness, when in a tender, plethoric 
state. Springer and Ernst have similar views. 

In our early days, while living in the interior, where most 
farmers had a few pear trees growing in their orchards, 
generally in good soil, without culture or manure, we never 
saw a case of blight till we put pear trees in a rich garden, 
which all died of blight, while some of the same lot, set in a 
pasture, lived and flourished. Springer thinks the blight is 
caused by plethora or vegetable apoplexy. When he planted 
on rather poor soil, no blight. On rich soils his trees grew 
three times as fast, and blight killed them. Seckel and 
White Doyenne (St. Michael) grow moderately and do" not 
blijrht. 



THE PEAR. 149 

Remedy. Let the causes be what they may, all cultivators 
agree in the remedy. In must cases, blight, like the potato 
rot, is a disease of the circulation, and will soon affect the 
whole tree. And insects, worse still, spread from tree to tree. 
Cut off the affected part, as soon as possible, a foot or more 
below the affection, and burn it. If it spreads, cut again. 
Examine daily, and cut promptly, as this is important to 
success. 

Preventive. Set trees on new land, if convenient, or in 
pastures or fields that have been tilled none or little, select a 
good soil and location, cultivate well, manure moderately, 
and with a variety of materials, and give a regular moderate 
growth only. 

Insects are not very common on the pear. For slugs, 
sprinkle on strong dry wood ashes or freshly slacked lime. 
For aphides, use whale oil soap (page 73 ;) and this will be 
good for nearly all insects that infest the pear. For cater- 
pillars that spread webs over the trees, tear their nests in 
pieces, at an early stage, to prevent their extension. 

Uncertainty of Pears. The pear is an uncertain fruit. 
There is more or less trouble with it from the time the seeds 
are taken from the tree, till the fruit is ripened for eating. 
The seeds are liable to injury in the pears or pomace, and 
when cleaned out they are injured by drying, and still more 
by attempts to keep them partially moist. The seeds often 
fail. The young trees often blight even the first year. 
Sometimes a hot sun or other cause kills them all on dry 
land. We have known cases in which not a single tree has 
been raised from several quarts of good seed, sufficient for 
10,000 stocks. 

If left out the first winter, the young seedlings are often 
killed or thrown out of the ground. Sometimes seedlings, 
saved well till the second year, will not grow, and this is 
often the case at a more advanced stage, especially on dry 
land. Trees are often killed with blight, drought, heat, cold, 
or other cause, or they become stinted and unproductive. 

The fruit of many excellent kinds is very liable to blast or 
crack, or be injuriously affected by too wet or too dry soil, 
or by unfavorable seasons, or other adverse circumstances. 
It is difficult to grow them to perfection, and to gather at the 
right time, and ripen well. 

So that, as a general thing, it costs far more to raise pears 
than apples ; yet they are so delicious, that every one, who 
13* 



150 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

has land, should cultivate them, and carefully select the most 
hardy. We name the difficulties, that cultivators may meet 
and conquer them, and not be discouraged by them, for the 
difficulties are often the result of neglect or bad manage- 
ment. 

Gathering, Preserving, and Ripening. Most fruits are 
better for coming to full perfection on the tree, but the pear 
is generally best when gathered before perfectly mature, 
and ripened in the house. "When allowed to remain on the 
tree, till fully ripe, most varieties become dry and insipid. 
Some kinds need to be picked so early that they seem to be 
in their full vigor. A few only ripen best on the tree. 

In ripening in the house, a few only do better on exposure 
to light and air. Most kinds do better in close barrels, 
boxes, or in cotton batting, or other covering, and in the dark. 
Late pears should be kept in a cool cellar, not very damp, 
or in a cool room, where they will not freeze, and when the 
period of ripening approaches, which may be known, or 
may be indicated in the earliest specimens, carry them into 
a warm room or closet, about as warm as is comfortable for 
a family, and keep them close in a box or drawer, wrapped 
in cotton, or clean paper, cloth, <tec, till mellow. 

If kept in the cellar, or cold room, beyond the usual period 
of ripening, they will be dry and insipid ; and if brought 
forward too early, they will be too fresh and green. It 
requires as much skill to ripen pears as to raise them. Some 
kinds will be good if ripened in succession, as wanted, 
through the winter. The ripening room should be neither 
very dry nor moist. Winter pears should hang late on the 
tree, unless there is danger from frost, and they should be 
picked on a clear day ; and, in all cases, pears should be 
gathered and handled with the greatest care, to prevent 
bruising, which both induces decay, and renders the fruit 
inferior. 

Walker has made many nice experiments on keeping and 
ripening pears. 

Varieties. More than 800 kinds have been tried in this 
country, not one twentieth of which are worthy of cultiva- 
tion, unless one would spend his time and money in exper- 
iments. Most of these varieties are from Europe, and after 
all that has been done to ransack that vast country in search 
of new fruits, native pears of this country, far more valua- 
ble, have been neglected ; some have flourished and disap- 



SUMMER PEARS. 151 

peared, leaving not a trace behind. Scarcely a foreign pear 
can be found that has not some defection in tree or fruit, in 
orchard culture ; — even the famous Bartlett was much 
injured by the winter of 1847 — 8. Beurre Diet seldom comes 
to perfection. Napoleon, Easter Beurre, Duchess de Angou- 
leme, Maria Louise, and many others often fail by not 
ripening well, yet we have some foreign pears of the greatest 
excellence, particularly for mild climates, and for warm 
locations in the North ; and they afford the advantage of 
furnishing seeds for new varieties. 

We have a number of fine native pears, and are getting 
more, and there are many, even old trees, that have not yet 
been made public. Almost every year we collect some 
valuable native, and now have a number of new kinds on 
trial, that are very promising but not well tested. 

Amateurs have done much by the introduction of foreign 
pears, but some have compromised this advantage, in some 
measure, by too hastily recommending numerous kinds 
that are comparatively worthless, which has led to disap- 
pointment and discouragement. More attention to our best 
native pears will lead to improvement, and a fair trial of 
foreign kinds, by exposure in orchard culture, should precede 
their recommendation for general use. 

Some fine pears do well in sheltered locations, and are 
adapted to the garden, but are not profitable for general 
culture, while some hardy kinds, hardly so good in quality, 
are more profitable for general orchard culture. 

Summer Pears. 

1. Madeleine, Citron des Carmes. Rather small ; long tur- 
binate ; greenish lemon yellow, seldom a brownish cheek ; 
stem long, stout ; calyx small, nearly even with the surface ; 
flesh whitish, melting, juicy, of sweet delicate flavor. 25 July 
to August 10. Tree very vigorous and productive. The best 
very early pear, yet it is liable to blight in tree and very 
little in fruit. Does well both on the pear and quince. 
Ripen in the house. Foreign. (See outline, next page.) 

2. Striped Madeleine. Similar to above or a little better ; 
shorter ; striped ; tree less liable to blight. So says Man- 
ning. 

3. Summer Doyenne, Summer St. Michael. Small ; shaped 
like the white Doyenne ; smooth, clear yellow, seldom faint 



152 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



red ; flesh white, melting, juicy, of a 
sweet rich flavor. 10 or 15 of Aug. 
A good bearer. Of recent introduc- 
tion. 

4. Sugar Top, July Pear. Small 
medial ; roundish — turbinate ; bright 
yellow -, tender, sweet, rather dry and 
poor. Last July. Great bearer. 

5. Jargonelle, (of the English.) 
Rather large ; long 
pyriform ; greenish 
yellow, brown in the 
sun ; stem 2 inches, 
long, slender ; in a 
small basin ; yellow- 
ish white, coarse, 
juicy, pleasant fla- 
vor. Former part 
of Aug. Second 
rate, rots at the 
core, yet rather prof- 
itable for the mar- 
ket. New and bet- 
ter kinds will take 
its place. Ripens in 
the house. Better 
on the quince. 

6. Zoar Seedling. 
Medial : pyriform ; 
light yellow, beauti- 
ful red cheek ; crisp, 
juicy, sweet, spright- 
ly flavor. Aug. 5 
to 20. Elliott says 
nothing at its time 
excels it. Origin, 
Zoar, 0. Aug. 1 to 
5 there. 

7. Osband's Sum- 
mer, Summer Virgalieu. Small medial ; obovate ; clear yel- 
low, green dots, red cheek ; stem an inch long, stout, in a slight 
cavity ; calyx large, basin shallow, flesh white, juicy, of a 
rich sugary, slightly musky flavor. 10 or 15 to 30 Aug. 




SUMMER PEARS. 



153 



Popular in Western N. Y. Barry says, 
'•Invariably first-rate." Productive. Does 
equally well on pear or quince. We find 
it a good grower. Origin, near Palmyra, 
N. Y. 

8. Bloodgood. Small medial} turbinate 
to obovate ; yellow, 
nearly half russet, 
stem an inch long, 
medial, obliquely set ; 
calyx open, in slight 
depression ; melting, 
buttery, with a sweet, 
rich aromatic flavor ; 
musky skin. First- 
rate. Aug. 10 to 25. 
A moderate grower 
and bearer. Kipen 
in the house. One 
of the best early 
pears, particularly for 
the Middle States. In 
the North, generally 
good but variable. 
Best on rather dry 
soil. Origin. Long 
Island. 

9. Muskingum. 
Rather large ; round- 
ish to obovate ; green- 
ish yellow, with ma- 
ny dark specks, and 
much russet, seldom 
a brownish blush 
stem long, medial, in 
a narrow cavity ; ca- 
lyx slight, open, in a slight or with no depression ; flesh yel- 
lowish-white, very fine, tender, melting, juicy, of a sweet, 
high, aromatic flavor. 15 Aug. to 10th Sept. Native of O. 
We find it perfectly hardy here and a great grower. Prob- 
ably w r ell adapted to a still more northern culture. 

10. Moyamensing. Large medial ; roundish-oval ; lemon 
yellow ; melting, buttery, well flavored. Latter part of 
Aug. and 1st of Sept. Origin, Philadelphia. 




154 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

11. Julienne. Medial; obovate; bright yellow; sweet 
and pleasant. Latter part of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Varying 
from almost first to second-rate. Great bearer. Pretty good 
for market. Ripen in the house. Foreign. 

12. Belle of Brussels. Rather large ; pyriform ; light 
yellow ; melting, juicy, sweet. Latter part of Aug. Great 
grower and bearer. Worthless here, but rather popular in 
Western N. Y., and in some sections of the West. 

13. Dorr. Large ; obtuse-pyriform ; pale yellow, broad 
reddish blush ; stem an inch long, rather stout, in a slight 
depression; calyx large, open, in a narrow, rather deep 
basin ; flesh rather coarse and dry, but sweet and pleasant. 
For cooking and eating. Latter part of Aug. As it is very 
hardy, a great grower and bearer, large, fair, and handsome, 
it is profitable for the market. Origin, N. H. 

14. Bezi Blanc. Similar to Bartlett in size, form, and 
color ; hardly so good, but it is a fortnight earlier. Aug. 15 
to 30. Foreign. 

15. Rostiezer. Small ; pyriform ; yellowish-green ; much 
russet, dark brown cheek ; stalk very long, slender ; calyx 
open, in slight depression ; melting, extremely juicy, of a 
rich, sweet aromatic flavor. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. 
One of the best summer pears ; rather small for market. 
Prodigious grower, and great bearer. (See last page.) 

16. Wadleigh. Rather small ; rounaish-obovate ; yellow j 
stem short, stout ; slight, plaited basin ; melting, tender, very 
juicy, of a delicious flavor. One of the best in its season. 
Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. We find it hardy and vigor- 
ous. New. Origin, N. H. 

17. Windsor, Bell in N. England. Rather large; bell- 
shaped; yellowish-green, tinted with orange in the sun; 
coarse at the core, tender, sweet, rather astringent. Poor. 
Last of Aug., 1st Sept. Great grower and bearer. 

18. Summer Frank Real. Rather small ; obovate ; green- 
ish yellow, brownish dots ; stem short, thick, in a slight cav- 
ity ; a small furrowed basin ; flesh rather rough, tender, 
melting, sugary. Last of Aug., 1st. of Sept. Succeeds on 
the quince or pear. Foreign. 

19. Tyson. Medial ; short pyriform ; light yellow, russet 
patches, red in the sun ; stem medial, set on a point ; basin 
broad and shallow ; flesh white, melting, very juicy, sweet, 
with a very delicious aromatic flavor. Latter part of Aug., 
1st of Sept. The original tree in Jenkinstown, Pa., is 6 feet 
round. (See cut on the following page.) 



SUMMER PEARS. 

20. Dearborn's Seedling. Small ; turbi- 
nate ; stem an inch long, in a slight cavity ; 
shallow basin ; very smooth, yellow, minute 
dots, a little russet around the stem ; flesh 
white, juicy, melting, of a sweet, sprightly 
flavor. Aug. 20 to Sept. 
10. Hardy, vigorous, 
and productive. Origi- 
nated by Gen. H. A. S. 
Dearborn, Roxbury, Ms. 

21. Osborn. Rather 
small ; obtuse pyriform ; 
bright yellow, with 
brownish specks ; stem 
stout, obliquely set ; 
calyx small, slightly 
sunk ; flesh white, ten- 
der, melting, juicy, of 
a sweet, lively, aromatic 
flavor, with slight astrin- 
gency. Aug. at Cincin- 
nati. Vigorous. Orig- 
inated by Mr. John Os- 
born, Economy, la. 
Ranked among the best 
early pears, and Ernst 
thinks that it will sus- 
tain this character, but 
he has fruited it only 
one year. 

Note. The last seven 
kinds, excepting No. 17, 
the Windsor, are all very 
fine, and excellent for 
the private garden ; but 
as the wind-falls of the 
Bartlett are in market 
by the time these kinds 
are well ripened, they 
are not profitable for 
market, owing to their 
small size. 



155 




156 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Fall Pears. 

22. Muscadine. Medial ; roundish-obovate ; yellowish 
green, brown dots ; stalk medial, in a small cavity ; shallow 
basin ; melting, buttery, of a pleasant, rich, musky flavor. 
Former part of Sept. Fine quality. Ripen in the house. 
Origin, near Newburgh, N. Y. 

23. Beurre de Amalis. Large ; 
obovate : yellowish-green, reddish- 
brown cheek, patches of russet ; 
stem in a shallow cavity j shallow 
basin} rather coarse and astringent, 
but melting, 
buttery, jui- 
cy, rich, and 
pleasant. 
Sept. 1st to 
20th. Ripen 
mostly on the 
tree. Produ- 
ces a large 
amount of 
fair fruit. 



V 



24. Bartlett, Wil- 
liam's Bonchretien. Very 
large ; obtuse pyri- 
form ; smooth, lemon 
yellow, with a reddish 
blush, full in the sun ; 
stalk medial length, 
stout, in a shallow de- 
pression ; calyx large, 
open, in a very shallow 
basin ; flesh white, fine 
texture, very juicy, of a sweet, perfumed, 
vinous flavor. Sept. 1st to Oct. 1st. Ripen 
best in the house. This pear, owing to its 
great growth, early and great bearing, large, 
handsome, and excellent fruit, ranks the 
highest of all pears. Yet some others 
exceed it in quality. It grows poorly from 
the ground, and never makes a large tree ; 
but it grows rapidly on a standard, for a 
short time only, as early bearing checks it. 
It is affected in this region by hard winters. 
Hardy, native kinds are better adapted to 
a more northern climate. Pinneo says it 
fails from cold winters there 



FALL PEARS. 



157 



25. St. Ghistlain. Medial ; pyriform ; clear yellow, seldom 
a red tinge ; stem li| inch long, slender, melting, buttery, 
juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Sept. Rather 
variable; when perfect, first-rate. Hardy, vigorous, and 
productive. Fine for the private garden. Too small for 
market. Ripen in the house. Foreign. 

26. Wilbur. Large medial ; oval-obovate ; green and 
russet ; melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant ; varying from almost 
first to second rate. Sept. Origin, farm of Mr. D. Wilbur, 
Somerset, Ms. 

27. Pratt. Large medial; obovate ; greenish-yellow, 
many dots, and russet patches ; stem slender, in a rather shal- 
low cavity ; broad shallow basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, 
tender, very juicy, of a delicious saccharine flavor. Among 
the best. Middle of Sept. A new variety, originated in 
Johnson, R. I. 

28. Golden Beurre of Btlboa. Large ; obovate ; bright 
yellow, brown dots, a little russet ; stalk long, slim, in mod- 
erate cavity; slight basin ; flesh white, fine, melting, buttery, 
of a rich vinous flavor. Excellent, but not so profitable for 
the market as the Bartlett. Does best on the quince. Sept. 
A good bearer. Origin, Spain. 

29. Knight's Seedling. Rather large ; obovate ; yellowish 
pale green ; grayish specks ; stem medial ; broad, shallow 
basin ; melting, juicy, sweet, rich, aromatic. Sept. Mr. 
Wm. Knight, Cranston, R. I. One of the best. 

30. Brandywine. Medial; short-pyriform ; yellowish- 
green ; dots, and patches of russet ; melting, of a sweet, rich, 
excellent flavor. 10 to last of Sept. Very thrifty and pro- 
ductive. Origin, Chaddsford, Pa. 

31. Stevens's Genesee. Large ; roundish-obovate ; yel- 
low ; stalk short, stout, in a slight cavity ; calyx short, in a 
rather shallow basin ; flesh white, tender, rather buttery, of 
a rich, excellent aromatic flavor. 15th Sept. to Oct. A 
monstrous grower, and good bearer. One of the most val- 
uable in the Middle and Western States, but little cultivated 
in N. England, and it seems inclined to blast a little here. 
Tree liable to blight anywhere. Origin, farm of M. F. Ste- 
vens, Lima, N. Y. 

32. Washington. Small medial; oval-obovate; bright 
yellow, ruddy cheek, and red spots ; stem medial, slender, 
slight cavity; shallow basin; flesh white, fine, melting, 
sweet, delicious, and perfumed ; uniformly good. Sept. 10 

14 



158 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



to Oct. Rather small for market. Fine for 
the amateur, particularly further south. 
Small grower, good bearer. Beautiful fruit. 
Origin, Gen. Robertson's estate, Del. 

33. Gansei/s Bergamot, Brocas Berga- 
mot. Large ; flattish-obovate ; greenish yel- 
low j spots of rus- 
set and dark green, 
a tinge of red, full 
in the sun ; stalk 
short, thick, in a 
moderate cavity ; 
broad deep basin ; 
rather coarse, melt- 
ing, juicy, of a 
rich, sweet, aro- 
matic flavor. Lat- 
ter part of Sept. 
Excellent in warm 
rich soils, but rath- 
er hard to raise, as 
it is a slow grower 
and moderate bear- 
er. Adapted to 
the private garden. 
Origin, England. 
Requires double- 
working on the 
quince. 




34. Belle Lucrative. Fon- 
dante de Automne. Medial; 
round-obovate ; pale yellow- 
ish green, slight russet ; stalk 
medial, stout, obliquely set in 
a slight cavity ; calyx open, 
in a moderate depression ; 
flesh melting, extremely jui- 
cy : of a rich, honeyed, aro- 
matic flavor Latter part of 
Sept. In a warm soil and 



-vyi/v/^ 



favorable season, it has no superior, but it varies. Hardy, 
and good bearer. Does not blight nor crack. Poorer in 
moist soil. Not well tested in orchard culture. Foreign. 

35. Frederic de Wurtemberg. Large ; pyriform ; deep 
yellow, crimson cheek ; stalk an inch long, stout ; calyx 
large, open, in a shallow basin ; flesh white, melting, very 
juicy, sweet, and pleasant. Pretty good for market, 
ter part of Sept. A good bearer. Rather variable, 
often worthless. Foreign. 

36. Trescott. Medial ; roundish -obovate ; orange 
low ; cinnamon blotches ; fine-grained, melting, juicy, 
pleasant saccharine flavor. 15 to last of Sept. Farm of 
Mr. Niles Trescott, Cranston, R.I. — Eaton, in Horticulturist. 



Lat- 
and 

yel- 
of a 



FALL PEARS. 159 

37. Abbott. Medial ; oblong-obovate ; green, scarlet 
cheek ; melting, of a sprightly saccharine flavor. 15 to last 
of Sept. Raised from seed by Mrs. Thomas Abbott, Provi- 
dence, R. I. — Eaton, in Horticulturist. 

38. Leech's Kingsessing. Rather large ; obovate ; sea- 
green, patches of dark green ; flesh rich, buttery, of delicate 
flavor. Latter part of Sept. Origin by Isaac Leech, King- 
sessing, near Philadelphia. 

39. Harvard, UEpergne. Large; long-pyriform ; rus- 
sety yellow, brownish red cheek ; stalk stout, obliquely set 
in a narrow cavity ; narrow basin ; flesh white, melting, 
juicy, of excellent flavor, but liable to rot at the core, if not 
picked early. Sept. 10 to Oct. 5. Almost first-rate, and a 
valuable market fruit, being a great grower, forming a large 
tree, and producing enormous crops. (Pages 28, 141.) But 
it comes in when pears and peaches are abundant, and it 
requires 15 or 16 years to come into bearing. 

40. Long Green, Mouth Water, Verte Longue. Rather 
large ; long-pyriform ; green, many dots and specks ; stem 
an inch long, set obliquely ; scarcely a basin ; flesh white, 
tender, very juicy, of a sweet, excellent flavor. 10 Sept. 
into Oct. A slow grower, but very productive, hardy, and 
one of the best old varieties, and but few new ones excel it. 
Succeeds well on the quince. 

41. Cushing, Hanners. Rather large ; obovate ; green- 
ish-yellow, red in the sun ; stalk medial, shallow basin ; flesh 
white, fine, melting, buttery, hardly first rate. Sept. 10 to 
Oct. 10. Very hardy, slow grower, great bearer. Origin, 
Hingham. Hanners (origin, Boston) probably the same. 

42. Ananas. Medial ; roundish-obovate ; yellow, tinge 
of red ; melting, delicious. Excellent. From Sept. 1 into 
Oct. So says Barry. Does well on the quince. Foreign. 

43. Henry 4th. Small medial ; roundish, flattened at 
the eye ; greenish yellow ; rather coarse, melting, juicy, of 
a rich, perfumed flavor. Sept. 10th to Oct. Good bearer. 
Too small for market. Foreign. 

44. Capsheaf. Medial ; roundish-obovate ; yellow, cin- 
namon russet ; melting, juicy, rather puckery. Sept. and 
into Oct. A good grower, and great bearer. Origin, R. I. 

45. Dunmore. Large ; long-obovate ; greenish, dots and 
specks of red russet ; flesh whitish, very melting, buttery, of 
a rich pleasant flavor. Sept. 10 and into Oct. Good grower, 
great bearer. Fruit varying from almost first-rate to insipid 



160 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

46. Flemish Beauty. (See frontispiece.) Large; obo- 
vate ; roughish, pale yellow, with marbling of light russet, 
brownish in the sun ; stalk 1£ inches long, in a narrow 
cavity ; calyx open, in a small basin ; flesh yellowish-white, 
little coarse, melting, juicy, with a rich saccharine, musky 
flavor. Sept. into Oct. Gather rather early and ripen in 
the house ; sometimes good nearly ripened on the tree. In 
an open situation and warm soil, it comes up to a high 
state, and ranks among the best. Great grower, and bearer. 

47. Edwards's Elizabeth. Medial ; pyriform ; lemon- 
yellow ; buttery, of a fine vinous flavor. Sept. 15th, and 
into Oct. Gov. Edwards, of Ct., raised several seedlings, 
and this is one of the best. 

48. Hull. Medial ; obovate ; yellowish-green, much 
russet, rather coarse, melting, juicy, sweet, pleasant. Sept. 
15 and into Oct. Origin, Swansey. A different fruit has 
recently been shown as the Hull. Yellow, with a red cheek. 

49. Rousselet de Rheims. Small ; obovate ; yellowish- 
green, brownish-red and russet specks in the sun; stalk 
rather long, set without any depression ; full at the calyx ; 
flesh breaking, sweet, rich and aromatic. Latter part of 
Sept. Foreign. 

50. Paradise de Automne. Large; pyriform; dull 
yellow, much bright russet ; stem 1£ inches long ; shallow 
basin; rather coarse, melting, of a rich, sprightly, perfumed, 
delicious flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct. New and promis- 
ing, excellent in growth, production and quality. Foreign. 

51. Belle et Bonne. Large, roundish; pale yellow; 
coarse, tender, sweet, pleasant. Second-rate. Last of Sept. 
A great bearer, and pretty good for market. Foreign. 

52. Williams's Early . Small medial ; obovate ; yellow ; 
crimson cheek ; melting, juicy, rich, sugary, and excellent. 
Last of Sept. and into Oct. Good grower, great bearer. By 
Mr. A. D. Williams, Roxbury, Ms. 

53. Eyewood. Rather small ; flat ; yellowish-green, 
specks of greenish russet ; tender, juicy, of a rich acid 
flavor. Varies from excellent to poor. Latter part of Sept. 
and into Oct. Vigorous and productive. Foreign. 

54. Adams. Small ; roundish-obovate ; deep yellow, 
russet patches ; rather coarse, melting, tender, juicy, of a 
pleasant aromatic flavor. Latter part of Sept. to 15 Oct. A 
good grower, great bearer. Nearly first-rate. Origin, 
Quincy. 



FALL PEARS. 



161 



/ 



55. Andrews, Armory, Gibson. 
(Dotted Outline.) Large ; pyriform ; 
yellowish-green, dull red cheek, few 
dots ; stem an inch long, set on a 
crumpled end, calyx open, 
in a deep basin ; flesh 
greenish-white, melting, 
very juicy, with an excel- 
lent spicy, vinous flavor. / y""*\ 
15 Sept. to 15 Oct. Tree 
hardy, a good grower and 
great bearer. It requires! 
high culture to bring the! 
fruit to perfection, and[ 
then it is 
almost first- 
rate, but va- J 
riable. Ripen 
pretty well on 
the tree. Na- 
tive of this 
vicinity. Ives 
says that on 
his (sandy 
loam) soil, it 
is among the 
best of native 
pears. Pin- 
neo says that 
in that (north- 
ern) region, 
it does not 
ripen well. 



re B 



os c 



s s 



/ f 



56. BeurreBosc. Large; 
pyriform, tapering almost to 
a point • rough, dark yellow 
ground, mostly cinnamon 
russet ; slight red in the sun ; 
stalk long, medial, curved; 
calyx small, in a shallow 
basin ; flesh white, melting, 
buttery, with a rich delicious 
flavor, slightly perfumed. 
Sept. 15 and Oct. Rather 
slow grower and moderate 
bearer; hence not profitable 



/ 



for market. Fruit uniformly good, and of the highest char- 
acter. Should be double-worked on the quince. Foreign. 

57. Chelmsford. Large ; pyriform ; deep yellow, bright 
red cheek ; flesh white, crisp, saccharine. Second-rate. Good 
for stewing. Good grower, great bearer. 1st ol Oct. Native 
14* 



162 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



/ 



/ 



58. Seckel, New York Red 
Cheek. (Dotted Outline.) 

Small 5 obovate ; yellowish- 
brown, russet red cheek ; stalk 
short, in a slight basin ; flesh 
whitish, melting, / 

buttery, very jui- / 

cy, of a sweet, 
rich, spicy, lus- 
cious flavor. Gen- 
erally considered 
the very best. 
Some prefer a 
more vinous fla- 
vor. Last of Sept. 
and Oct. Hardy, 
slow grower, great 
bearer. Needs 
high culture. Does 
not grow well on 
the quince. Ernst 
has raised fine 
specimens on the 
mountain ash, and 
the largest he ever 
saw were from a 
tree on a thorn 
root. It does bet 
ter on the apple 
than other kinds. 
The fruit is larger, 
but poorer. 



\ \ 



W' 



r\ 



\ 



\ 



_,."' 



59. Louise Bon de Jersey. 
Large ; pyriform ; smooth, pale 
green, brownish-red in the sun, 
numerous large gray dots ; stalk 
an inch long, curved, set obliquely, 
without depression ; calyx open, 
in a shallow basin ; flesh greenish- 
white, melting, very juicy, of a rich 
and excellent flavor, as good as 
the Bartlett. Last of Sept. and 
Oct. For hardiness, growth, pro- 
duction, uniform fairness, and ex- 
cellence, this fruit is very promis- 



ing. Does well on the quince. Foreign. 

60. Heathcot. Medial ; obovate ; lemon-yellow, a little 
russet, slight brown in the sun ; stem stout, obliquely set in 
a small cavity ; narrow, shallow basin ; melting, buttery, 
juicy, of a sprightly vinous flavor. Last of Sept. and Oct. 
Hardy, thrifty, moderate bearer. Gov. Gore's garden, 
Walthani. Ms. 



FALL PEARS. 163 

61. Jalousie. Rather large; short pyriform; deep rus- 
set, ruddy in the sun ; sweet and pleasant. Second-rate. 
Oct. 1st. Great bearer, fruit very fair. Good for market. 

62. Watertown. Rather large ; roundish-ovate ; pale- 
yellow, patches of russet, slight blush in the sun ; stem short, 
stout ; flesh very tender, melting, juicy, sub-acid, luscious. 
Last of Sept. and Oct. Though not first-rate, it may be val- 
uable, as it is hardy, vigorous, productive. Watertown, Ms. 

63. Bon Cretien Fondante. Rather large ; roundish- 
oblong ; pale green ; very juicy, melting, rich, delicious 
flavor. Almost first to second-rate. Oct. Foreign. 

64. Capiumont. Large medial ; rather long-turbinate j 
clear yellow, cinnamon specks ; flesh fine, melting, buttery, 
sweet, pleasant. Oct. A good grower, great bearer in all 
seasons and soils ; apt to crack, rot, and be astringent. 

65. Surpass Virgalieu or Virgalouse. Rather large j 
obovate ; lemon-yellow, pale blush full in the sun ; flesh 
yellowish- white, fine, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, 
delicious, aromatic flavor. Oct. Vigorous and good bearer. 
Equal to old St. Michael or White Doyenne. Origin traced 
to Parmenters nursery, Brooklyn, N. Y. 

66. King Edward. Large ; pyriform ; yellow ; melting, 
buttery. Oct. Often poor and puckery. 

67. Beurre Van Marum. Large; pyriform; yellow, 
seldom a red tinge ; melting, juicy, sweet, and pleasant. 
Oct. Popular in some parts of the West. Foreign. 

68. Brown Beurre. Large; long-obovate ; yellowish- 
green, russet, and reddish-brown in the sun ; melting, but- 
tery, very juicy, with a high sub-acid vinous flavor, admired 
by a few men, and disliked by most women and children. 
Oct. Very uncertain, especially in the North. Liable to 
crack. Best on the quince, and trained in a warm location. 
Bad grower, poor bearer. Foreign. 

69. Bezi de Montigny. Medial ; obovate ; yellowish- 
green ; melting, juicy, of a sweet musky flavor. Oct. Re- 
sembles Unbaniste, and almost as good. Foreign. 

70. Compte de Lamy. Small; roundish-obovate ; yel- 
low, red cheek ; fine, melting, buttery, sweet, delicious. 
Oct. Better on the quince. 

71. Oliver's Russet. Rather small ; nearly obovate ; 
yellow, mostly cinnamon russet ; melting, juicy, of a rich, 
sweet aromatic flavor. Oct. Vigorous and productive. 
Rather small for market. By Mr. J. P. Oliver, Lynn, Ms. 



164 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



72. Buffum. Medial ; f m 

long-obovate ; yellow, with v 
thick specks and patches of 
red and russet in the sun ; 
stem short, thick, in a slight 
cavity ; calyx small, open, in 
a small basin ; flesh white, 
melting, tender, juicy, with a 
fine spicy flavor. 
Varying from al- 
most first to sec- 
ond-rate ; gen- 
erally good. 
A good, upright 
grower and great * 
bearer, and one • 
of the most val- c 
uable and sala- S 
ble orchard I 

pears. Raised I 
by David Buf- V. 
fum, Newport, \ 
R. I., from a 
seed of St. Mi- 
chael, which it 
resembles. 



Buffum. 



,••**" 



73. 

hue.) 
round 



Fulton. (Dotted Out- 
Small medial ; flattish- 
j cinnamon russet ; stem 
rather long, slim, in a narrow 
cavity ; calyx open, in shallow 
uneven basin ; flesh white, 
tender, rather juicy, of a sweet, 
sprightly, pleasant flavor ; very 
salable, as it is uniformly fair 
and good. A good grower and 
great bearer, and very hardy ; 
it is one of the best pears for 



orchard culture in the North. Oct. and into Nov. Ripen 
in the house. Origin, farm of Mrs. Fulton, Topsham, Me. 

74. Maria Louise. Rather large ; long-pyriform, one- 
sided ; yellow, much light russet in the sun ; stalk 1^ inches 
long, set obliquely with little or no cavity ; calyx small, in a 
narrow plaited basin ; flesh white, melting, very buttery, 
with a rich saccharine and vinous flavor. Oct. and into 
Nov. It varies from first-rate to poor. Apt to crack in 
N. England, and is very uncertain. It succeeds well in the 
Middle States, and in the West. A bad grower from the 
ground. Good bearer. Louisa Bon de Jenny is preferred. 
Foreign. 

75. Petre. Large medial ; obovate ; pale yellow, some 
greenish russet ; fine, melting, buttery, of a high perfumed 
flavor. Oct. and Nov. Slow grower, good bearer. Origin, 
Philadelphia. 



FALL PEARS. 



165 



76. Swan's Orange, Onondaga. Very large ; long-obo- 
vate ; smooth, golden yellow, russet specks, tinged with light 
red in the sun ; stem an inch long, stout, curved, set oblique- 
ly in a slight cavity : calyx small, close, in a small basin ; 
flesh white, fine, melting, very juicy, rich sub-acid, 
aromatic flavor, but hardly first quality ; or varying from 
nearly first to second-rate. Oct. and into Nov. Tree hardy, 
vigorous, and a great bearer. As it combines many excel- 
lences, it is regarded as one of the best. Origin, farm of Mr. 
Curtis, Farmington, Ct., whence a graft was carried to Onon- 
daga, N. Y.; there propagated, and lately disseminated. 




77. White Doyenne, 
Virooulouse, St. Michael 
of N. England, Virga- 
lien of New York, But- 
ter Pear of Pennsylva- 
nia. (Dotted Outline.) 
Rather large ; obovate ; clear pale yel- 
low, with small dots ; a red cheek, full in 
the sun ; stalk an inch long, stout, in a 
small cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow, 
finely plaited basin ; flesh white, fine 
texture, melting, very buttery, of a rich, 
high, delicious flavor. Oct. and into Nov. 
Many regard this pear as a standard of 
excellence ; many others prefer the Seckel. 
It is perfectly hardy in tree and fruit, and 
first-rate in quality, in the Middle and 
"Western States, in western N. Y., and in 



Swan's 



/ 




166 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



the region of Baltimore ; but it generally blasts and cracks 
in N. England, on the sea-coast, yet it still flourishes in the 
interior. Where uncertain, it does better on the quince. 

78. Napoleon. Rather large ; obtuse-pyriform j greenish 
pale-yellow, deeper in the sun, sometimes a red tinge ; stem 
rather short, rather stout, in a slight depression ; basin of 
moderate depth ; flesh whitish, coarse, melting, extremely 
juicy, of a sprightly, slight acid, delicious flavor. Oct. and 
Nov. Sometimes excellent, but rather late and uncertain in 

yv^ this region, excepting in 

warm soil and locations. 

Better further south. Does 

well on quince or pear. 

Ripen in a warm room. 

Foreign. 



**0 



**w. 



X 



\ 



\ 



f 



V 



79. Urbaniste. (Dotted Outline.) \ 
Rather large ; obovate, inclining to > 
pyramidal ; smooth, pale yellow, 
gray dots, and a little russet ; stalk 
short, stout, a broad basin ; calyx 
small, in a narrow cavity ; flesh 
white, melting, buttery, very juicy, of 
a rich, delicious, peculiar, perfumed 
flavor. Oct. and Nov. Hardy, a 
moderate grower and bearer, and 
one of the best. It resembles the 
White Doyenne, which has failed 
in some sections. Cabot, after 
long experience, recommends this 

y 
— iws 

Napoleon. 



as one of the surest and best for general culture. Long in 



FALL TEARS. 167 

coming into bearing on the pear stock. Flourishes double- 
worked on the quince. Foreign. 

80. Beurre de Avjou. Large medial ; obovate greenish- 
yellow, a little russet ; flesh whitish, fine, buttery, with a 
rich, sprightly, vinous, sub-acid flavor. Oct. and Nov. New, 
fine, and promising. Vigorous and productive. Foreign. 

81. Hancon's Incomparable. Large medial; roundish; 
obovate ; yellowish-green, with pale brown and russet spots 
and patches ; melting, buttery, of a pleasant vinous flavor. 
Oct., Nov. Foreign. 

82. Van Mons Leon le Clerc Large ; oblong-obovate ; 
pale greenish-yellow, mingled with brown, slight russet near 
the stalk ; stem rather long and stout ; set obliquely, with a 
slight cavity ; calyx small, in a shallow basin ; flesh yellow- 
ish-white, melting, buttery, with a rich sweet flavor. Vary- 
ing from nearly first-rate to second-rate. Oct. and Nov. 
Very liable to canker in wood and blast in fruit. It has been 
rated too high. Moderate grower and great bearer. Does 
best on the quince. Foreign. 

83. Calhoun. Medial ; obovate ; pale yellow, pale red 
in the sun ; melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Last of 
Oct. By Gov. Edwards. 

84. Bishop's Thumb. Rather large ; long, narrow, taper- 
ing much ; yellowish-green ; melting, juicy, of a pleasant 
flavor. Last of Oct. Hardly first-rate. Foreign. 

85. Queen of the Low Countries. Large ; pyriform ; 
yellow, beautiful red in the sun ; stalk long, curved, no 
depression ; flesh melting, juicy, pleasant vinous. Not first- 
rate. Last of Oct. Foreign. 

86. Thompson. Medial; obovate; lemon-yellow, little 
russet ; melting, buttery, of a rich, sugary flavor. Last of 
Oct. and Nov. Foreign. 

87. Gray Doyenne, Doyenne Gris, Doyenne Boussouck. 
Resembles White Doyenne ; more round ; much cinnamon 
russet ; little later and better. Rich cinnamon flavor. 
Latter part of Oct. and Nov. Esteemed in New York. It 
blasts in the east ; also in northern 0. 

88. Bleecker's Meadow. Small medial ; roundish ; yellow, 
crimson in the sun ; flesh firm, with a high musky fragrance 
and spicy flavor. Excellent for cooking, some like its flavor for 
eating. Nov. A great grower and good bearer. Origin, Pa. 

89. Figue. Large medial ; pyriform ; greenish, russet 
patches, dull red in the sun ; rather coarse, melting, rich, 
sweet brisk flavor. Nov. Foreign. 



168 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



90. Dix. (Dotted Outline.) Large ; pyriform ; golden 
yellow, with dots and patches of russet, and a red tinge in 
the sun ; stem medial length, thick at each end, set obliquely 
in a slight depression ; calyx small, in a slight basin ; flesh 
a little coarse, melting, juicy, of a rich, sugary, Champagne 
flavor ; with a fine aroma. Last of Oct. and into Dec. One 
of the most splendid and excellent of all pears, when perfect, 

selling at enor- 
mous prices of 
$2 per dozen, 
and one tree pro- 
duced $47 worth 
at one crop ; yet 
one of the most 
uncertain of all 
pears. In light 



°f 



/ 



S~ 




/ soils it generally cracks and 
blasts, and often on strong moist 
soils. On the pear it is gener- 
ally 12 or 16 years in coming 
into bearing, and then bears 
sparsely for some years. Very 
hardy, good grower. It does 
well double -worked on the 
quince, and bears earlier. Ori- 
gin, the estate of Madam Dix, 
Boston. 

91. Vicar of Winkfield, 
Clion of Kennck, Monsieur le 
Cure, Bourgermester incorrectly, 
of some ; Very large ; long 



W"— *>* 



FALL PEARS. 



169 



pyriform 5 pale yellow brown, full in the sun ; stem 1| 
inches long, slender, obliquely set without cavity; slight 
basin ; flesh greenish-white, coarse, juicy, sometimes of a 
pleasant lively flavor. Excellent for cooking ; for the des- 
sert, varying from pretty good to second-rate. Nov. to Jan. 
Ripen in close boxes, in a warm room. Does well on the 
quince. As it is hardy, a great grower, and enormous bearer, 
the fruit large, fair, 
and it comes in when 
pears are scarce, it is 
one of the most profit- 
able for the market or 
home consumption. 
Requires a warm lo- ,~ 
cation, and a long 1 «. 
"warm season. - -* 



£"" 



V 



\ 



7 



\ 



92. Oswego Beurre, Read's Seed- \ 
ling. (Dotted Otitline.) Rather \ 
large: oval-obovate ; greenish-yellow, \ 
mottled with russet ; stem short and \ 
stout, in a deep cavity ; shallow V 
basin ; flesh tender, melting, juicy, of 
a brisk saccharine, and slightly acid 
flavor. Nov. to mid-winter. Vigor- 
ous, and a prodigious and constant 
bearer. Newly introduced, but prom- 
ises to be one of the most profitable. 
Raised by Mr. Walter Read, Oswego, 
N. Y. Our outline is taken from the 
Horticulturist, 

93. Beurre Diel. (Larger Outline.) 4 



,iW&^-^ 



170 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Large ; obtuse-pyriform to obovate ; lemon or orange-yellow, 
marbled with russet, large brown dots ; stem rather long, 
stout, in an uneven cavity ; flesh whitish, rather coarse, half 
melting, rich, sugary, and delicious. When perfect is first- 
rate, but often insipid or astringent, being difficult to ripen. 
Rather apt to crack. It requires a warm location, high 
culture and warm season in the North. More certain in the 
Middle States and in the West. Best on quince. Foreign. 

94. Duchess de Angouleme. Extremely large ; long- 
obovate, uneven knotty surface ; dull greenish-yellow, much 
spotted and spangled with russet ; stalk 1 to 2 inches, stout, 
in a deep cavity ; calyx in a knotty basin ; flesh white, but- 
tery, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor. Nov. and Dec. On 
the quince, in a warm soil and location, it is of splendid size 
and nearly first-rate quality, but under adverse circumstances, 
poor and insipid. Not good for a standard, nor fit for orchard 
culture. Does better further South. Foreign. 

95. Forelle, Trout Fear. Medial ; long-obovate ; lemon- 
yellow, deep red, and crimson specks in the sun ; fine, melt- 
ing, of a rich, slightly vinous flavor. Nov. till Jan. Not 
suited to the North. Tree blights in 0. Foreign. 

Winter Pears. 

96. M'Laughlin. Medial ; obovate ; rough, brownish- 
yellow, red in the sun ; stem three-quarters of an inch long ; 
shallow basin ; flesh a little coarse at the core, melting, juicy, 
of a rich pleasant flavor, varying from almost first to second- 
rate. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. Very hardy in tree and 
fruit. Poor grower from the ground. Grows and bears well 
on a standard, and the fruit is very fair. Origin, Me. 

97. St. Germain. Large ; pyriform ; yellowish-green, 
tinged with brown ; a little gritty, melting, sweet, pleasant 
flavor. Latter part of Nov. to Jan. In the North it is poor, 
unless sheltered in towns or cities. It is also poor in old 
settled places. In new lands and mild climates it is valua- 
ble. Foreign. 

98. Prince's St. Germain. Medial ; oval-obovate ; green, 
mostly covered with brownish russet, reddish in the sun ; 
stem l\ inches long, in a slight cavity ; calyx large, open, 
in a slight basin ; melting, juicy, a blending of sweetish and 
rather vinous flavor. Last Nov. to Jan. Great bearer, and 
fruit ripens well. Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 



WINTER PEARS. 



171 



98. Lewis. (Dotted Outline.) Small 
medial ; obovate-turbinate ; skin thick, 
rough, yellowish pale green, with rus- 
setty specks ; stem long, slender, in a 
slight or no depression ; calyx large, 
spread open in a slight 
basin ; flesh whitish, 
rather coarse, melting, 
juicy, with a fine rich 
flavor. Va- 
ries with soil 
and season, 
from very 
good to in- 
sipid. Very 
hardy, good 
grower, and 
great bearer. 
Needs rich, 
moist soil, 
and high 
culture. Lat- 
ter part of 
Nov. to Jan. 
Adapted to 
orchard cul- 
ture. Ori- 
gin, Roxbu- 
ry. 








99. Bettrre de Arem- 
berg. Large ; obovate ; 
narrowing much to the 
stem ; skin thick, uneven, 
yellow, many spots of light 
russet ; stem short, stout, 
and fleshy, set obliquely; 
calyx small, in a deep basin ; 
flesh white, melting, buttery, 
very juicy, of a rich, spir- 
ited, sub-acid, vinous flavor 
Rather variable. Latter 
part of Nov. into Jan. 

, 





Keep in close boxes. Hardy and productive. It fails in the 
light soils of Salem. Those who prefer a smart Champagne 
flavor, call this the best winter pear. Good on the quince 
or pear. Foreign. 

100. Cross. Medial ; roundish ; bright -yellow, red cheeks ; 
melting, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor, perfumed. Latter 
part of Nov. to Jan. Good bearer. By Mr. Cross, New- 
buryport Hovey. 

101. Columbia. Large : roundish-obovate • very smooth, 



172 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



fair, golden-yellow, orange tinge, full in the sun. gray dots; 
stem rather long, slender, set obliquely in a narrow cavity ; 
calyx medial, in a slight basin ; flesh white, little coarse, 
melting, juicy, of a rich aromatic flavor. Latter part of 
Nov. to Jan. Vigorous, very productive, the fruit very hand- 
some, and promising for the Middle Region of our country, 
but in N. England we find that it wants character, the same 
in Western N. Y. Origin, Westchester Co., near N. Y. city. 

102. Winter Nelis. Medi- /«^ 
al ; roundish-obovate ; rough, — t 
grayish-yellowish-green, with 
darker green, and patches off 
brownish-russet ; stem rather 
long, slim, in a narrow cavity ; \s y \ \ 
calyx open, in a shallow basin ; 
flesh whitish, fine, melting, very 
juicy, of a 
rich saccha- 
rine, highly 
luscious fla- 
vor, and mus- 
ky perfume. 
Dec. and Jan. 
Hardy, good 
grower and 
productive ; 
and fruit uni- 
formly good. | 
The best win- 
ter pear for I 
those who 
prefer a sweet 
luscious fla- 
vor. It has 
been flourish- 
ing every- 
where, but 

Cabot says * s *-- _, W^n s<> jr 

that recently ••»•»#» 

it blasts in some locations. Good on the quince. Foreign. 

104. Chaumontel. Large ; long-obovate ; rough, yellow- 
ish, russet and red in the sun ; melting, buttery, sugary- 
pleasant perfume. Last of Nov. into Feb. Better on the 
quince. Hard to ripen. Foreign. 



v 



,*~">^~ 



Passe Colmar. 



103. Passe Colmar. Rather 
large ; obtuse-pyriform, varying 
to obovate ; yellow, much brown 
russet ; buttery, rich, sweet, aro- 
matic flavor. Last of Nov. and 
into Jan. Hardy, vigorous, and 
bears too freely. One of the 
finest sweet pears in its season, 
when in perfection, but difficult 
to ripen. Same in Western N. 
Y. Better for a warm garden. 



WINTER PEARS, 173 

105. Lawrence. Tolerably large : ©borate, tapering to 
a blunt end ; lemon -yellow, patches of greenish-brown, rus- 
set around the stem and eye ; stem medial^ stoitf, in a large 
cavity ; calyx large, open, in a large, farrowed basin ; flesh» 
yellowish-white, melting, juicy, of a richy sugary, excellent 
flavor. Nov. into Feb. New, promise* to be a good 
standard variety ; but probably better adapted to the Middle- 
Region than to the North. Moderate growth, fouit hardy. 
Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 

106. Glout Morceau. Rather large; oval-obovate ;. 
greenish-yellow, brownish patches ; stem rather long and! 
slender, in a small cavity ; calyx open, in rather deep basin ;: 
flesh white, fine, melting, buttery, of a rich saccharine- 
flavor. Dec. and Jan. Cracks in light soils. Pond, who> 
succeeds with almost every kind, says very poor bearer. 
For the amateur rather than for the orchard. Foreign. 

107. Echassery, Ambrette improperly. Small medial ;: 
roundish-obovate ; yellow ; stalk rather long, in a narrow 
cavity ; calyx open, almost level ; melting, buttery, sweet 
and pleasant. Winter. Uniformly good, an<& remarkably 
hardy and productive. Foreign. 

108. Knight's Monarch. Large ; obovate y yellowish- 
brown, red in the sun, gray dots ; stem short • shallow basin ;; 
melting, buttery, of a rich, brisk, delicious, musky flavor- 
Last of Nov. to Feb. Vigorous and productive. Promising,, 
but not tested here. English. 

109. Easter Beurre. Rather large ; roundish-obovate'^ 
dark yellowish-green, specks of russet, brownish full in the- 
sun ; stem short, blunt, in an abrupt cavity ; calyx small, ini 
a broad, shallow, plaited basin ; flesh white, fine, melting,, 
buttery, of a rich, sweet, and excellent flavor, when' perfect^, 
but it seldom ripens well, even in sheltered locations. Dec. 
to May. Much improved on the quince. Foreign. 

110. Beurre de Ranz. Medial; obtuse-pyriform ; dark 
green, russet specks ; stalk medial, in a slight depression ;. 
slight basin ; melting, juicy, of a rich, excellent flavor- 
Last of winter and into spring. Ripens not well in the- 
North. Better in the Middle States. Esteemed in the- 
West. Foreign. 

111. Wii-helmine. Medial; obovate; greenish-yellow, 
gray specks, red tinge in the sun; stalk rather long, in a 
slight depression ; calyx large, on a level, or slight projec- 
tion ; flesh melting, buttery, juicy, and sugary. Feb. to> 
May. New and not tested. Foreign. 



174 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Cooking Pears. 



Bleecker's Meadow and Vicar of Winkfield, already 
described, are among the very finest cooking pears, and they 
are remarkably hardy, vigorous, and productive. 

112. Harrison Fall. Large ; short pyriform ; greenish- 
yellow ; stem an inch long, obliquely set ; flesh coarse, 
sweetish, excellent for cooking. Oct. But little known 
here. Ives raises fine specimens. 

113. Owen. Medial ; roundish-oval ; dark green. Oct., 
Nov., Dec. One of the finest cooking pears in its season. 
Flesh tender, delicious, and finely colored. Hardy, vigorous, 
and productive. Garden of Mr. John Owen, Cambridge, 
Doubtless a native of this region, and well adapted to more 
northern climates. 

114. Catalac. Extremely large; turbinate; yellow, 
dotted with brown, brownish-red in the sun ; flesh hard and 
rough ; for cooking only, very good, and a beautiful color 
when cooked. Nov. to Feb. Foreign. 

115. Pound. Large; pyriform; yellowish-green, with a 
dull brown cheek ; stem long, stout ; slight basin ; flesh 
firm, good for baking, stewing or preserving, excelling the 
Iron pear. Oct. to May. Very vigorous and productive, 
but the tree is not very healthy in N. England, and the fruit 
blasts a little. It does better for the South, and here many 
cultivators prefer it to the Iron pear. 

116. Iron Pear, Black Pear of Worcester. Large ; long- 
obovate ; skin thick, rough, green, much dark russet ; flesh 
hard, coarse ; merely a poor cooking pear, being difficult to 
cook, and then not excellent. Once popular m market, but 
of late not very salable. Winter. Great bearer. 

117. Uvedale's St. Germain. Very large; pyriform; 
yellowish-green, with a brown cheek ; stem medial, 
obliquely, and rather deeply set ; deep basin ; flesh hard and 
astringent. Good for cooking. Winter and early spring. 
Rather tender for this climate. 

118. Winter Frank Real. Medial; roundish; yellow, 
specks of russet brown, brownish cheek. Flesh firm ; good 
for cooking. Winter and into spring. Foreign. 

119. Easter Bergamot. Large medial; roundish-obo- 
vate ; pale yellow ; flesh white, crisp, juicy, and melting, of 
a sprightly flavor, and fine for cooking. Foreign. 



PEARS. 



175 



a 




a 3 


<*- 


2 


li 




2 to 6 


3 


1 to 4 




2 to 10 




5 to 10 




5 to 7 


1 


1 


5 


li 




2 to 4 


6 


lito 2 


4 


ljto 3 


12 


1 


2 


lito 3 




2 to 6 




2 Ho 4 




lito 2 




lito 3 


6 


1 


11 


1 




2 to 10 




2 to 3 




2 to 3 




2 to 3 


4 


1 




1 to 5 




2 to 4 




lito 3 


5 


1 


3 


1 


7 


li 




il 



TABLE OF PEARS, 

In order of ripening. (Page 11.) 

Summer Pears. 

Madeleine, July 25 to Aug. 10 

Jargonelle, Aug. 5 " Aug. 20 

Zoar Seedling, ". ," " " " 

Osband's Summer, . . . Aug. 10 " " 30 

Bloodgood, " 12 " Sept. 5 

Muskingum, " 15 " •' " 

Moyamensing, " 12 " " " 

Julienne, " 15 " " " 

Belle of Brussels, ... " " " " « 

Dorr, " " " " " 

Rostiezer, " 20 " " 10 

Wadleigh, « « « " « 

Summer Frank Real, . . * u * " u 

Tyson, » « « " " 

Dearborn's Seedling, . . " « " " « 

Osborn, " " " " " 

Fall Pears. 

St. Ghistlain, Sept. 1 to Sept. 20 

Bartlett, " " « * 25 

Wilbur, " « " " " 

Pratt . " " " " " 

Golden Beiirre of Bilboa, ■ " M M ■ 

Knight's Seedling, ... « • ■ " " 
Stevens's Genesee, ... " 10 " Oct. 

Washington, ..... " » " " 
Belle Lucrative, .... Latter part of Sept. 

Gansel's Bergamot, . . " " " ■ 

Frederic de Wurtemberg, " " " * 

Harvard, Sept. 10 to Oct. 5. 

Long Green " " " " " 

Cushing, u " * u " 

Flemish Beauty, " « « « h 

Paradise de Automne, ... " " " " " 

Eyewood, " " « " " 

Adams Last of Sept. 

Andrews " " { 

Beurre Bosc, " " ■ 

Seckel, ... .... Last of Sept., and Oct. 

Louise Bon de Jersey, " " " " " 

Heathcot, " «' M " ** 



176 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



LIST OF PEARS, 

In order of ripening. (See page 11.) 

Fall Pears. 

Trescott, Last of Sept. 

Abbott " " " 

Brown Beurre, Oct. 1 

Jalousie, Oct. l 

Surpass Virgalieu, " " 

Beurre Van Marum, " " 

Buffum, « « 

Fulton, Oct. into Nov. 

Marie Louise, 

White Doyenne, 

Swan's Orange, 

Beurre de Anjou, 

Urbaniste, 

Napoleon, . • 

Van Mons. Leon le Clerc, . . 

Bishop's Thumb, Last of Oct. 

Queen of the Low Countries, . . " " " 

Gray Doyenne, . • " " Nov. 

Bleecker's Meadow, " " " 

Dix, Nov. 

Vicar of Winkfield, Oct. into Dec. 

Duchess de Angouleme, .... Nov. to Jan. 

Oswego Beurre, " " * 

Beurre Diel, Nov. to winter. 



3 & 

5"" 




1 to 


5 


5 to 


8 


1 to 


4 


2 to 


4 


2 to 


5 


2 to 


4 


1 to 


5 


1 to 10 


Hto 


5 


1 to 




1 




Uto 


6 


H to 


9 



10 



4 to 5 

2 to 8 
1 to 3 

3 to S 
U to 5 

1 to 10 



Uto 
li to 

2 to 

U to 

1 to 
lHo 
Uto 
1 to 

1 

1 to 
2 



1 to 10 



Winter Pears. 

M'Laughlin, Last Nov. to Jan 

Lewis, " " ■ * " 

St. Germain, " " " " 

Cross, . . . . • " " " " 

Columbia, " « " " 

Prince St. Germain, .... " 
Beurre de Aremberg, .... " 

Chaumontel, " 

Lawrence, " " M " 

Glout Morceau, Dec. and Jan 

Winter Nelis, " " " 

Passe Colmar, • . " 

Echassery, 

Knight's Monarch, . . . » , . Jan. and Feb. 

Easter Beurre, Dec. to May. 

Beurre de Ran z, . . . . Winter and Spring. 



« 
Feb. 



Winter. 



PEARS. 177 

The Summer Pears, Zoar Seedling, Osband's Summer, 
Muskingum, Moyamensing, and Osborn, are new and promising, 
but not well tested here, and some of them are but little known 
anywhere. 

The Fall, Pratt, Trescot, Abbot, Paradise de Automne, 
Wilbur, Hull, Swan's Orange, Knight's Seedling, Oswego 
Beurre, and Lawrence, have not been well tested. 

The Winter, Columbia, and M'Laughlin, are but little known. 

Ernst recommends Madeleine, Julienne, Bartlett, Osborn, 
Summer Colmar, Washington, Doyenne Gray, Flemish Beauty, 
Seckel, Duchess de Angouleme, Beurre Die!, Louise Bonne ae 
Jersey. 

Kirtland and Elliott recommend the following varieties. 

Summer. For the Garden — Madeleine, Dearborn's Seedling, 
Bartlett, Summer Frank Real, Belle of Brussels, Musk Robart, 
(K.,) Early Doyelone, (E.) For Market, Madeleine, Windsor, 
Bartlett, Belle of Brussels, Summer Beauty, (K.,) Zoar's Seed- 
ling, (E.,) Summer Frank Real. 

Fall. For the Garden — Louise Bon de Jersey, Beurre Bosc, 
Ananas de Ete, Kirtland's Beurre, Marie Louise, Rousselet of 
Rheims, (K.,) Honey, (E.,) Seckel, Stevens's Genesee, Gansell's 
Bergamot, Heathcot, Beurre Diel, White Doyenne, Gray Doyenne, 
Dix. For Market, add Frederic de Wurtenberg, Bezi de La 
Motte, Napoleon, Coit's Beurre, Beurre Van Marum, Duchess 
de Angouleme. Many others — such as Belle Lucrative, An- 
drews, &c., have not been well tested. 

Winter. For the Garden — Winter Nelis, Beurre de Arem- 
berg, Lewis, Beurre de Ranz, Easter Beurre. For Market, add 
Chaumontel, Uvedale's St. Germain. Columbia, and many 
others, not fairly tested. 

The Pomological Convention, at Buffalo, recommend as 
first-rate, for general culture, Dearborn's Seedling, Tyson, Ros- 
tiezer, Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Bartlett, Louise Bon de Jersey, 
Beurre de Aremberg, Glout Morceau. Stevens's Genesee, and 
Andrews, nearly first-rate. Bloodgood fine on light soils. 

The National Convention of Fruit Growers recom- 
mend Madeleine, Dearborn's Seedling, Bloodgood, Tyson, 
Golden Beurre of Bilboa, Bartlett, Seckel, Flemish Beauty, 
Beurre Bosc, Winter Nelis. For Particular Locations, White 
Doyenne, Gray Doyenne. 

Barry recommends, Summer — Madeleine, Osband's Summer, 
Bloodgood, Dearborn's Seedling, Summer Franc Real, Belle of 
Brussels, Bartlett. 

Autumn. Seckel, White Doyenne, Gray (or Red) Doyenne, 
Countess de Lunay, Louise Bon de Jersey, Paquency, Ananas, 
Beurre Diel, Duchess de Angouleme, Oswego Beurre, Swan's 
Orange, Beurre Bosc. 

Winter. Chaumontel, Winter Nelis, Glout Morceau, Beurre 
de Aremberg, Vicar of Winkfield (for cooking.) 



178 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

THE PEACH, (Amijgdalus persica.) 



The Peach is a native of the warm climate of Persia. 
The tree is small, of a low, spreading form, (page 184,) 
with limber branches, long, narrow, serrated leaves, and 
pink blossoms, that appear before the leaves. The fruit, 
externally, is less distinctly marked than most other species. 
In many kinds there is a general sameness in size, form, 
and color ; and the size, color, and quality, of the same vari- 
eties, vary greatly, from culture and other causes. On the 
same tree, one specimen will be of the greatest excellence, 
another insipid, or unpleasant. 

The tree is short-lived, but it is of rapid growth, and 
bears early. We have seen many fine specimens of fruit 
in perfection 28 months from planting the seed, yet it gener- 
ally bears but little so early. Some kinds bear pretty well 
the fourth year, from seed, and a full crop the fifth. The 
trees often decay after bearing 2 or 3 good crops ; and some- 
times the first good crop is the last. 



THE TEACH. 179 

The peach flourishes finely in the Middle and Western 
States ; it has been extended far south ; and north to the 
states of Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine, and in the 
southern parts of these States it is cultivated to some ex- 
tent. By due care in raising fine, hardy, early varieties 
from seed, true to their kind, and a judicious selection of 
soil and location, the culture of this delicious fruit may be 
extended, in a small way, to the northern part of the U. 
States, and other regions in the same latitude. 

Although we have been in the finest peach regions, we 
never tasted better fruit than in N. England — even in 
Maine, and some specimens 10 inches round. We have 
seen, in this section, as large peaches as we have accounts 
of in any part of the world, some 12 or 13 inches in cir- 
cumference, and of the highest quality. We have seen 
some sold at $3.00 per dozen. Yet the peach is very uncer- 
tain in N. England, and somewhat precarious in other 
parts of the country, being injured in bud and blossom by 
sudden changes of weather. 

In New Jersey, Delaware, and Maryland, are extensive 
peach orchards, in some cases containing 20,000 trees, and 
yielding 5, 10, or 15,000 dollars from a single plantation. 
In all parts of the country, the buds are liable to be killed, 
which causes a failure, and occasionally a hard winter kills 
off most of the old trees, which are easily replaced by new 
ones. 

Uses. The peach is used mostly for the dessert, and is 
one of the most luscious of all fruits, being, when perfectly 
ripened on the tree, and eaten soon, wholesome, refreshing, 
and nourishing. It is strongly diuretic, and rather laxative. 
Raw peaches, of a fine quality, with a little sugar, are a 
great luxury, and a good substitute for butter, meats, (tec. 
Peaches and milk are delicious. They make superior pre- 
serves. The finest we ever tasted were made of maple 
sugar and peaches. Though transient in their fresh state, 
they are dried and saved long, and transported any desira- 
ble distance. In ice, they have been carried, in their fresh 
state, to distant parts of the world, in fine condition. 

Soil and Location. The peach will flourish in any friable 
soil, under good culture, but the best soil is a light and rather 
dry loam. It succeeds well with good, deep culture, and 
suitable manure, on light, sandy, and gravelly soils ; but in 
such cases it is necessary to guard against severe drought by 



180 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

manures, inducing moisture, frequent stirring the soil, mulch- 
ing, or by all these advantages. Any soil suitable for Indian 
corn is adapted to the peach. The subsoil should be dry and 
porous. On moist soils, the tree grows late, and will not 
ripen its wood in season for winter. Too much is expected 
of the peach on light, thin soils, with bad culture. The 
trees are transient. Such soils should be subsoiled and ma- 
nured. All soils not in right condition may be improved. 
(See page 29.) 

Elevated situations are far the best for the peach, especial- 
ly in the North, where the tree, but more especially the blossom 
buds, are often killed, not so much, perhaps, by severe cold, 
as by sudden changes from thawing and freezing, and the 
reverse. In this way buds are often killed in Dec. and 
Jan., as may be seen by a black speck in the centre of the 
bud, indicating its destruction. 

In hundreds of cases we have seen peach buds killed in 
low, (even on light warm lands,) warm locations, whilst on 
elevations of 60 to 100 feet, they were nourishing under a 
heavy crop of fruit. On a frosty night, in fall or spring, or 
in the most severe weather in winter, the thermometer indi- 
cates 5 or 6 degrees lower on low lands than on those 60 
to 100 feet high. This difference, together with the greater 
extreme of heat, in warm, sunny days, and consequently the 
great and sudden changes, often makes all the difference 
between a good crop and a total failure. 

In most cases, the north sides of hills and ridges are 
preferable for peaches ; there is less heat by day, and less 
frost by night, as the north wind, which prevails in time of 
frost, prevents its severity. Owing to the situation of some 
sections of the country, and certain currents of air, this 
rule is not invariable. 

Propagation. The peach is easily propagated by seeds 
and budding ; but with difficulty by grafting, layers, or cut- 
tings. There are some fixed varieties, which, if cultivated 
at a distance from other trees, so as not to mix in the 
blossom, will invariably produce the same from seed ; they 
are propagated with less trouble, and the trees are more 
hardy and durable. With proper attention, a complete as- 
sortment of peaches might be obtained in this way. We 
have several valuable fixed varieties, and are making ex- 
periments to obtain others. 

The following is a good mode. Plant stones from a su- 



THE PEACH. 



1S1 



perior seedling, standing alone, and if all planted, to the 
number of 10 or 15, produce precisely the same fruit as 
the parent, then the variety may be regarded as fixed. If 
they vary, make an experiment on the best, if superior, re- 
moving others near them, and test their offspring in the 
same way. Some cultivators plant stones of the best varie- 
ties, and never bud ; they usually get good fruit, and suc- 
ceed as well in the North as those who bud the finest vari- 
eties. 

In raising stocks, or seedling kinds, the stones should be 
grown in the North, for northern culture, and the late kinds 
make the most hardy stocks. When taken from the meat, 
spread and dry in the shade, and keep in a cool place ; drying 
will not injure them, but have them spread thin, that they 
may not mould. Let them remain till late in fall, or mid- 
winter, and then pour on water, and soon drain it off, and 
put them in moderately moist sand or loam, in a box, or 
cask, set in the cellar ; cover close with a moist mat, cloth, 
or moss, that the sand may not dry, and wet it a little oc- 
casionally, especially if the lot be small. Or as soon as 
out of the flesh, or before winter, bury in a light soil 
more than a foot deep. 

In either case, when ready to plant in spring, with a light 
hammer crack the stones, striking a gentle blow on the 
side edge, take out the meat, and plant as you would corn, 
and about as deep. This may be done in the evening, or 
on a stormy day, and the meats may be kept a week in the 
cellar, spreading thinly to prevent moulding, and covering, 
when warm and airy, to prevent drying. These directions, 
which we give from our own experience, contain, in a few 
words, more useful information on this point, than all the 
volumes that have been published upon the subject. If the 
stones be planted in the fall, they may not crack open dur- 
ing winter, and will be lost ; and if they are covered up in 
the earth, near the surface, preparatory to spring planting, 
they may crack and grow early, before the land is dry 
enough to plough. But in the way we have named, they are 
ready early, and yet they may be kept good till June. In 
the spring we have covered them 18 inches deep, in a light 
soil in the shade, and kept them good till the next spring. 

We have trees from stones that were kept over one sum- 
mer and they came as well as others of the previous year. 
16 



182 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Yet all seeds generally lose something of their vitality by 
long keeping in any situation. 

Plant in a recently ploughed, light, mellow soil, in drills 
4 feet apart, and if the seeds are scarce, and appear very 
good, plant them 1 foot apart ; but if they are plenty, plant 
them a few inches apart, and when too thick, remove the 
superfluous to thin or vacant places, or to new lots, when 
3 to 5 inches high, with a transplanting trowel. Cultivate 
the land well, and if the trees get a good growth, they will 
be in order for budding the first year. Some prefer letting 
them remain till 2 years old. But with a suitable soil and 
good culture, the peach is large enough for budding the first 
year, and for transplanting the second • we never want 
larger trees, for the peach is short-hved, and the sooner it 
is permanently set the better. 

It is better, if convenient, to plant the stones where the 
trees are to remain. Some transplant next spring after 
budding, and, if nicely done, it succeeds well, In such 
cases, the soil should be in fine condition, and the trans- 
planting done early, before the buds start, else they Mill be 
checked by the operation. In budding, select buds having 
three leaves or buds, and next those of two, preferring the 
buds at, or towards, the centre of the scion. 

Planting, Training- and Pruning. Many cultivators set 
peach trees about 21 feet apart, (100 to the acre,) and in 
spreading wide they may interfere ; but in the North, and 
all regions where it is short-lived, it is better to set half 
that distance apart, each way, (400 to the acre,) and allow 
the trees to spread out low, and shorten-in at the extremi- 
ties, making the trees dwarfish. 

Dwarfs, made in this manner, are not only adapted to 
small gardens, but they are more profitable for extensive 
culture in regions where the peach is of short duration. 
Allow branches to come out low, for this tree is luxuriant 
and tender, and is more exposed when trained high. 
Dwarfs and slow-growers, adapted to northern culture, may 
be made by budding on plum-stocks ; this better fits them 
for moist soils, and guards against the borer. 

For a few years after setting the trees, crops may be 
taken from the land, till the trees come into bearing, manur- 
ing well, and cultivating thoroughly, (having reference to 
the kind of crop, page 52,) and then devote the whole lane 1 
to the trees, continuing: the manuring and culture. As th' 



THE PEACH. 183 

peach tree contains much potash, wood ashes are an excel- 
lent manure, as we have found by repeated experiments. 

In the North, the peach is sometimes trained to walls, 
fences, and upon buildings, in various ways, as horizontal 
training, fan training, &cc. ; but this is mostly fancy work, 
for the amateur, or gentleman of wealth and leisure. In 
some cases it may be a matter of real utility, to ripen late 
kinds, or to produce this delicious fruit in a climate too 
cold for common training. 

Pruning at the trunk should never he practised, excepting 
to cut away dead and decaying branches ; or when too 
thick, small limbs, while the trees are young. After trees 
are a few years old, reduce the branches, when too thick, 
only by cutting them off at the extremities, or some dis- 
tance from the trunk, as cutting at the trunk causes the 
gum to ooze out, and endangers the health and life of the 
tree. 

Prune peaches in fall, or early in spring. The fall is 
preferable, as by the reduction of the top, the tree will be less 
exposed to injury. Prune at the extremities, by cutting off 
one third, or, when very luxuriant, one half of the last 
growth. This mode is called shortening -in, or heading-in, 
and it is most conveniently performed with stout shears, 
having long, wooden handles. 

Trees pruned in this way will bear earlier, and produce 
larger, fairer, and better fruit, and larger crops to the acre, 
if set near, as we have recommended ; and this mode will 
prevent over-bearing, by reducing the blossom-buds, and 
save the expense of thinning the fruit. It will also keep up 
a constant succession of new wood for the next crop, for the 
fruit is on the previous year's growth. 

This is by far the best system of pruning, as it keeps the 
trees low and close, saving them from destruction by exces- 
sive crops, heavy winds, damp snow, sleet, and ice. It also 
economizes room, by many trees to the acre ; it promotes 
health, vigor and longevity, and a constant production of 
good fruit. 

This system is now becoming general, and highly useful. 
A tree shortened-in is covered with fruit and foliage, like the 
neat, small figure ; while the unpruned tree (or that pruned 
only at the trunk) presents the deformity of naked branch- 
es, with the fruit and foliage only at the extremities, like the 
Wge, ugly figure, on the next page. 



184 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 





Skorte?ied-in. 



Unpruned. 



To induce early bearing, particularly where trees are lux- 
uriant and barren, clip off the extremities of the branches in 
July, about £ of the new growth j this will produce blossom 
buds, the latter part of summer, for a crop the next season. 
We have found this very successful. 

Wash. Half a peck of unslacked lime, 2 quarts of soot, 
1 quart of soft soap, and 1 pound of sulphur. On this pour 
warm water, till the whole is of a creamy consistency. Ap- 
ply it to the trunk and branches with a brush, sponge or 
cloth, as hot as the hand can bear, in the spring, and again 
early m summer. Good for health, growth, and to destroy 
insects. 

Diseases and Insects. 

The Yellows, a disease peculiar to this country only, is 
the most fatal of all evils to which the peach is subject. 
So great has been its devastation, in some regions, that 
the culture of this fruit has been entirely abandoned. The 
cause of the yellows has not been ascertained, and though 
some attribute it to poor soil, and bad culture, (which 
may have aggravated the evil,) yet there are undeniable 
facts to the contrary ; for new and vigorous trees, from 
healthy districts, and set on the best of soils, and under the 
most prudent management, have fallen a prey to this formi- 
dable malady. 

Indications. Ripening of the fruit 2, 3, or 4 weeks earli- 
er than usual, some branches being diseased and ripeninr? 



THE PEACH DISEASES AND INSECTS. 185 

earlier ; while on the same tree others appear healthy ; and 
on the same tree, branches ripening in succession from 1 
to 4 weeks earlier than common. Often purplish-red specks 
on the fruit, and the flesh also colored, and purple next the 
stone, let its natural color be what it may. 

The fruit generally growing to its full size the first season, 
but much smaller afterwards. The starting of slender, wiry 
shoots from the body and limbs, not from visible, but latent, 
buds, with small leaves, pale yellow, and of sickly appear- 
ance, which shoots do not ripen their wood, but perish the 
next winter. The leaves of the whole tree slightly change 
from deep green to a yellowish cast. The premature ripen- 
ing of the fruit always attends the yellows, the unnatural 
shoots generally, but not always. 

General Remarks. It has not been determined in what 
ways, in every respect, the disease is propagated. Some 
suppose that it is propagated by constitutional taint — that 
is, the seeds of diseased trees will produce sickly descend- 
ants, — but it is not invariably produced in this way, for 
trees from healthy regions have soon become affected with 
yellows in tainted districts, being in the vicinity of diseased 
trees. There may be hereditary taint, but other modes of 
propagation also. 

It is a well established fact that the disease is propagated 
by contagion, as healthy trees, innoculated with buds from 
diseased trees, soon become affected also. One mode of prop- 
agation is, doubtless, by bees carrying the pollen of dis- 
eased trees to blossoms of healthy ones ; young trees generally 
escape taking it by contact, (as they do not blossom,) though 
they may have it constitutionally. Some have undertaken to 
disprove this by a few experiments in mixing the pollen of 
diseased with that of healthy trees. Cutting a well tree 
with a knife just used in pruning a diseased one, will, it is 
said, impart the disorder. 

It has been supposed that the yellows is infectious — 
that it is propagated in the air, like the small pox, or 
measles — but we consider this very doubtful. Still it is 
possible that from trees having so deadly a malady, there 
may be emanations of poisonous effluvia, that taint the 
air and communicate the poison to other trees by absorption 
in the leaves. It is supposed that lands recently occupied 
by diseased trees will impart the disease to new trees set on 
them. 

16* 



186 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Besides the propagation by constitutional taint in seeds, 
and contagion by innoculation, there are, doubtless, c*her 
modes, which may be by contact in the way of bees, and the 
wind blowing the pollen from tree to tree, or by infection 
in the atmosphere ; else minute insects must be the cause of 
the disease, and this is the opinion of some nice observers ; 
but they know not what, nor when, where, nor how, they 
operate. 

Remedies. None have ever been prescribed ; yet in this, 
as in all other cases of guarding vegetables and animals 
against diseases, manage well as to getting good, healthy 
trees, selecting suitable soil and location, giving good and 
thorough culture, pruning at the extremities of the shoots, 
not at the trunk, observing good management in every re- 
spect. Plant no trees where peach trees have lately grown, 
whether diseased or not, as the soil has become, at least, 
measurably exhausted of some essential ingredients. As 
soon as trees show the least signs of the disease, remove 
them, root and all, and consume them. 

The Peach Tree Borer, (JEgtria ezitiosa,) in its differ- 
ent stages. 




Borer. 



Cocoon, 



Pupa state. 

The perfect insect resembles a wasp. The sexes differ 
widely. The body of both is mostly steel-blue ; the wings 
of the male are transparent, bordered and mixed with- the 
same blue color. The fore wings of the female are blue and 



THE TEACH DISEASES AND INSECTS. 187 

opaque ; the hind wings like those of the male. A broad 
orange belt in the middle of the abdomen. During the sum- 
mer, the eggs, of a dirty white hue, and scarcely perceptible 
to the naked eye, are laid on the tree, at or very near the 
surface of the ground, in little punctures, and covered with 
greenish slime. In a few days they hatch, and the young, 
whitish worms eat through the bark, and girdle the tree, 
passing between the bark and sap wood, eating both. When 
near a year old, they make their cocoons, usually just below 
the surface, and soon change to a pupa or chrysalis state, 
and shortly come forth in the winged state, as represented in 
the cuts, and lay their eggs. The last change is from June 
to Oet., mostly in July ; hence the various sizes of worms 
through the season. This insect prevails to a great extent, 
especially in the old states, and is very destructive, but with 
close attention it may be destroyed. 

Various are the remedies. The surest is to keep clean the 
surface at the tree, and examine closely and frequently, and 
cut out the insects. If offensive matters be applied, the 
tree will soon grow and leave tender places exposed ; yet 
some have succeeded. Strong wood ashes, or slaked lime, 
half a peck heaped around each tree, has been effectual, and 
they make good manure when spread late in the fall. Some 
have saved their trees by laying refuse tobacco around them, 
as few worms can bear so nauseous a weed, however it may 
be with beings of a higher order. A compound may be made 
of hen manure and guano, tobacco, soot, ashes, lime, sulphur, 
a little salt, soap, or whale oil soap, and other offensive sub- 
stances, more or less, and laid around the root and heaped up 
against the trunk, first clearing away the earth; this will both 
protect the tree and serve as an excellent manure. Or use 
offensive washes. (Tages 73, 89.) Tenacious substances, like 
white-wash, form a coat that excludes the air, and are inju- 
rious. Some clear away the earth and apply straight straw 
to the tree, one foot high, spreading out the lower ends, a few 
inches on the earth, to be covered with soil, binding the straw 
to the tree with 2 bands. Or bind on pasteboard, or stout 
paper, birch, leather, or other compact substance ; but tegu- 
ments have an unfavorable effect, binding the tree, and 
making it tender. In spring, summer, and autumn, remove 
the earth a few inches, and examine the trees for worms, 
which are indicated by gum and castings from their holes. 

Plant Lice [aphides) live under the leaves, and, by their 



188 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

punctures, cause them to become thick, and curl, forming 
hollows beneath and crispy reddish swellings above, and to fall 
prematurely. The Leaf-hoppers ( Thrips) are also injurious 
to the leaves. As a remedy, syringe them with a solu- 
tion of whale-oil soap, or strong soap-suds, with an infusion 
of tobacco, or dust the leaves with wood ashes, or powdered 
lime, when the dew is on. The peach generally soon recov- 
ers from the effect of the curled leaf. The same remedies 
may be used as for leaf-hoppers. 

Other Insects. A small borer sometimes eats into, and 
passes along the heart of small tender branches, which is 
not very common, and they only affect a small branch which 
is soon renewed. Cut off and burn the affected part. The 
curculio, so destructive to plums, sometimes affects peaches 
also, but the rough skin of the peach serves as a protection 
in some measure. When the fruit is ripening, bees, wasps, 
hornets, flies, and a multitude of other insects, often devour 
the best fruits to a great extent. As a remedy, destroy in- 
sects by vessels of sweetened water, (see page 74,) and other 
means, and as the season of honey will be past, shut up 
honey bees, giving them air and water. The yellow-fleshed 
peaches generally have thicker and rougher skins, and are 
less liable to injury from insects. 

Marks of Distinction. As there is usually a general 
resemblance in peaches, as to form, color, flavor, dec, or the 
variations of all are great, from soil, location, manure, cul- 
ture, and other causes, they cannot be well distinguished by 
those characteristics that mark other fruits ; therefore, resort 
is had to other marks of distinction, in the leaves, flowers, 
and stones. 

The first general division is into Freestones, (Metiers,) 
such as separate freely from the stone, and Clingstones, 
(Povies,) whose meat adheres to the stone. Freestones are 
usually the most popular in the market. Clingstones will 
generally keep longer, and they are often used for preserves, 
being better for this purpose. 

The Leaves contain their natural distinctions. Some 
kinds have no glands and the leaves are deeply serrated, (cut 
like a saw,) in the margin, as a, a. Others have round and 
regular, or globose glands, as b, b. The other class has oblong 
and irregular, or reniform glands, as c, c 



THE PEACH. 



189 




Serrated and glandless. Globose glands. 



JReniform glands. 



The Blossoms show two nice distinctions. The one, large 
flowers, red in the centre and pale in the margin ; the other, 
small flowers, tinged with dark in the margin. 

Varieties. As the peach is in use but a short time, has 
not a great diversity of flavor, and is used only for a few 
purposes, a few varieties are sufficient, either for the private 
garden or the market, and they should be of the highest 
rank, in every respect. Therefore we have treated particu- 
larly on the management, and have given a sufficiently 
large list of superior kinds, and have passed over many va- 
rieties generally inferior, or comparatively worthless. Any 
one, by planting stones of superior kinds, may, in a few 
years, have valuable, new varieties in fruit, and they can 
always be found in almost every neighborhood. 

Some connoisseurs in fruit, and a few others, prefer white- 
fleshed peaches, with a vinous or smart sub-acid flavor ; but 
women and children, generally the great majority, go for 
yellow-fleshed, sweet, luscious fruit, and it is in demand in 
the market. Besides, the yellow-fleshed are more hardy in 
enduring storms, bear transportation better, and keep better 
after being picked ; therefore the experienced cultivator gen- 
erally prefers them for the market. Those of a vinous 
flavor should be well ripened on the tree, and eaten soon after 
gathered, which renders them less adapted to the market. 

Many writers on the peach have cultivated foreign kinds 
principally, and in sheltered gardens, and they recommend 
them to the neglect of native varieties ; while those who have 
gone more largely into the culture, and whose opinions are 
less known to the public, generally reject foreign sorts, as 
they find excellent natives more hardy and profitable. 

We have carefully examined into the character and merits 
of a number of superior natives of New England, unknown 
to the public, and introduced them into this work, which for 



190 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

orchard culture, in this and other similar latitudes, excel 
those of foreign or more southern origin ; and we have no 
doubt that some of them will prove valuable in all parts of 
the country ; the trees being hardy, vigorous and productive, 
and the fruit hardy, large, beautiful, and excellent, selling 
high in our market, in spite of competition from immense 
crops in warmer climes. 

We are trying to make an improvement in peach culture, 
in rather cold regions, like this, and to extend it still farther 
north, by valuable, early seedlings, true to their kind ; pre- 
venting the tenderness of trees, and trouble incident to bud- 
ding in cold climates. We already have several excellent 
seedlings, which we have described, and are now making 
experiments on 40 or 50 other promising kinds, from which 
to select an assortment. Others are trying the same system 
with success. Seedlings are more hardy. (Page 60.) 

1. Early Sweetwater. Medial; roundish; whitish; 
flesh white, melting, sweet, but not excellent nor hardy. 
Freestone. Aug. 15 to 25. Globose glands. 

2. Early Tillotson. Medial ; round ; mostly red ; flesh 
whitish, red at the stone, melting, juicy, fine high flavor. 
Mostly freestone. Aug. 15 to 30. Apt to mildew in the 
North. In Virginia it is excellent. Leaves serrated, gland- 
less. Small flowers. Origin, Western N. Y. 

3. Early Chelmsford, Mammoth. Large ; roundish; 
suture clear round, deep on one side ; white, with a bright 
red cheek ; flesh white, very melting and juicy, of a very de- 
licious, slightly vinous flavor. Freestone. 20th to last of 
Aug. We find this very hardy, vigorous, and productive, 
and one of the very best, handsomest, and largest of early 
peaches. Glandless. Origin, in the North. 

4. Early Malden. A fine early variety. Freestone. 
Aug. 20. Leaves slightly serrated, glandless. Origin, Mai- 
den, Canada West. 

5. Tufts's Early. Rather large ; roundish ; flesh white, 
tinged with red, melting, very juicy, of a sweet, delicious fla- 
vor. Aug. 20 to Sept. 1. Globose glands. Vigorous and 
productive. By Mr. E. Tufts, Cambridgeport, Ms. 

6. Early York. Medial ; roundish, inclining to oval, 
slight suture; pale yellowish- white, red blush in the san, 
dark red and nearly covering the fruit ; flesh greenish- white, 
tints of red at the stone, tender, melting, delicious. Free- 
stone. Last of Aug. One of the very finest early kinds. 



THE PEACH. 191 

Leaves serrated, glandless. Flowers large. In some situa- 
tions the ends of the branches mildew. Native. 

7. White Imperial. Tolerably large ; depressed, hollow 
at the top, large cavity at the stem, distinct suture ; yellow- 
ish-white, with a slight reddish tinge in the sun ; flesh whit- 
ish, melting, juicy, with a sweet and excellent flavor. Free- 
stone. Last of -Aug., 1st of Sept. Hardy, and adapted to 
northern regions ; vigorous and good bearer ; one of the best. 
Originated by Mr. David Thomas, Cayuga Co., N. Y. 

8. Early Washington* Very large ; roundish, very deep 
suture on one side, pointed at the apex ; flesh white, very fine 
texture, juicy, sWeet, rich, with a fine aroma. Freestone. 
Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Of this vicinity. Native. 

9. Walter's Early. Large ; roundish ; white, with a 
red cheek ; flesh whitish, red tinge at the stone, melting, 
juicy, sweet, and pleasant. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. 
Adapted to light soils. Popular in N. J., where it origin- 
ated. Not suited to the North, excepting in warm gardens. 
Globose glands. 

10. E-En Rareripe. Tolerably large ; roundish; large 
suture ; white, mottled with red, dark-red cheek ; flesh whit- 
ish, red at the stone, melting, juicy, with very rich and high 
flavor. Freestone. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. Leaves 
serrated, glandless. Small flowers. One of the best in its 
season, but liable to rot in wet weather in N. England. 

11. Strawberry, Rose. Medial ; oval ; mostlv red ; melt- 
ing, juicy, rich, delicious. Native of N. J., where it is exten- 
sively used for the orchard. Last of Aug. and Sept. 1. Ren- 
iform glands. Small flowers. 

12. Royal George, Early Royal George, Red Magdalen. 
Medial ; roundish ; white ; red cheek ; flesh whitish, red at 
the stone, melting, rich, delicious. Very liable to mildew ; 
not worth cultivating. Last of Aug. and 1st of Sept. 

13. Coolidge, Coolidge's Favorite. Large ; roundish ; 
suture at top > very smooth, white, with a crimson cheek ; 
flesh very melting and juicy, with a rich sweet, highly deli- 
cious flavor, of the very first character. Freestone. Sept. 1. 
Tree hardy, vigorous, and productive ; but the fruit is too 
tender for transportation to market ; it is eaten by bees, 
wasps, &c, and it is very liable to injury from wet weather 
when ripening. Excellent for the amateur ; good also for the 
private garden, but others are more sure. Originated by Mr. 
J. Coolidge, Watertown, Ms. 



192 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

14. Hatch. Very large ; roundish, pointed ; shallow sut- 
ure ; deep yellow, blush in the sun; flesh yellow, melting, 
sweet, and excellent. Freestone. Sept. 1. It produces the 
fame from the seed, which, with its earliness, hardiness, and 
superior quality, admirably adapts itself to the North. We 
have hundreds of seedlings perfectly uniform. Globose 
glands. Originated by S. O. Hatch, Franklin, Ct. 

15. Early Newington Freestone. Rather large ; round,, 
distinct suture, one side the fruit the largest ; yellowish-white r 
dots and streaks of red, a rich red cheek ; flesh white, red at 
the stone, melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Sept. 1. 
Mostly freestone when fully ripe. Reniform glands. Small 
flowers. Supposed to be a native. 

16. Gross Mignonne, Royal Kensington. Large ; round- 
ish ; suture on the shorter side ; yellow, deep red in the sun ;: 
flesh whitish, red at the stone, juicy, melting, of a rich vinous 
flavor. Freestone. Sept. 1. Globose glands, large flowers. 
Origin, France. 

17. Large Early York, New York Rareripe of Coxe. 
Large ; roundish, slightly oval ; white, tending to yellow, 
broad rich blush ; flesh white, firm, juicy, of a rich fine fla- 
vor. First of Sept. Much cultivated on Long Island, and 
in N. Y. Globose glands. Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 

18. Haines' Early, which Barry recommends as one of 
the best, is regarded by some as the same as the above, by 
others as distinct. 

19. George the Fourth. Large ; round, broad suture : 
pale yellowish-white, dark red cheek ; flesh melting, of a 
rich luscious flavor. 1st of Sept. Globose glands. Small 
flowers. One of the finest for garden culture. Origin, New 
York City. Some suppose that this is identical with Large 
Early York. 

20. Noblesse, Vanguard. Large ; roundish ; pale green, 
with a red cheek; flesh melting, very juicy, with a high 
luscious flavor. Freestone. First part of Sept. Leaves 
serrated, and glandless. Origin, England. 

21. Malta. Tolerably large; roundish, flattish. suture 
on one side ; pale green, with spots and blotches of dull pur- 
ple in the sun ; flesh greenish, dark red at the stone, melting, 
juicy, with a rich vinous and excellent flavor. Freestone. 
Early in Sept. Tree hardy, durable, moderate and regular 
bearer. Glandless. Large flowers. Foreign. 

22. Morris's Red Rareripe. Large ; roundish, depressed 



THE PEACH. 193 

at top, distinct suture ; greenish white, bright red cheek, 
flesh greenish white, red at the stone, very melting and juicy, 
with a fine sweet, rich flavor. Freestone. Former part of 
Sept. Globose glands. Small flowers. Esteemed highly 
in the Middle Region and further South. Originated by R. 
Morris, Esq., Philadelphia. 

23. Moore's Favorite Large ; roundish, suture round 
the fruit ; white, with a broad bright blush ; flesh white, fine, 
juicy, of a rich vinous flavor; stone small, free. Sept. 1 to 
15. Tree hardy, vigorous. Large leaves with globose glands. 
Garden of Mr. H. K. Moore, Chelsea, Ms. 

24. Large Early. Large; roundish, flattened at base, 
suture quite round it ; whitish, red cheek, purplish in the 
sun ; flesh white, red at the stone, delicate, of a sweet, very 
rich, and most delicious flavor. Stone very small. Sept. 1 
to 15. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. This name is 
a synonym of Large Early York, and improperly, as it is not 
very early. Much cultivated in Bristol Co., Ms. 

25. Briggs. Large; flattish-round ; suture mostly round 
it ; white, nearly covered with bright red ; flesh white, tinged 
with red at the stone ; very juicy, of a rich, sweet, slightly 
vinous flavor. Hardy. Has produced its like from seed for 
20 years. Freestone. Sept. 1 to 15. We consider this a 
valuable acquisition to our seedling list. Origin, Dedham, 
Ms. 

26. Yellow Rareripe. Large; roundish; deep yellow, 
rich red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, melting, juicy, 
of a fine, rich, vinous flavor. Former part of Sept. Native. 

27. Yellow Alberge, is good on light soils, but Briggs, 
Large Early, and other natives of the same time, are better. 

28. Jaques, Jaques's Rareripe. Extremely large ; round- 
ish-oblong, with a prominent point : yellowish, with a bright 
red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, juicy and pleasant. Free- 
stone. 1st to 15th of Sept. Vigorous and productive. Not 
of the highest flavor, but very salable. Only tolerably 
hardy. Origin, West Cambridge, Ms. 

29. Hale's Melocoton. Large medial ; oblong, flat at 
the base, slight suture on one side ; bright yellow ; flesh yel- 
low, of a very rich, sweet, and excellent quality. Keeps well. 
Freestone. Sept. 1 to 15. By Col. E. Hale, Stow, Ms. 
Produces its like from seed, and sufficiently early for more 
northern regions. 

30. Crawford's Early Melocoton, Crawford's Early, 

17 



194 AMERICAN FRUIT COOK. 

HilVs Lemon Rareripe. Extremely large ; roundish, point 
prominent ; slight suture ; yellow, with a red cheek ; flesh 
yellow, melting, rather acid, pretty good. 1st to 15th Sept. 
Hardy, vigorous and productive. Quality medial, but salable, 
from its size and beauty. Globose glands. Small flowers. 
Middletown, N. J. 

31. Lincoln. Very large ; roundish, large suture; rich 
yellow ; mostly covered with dark purplish red, much 
furzy ; flesh yellow, with a tinge of red at the stone, juicy, of 
a very rich, sweet and excellent flavor. Freestone. Sept. 
o or 10, to 20 or 25. Very hardy and productive. Fruit 
hardy. Globose glands. Has been cultivated 50 years in 
Lincoln, Ms., and ranks with the most profitable. 

32. Cutter, Cutter's Rareripe. This is almost precisely 
like Lincoln, excepting it ripens a few days earlier, and is 
not so furzy. Same glands. 

33. Brevoort. Large medial; round; suture deep at 
top ; yellowish-white, bright red cheek ; flesh rather firm, red 
tinge at the stone, of a rich, sweet high flavor. Middle of 
Sept. Reniform glands. Small flowers. Good for the gar- 
den. By H. Brevoort, Esq., New York. 

34. Tarbell. Very large ; roundish, little flattened at 
the base, broad, suture nearly round it ; rich yellow, mostly 
covered with deep red ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, very 
juicy, rich, sweet, and delicious. Sept. 10 to 25. The tree 
hardy, vigorous, and productive. Fruit hardy. One of the 
best for orchard culture, particularly in the North. Culti- 
vated by Mr. C. H. Tarbell, Lincoln, Ms., a skilful fruit- 
grower. 

35. Bellegarde. Large ; round ; shallow suture ; pale 
yellowish-green, a red cheek, with streaks of purple ; flesh 
red at the stone, a little firm, very melting, juicy, and high 
flavored. Middle of Sept. Globose glands ; small flowers. 
French origin. 

36. Clarke. Very large ; roundish; yellow, red blush; 
flesh yellow, tinge of red at the stone, very juicy, rich, 
sugary, of a peculiar, fine aroma. Sept. 10 to 20. A new 
seedling, by Mr. A. Clarke, Sherburne, Ms. 

37. Newman. Size rather large ; round ; greenish-white, 
blush in the sun ; flesh white, very juicy, melting, sweet and 
slightly vinous. Sept. 15 to 25. Medial growth. New 
seedling by Mr. Chas. Newman, Reading, Ms. One of the 
most hardy. 



THE PEACH. 195 

38. Owen, Owens Lemon Rareripe. Very large ; round- 
ish ; large suture ; rich yellow, mostly covered with dark-red 
or purplish-red in the sun ; flesh yellow, red tinge at the 
stone, tender, very juicy, of a delicious saccharine and slightly 
sub-acid flavor. Freestone. Sept. 15 to 30. Globose 
glands. A beautiful and excellent variety. The original 
tree is in the garden of Mr. J. Owen, Cambridge, Ms. 

39. Smith's Favorite. Very large; roundish; deep 
suture ; yellow, mostly covered with deep rich red ; flesh yel- 
low, juicy, of a sweet, rich and delicious flavor. First rate 
for general culture. Vigorous, hardy and productive. Fruit 
hardy. Freestone. One of the best for market. Reniform 
glands. Sept. 15 to 30. Cultivated by Mr. Calvin Smith, 
Lincoln, Ms., a very successful peach-grower. 

40. Hartshorn. Large ; roundish-oval - rich yellow 
deep blush ; flesh has a peculiar coarse grain, that fits it ad- 
mirably for preserves ; saccharine, and tolerably pleasant for 
eating. Keeps long. Clingstone. Sept. 15 to 30. Produces 
the same from seed. We have seedlings of it that are uni- 
form. By Mr. J. Hartshorn, Reading, Ms. 

41. Allen. Small ; roundish ; white ; red cheek ; flesh 
white, very juicy, of a pleasant vinous flavor. Hardy, and 
good bearer. Sept. 15 to 30. Has been raised 40 years from 
seed, uniformly true. Cultivated by several of its name, in 
Walpole, Ms. 

42. Large White Clingstone. Large; round, slight su- 
ture, small point ; white, with a reddish cheek or dots of red 
in the sun ; flesh whitish, melting, juicy, with a sweet, high r 
luscious flavor. Highly valuable for preserves. Middle to 
last of Sept. Tree hardy, vigorous, long-lived and produc- 
tive. Globose glands. Small flowers. Adapted to general 
culture in the N. England and Middle States. Origin, N. Y. 

43. Tufts's Rareripe. Medial ; roundish ; yellowish, with 
a bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, very sweet and 
luscious. Freestone. Middle to last of Sept. Very hardy, 
vigorous and productive. Globose glands. Originated by 
Mr. Bernard Tufts, Billerica, Ms. Produces the same from 
seed. We have hundreds of seedlings, all perfectly uni- 
form. 

44. Bergen's Yellow. Very large; roundish; depressed, 
suture distinct ; a dark red cheek, and dots of red on an 
orange ground ; flesh yellow, melting, very juicy, with a rich 
and excellent high flavor. Freestone. Sept. 20 to 30. Good 



196 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

grower and bearer. Reniform glands. Small flowers. One 
of the best for general culture. Origin, Long Island. 

45. Batchelder. Large; round; white, with a deep 
biush; flesh white, melting, juicy, very pleasant, vinous 
flavor. Should be well ripened on the tree. Sept, 20 to 30. 
One of the most hardy, and often gives a crop when others 
fail. Origin, Haverhill, Ms. Produces the same from 
seed. We have young trees all uniform, and the same as 
the parents, from Mr. Wm. Batchelder, South Reading, Ms. 

46. Late Admirable. Very large ; roundish, slightly 
oval ; large suture, small point at top ; yellowish-green; pale 
red cheek, marbled with dark red ; flesh greenish-white, red 
at the stone, melting, remarkably juicy, with a most delicious 
flavor. Freestone. Sep*t. 20 to 30. Hardy and productive. 
Globose glands. Small flowers. Fine for the private gar- 
den ; rather tender for market. Origin, France. 

47. Late Red Rareripe, Prince's Red Rareripe. Large ; 
roundish-oval ; downy, yellowish, marbled with reddish dots, 
a red cheek ; flesh white, deep red at the stone, melting, ex- 
ceedingly juicy, with an extremely rich, high, luscious flavor. 
Freestone. 15th to last of Sept. Hardy, vigorous, and pro- 
ductive. One of the best for general culture. Globose 
glands. Small flowers. 

48. Favorite. Large ; oval ; skin downy white, much 
red, dark in the sun ; flesh red at the stone, rather firm, juicy, 
vinous, but not rich. Latter part of Sept. Hardy, pro- 
ductive, and good for the market. Small globose glands. 
Small flowers. Native. 

49. Oldmixon Clingstone. Large ; roundish-oval ; 
suture at the top ; yellowish-white, with a red cheek ; flesh 
light, melting, juicy, with a very rich, high, luscious flavor. 
Last of Sept. Globose glands. Small flowers. A very val- 
uable variety. 

50. Oldmixon Freestone. Large ; roundish, inclining to 
oval ; suture only at top ; yellowish white, marbled with red. 
cheek deep red ; flesh white, very red at the stone, tender, 
with a rich, smart, vinous flavor. 20th to last of Sept. Glo- 
bose glands. Small flowers. A good kind for the market. 

51. Morris's White, White Rareripe. Rather large ; 
oval, suture medial, small point ; white, seldom a purple 
tinge in the sun ; flesh white, melting, of a rich sweet flavor. 
Last of Sept. Popular in warm regions, but poor in the North. 

52. Hall's Down-Easteh. Large; roundish; deep su- 



THE PEACH. 197 

ture ; yellow, broad fed cheek ; middling quality - Last of 
Sept. Hardy, productive, and early bearer. We have seen 
noble specimens in Maine; it is rather late for that climate. 
Originated by M. Hall, Esq., an intelligent and zealous 
fruit-cultivator, of Portland, Me. 

53. Crawford's Late Melocoton, Crawford^ Superb. 
Extremely large ; roundish-oval, slight suture ; yellow ; 
nearly half covered with dark red ; flesh deep yellow, red at 
the stone, melting, juicy, with a very fine, rich, vinous fla- 
vor. Freestone. Last of Sept. and 1st of Oct. Hardy, 
vigorous, and productive. Globose glands. Small flowers. 
Splendid, beautiful, one of the finest. Origin, same as 
Crawford's Early. 

54. Lemon Clingstone. Large 1 ; oblong, narrowed at top. 
pointed ; flesh firm, yellow, red tinge at the stone, rich, 
sprightly, sub-acid. Not of the finest flavor, but large, 
beautiful, and popular in the market Last of Sept. and first 
of Oct. Hardy and productive. Reniform glands. Native 
of S. C. 

55. Red-Cheek Melocoton. Large ; roundish-oval, a 
swollen point ; yellow ; a deep red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at 
the stone, melting, juicy, of a rich vinous flavor, frequently 
too acid. Freestone. Last of Sept. to Oct. 10. Globose 
glands. Small flowers. 

56. Kenrick's Heath. Very large ; oblong, with slight 
suture, and point at top ; pale greenish-white, purplish-red 
cheek ; flesh whitish, red at the stone, rather coarse, melting, 
juicy, sub-acid flavor, fine for preserves. Hardy, good 
bearer. Flourishes well in this region. Oct. 1. Reniform 
glands. Small flowers. Native of the North. 

57. Merriam. Extremely large ; short-oval ; light yellow, 
bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, red at the stone, melting, very 
juicy, of a sweet, luscious flavor. Of the first rank in size, 
beauty and quality. Oct. 1. Globose glands. New and 
promising. By E. Merriam, Roxbury, Ms. 

58. Druid Hill. Very large ; roundish ; pale greenish- 
white, clouded with red ; flesh greenish- white, purple at the 
stone, very melting and juicy, with an exceedingly high vi- 
nous flavor. Freestone. Early in Oct. Vigorous and pro- 
ductive. Globose glands. Small flowers. Downing, whom 
we copy, thinks it will be a great acquisition. New and not 
tried in the North. Originated by L. N. Rogers, Esq., 
Druid Hill, near Baltimore, Md. 



198 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

59. Poole's Large Yellow. Large ; roundish ; suture 
on one side ; deep yellow, dark red cheek ; flesh yellow, red 
at the stone, juicy, rich, excellent. Early in Oct. Reniform 
glands. Valuable for orchard culture. Origin, Pa. 

60. Heath, Heath Clingstone. Very large; oblong, large 
swollen point ; suture on one side ; downy, yellowish-white, 
tinge of red or brown. in the sun ; flesh greenish-white, very 
tender, melting, extremely juicy, with very high, rich, and 
most luscious flavor. In the Middle Regions of our country, 
(to which it is adapted, as well as further South,) it ripens in 
Oct. It is too late for N. England, except in warm locations 
in the southern parts. Largest and finest of clingstones. 
Native of Maryland. 

61. Smock's Freestone. Large ; oval, narrowed towards 
the stem ; light yellow, a red cheek in the sun ; melting, of a 
pleasant vinous flavor, tolerably juicy and pleasant. For- 
mer part of Oct., in the Middle States. Too late for the 
North. Origin, N. Y. 

62. Tippecanoe. Very large ; nearly round, with a point ; 
yellow, broad red cheek ; flesh yellow, juicy, of a fine vinous 
flavor. Clingstone. Oct. i to 15. Rather late for N. Eng- 
land, excepting for preserves, for which it is excellent. Great 
bearer. Reniform glands. Small flowers. By Mr. George 
Thomas, Philadelphia. 

63. Monstrous Pavie. Probably the Monstrous Cling of 
the "West. Very large, roundish-oval ; whitish, much red ; 
flesh firm, rather coarse, and wanting flavor, but showy and 
salable. Very late. Adapted to the southern part of the 
"Western States, and further South. French origin. 

64. Blood Cling. Very large ; roundish-oval, distinct 
suture ; very downy, dark purplish-red; flesh deep red, firm, 
and excellent for preserves. Oct. Reniform glands. Small 
flowers. 

65. La Grange. Large; oblong; greenish-white, red 
tinge, full in the sun ; melting, juicy, fine flavor. Oct. Late 
for this region. In the Middle States a valuable late kind 
for preserves. Native. 

Ornamental Varieties. The Double Blossomed has large 
showy flowers in profusion, and is very beautiful. The Flat 
Peach of China is more curious than beautiful ; the fruit 
being very flat. The Weeping Peach is singular, from its 
pendent habit. 



THE NECTARINE. 199 

The Nectarine (Amygdalus var.) 

Is only a smooth-skinned variety of the peach, more beau- 
ful, and from its smoothness, very liable to be destroyed by 
the curculio. Nectarines are occasionally produced from 
peach-stones, and the reverse, which shows their identity. 

1. Large Early Violet, of superior size, beauty, and ex- 
cellence. So says Mr. Wm. R. Prince, of Flushing, N. Y. 

2. Violet Hative, Early Violet, Violet Aromatic. Large, 
roundish ; yellowish-green, red in the sun, mottled with 
brown ; flesh whitish, with red at the stone, melting, rich, 
juicy, delicious flavor. Freestone. Sept. 1. Hardy and 
productive. Origin, France. 

3. Elruge, Claremont, Anderson's. Medial; roundish- 
oval ; pale green, blood red in the sun ; flesh pale green, red 
tinge at the stone, melting, juicy, fine rich flavor. Former 
part of Sept. Reniform glands. Origin, England. Produc- 
tive and one of the finest. 

4. Boston, Lewis, Perkins's Seedling. Large ; roundish, 
oval ; bright yellow, deep red cheek, beautiful ; flesh yellow, 
sweet, and pleasant ; but not rich. Freestone. Sept. Glo- 
bose glands. Origin, Boston, by Mr. Lewis. Brought into 
notice by Col. Perkins, of Brookline. 

5. Hunt's Tawney, Hunt's Early Tawney. Small medial ; 
roundish -ovate ; pale orange, dark red cheek in the sun. mot- 
tled with russety specks ; flesh deep orange, melting, juicy, 
rich and good. Freestone. Latter part of Aug. Hardy and 
good bearer. Serrated and glandless. 

6. Hardwick's Seedling. Very large; roundish-oval; 
pale green, red cheek ; flesh pale green, red tints at the stone, 
melting, of a rich, fine flavor. Former part of Sept. Reni- 
form glands. But little known in this country. Origin, 
England. 

7. Downton. Large ; roundish-oval ; pale green, deep 
red cheek ; flesh pale green, little red at the stone, melting 
and rich. 1st of Sept. Reniform glands. Small flowers. 
Foreign. 

8. New White. Tolerably large ; roundish ; white, a red 
tinge in the sun ; flesh white, tender, of a rich vinous flavor. 
Latter part of Sept. 

Among the best kinds are Large Early Violet, Elruge, 
Boston, and Hunt's Tawney. 



200 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



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TABLE OF PEACHES, 

In order of ripenin g. (Page 11.) 

Early Tilloison, . . 15 to last of Aug;. 

Early Chelmsford, 20 " " " " 

Early Maiden, .<«««< m 

Tufts's Early « « . « « « 

Early York, " " " 

White Imperial " " " 

Early Washington, Last of Aug. and 1st Sept. 

Red Rareripe, " " " " " " 

Royal George " « " " " " 

Coolidge, First of Sept. 

Hatch, " " " 

Gross Mignonne, " " " 

Large Early York, " " " 

Haine's Early, " " " 

George the Fourth, " " " 

Noblesse, First part of Sept, 

Morris's Red Rareripe, Former part of " 

Moore's Favorite, " " " " 

Large Early, " " " " 

Briggs, " " " " 

Yellow Rareripe, " " • " 

Jaques, " " « " 

Hale's Melocoton " " " " 

Crawford's Early Melocoton, 5 to 15 " " 

Cutter, Sept. 5 " 20 

Lincoln, " "or 10to20or25 

Brevoort, " " " " " " " " 

Belle?arde, " " " " " " " " 

Tarbell, " 10 " 12 " 25 

Newman, "15 to 

Owen, " " 

Smith's Favorite, " " " 30 

Hartshorn, " " " 

Lars;e White Cling, " " " " 

Tufts's Rareripe, " " " " 

Bergen's Yellow "20 " " 

Late Admirable, " " " " 

Batchelder " " " " 

Late Red Rareripe, " " " " 

Oldmixon Cling Last of Sept. 

Morris's White Rareripe, " " " 

Oldmixon Freestone, " " " 

Crawford's Late Melocoton, . . Last of Sept., 1 of Oct. 

Lemon Clingstone, " " " " " " 

Red Cheek Melocoton, " " " and into " 

Kenrick's Heath, Oct 1st. 

Meriam, " " 

Druid Hill, Early in Oct. 

Heath Former part of Oct. 

Tippecanoe " " " " 

Monstrous Pavie, Oct. 

Blood Cling " 

La Gransre 



PEACHES. 201 

For Northern Culture particularly, we have introduced a num- 
ber of hardy natives of the highest rank, such as Earlv Chelms- 
ford, Large Early, Briggs, Cutter, Lincoln, Tarhell, Owen, 
Smith's Favorite ; and forthis and a still more Northern region, 
Tufts's Early, Hatch, Briggs, Hale's Melocoton, Hartshorn, 
Tufts's Rareripe, and Batchelder, are valuable, as they are hardy 
natives of the North, and may be propagated true to their kind, 
by seed. Page 160. 

For the North, in a small way, Gen. Josiah Newhall, of 
Lynnfield, a very skilful cultivator, recommends budding early 
kinds on plum stocks, to dwarf them ; after one year's growth, 
cut back one third of the last growth, in Nov., bend the branches 
towards the centre, and tie them. Lay leaves or other litter 
around the roots, set branches of evergreens in the ground, and 
tie them snugly around the tops of the peach trees. This will 
save them from the hot sun, in mild days, and from a sudden 
morning thaw, after a freezing night. 

Early seedlings are adapted to this mode, and they may be 
dwarfed by heading-in (page 133.) In Russia, tender trees are 
cultivated by low horizontal training, the snow covering and 
protecting the branches. When snow is wanting, they may he 
covered with litter or mats ; or in the fall, laid on the ground and 
covered with earth. 

Ernst recommends the following, as free from any defective 
drawbacks in that climate ; Early York, Red Rareripe, Yellow 
Rareripe, Red Cheek Melocoton, Morris White Rareripe, George 
the Fourth, Noblesse, Gross Mignonne, Lemon Freestone, Mon- 
strous Cling, Late Admirable, Late Heath. 

Kirtland and Elliott recommend — For the Garden, Early 
Tillotson, Early York, Early Yellow Rareripe, Morris's Red 
Rareripe, President, Oldmixon Freestone, Malta, Crawford's 
Early, Crawford's Late, White Imperial, Ward's Late Free, Hy- 
slop's Cling. 

For Market — Early Yellow Rareripe, Early York, Morris's 
Red Rareripe, Crawford's Early Melocoton, President, Red Cheek 
Melocoton, Golden Ball, Crawford's Late Melocoton, Lemon 
Cling, Ward's Late Free, Hyslop's Cling, Heath Cling, (Heath) 
Bergen's Yellow, and many others, have not been fully tested 
here. 

The National Convention of Fruit-Growers, recom- 
mend, Gross Mignonne, George the Fourth, Coolidge's Favorite, 
Bergen's Yellow, Early York, Large Early York, Morris White, 
Oldmixon Freestone, Crawford's Late. For Particular Loca- 
tions, Heath Cling. 

Barry recommends for a succession from Aug. 1 to Oct., Early 
Tillotson, Early York, Haine's Early Red, Coolidge, Yellow 
Alherge, Crawford's Early Melocoton, Jaques, White Imperial, 
Lemon Clingstone, Large White Clingstone. 



202 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




THE DOMESTIC PLUM, (Primus domestica.) 



The Plum is a native of Asia, 
the South of Europe, and America; 
but most of our cultivated kinds are 
foreign, or descendants from them. 
It is a small tree, of a rather low, 
spreading form, generally of rapid 
growth, and moderate duration, often 
rather short-lived. 

Uses. The plum is a fine dessert 
fruit, some varieties being remarka- 
bly rich and luscious. It is used ex- 
tensively for preserves, for which it is excellent. Some acid 
and austere kinds are used exclusively for this purpose. It is 
also used for pies, tarts, sauces, and various condiments. In 
France, dried plums are an important article in commerce. 
Varieties called prunes are used in this way. Plums, well 
ripened, and used moderately, are nutritious and healthful, 
but in excess they are injurious, as they are very rich and 
cloying. 

Soil and Location. The best soil is a strong, moist, rich 
loam, inclining to clay, a dark, heavy mould, or a moist, 
yellow loam. A black, muddy soil, moist, but not wet, is 
excellent. The plum nourishes well on any tolerably moist 
tillage, and with care in culture and manure, to guard against 
drought, it succeeds on soils tolerably dry ; and some vari- 
eties are well adapted to rather dry soils. Light soils may 
be prepared for the plum; (page 30;) but the curculio is 
more liable to destroy the fruit on dry land. The plum is 
usually most productive in hollows, and low, rich, moist 
soils, not being liable to kill in the bud, like the peach and 
apricot. But on suitable soil, it succeeds also on high lands. 
Propagation is generally by budding and grafting. Some 
kinds are continued by seed true to their kinds. Seedlings 
are sometimes continued by suckers, to which the plum is 
often much inclined. Stocks are usually raised from seed. 
As soon as the stones are separated from the pulp, which is 
done in the same way as cherries, plant them, or put them 
in moist earth in a box, and set them in the cellar, or bury 
them in the ground, in the shade, at the surface, and sow 



THE PLUM. 203 

in fall or spring. Much care is necessary in keeping the 
seeds just moderately moist, and sufficiently exposed to the 
atmosphere to cause the stones to begin to crack open in 
season for spring planting, and yet retard them when for- 
ward, that they may not grow too soon. Plant in a rich, 
mellow soil, in drills 1, 2, or 3 feet apart, as you may have 
land, or choose to cultivate, with a horse or not. After 2 
years' growth, or one, if very vigorous, plant out in spring, 
as directed for apples, and if they are thrifty, bud the same 
season. 

With a vigorous stock, half an inch or more in diameter, 
graft at the ground, and it will soon send up a strong stem. 
Better graft the Canada stock an inch or two below the sur- 
face, as the graft usually outgrows the stock, as the earth 
will hide the deformity, and re-rooting may be effected. 
Peach stocks are sometimes used for the plum, but they are 
less hardy and durable, though they do well in some cases. 

Planting, Culture, Manure, and Pruning. As many 
varieties are naturally small, and others are often made so 
by the dwarfish nature of the stocks, and diseases and other 
evils are apt to shorten the life or check the growth of the 
plum, it is best to set near, and cut away on interfering, as 
recommended for the apple and pear ; for the pi am bears 
early, and if set near, it will bear much fruit without inter- 
fering, and afford more profit. A rod apart is a good dis- 
tance for plums, and but few trees attain a size to fill the 
space. This would give 160 to the acre ; but if we would 
make the most from an acre, from plums, we would set § a 
rod apart, 360 trees to the acre ; they would soon begin to 
bear, and continue for years, affording more than double the 
profit of distant planting, and when they interfered, which 
some would never do, remove or head in the poorest. 

The land should be well manured and cultivated. (See 
page 51.) No weeds or grass should grow around the trees, 
and the soil should be stirred often, especially a dry soil, in 
a dry season. (See page 52.) The larger crop, superior 
size, and excellence of fruit, will far more than pay for good 
culture. Prune but little, only cutting away dead and de- 
caying and interfering limbs. If a tree becomes top-heavy, 
or needs pruning to renovate it when declining, or becomes 
stinted and barren, shorten-in the limbs, as in pruning peach- 
es, but do not cut at the trunk, excepting decaying limbs. 
Stone fruit should not be pruned at the stem, but at the ends 




204 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

of the branches. Use the same manure as for the apple and 
pear. In the wood, bark, and the fruit of the plum, there 
is a considerable quantity of lime and potash. So apply 
wood ashes, lime, old mortar, plaster, &c. Salt is a good 
manure to promote growth and health, and a guard against 
insects. 

Curculio, or Plum-weevil, 
(Rhynchcerus nenuphar,) is here 
represented in its different stages. 

(1.) Curculio in the perfect or jfl^ffj|jhk * 
beetle state, as large as life. ©w!Wlilk 

(2.) Its assumed form, when 
disturbed, or shaken from the 
tree. 

(3.) Larva, or worm, as found 
in the fallen fruit. 4 

(4.) Pupa, or chrysalis form, in which it lives in the 
ground, and the last stage before the perfect state. 

On the figure of a plum are the crescent-shaped marks, 
as made by this insect. 

The color of the curculio is dark brown, variegated with 
spots of white, yellow, and black. These insects appear 
from the latter part of April until the last of July, according 
to the season. Soon after the blossoms fall, they begin to 
puncture the little plum with their snout or rostrum, and lay 
an egg in the wound. The gum oozes out, the egg hatches, 
the worm eats towards the centre of the.fruit, which falls, 
often before a quarter grown, and the worm enters the earth, 
where it remains in the pupa state, some say only a few 
weeks, others say till the next season. Its habits are not 
well known. It flies from the ground to the tree. 

These insects are very destructive to. plums, sometimes 
destroying whole crops to a vast extent. They also attack 
other smooth-skinned fruits, such as apricots, nectarines, 
cherries, and apples. But cherries and apples are not gen- 
erally much injured, though the former are often marked by 
these insects. Among the mischievous curculios is a harm- 
less insect of a larger size and similar appearance, which 
may be the male. 

Prevention and Remedies. One of the best is a moist, 
heavy soil, affording the insect but a poor shelter in the 
ground ; and plums flourish well in such soils, and so do 
apricots on plum stock. In most cases, 1 quart of salt to a 



THE PLUM. 205 

small, 2 to a medial, and 4 to a large tree, or half a peck to a 
square rod, applied to the ground as far as the limbs extend, 
as soon as the snow is off in spring, has been a preventive ; 
by affecting the insect in the earth, as some suppose ; but 
Dr. Shurtleff thinks the salt gives a distaste to the fruit. 
We have generally found this effectual, and we have known 
numerous cases of its complete success. The salt is a good 
manure for the plum. 

By jarring or briskly shaking the tree, when these insects 
are operating on the fruit, in morning and evening, they will 
fall, and may be caught on cloth, where they will be still till 
they may be destroyed. Give a sadden jar to the tree or 
branches, using a mallet covered with a pad, or soft, thick 
cloth. AH the fallen fruit of plums should be picked up, 
and the worms destroyed. Or let hogs run under the trees 
for this purpose. 

Take tubs, tight boxes, or other vessels, whitewash them 
inside, place them under the tree, almost up to the limbs, put 
in an inch or two of water, in the dusk of the evening, when 
curculios appear, and set a light in the tub, and many will be 
caught. Make the earth smooth around the trees, and let 
fowls run among them. 

One person, who threw ashes on his trees,as the blossoms 
were going off, thought they were useful. Apply them when 
the dew is on. Two barrow -loads of fresh horse manure under 
some plum trees, just as the fruit began to swell, was thought 
to protect them from the curculio, by gases arising from fer- 
mentation. 

A cultivator informed us, that after his plums had been 
destroyed several years by curculios, he put a layer of fresh 
oyster shells around his trees, three inches deep, and as far 
as the limbs extended, and beat them down hard. He was 
not troubled afterwards, during a number of years that he 
remained on the place. In other cases, the fruit has been 
saved by a brick pavement, or hard path, under the trees, 
preventing the insects from burrowing in the earth. Some 
think the parent is so sagacious as not to lay eggs where the 
progeny will not find a good burrow beneath. Numerous 
insects may be caught in bottles. (Page 74.) 

Black Wart is a singular disease, commencing in a kind 
of tumor or swelling, and continuing to increase till it be- 
comes a large, black bunch, disfiguring the tree, and spread- 
ing until it kills it. It also spreads rapidly from one tree to 
18 




206 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

another. No satisfactory cause has ever been as- 
signed for this disorder. It attacks both vigorous 
and stinted trees, old and young, in wet land and 
dry. Some have regarded salt, applied to the soil, 
and in solution to the affected part, as a sure rem- 
edy, but this has been disproved. 

The only remedy is to cut off the bunches as fast 
as they appear, and burn them. Let there be no 
delay, and cut freely, to the excision of every dis- 
eased part. Though salt is not always a remedy 
or preventive of this disease, its use lessens its oc- 
Biack currence and severity. Copperas water, applied to 
Wart. t h e affected parts, after cutting off the black part, 
has appeared to be useful. 

Varieties. We have many valuable kinds, as to quality, 
yet some are uncertain in production and hardiness of fruit, 
and some are new and have not been fairly tried and com- 
pared, so that it is difficult to make a selection ; for many of 
great beauty and excellent flavor often fail, while other hardy 
and productive kinds, of inferior quality, are more profita- 
ble, especially for market. Such is the case with Lombard, 
Red Gage, Diamond, Smith's Orleans, Cruger's Scarlet, and 
others. Some that are hardy and productive are also excel- 
lent in flavor, but usually the finest kinds are delicate and 
uncertain. 

Sometimes, in a large collection, a few trees of Smith's 
Orleans and Red Gage afford more profit than all the rest. 
Again, the coarse kinds, such as Diamond and Semiana, are 
the only productive varieties among many fine sorts. Sev- 
eral of great promise, such as Peach, Lawrence's Favorite, 
Jefferson, Imperial Ottoman, M'Laughlin, Washington Seed- 
ling, Ida Green Gage, and Schenectady Catharine, have not 
yet been extensively tried. 

1. Early Genesee. Medial; long-ovate; yellow. Same 
time as the White Primordian, and better bearer. Origin, 
Brighton, Monroe Co., N. Y. New. L. B. Langworthy, in 
Gen. Far. 

2. White Primordian, Jaime Hative, Early Yellow. Small ; 
obovate ; yellow ; stem £ inch long, slender, very narrow, 
deep cavity ; flesh yellow, rather juicy, pleasant, but not high 
flavor. Last of July. The earliest, excepting Early Gene- 
see. A slow grower, good bearer. 

3. Cherry, Early Scarlet. Small medial ; round ; bright 



THE PLUM. 



207 



red, like a cherry ; melting, soft, juicy, of a brisk, pleasant, 
sub-acid flavor. Last of July and first of Aug. Salable. 
Poor bearer, and the birds eat them. Downing says, Mr. S. 
Reeves, Salem, N. J., induces bearing by transplanting every 
4 or 5 years, and he thinks root pruning would have the 
same effect ; and that Mr. R. has a seedling of this species, 
the Golden Cherry plum, that bears abundantly. 

4. Henrietta Gage. Size of Green Gage ; paler color; 
high flavor. Aug. 1. Fair grower and good bearer. Ori- 
gin, Henrietta, Monroe County, N. Y. New. L. B. Lang- 
worthy, in Gen. Far. 

5. Peach Plum, 
PrwiePeche. Very 
large ; flattish- 
round, broad, shal- 
low suture on one 
side ; brownish-red 
or salmon-color in 
the shade, pur- 
plish-red in the 
sun, golden russet I 
specks and patch- 1 
es, blue bloom 
stem short, rather 
stout, in a deep, 
narrow cavity ; a 
small hollow at 
top ; flesh green- 
ish pale yellow ; 
very juicy, of a 
sweet, lively, delicious flavor. Aug. 1 to 20. A rapid, 
strong, upright grower, and good bearer. One of the largest 
and best, and quite early. Imported into this region, a few 
years ago, from France. 

6. Royale de Tours. Tolerably large ; roundish ; reddish- 
violet, minute yellow dots, blue bloom ; stem stout, in a 
small cavity ; flesh greenish-yellow, tinged with red around 
stone, rather firm, juicy, of a fine flavor. Sept. 10 to 20. 
Not equal to Prince's Yellow Gage, but a little earlier. 
French origin. 

7. Early Orleans, New Early Orleans, and Wilmofs New 
Early Orleans, are about the same. Medial ; roundish-oval ; 

<dark red, purple in the sun ; stem medial size, in a moderate 




208 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




depression ; flesh greenish, brisk and rather rich flavor. 
Freestone. Aug. 10 to 20 or 25. Productive. Branches 
downy. Sprangling grower. A prodigious bearer. Foreign. 

8. Imperial Ottoman. Me- 
dial ; roundish, oval ; pale 
greenish-yellow, marbled with 
darker shades, thin bloom, 
generally resembling the Im- 
perial Gage ; stalk medial 
length, slender, in a slight 
cavity ; flesh melting, very 
juicy, sweet and excellent fla- 
vor. Almost freestone. Aug. 
10 to 20. Few days earlier 
than Prince's YeMow Gage. 
Tree very hardy and uniform- 
ly productive, suited to almost 
any climate and soil ; flourish- 
es well in Bangor, Me. Fruit 
hangs pretty well, and is rath- 
er hardy. 

9. Yellow Gage, Prince's Yellow Gage. 
Large medial ; oval, tapering a little to the 
top, slight suture ; golden yellow, well cov- 
ered with white bloom ; stalk medial size, in 
a small cavity ; flesh yellow, melting, rich, 
and sugary. Freestone. 12 to the 25th of 
Aug. The tree very hardy, 
vigorous, and good bearer ; 
forms a large, spreading 
head. Mr. Henry Van- 
dyne, a zealous fruit- 
grower of Cambridgeport, 
raised, in one season, 51 
dollars' worth from one tree. 
The quality is superior to 
most plums of its season. 

10. Hudson Gage. Me- 
dial ; oval ; yellow, clouded 
with green ; stem short, in 
a' moderate cavity ; flesh 
melting, of a rich, spright- 
ly, excellent flavor. Almost 
freestone. 2d and 3d weeks in Aug. 




THE PLUM. 



209 



11. Morocco. Medial ; roundish ; dark purple ; flesh yel- 
lowish, juicy, rich, and sweet. Slightly cling. Aug. 10 to 
20 or 25. Not first rate. 

12. Drap d'Or, or Cloth of Gold, Yellow Perdrigon. Small ; 
round ; bright yellow, few crimson specks ; flesh yellow, 
sugary, rich, but sometimes rather dry. Freestone. 15 to 25 
of Aug. Much esteemed in the West, and does well here, 
but too small for market. 

13. M'Laughlin. Large ; round ; 
russet yellow, tinged with red, thin 
bloom ; stem nearly an inch long, in a 
slight cavity ; flesh yellow, rather firm, 
juicy, of a sweet, luscious flavor. 
Clingstone. August 
15 or 20. Stout, vig- 
orous growth ; good 
bearer. Hardy for 
the North. Tried only 
in light soil. Origi- 
nated by James M'- 
Laughlin, Esq., Ban- 
gor, Me. Only a little 
known. Little regards 
it as first rate, espe- 
cially for the North. 

14. Apricot. Large 
medial ; roundish ; 
yellow, tinged with 
red ; melting, pleasant flavor. Aug. 20 to 30. 

15. Pond's Seedling. Medial ; roundish, slightly ovate ; 
purple ; stem short and slender ; flesh yellowish, dryish, 
tolerably good. Freestone. Aug. 20 to Sept. 5. Productive. 
Origin, Boston. 

16. German Prune, Quetsche, Sweet Prune. Large ; long- 
oval, swollen on one side, distinct suture ; purple, thick blue 
bloom ; stem moderate length, slender ; flesh green, firm, 
sweet, and pleasant. Freestone. Latter part of Sept. Ex- 
cellent for preserving and drying, and tolerably good for the 
table. A great bearer, and hangs long on the tree. 

17. Austrian Quetsche is similar to the above, but rather 
later, and superior in flavor. 

18. Italian Damask. Medial; roundish; brownish or 

18* 




210 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




violet ; flesh firm, sweet, fine flavor. Freestone. Last of 
Aug. and into Sept. Tolerably good. 

19. Royal Hative, Early Royal. Medial ; 
roundish, little widest towards the stem; 
light purple, dotted and streaked with dark 
yellow, blue bloom ; stalk 
\ an inch long, in very slight 
cavity ; flesh yellow, tender, 
juicy, of a very rich, high fla- 
vor. Freestone. Aug. 20 to 
Sept. 5. Resembling Purple 
Gage, in appearance, quality, 
leaf, and growth, excepting 
wood is very downy. 3 weeks 
earlier. One of the very best 
early plums. Hardy, vigor- 
ous, and productive. French 
origin. 

20. Yellow Egg Plum, Wldte Magnum Bonum. Very 
large ; oval ; distinct suture ; yellow, with white dots, thin, 
white bloom. Stalk an inch long, stout ; flesh rather coarse 
and acid. Clingstone. Last of Aug. and first of Sept. Poor 
for the dessert. Excellent for cooking, and salable ; but 
poorer bearer than the Purple Egg. 

21. Corse's Field Marshal. Tolerably large ; oval; pur- 
plish ; flesh juicy, rather tart. Clingstone. Last of Aug. 
Origin, near Montreal. 

22. Duane's Purple, Duane's Purple French formerly. 
Very large ; oval ; shallow suture red, reddish purple in 
the sun, yellow specks, lilac bloom ; stem nearly an inch 
long, slender, in narrow cavity ; juicy, sprightly, rather 
sweet. Aug. 25 to Sept. 15. Moderate bearer. 

23. Washington, Bolmar. Very large ; roundish-oval, 
similar to Jefferson, with a suture quite distinct near the 
stalk ; greenish dull yellow, deep yellow in the sun, some- 
times with dots or a tinge of pale crimson ; a thin, light 
bloom, stalk short, rather stout, in a shallow, wide cavity ; 
flesh yellowish, firm, very sweet and luscious, but often 
rather insipid. Freestone. Aug. 25 to Sept. 10. Hardy, a 
good grower, but moderate or poor bearer, and very liable 
to rot. Origin, New York city. Its large size gives it a 
popularity beyond its merits. 

24. Apple Plum. Rather large ; flattish, like a flat ap- 



THE PLUM. 



211 



pie ; reddish-purple, specked and marbled with greenish- 
golden yellow, light blue bloom ; stem § of an inch long, 
stout, in a broad, deep cavity, at which is a deep suture ; 
flesh greenish yellow, tender, of a rich, lively, saccharine, 
and vinous flavor. Aug. 25 to Sept. 10. Strong, vigorous 
grower, bearing not settled. Garden of Mr. D. U . Pratt, 
Chelsea. Probably a new and valuable variety. 

25. Cruger's Scarlet. Large medial ; roundish-oval, 
slight suture ; lilac and fawn-color, bright red in the sun ; 
stem half an inch long, in a shallow cavity; flesh orange, 
of a mild, pleasant flavor, but neither juicy nor rich. Last 
of Aug. and first of September. Hardy, and great bearer. 
A good, showy market fruit. It hangs on well. Not liable 
to injury by the curculio. 

26. Green Gage, Reine Claude. Me- 
dial ; flattish round, faint suture ; yellow- 
ish-green, marbled or dotted with red in the { 
sun; stem short, slender, in a slight_de- 
pression; flesh green, very 
melting, of sweet, rich, lus- 
cious flavor. A standard of 
excellence. Freestone. Last 
of Aug. and into Sept. Grows 
slowly, scragly, and spread- 
ing. A good bearer. Fruit 
rather liable to crack in wet 
weather. There are various 
modifications of the Green 
Gage. We have a large va- 
riety here, which we have 
never seen excelled in flavor. 

27. Washington Seedling 
tied with crimson ; flesh very tender, sweet, and delicious. 
Nearly as large as Washington ; handsomer, and superior 
quality. Last of Aug. to Sept. 10. A moderate grower. 
Origin, Ives's garden. New, and not yet tested. From seed 
of Washington. 

28. Denniston's Superb. Medial ; round, slightly flat- 
tened ; distinct suture ; yellowish green, with few purple 
blotches, thin bloom ; rough stem, f inch, in a middle-sized 
cavity ; flesh tolerably juicy, of a rich vinous flavor. Last 
of Aug. and first of Sept. Seedling raised by Mr. Dennis- 
ton, Albany, N. Y. 




Origin, France. 

Large ; oval ; yellow, mot- 



212 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




29. Lawrence's Fa- 
vorite. Rather large ; 
roundish, slightly oval, 
with flattish ends; yel- 
lowish - green, clouded 
with darker streaks, light 
greenish bloom, at full 
maturity brownish blotch- 
es and reddish specks 
around the stem ; stalk 
short and slender, in a 
small cavity ; flesh green- 
ish, melting, very juicy, 
of a brisk, delicious, vi- 
nous flavor, resembling 
and almost equal to the 
Green Gage, and larger. 
Almost freestone. Last of Aug. to Sept. 15. Vigorous, up- 
right growth ; moderate bearer. Originated by Mr. L. U. 
Lawrence, Hudson, N. Y. 

30. Purple Gage, Reine Claude Violette. 
Medial ; roundish, flattened at the ends, 
shallow suture ; skin rather thick, violet, 
yellow dots, blue bloom ; stem nearly an 
inch long, rather stout; flesh yellowish, 
rather firm, of a rich, su- 
gary, high, luscious flavor, 
almost equal to Green 
Gage. Freestone. Aug. 
25 to Sept. 25, and lasts 
through the month. Fruit 
very hardy, hanging long 
on the tree, shriveling 
slightly. Excellent for the 
dessert and for preserves. 
Great bearer. Foreign. 

31. Ida Green Gage. 
A new seedling from the 
Green Gage, which it re- 
sembles. About the same 
appearance and quality, excepting purplish- red in the sun. 
A few days later. Native of Mount Ida, near Troy, N. Y. 

32. Red Gage. Large medial ; roundish oval ; brownish 




THE PLUM. 



213 




yellow ana brownish red ; stem medial, 
in a narrow cavity • flesh greenish, 
melting, very sugary and pleasant. 
Freestone. Aug. 25 to 
Sept. 15. Hardy, very 
vigorous, and productive. 
Not liable to rot. Very 
profitable for the market. 
Origin, Flushing, N. Y. 

33. Imperial Gage, 
Prince's Imperial Gage, 
White Gage by some 
around Boston. Large 
medial ; oval, distinct su- 
ture ; pale green, with a 
yellow tinge, and cloud- 
ing of darker green, thick 
white bloom ; stem me- 
dial, in a moderate cavity ; flesh greenish, melting, very 
juicy, of a rich, sprightly, delicious flavor. Mostly freestone. 
1 to 15 Sept. A vigorous grower and prodigious bearer. 
Dark shoots and leaves. Fruit rather inclined to rot. Adapt- 
ed to rather dry soils. Native of Flushing, N. Y. 

34. Schenectady Catharine. Medial ; 
roundish, shallow suture ; deep purple, violet 
in the shade, thin azure bloom ; stem medial 
length, slender ; flesh greenish yellow, very 
melting, juicy, honeyed richness, delicious, 
high flavor, equal to the Green Gage. Free- 
stone. Early in Sept. Hov- 
ey's Magazine. 

35. Goliath. Large ; 
roundish oblong ; purplish 
red ; handsome, juicy, 
brisk, but not excellent. 
Early in Sept. 

36. Horse Plum, Large\ 
Early Damsoti, Sweet Dam- 
son. Medial ; oval ; red- 
dish, purple in the sun ; 
rather dry and acid. Free- 
stone. First of Sept. Very 
common, especially in the 




214 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Middle States. The seeds produce good stocks, or the same 
kind of fruit, which is rather poor. 

37. Bleecker's Gage. Large medial; 
roundish oval, slight suture; greenish 
yellow, specks in the sun, thin, white 
bloom; stem quite long, stout, straight, 
downy ; sweet, luscious flavor. First 
rate. Almost freestone. Early in Sept. 
Hardy, thrifty, good bearer. Branch- 
es downy, leaves dark 
green. Very popular in 
Northern and Western N. 
York. 

38. Isabella. Medial ; 
oval ; red ; handsome ; 
rather rich, brisk, sub- 
acid ; good and showy, but 
not first rate. Early in 
Sept. 

39. Oran&e. Extreme- 
ly large ; flattish-oval ; 
yellowish white dots, pur- 
plish red near the stalk, 
which is three fourths of 
an inch long, in a narrow 
cavity ; flesh yellow, rather 
coarse texture, not very 
good flavor, but salable 
from its large size, and 
profitable from its great 
bearing. Freestone. For- 
mer part of Sept. Origin, 
Rhinebeck, N. Y., sup- 
posed. 

40. Smith's Orleans, 
Cooper's Red, by some in- 
correctly called Violet Per- 
digron, or Red Magnum 
Bonum. Large ; round- 
ish-oval ; broadest at the 
base, distinct suture on one 

: ide ; reddish purple, azure 
•loom ; stem short, slen- 




THE PLUM. 



215 



der, in a deep, narrow cavity ; flesh yellow, rather firm, 
juicy, of a sprightly, vinous flavor. Clingstone. Sept. 1 to 
20. Tree hardy and vigorous, and adapted to various cli- 
mates and soils. Very good for market. Rather inclined 
to rot, when hanging very thick. 

41. Dana's Gage. Large medial; oval; pale yellow, 
clouded, thin bloom ; juicy, sweet, of a lively and peculiar 
rank flavor, unpleasant to most persons. Clingstone. For- 
mer part of Sept. Hardy and productive. 

42. Jefferson. Very large ; roundish 
oval ; golden yellow, purplish red in the 
sun, white bloom ; stem an inch long, 
rather stout, in slight cavity, very slight 
suture ; flesh orange, very juicy, rich, 
and high-flavored, 
almost equal to 
Green Gage. Al- 
most freestone. Sep- 
tember 1 to 20. A 
good bearer. Fruit 
not liable to rot, and 
hangs long. Among 
the best. Originat- 
ed by Judge Buel, 
Albany. 

43. Hulin&'s Su- 
perb. Very large ; 
roundish-oval; sim- 
ilar to Jefferson in 
size and form, dis- 
tinct shallow su- 
ture ; dull greenish 
yellow, thin, pale 

bloom ; stem an inch long, stout, in a small cavity ; flesh 
greenish yellow, texture little coarse, rich, sprightly, excel- 
lent flavor, with slight acid blended with sweetness. Sept. 
1 to 20. A good grower, stout, blunt shoots. A moderate 
bearer. Origin, Pa. 

44. Nectarine, Louis Philippe, Caledonian, Large Early 
Black, Bradsharv. Very large ; roundish ; purple, a little blue 
bloom ; stem two thirds of an inch long, stout, in a wide, 
shallow cavity ; flesh greenish yellow, tinged with red, a 
little coarse, of middling quality only. Partially clingstone. 




216 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Sept. 1 to 20. A good grower and moderate bearer. French 
origin. 

45. Imperial Lilac. A seedling by Dr. Shurtleff, which 
he recommends as superior in flavor. But little known. 

46. Columbia. Extremely large ; roundish ; brownish 
purple, many fawn-colored specks ; thick bloom ; stalk al- 
most an inch, stout, in a narrow cavity ; flesh orange, rather 
dry, but rich, sugary, and excellent. Freestone. Former 
part of Sept. Very productive. A fine fruit, but it falls, 
and is apt to rot. Downing and Barry prefer it to Duane's 
Purple, in quality. Better than Nectarine. 

47. Red Diaper, Diapree Rouge Mimms. Large ; obovate ; 
reddish purple, few golden specks, blue bloom ; flesh pale- 
green, juicy, very melting, rich and delicious. First rate. 
Freestone. Former part of Sept. Slow grower. Good 
bearer. Fruit hangs well ; but little liable to rot. 

48. Purple Favorite. Rather large; 
roundish-obovate, no suture ; light brown, 
brownish purple in the sun, many gold- 
en specks, thin, blue bloom ; stalk 
to 1 inch long, in slight 
depression ; flesh pale- 
green, tender, melting, 
juicy, sweet, and unsur- 
passed in luscious flavor. 
Freestone. Sept. 5 to 20 
(here). More juicy and 
melting than Purple Gage. 
Hardy, and good bearer, 
with the dwarfish habit 
of the Green Gage. Ori- 
gin unknown. Downing. 

49. Purple Egg Plum, 
Red Magnum Bonum. 
Large ; oval, distinct su- 
ture ; pale red, deep in the 
sun, many gray spots ; stalk long, slender ; flesh greenish, 
firm, coarse, acid. Freestone. For preserves and cooking. 
Former part of Sept. Salable in market, but generally poor 
bearer. Sometimes a great bearer on light soils. 

50. Diamond. Large; oval; black, blue bloom; stem 
nearly an inch long, in a narrow cavity ; flesh yellow, very 
coarse texture, rather dry, slightly acid, wanting flavor. 




THE PLUM. 217 

Used for cooking. Freestone. During Sept. Hardy, great 
grower, sure and great bearer. Fruit hardy, enduring storms, 
and hanging long on the tree. Profitable for the market. 

51. Lombard, Bleecker's Scarlet. Medial,* roundish-oval, 
flattish at the ends, slight suture ; pale red, with darker red 
dots, violet-red in the sun, thin bloom ; stalk two thirds of 
an inch long, slender, in a narrow cavity ; flesh deep yellow, 
juicy, pleasant, but not excellent flavor. Clingstone. Sept. 
5 to 25. Hardy and vigorous. Great bearer ; fruit hardy. 
Profitable for the market. Adapted to light soils. Native. 

52. Royal. Large medial ; roundish ; reddish-purple, 
brown specks ; rather firm, melting, and juicy, of extremely 
rich, vinous flavor. Sept. Fine for the garden. 

53. Binoham. Large ; oval ; yellow, reddish in the sun ; 
juicy, rich, and pleasant. Middle of Sept. Origin, Pa. 

54. Corse's Nota Bene. Rather large ; oval ; dull-green- 
ish, pale-brown in the sun, blue bloom ; stem half an inch 
long, in a round cavity ; flesh greenish, rather firm, juicy, 
rich, and tolerably sweet. Freestone. Middle of Sept. 
Very handsome, and a good variety, particularly for the 
North. By Henry Corse, Esq., near Montreal, Canada. 
This is the best of his seedlings. 

55. Damson. A well known, small, oval, purple plum, 
melting, juicy, tart, and excellent for preserves ; an enor- 
mous and sure bearer. Profitable for market. Latter part 
of Sept. There are several varieties from seed. The 
Shropshire is superior. The Sweet is less acid. The 
Winter is later, too late for the North. 

56. Sharp's Emperor. Large ; roundish-oval ; red ; pleas- 
ant, and handsome, not first rate ; but a great bearer, and 
good for market. Last of Sept. 

57. Domine Dull, German Prune. Medial; long-oval; 
purplish-black, blue bloom ; stem three fourths of an inch 
long, in a slight cavity ; flesh yellow, very juicy, becoming 
dry as it hangs on the tree, rich and sweet. Clingstone. 
Latter part of Sept., and continues long. A profuse bearer. 
Native. 

58. Semi ana. Rather small ; oval ; dark blue ; harsh, 
acid, for preserves only, but a great and sure bearer, and 
profitable for the market. Hangs late. 15 Sept. into Oct. 
Incorrectly called Blue Imperatrice by some in this region. 

59. Autumn Gage, Roe's Autumn Gage. Large medial; 
oval, slightly ovate ; pale yellow, thin bloom ; stem two 

19 



218 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



thirds of an inch long, no cavity; flesh greenish yellow, 
juicy, of a sweet, delicious flavor. Freestone. Latter part 
of Sept. Hardy, very productive. This new plum flourishes 
well here, and promises to be one of the best late kinds. 
More profitable for the North, than Coe's Golden Drop. 
Originated by Wm. Roe, Esq.,Newburgh, N. Y. 

60. Corse's Admiral. Large medial ; obovate-oval ; light 
purple, yellow specks, lilac bloom ; flesh sprightly and juicy, 
not first rate, but well adapted to the North, being a native 
of Canada. Late in Sept. Productive. 

61. Lovett's Late Long Blue. Excellent and long 
keeping 

62. Coe's Golden Drop. Very large ; 
oval ; narrowed towards the stalk, dis- 
tinct suture ; greenish light yellow, with 
specks and patches of scarlet in the sun ; 
fight bloom ; stalk nearly an inch long, 
no cavity ; flesh yel- 
low, firm, melting, 
of a rich, sugary, de- 
licious flavor. Cling- 
stone. Last of Sept. 
to middle of Oct. 
Good bearer. Fruit 
hangs long, and 
keeps long off the 
tree. One of the 
best late kinds in 
the Middle and 
"Western States, ex- 
cepting the north- 
ern part. Too late 
for N. England, yet 
does pretty well in 
warm locations and 
favorable seasons. 

63. Blue Impeka- 
trice. Medial; ob- 
ovate ; dark purple, 
thick bloom ; stem 
rather long, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh yellowish, rather 
firm, dryish, but very rich, sugary ; excellent for preserves, 
and for the table when fully ripe. Clingstone. Oct ."ami 




THE PLUM. 219 

into November. Hangs long on the tree, and keeps well 
after gathered. Tree hardy and very productive. Fruit 
very hardy. One of the best late plums. Foreign. 

64. St. Catharine. Medial; obovate, distinct suture; 
pale yellow, sometimes reddish in the sun, white bloom ; 
stem nearly an inch long, slender, in a slight cavity ; flesh 
yellow, rather firm, juicy, of a sprightly, rich flavor. Cling- 
stone. Last of Sept. and first of Oct. Great bearer. Val- 
uable for preserving and for the dessert. In France used 
extensively for preserves. 

65. Manning's Long Blue Prune or Plum. Very large; 
long-oval ; dark purple, thick blue bloom ; stem very long 
and slender, in a very slight cavity ; flesh yellowish, firm, 
rather juicy, with a sweet, sprightly flavor. Almost freestone. 
Middle Sept. to last of Oct. Very great bearer. Fruit very 
hardy, and lasts long ; excellent for the market. Manning 
had it from Philadelphia, without a name. 

66. Coe's Late Red. Medial ; roundish, with distinct su- 
ture ; purplish light red, blue bloom ; stem tolerably long, 
stout, in a very slight depression ; flesh yellowish, tolerably 
firm and crisp, juicy, of a rich, pleasant, vinous flavor. Al- 
most freestone. Oct. and Nov., in the Middle and Western 
States, where it is excellent, but we find it too late for this 
climate. Very vigorous and productive. 

67. Fkost Gage, Frost Plum. Small ; roundish-oval, 
distinct suture ; deep purple ; flesh greenish- yellow, melting, 
rich, and sweet. Rather acid, and excellent for preserves 
while greenish ; but when fully ripe, sweet and delicious 
for the table. Clingstone. Middle of Oct. and till late frosts. 
A tall, upright grower, and great bearer. Origin, Fishkill, 
N. Y., where it is extensively cultivated for the market. As 
it is late, it is in good demand in this market. 

68. Ickworth's Imperatrice. Large medial; obovate; 
purple, embroidered with fawn color ; stalk medial size ; 
flesh greenish-yellow, juicy, of a sweet, rich flavor. Mostly 
clingstone. In the Middle Region ripens early in Oct., and 
will keep long, becoming dry and sugary, like a prune. A 
highly valuable variety, but rather late for the North. For- 
eign. 

Ornamental Varieties. The Double Flowering Sloe is 
a large shrub, of great beauty, when in flower. The Cherry 
plum is pretty in flower as well as in fruit. 



220 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 







•« 








3 = 


§" 


3 = 


19 


5 
5 




2 


1 






4 


2 




5 




15 


1 




12 


H 


3 


6 






16 


5 

5 to 6 


2 




4 to 5 


8 to 10 




2 to 3 




1 


1 


5 to 6 


9 


, 1 






2 


2 


10 


1 


1 


5 


1 


8 to 10 


8 


1 

5 to 6 






2 


2 


3 


1 




13 


1 

6 






3 


8 to 10 


18 


1 




11 


1 






2 


1 




5 


1 




G 


1 




2 






2 to 3 






7 






1 


1 


4 


1 


1 


17 


1 
1 




7 


1 to 2 


1 


14 


2 


1 



TABLE OF PLUMS, 

In order of ripening. (Page 11.) 

Early Genesee, Last of July. 

White Primordian, una 

Cherry, July 25 to Aug. 5 

Peach Aug. 1 to " 20 

Royal de Tours, " 10 " " 25 

Morocco " 10 " " " 

Hudson Gage, " " " " " 

Yellow Gage, " " " " " 

Imperial Ottoman, . . . . " 12 " " " 

M'Laughlin, " " " " 30 

Drapd'Or " 15 " " « 

Royal Hative, " 20 " Sept. 5 

Italian Damask, " " " *.' " 

Duane's Purple, " 25 " " 10 

Washington, " " " " " 

Cruger's Scarlet, " " " " " 

Green Gage, " " " '« " 

Washington Seedling, . . " " " " " 

Lawrence's Favorite, ..." " " " " 

Denniston's Superb, ..." " " " " 

Ida Green Gage, " " " " " 

Red Gage, " " " " 15 

Purple Gage, -. " " " " " 

Imperial Gage " 27 " " " 

Schenectady Catharine, Sept. I •* f* " 

Bleecker'sGage " " " " u 

Orange " " " " u 

Smith's Orleans, " " " " 20 

Jefferson " " " " " 

Hiding's Superb, . . . . " " M " « 

Nectarine " " " " " 

Columbia, " " ** " " 

Red Diaper, " •».««« » 

Purple Favorite, " " " '" " 

Purple Egg, " " " " " 

Diamond, " " " " 25 

Lombard, " 5 " " " 

Royale " " " " " 

Bingham, " " " " " 

Corse's Nota Bene, . . . . " 10 " " " 

Sharp's Emperor, . . . . " 15 " " 30 

Domine Dull, " " " " " 

Semiana . " " " Oct, 5 

Autumn Gage " 20 " " " 

Corse's»A.dmiral, " " ** " " 

Manning's Long Bl. Pr., Sept. 15 and Oct. 

St. Catharine " 25 to Oct. 10 

Coe's Golden Drop, ..." " " " 15 
Bine //wperatrice, .... Oct. 

Coe's Late Red, " and into Nov. 

Frost Gage " 15 " " " 

Ickworth's Imperatrice, " and " 



PLUMS. 221 

Early Genesee, M'Laughlin, Ida Green Gage, Schenectady 
Catharine, are new, and of high pretensions ; but little known, 
and some others are not well tested. Coe's Golden Drop is fine, 
further South. Coe's Late Red, and Ickworth's Imperatrice, are 
adapted to a warmer climate. For the North, select Early Gen- 
esee, Peach, Imperial Ottoman, M'Laughlin, Royal Hative, Green 
Gage, Red Gage, Smith's Orleans, Lombard, Corse's Nota Bene, 
Autumn Gage, and Blue Imperatrice for cooking. 

We can readily select a dozen excellent kinds for market, but it 
is difficult to say which one is the best of all. 

Ernst says, that owing to the destructive attacks of the curcu- 
lio, but few plums are ever matured there. 

Kirtland and Elliott recommend as the best twelve va- 
rieties — 

For Market. Morocco, Drap d'Or, Imperial Ottoman, Impe- 
rial Gage, Flushing Gage, Yellow Gage, Duane's Purple, Smith's 
Orleans, Washington, Elfrey, Yellow Egg, Coe's Golden Drop. 

For the Garden. Morocco, Drap d'Or, Imperial Ottoman, Impe- 
rial Gage, Purple Favorite, Washington, Red Diaper, Green Gage. 
As Jefferson, Lawrence's Favorite, and many others, have not 
been fully tested, we cannot give an opinion as to their merits. 

The Pomological Convention at Buffalo recommend, 
as first-rate, Purple Favorite, Red Gage, Washington, Green 
Gage, Imperial Gage, Jefferson, Bleecker's Gage, Red Diaper, 
Coe's Golden Drop. 

The National Convention of Fruit Growers recom- 
mend, as first-rate, Jefferson, Green Gage, Washington, Purple 
Favorite, Purple Gage, Bleecker's Gage, Coe's Golden Drop, 
Frost Gage. For Particular Locations, Imperial Gage. 

Barry recommends Royal Hative, Green Gage, Imperial Gage, 
Washington, Jefferson, Lawrence's Favorite, Columbia, Huling's 
Superb, Duane's Purple, Coe's Golden Drop. Common late Dam- 
son for preserves. 

Plums for the North. Goodale recommends for the best 
3, Jefferson, Prince's Imperial Gage, Purple Gage ; for the best 
6, add Washington, Red Diaper, Coe's Golden Drop ; for the best 
12, add Green Gage, Yellow Gage, Lombard, M'Laughlin, Red 
Gage, Brevoort's Purple. W. Goodale, South Orrington, Me., 
recommends for the best 3, Jefferson, Green Gage, and M'Laugh- 
lin ; for the best 6, add Washington, Imperial Gage, and Purple 
Gage ; for the best 12, add Lombard, Bleeker's Gage, Smith's 
Orleans, Red Gage, Imperial Ottoman, and Magnum Bonum, for 
preserves. Pinneo recommends for the best 3, Early Orleans, 
Prince's Imperial Gage, Purple Gage ; for the best 6, (or 8,) add 
Duane's Purple, Blue Dwarf Gage, Green Gage, Lombard, Black 
Damson. For the best 12, add Royal Hative, Washington, 
Smith's Orleans, Columbia, Jefferson, Orange. We copy this 
list for the North, from the Horticulturist. 
19* 



222 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




THE COMMON CHERRY, (Cerasus vulgaris.) 

The Cherry commonly cultivated in this 
country, originated in Asia. It is of great 
diversity of form, size, age, and habit ; 
but usually of moderate size, though gen- 
erally of a rapid growth. Of course, it is 
mostly rather short-lived, yet a few attain 
a large size and great age. It varies from 
a high, upright, to a low, spreading, and 
even weeping form. Some varieties are 
very ornamental, as well as useful. Maz- 
zards, which are natural or seedling trees, are generally the 
largest and most durable ; but usually of poorer fruit. 

Uses. The Cherry is generally a very juicy, sweet, deli- 
cious fruit, highly valuable from its early appearance in the 
hot season. Most kinds are admirably adapted to the des- 
sert, and are very cooling and refreshing when fresh from 
the tree. Some varieties are acid, and are used in tarts 
and pies ; and various kinds are used for preserves, mar- 
malade, jellies, conserves, and as condiments in many dish- 
es. Some are dried and preserved. The wild Black cherry, 
and other similar varieties, are used in the preparation of 
liquors, particularly in those for medicinal purposes. Their 
astringent quality renders them a valuable tonic, and as a 
cordial, or syrup, they are excellent for the dysentery, cholera, 
and jaundice. It is also a valuable stomachic. A cold in- 
fusion of the bark is good for bilious affections. This 
variety is excellent for shade, combining utility and ornament. 
We have noticed one tree, of superior vigor, and large fruit, 
that was 50 feet high and 20 inches diameter at 18 years 
old, yielding $10 worth of fruit annually, and as beautiful 
as an elm or other ornamental tree. 

Soil and Location. The Cherry will do well on various 
soils, from moist to dry ; but the best soil is a deep, mel- 
low loam, of medium moisture, or rather dry. A soil 
where Indian corn is not very liable to suffer from drought, 
or wet, is best for the cherry. It bears more moisture than 
the peach, or grape, and requires less than the apple, pear, 
or currant. 

The cherry is rather delicate. Many of our finest kinds 
do not succeed far north of this region, and they fail, also, 



THE CHERRY. 223 

in the Southern States. They do best in elevated, tolerably 
cool locations, as great heat is injurious. The rapid growth 
of the cherry renders it liable to injury, as the young wood 
is tender, and the bursting of vessels, from the extremes of 
heat and cold, in low, warm, locations, causes the gum to 
ooze out, which is very injurious, or destructive. 

Propagation. A few good kinds, true to the parent, are 
raised from the seed. But the most valuable varieties usu- 
ally have no meat in the stone. We have planted quarts 
of stones from nearly all the best varieties, and got only two 
or three trees. Such will generally be new varieties, possibly 
superior, but generally inferior, tending to their original 
wildness. From a quart of Warren's Transparent, a supe- 
rior, though small cherry, we have 100 fine young trees, 
which we think, from their appearance, will be true. The 
valuable varieties are propagated by budding and graft- 
ing. 

To obtain stocks, take the natural or common Mazzard 
cherry, which has thin flesh and plump seed, full of 
meat, well ripened, and let them remain a few days till the 
flesh will wash off, and leave the stones clean. Then plant. 
But we prefer putting the stones in loam, and in a box 
open at top, and with cracks in the bottom to let water 
through. Put them in the earth, even with the surface, in 
the shade of a building, tree, or fence, and sow late in fall, 
or early in spring ; or keep in the cellar, as recommended 
for plum-stones. Sow in a deep, rich, well pulverized soil, 
tolerably dry, in drills from 1 to 3 feet apart : cultivate well, 
and the trees will be large enough to set out in the nursery 
the next spring, and bud in Aug., and in two more years 
furnish a good sized standard tree. The first fall lay them 
in by the heels, or if they stand out they are seldom injured, 
and transplant into nursery rows early, as they start soon. 
Let the rows be 4 feet apart and the trees 1. Better to cut 
the trees down half way, cutting just above a shoot, as 
they will grow far better. 

In a forward, wet season, that is becoming dry the latter 
part of summer, it may be best to bud the very last of July, 
or first week in Aug. Again, it may be warm and wet till 
into Sept., and early budding may fail, and late budding, 
even the first week of Sept., may be successful. 

As the birch-like bark of the cherry is apt to curl and 
open at the bud, the bands, when becoming tight, should 
be loosened and re tied. 



224 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

In grafting the cherry, it is best to put moss around the 
stock, and tie paper or matting over it, lest the sun start the 
cement and cause the bark to curl. 

"We have seen our common cherries growing finely in 
the little wild Red or Pigeon cherry. They will not flour- 
ish in the Black, or Choke cherry ; and probably in none 
that bear fruit in strings, as they are of a different species. 

Planting, Culture, Pruning, &c. As trees vary mate- 
rially in their growth, some requiring a distance of 30 feet, 
others not more than 12 or 15, we prefer planting tolerably 
near, say a rod, (160 to the acre,) or 21 feet, (100 to the 
acre,) for the same reasons as recommended on page 150. 

Keep the land well cultivated, but not rich, as the cherry 
is a rapid grower, and a great growth produces tender 
wood, so that freezing and thawing in winter are destructive. 
As a remedy, cultivate hardy kinds, and let the land be 
only moderately fertile, inducing constant and regular 
growth. Prune but little at the trunk, excepting to re- 
move decaying branches, as the gum will ooze out at the 
wounds. But prune at the end of the branches, as with 
the plum and peach. The cherry produces its fruit on wood 
two or more years old. 

Cherries occasionally blast, from heat, even when quite 
small, owing, mostly, to tenderness from rapid growth ; and 
the foreign varieties are injured by cold in the North. "We 
think our native kinds, which are excellent, will bear exten- 
sion further north than has been the case with foreign vari- 
eties. 

Tan for Manure. Messrs. A. D. Williams & Son, Rox- 
bmy, Ms., most skilful in cultivating fruit, as well as in 
farming and gardening, invigorate their old and decaying 
cherry trees, and improve the young, by placing around 
each large tree a small horse-load of spent tan, fresh from 
the tannery, every 3 or 4 years. When it is laid around a 
tree, the fibrous roots penetrate it in every direction, showing 
that the effect is not merely mechanical, iike that of litter, in 
retaining moisture. The incident of a fine, healthy growth 
of cherry trees, where some tan was ihrown, led to this 
successful practice. Although we have seen the favorable 
effects of this application, and have the testimony of so 
skilful cultivators in its favor, we advise its trial in a small 
way only, at first, as fresh tan is usually destructive to veg- 
etation. 



THE CHERRY. 225 

Cherries in the South. Cherries do not succeed at the 
South — the sun is too hot ; plant in cool situations, on 
northern exposures, on the back-side of buildings, or trees 
that will shade them in the heat of the day. Bud or graft 
on native, hardy trees. Shield the trunk and large branch- 
es from the sun, by straw, boards, mats, Ace. Try various 
kinds from the North, or where they nourish, and select the 
hardiest. They fail at Mobile. 

Cherries in the West. The cherry often fails in the 
fertile regions of the West, owing, probably, to a too warm 
climate, to a soil so rich in vegetable mould, that it produces 
a too luxuriant growth, and to a want of sufficient gravel, 
sand, and other elements in the soil. Mr. Ernst, of Cin- 
cinnati, says to us on this subject, "Our climate is ill 
adapted to the growth and health of the cherry. The Early 
Richmond is the only sort, above the common Morello, 
that flourishes and fruits abundantly in all situations and 
soils. Here and there a tree of the finer sorts seems to 
do well. This is owing, doubtless, to some peculiar protec- 
tion, and perhaps to nourishment in the soil not yet well 
understood.*' 

Insects. The curculio that stings the plum, sometimes 
punctures the cherry, also. The caterpillar, that is so de- 
structive to the apple tree, is equally injurious to the cherry. 
The canker-worm occasionally attacks it. But one of the 
most destructive insects that infest the cher- 
ry is the slug. The slug-fly, that lays the eggs, 
is about ^ of an inch long, the male smaller, 
the body glossy black. They generally ap- 

Ch r si iT P ear tne l atter P art °f May, or first of June, 
y ~' s ' and soon lay their eggs, which are placed in 
little semi-circular incisions in the leaf, and usually on the 
under side. The slugs appear from the first of June to 
the latter part of July. They are first white, but soon cov- 
ered with a sticky coat. They are about half an inch long. 
They will soon destroy the foliage, the fruit fails, the tree is 
checked, and finally fails, if infested annually. The slugs 
come to their growth in 26 days, bury 1 to 4 inches in the 
ground, form cocoons in the earth, change to chrysalides, 
and in 16 days from their descent, they rise and lay eggs 
for a second brood, which do not complete their transfor- 
mations until the next spring. 

Remedy. Dust the foliage, thoroughly, with dry wood- 



226 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

ashes, or fresh slacked lime, when the dew is on. These 
adhere to the slimy slugs, and are sure. 

The black aphis appears early in summer, and by strict at- 
tention in killing all, with the fingers, on their first appearance, 
a numerous and destructive host may be prevented. Per- 
haps whale-oil soap, or strong soap-suds and tobacco-water, 
may kill them ; but the fingers are sure. 

Classification. Some authors make four classes, divid- 
ing the heart-shaped, or nearly heart-shaped, sweet cherries, 
into Bigarreaus, of firm flesh, and Hearts, of tender flesh • 
and the round, or flattish acid cherries, into Dukes, of sub- 
acid quality, and Morellos, of acid quality. These distinc- 
tions are too nice for common observers, and nature ac- 
knowledges no such lines of demarkation, as there are 
almost imperceptible gradations from the texture of the 
tenderest Heart to the firmest Bigarreau ; and from the 
mildest Duke to the most acid Morello. 

We make only two classes, in which the distinctions are 
more natural and easy ; yet, in some cases, a variety seems 
to belong to one class by its tree, and to another by its 
fruit. In new varieties, produced by a mixture of differ- 
ent classes, the characteristics of various kinds, both in tree 
and fruit, become blended, so as to belong, exclusively, to 
no class, but partially to several ; so each variety must be 
described according to its own peculiarities. 

Class 1. Hearts and Bigarreaus. Rapid and lofty grow- 
ers, with large and pendent leaves, and sweet, heart-shaped, 
or nearly heart-shaped, fruit. 

Class 2. Dukes and Morellos. Slow growers, forming 
low, spreading trees; dark-colored shoots ; dark green, nar- 
row foliage ; and round, tender, and acid, or sub-acid fruit. 

Varieties are now so numerous, that we have this deli- 
cious fruit, of excellent quality, for the space of two months, 
from the 1st or 2d week in June, (in N. England,) according 
to the season, to the same time in Aug., and some cooking 
varieties continue much later. Nearly all our excellent 
kinds were of foreign origin a few years since, but now we 
have almost a complete assortment of natives, that rank 
among the highest. Nothing excels the Honey Heart, 
Sumner's Honey, Coe's Transparent, Downer's Late, Sweet 
Montmorency, Manning's Late Black, and some of Kirt- 
land's Seedlings. 

From hundreds of seedlings, which he raised from the 



THE CHERRY. 



227 



: 



best varieties, Prof. Kirtland selected seven highly valuable 
kinds, which he placed at the disposition of Mr. F. R. 
Elliot, who figured and described them in the Horticulturist, 
from which we copy, adding other important mat- 
ter direct from him. To these we add Kirt- 
land. We have recently obtained them, and find 
them very promising in the nursery. 

1. Early Purple Guigne. Rather small ; pur- 
ple ; tender, juicy, sweet, with a pleasant, mild 
flavor. June 5 to 20. Recently imported ; prom- 
ising. Class 1. 

2. May Duke, Early Duke. Medial; obtuse 
heart-shaped ; very dark red ; flesh tender, melt- 
ing, juicy, slightly acid, but at full ma- > ^— > V J|X*N V 
turity rich and excellent. 15th to last / yJr \ 
of June. Answers to cook early, and is 
long in use. A week earlier than Black | 
Tartarian. Tree of moderate growth, 
large, spreading, a great bearer. One V / 
of the best early cherries, suited to vari- X ^ ^ ^s 
ous climates and soils. It endures the 
climate of the North as far as Maine. I 
Fruit middling hardy. In this region 
are large trees 40 or 50 years old. For- 
eign. Class 2. (Outline 2.) 

3. Bigarreau de Mai, Baumanns May. 
Small ; oval ; dark-red ; stem middling ; 
tender, juicy, tolerably sweet and good. 
June 5 to 20. A great bearer. Earliest 
of cherries, and as it ripens alone the 
birds eat them. Foreign. Class 1. 

4. The Doctor. Rather small ; round- 
ish heart-shaped, distinct suture ; bright- 
yellow and red, beautifully blended 
and mottled ; stalk medial ; flesh 
white, tender, juicy, with a sweet 
and delightful flavor. Second week 
in June. Moderate growth, spread- 
ing, very productive. Good for 
the private garden. Class 1. Kirt- 
land. 

5. Rockport Bigarreau. Very 
large ; roundish, heart-shaped j 





228 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 





beautiful clear deep-red, on amber ground ; flesh 
yellowish, firm, juicy, with a sweet, rich flavor. 
Ripens from 20 to last of June. Strong, upright 
growth. As it is large, handsome, and excel- 
lent, it is highly valuable both 'for the market 
and private garden. Class 1. Kirtland. 

6. Ohio Beauty. Very large ; flattish-oval, 
heart-shaped ; dark-red on pale-red ground, 
somewhat marbled ; stalk long, rather stout, in 
a deep, open cavity ; flesh white, very tender, 
delicate, juicy, with a fine flavor. Mid- 
dle to 20 June. Beautiful and excel- 
lent. Class 1. Kirtland. 

7. Coe's Transparent. Medial; 
round; skin thin, pale-amber and 
red ; stalk rather short, in a moderate 
depression ; tender, melting, delicate, 
of a sweet, fine flavor. June 20 to 
July 10. Origin, garden of Mr. Cur- 
tis Coe, Middletown, Ct. The tree of vigorous, upright 
growth, and productive. Like many others, n 
rather liable to rot in wet weather. Class 1. / 

8. Early White Heart. Medial; heart- J 
shaped ; whitish-yellow, red in the san ; stalk II 
long and slim ; flesh rather tender, melting, jj 
juicy, sweet, and very pleasant. Ripe 12 to the 
last of June. Tree very hardy, vigorous, a good 
bearer. Class 1. 

9. Sumner's Honey. Medial ; roundish, 
heart-shaped ; amber, half covered and marbled 
with pale red, very delicate and beautiful ; stem 
medial ; flesh a little firm, tender, with a rich, 
sweet, delicious flavor. Ripe from the 20th June 
to. 4th July. About half way between *■ — vJL^ "\ 
May Duke and Black Tartarean. Hardy f \ 
in tree and fruit, a vigorous grower, / \ 
and good bearer. Origin, by Gen. 
Clement Sumner, Dorchester, Ms. Very 
promising. Class 1. 

10. Knight's Early Black. Large 
obtuse heart-shaped ; purplish-black ; stalk short, thick.; 
flesh deep-purple, firm, juicy, rich, and sweet. Tree spread- 
ing. In size, color, and flavor, it nearly resembles the 






kl) 



THE CHERRY. 



229 




Black. Tartarean, but is a little earlier. Class 
1. 

11. Bowyer's Early Heart. Medial ; heart- 
shaped; pale-yelkrw and red; tender, juicy, pleas- 
ant, sweet. Middle of June. Foreign. Class 1. 

12. Davenport, Davenport's Early. The fruit 
nearly like the Black Tartarean, but rather 
more obtuse at the apex, more watery, ripens a 
few days earlier ; the tree is lower and more 
spreading ; the leaves larger ; the outer bark 
resembles birch. Downing, and others, 
Mho say the Davenport resembles the 
Black Heart, must have another kind in 
view, for we have searched it up in the 
Davenport family, in Dorchester, the' 
place of its origin. Class 1. 

13. Black Tartarean, Double Heart, 
formerly, in N. England. Very large; 
heart-shaped; skin glossy, purplish- 
black ; flesh purple, half tender, juicy, with a rich, pleasant 
flavor. Stone small. Ripens, generally, from 
June 23 to July 4th. A very vigorous, upright 
grower, and great bearer. Leaves large. Rath- 
er tender for the cold region. The trees oc- 
casionally crack, the gum oozes out, and they 
decline. The fruit middling hardy. Very sal- 
able from its large size. Origin, Russia. Class 1. 

14. Elton. Very large ; acute heart-shaped ; 
skin thin, pale-yellow, mottled with bright red 
in the sun ; stem long and slender ; flesh half 
tender, juicy, rich, luscious, of the highest qual- 
ity. Latter part of June. Tree vigorous, but 
moderate bearer. Foreign. Some 
say this is identical with Flesh-colored 
Bigarreau ; but though similar in shape, 
it is of a lighter color, and finer qual- 
ity. Mr. Haggerston, a skilful horticul- 
turist, particularly in foreign fruits, 
says they are distinct. Class 1. 

15. Belle de Choisey. Medial size t 
roundish ; pale-amber, mottled with 
yellowish-red in the sun ; transparent ; 
stalk short ; flesh amber, very tender, melting, with a sweet. 

20 




230 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



delicious flavor. 20 to last of June. A mod- 
erate grower and bearer. Adapted to various 
soils and climates. Foreign. Class 2 in tree, 
1 in quality of fruit. 

16. White Bigarreau, Ozheart of Core, 
White Oxheart of the Middle States. Very- 
large ; heart-shaped ; yellowish-white, marbled 
with red ; flesh rather tender, of a fine, luscious 
flavor. Apt to crack in wet weather. Last 
week in June. Very common in the Boston 
market, under various names. It resembles 
the Bigarreau, but is less blunt, more tender 
flesh, has narrow, waved leaves, and ripens 
earlier. Not worth cultivating. The 
tree rather tender. Class 1 . 

17. Downton. Large ; roundish ; 
obtuse heart-shaped ; pale cream color, 
stained and marbled with red ; semi- 
transparent ; stalk rather long, slen- 
der, in a large cavity; flesh yellow- 
ish, tend*er, slightly clingstone, with a 
rich and very delicious flavor. Lat- 
ter part of June, with Black Tartarean. 
Maine. Class 1. 

18. American Heart. Rather large ; 
heart-shaped ; light amber, nearly covered 
with light red ; stem long and slender, in 
a shallow cavity ; flesh tolerably tender, 
very juicy, sweet and excellent flavor. 
June 20 or 25 to July. Vigorous and pro- 
ductive, bearing in clusters. But little 
cultivated in N. England. Valuable for 
the market. Class 1. 

19. Cleveland Bigarreau. Ex- 
tremely large ; roundish, heart- 
shaped, with a broad, deep suture ; 
clear, bright, delicate red, on amber- 
yellow ground ; stalk rather short, 
middling stout, curved; flesh pale 
yellowish-white, firm, juicy, of a 
sweet, rich flavor. Ripens with Black 
Tartarean. It resembles the Bigar- 
reau in tree and fruit, but is a greater 





Hardy, even in 




THE CHERRY. 



231 




ering/ \ 

1, in- ] 

t and 91 

nderA / 

od ^ ^ 



bearer, and (from 4 years' trial) not liable to 
rot. Class 1. Kirtland. 

20. Kentish, Early Richmond and Virginia of the 
Americans, Common Bed and Pie Cherry of the 
English, Montmorency of the French. Medial ; 
round ; bright, darkish-red ; flesh melting, juicy, 
with a sprightly, rich, acid flavor. Mostly for 
cooking ; but when very ripe, good for the des- 
sert. Latter part of June into July. Tree ex- 
tremely hardy in various climates, hot or cold, 
vigorous and productive. Class 2. 

21. Richardson. Very large ; heart- f XJr^V 
shaped, but rather short, and tapering 
much to the point ; very dark -red, 
dining to black ; stem rather short 
slender. Flesh deep-red, half tender, 
juicy, saccharine, rich, luscious flavor. 
Last of June and first of July, 
keeps well on or off the tree. Good 
grower and bearer, rather upright, hardy in tree and fruit. 
Original tree, as far as known, in the 
garden of J. R. Richardson, Esq., Boston. 
Class 1. 

22. Kirtland's Mary. Very large ; 
roundish, heart-shaped ; light and dark-red, 
marbled, on a yellow ground ; stalk moder- 
ate size ; flesh light-yellow, half tender, rich, 
juicy, with a sweet, high flavor. Ripens in 
medial season. Of excellent quality. Class 
1. Kirtland. 

23. Downing's Red Cheek. Tolerably 
large ; obtuse, heart-shaped ; white, with 
rich dark-crimson in the sun ; flesh yellow- 
ish, half tender, of a sweet, luscious flavor. 
Few days before Bigarreau. Downing* s 
Fruits. Class 1. 

24. Blaok Eagle. Tolerably large ; 
obtuse, heart-shaped ; purplish-black j 
stalk medial length, rather slender; 
flesh deep-purple, rather tender, with 
the richest and finest flavor. A stand- 
ard of excellence. Ripens the last 
of June, a few days later than the 




232 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




Black Tartarean. Hardy, and suitable for 
the North ; a good bearer, a good grower, 
rather spreading, forming a round, compact 
head. Leaves large. English origin. Class 
I. 

25. Elliott's Favorite. Rather small; pale 
amber-yellow, with a bright crimson-red 
cheek, marbled ; flesh pale amber, transpar- 
ent, tender, exceedingly delicate, juicy, and 
sweet, with a fine high flavor. Last of June 
to July 10. Very delicious. Fine for the 
private garden. Class 1. Kirtland. 

26. Black Heart. Large medial ; heart- 
shaped; glossy, dark, purplish-black; 
stalk tolerably long, slender ; flesh dark- 
purple, tender, juicy, with a sweet, rich 
flavor. June 25 to 5 or 10 of July. 
Hardy in tree, a vigorous grower, form- 
ing a large and durable tree. Suited to 
the North, even as far as Bangor, Me. 
Class 1. 

27. Holland Bigarreau. Very large ; rather 
acute heart-shaped; pale-yellow, mottled with 
red in the sun; stalk long, slender, in a deep 
cavity ; flesh rather firm, juicy, sweet and excel- 
lent. Leaves large, broad, light footstalks. 
First week in July. Tree vigorous and good 
bearer. Fruit beautiful. Class 1. 

28. Flesh-colored Bigarreau, Large, Heart- 
shaped Bigarreau of Manning. Very large ; ob- 
long, rather acute heart-shaped ; yellowish flesh- 
color, marbled with bright red in the sun ; stalk 
moderate length, slim, in a narrow, deep cavity ; 
flesh nearly tender at full maturity, very juicy, 
sweet, pleasant flavor. A few days earli- 
er than Bigarreau, and more profitable 
for market, being less liable to rot; su- 
perior to Napoleon Bigarreau, as a bet- 
ter bearer. French origin. Class 1. 

29. Hyde's Seedling. Tolerably large ; 
heart-shaped; pale-yellow, mostly pale- 
red in the sun ; stem rather short ; flesh 
half firm, tender, very juicy, with a 
pleasant, sprightly flavor. Ripe first of 






THE CHERRY. 



233 



July, with Bigarreau. Tree hardy, very vig- 
orous, spreading, prodigious bearer. Fruit 
tolerably hardy. One of the most profitable. 
Originated, recently, by S. &c G. Hyde, New- 
ton. Class 1. 

30. Burr's Seedling. Large ; obtuse heart- 
shaped ; distinct suture ; skin thin, white pel- 
lucid in the shade, spotted with carmine dots, 
and brilliant red in the sun, marbling with 
darker red ; stalk long and slender, in a 
broad, shallow cavity ; flesh white, tender and 
juicy, with a smart, lively and delicate flavor. 
First to the 10th July. Growth remarkably 
stout and vigorous. W. R. 
Smith, Macedon, N. Y., in Horti- 
culturist. Raised by Zera Burr, 
Macedon. Class 1. 

31. Bigarreau, Yellow Span- 
ish, White Bigarreau of Man- 
ning and Kenrick, White Tar- 
tarean (incorrectly) by many fruit- 
growers in N. England. Very 
large ; obtuse heart-shaped ; 
much flattened at the base ; pale, 
whitish-yellow, with minute carmine dots, and 
marbling of bright red in the sun ; stalk moder- 
ate length, stout, in a wide depression ; flesh 
pale-yellow, quite firm, juicy, with a rich, 
sweet, delicious flavor. Last of June to 10th 
of July. Tree hardy, with vigorous growth ; 
a great bearer. Large, broad leaves. A fine 
market cherry in a good season, but with wet 
weather when it is ripening, it rots much. We 
have seen a tree that produced $15 worth one 
year, equally full the next, but not a bushel was 
fit for the market. Foreign. Class 1. 

32. Florence. Large ; obtuse 
heart-shaped ; amber-yellow, mar- 
bled with red, bright-red fruit in the 
sun ; stem moderate length, slender ; \ 
flesh yellowish, firm, juicy, sweet, 
and excellent. Hangs on long. June 
20 to July 20. Class 1. 

20* 





234 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




33. Apple, Gridhy. Medial ; roundish : black ; 
flesh purple, juicy, pleasant flavor. Rather up- 
right, rapid grower and great hearer. Other late 
kinds are better. Origin, Roxbury, Ms. 4 to 
12 July. Class 1. 

34. Carnation. Bright, shining, marbled-red ; 
round ; stalk short and stout ; flesh tender, "rich, 
sub-acid flavor. One of the best for cooking. 
Last of July. Tree low growing, good bearer. 
Class 1. 

35. Manning's Late Black Heart. Large 
medial ; roundish heart-shaped ; dark-red ; stem 
long, middle size ; flesh bright-red, half tender, 
rather juicy, spirited, with a pleasant, 
luscious flavor. Ripens 1 to 10 of July, 
with Honey Heart. We have noticed 
the original tree at Salem; it is hardy, 
very vigorous, large and beautiful, from 
its immense foliage, which screens the 
fruit from the birds. Great bearer, and 
the fruit pretty hardy. Class 1. 

36. Napoleon Bigarreau. Very large ; rather 
heart-shaped ; pale -yellow, inclining to amber, 
spotted with deep-red, and marbled with crimson 
in the sun ; stalk short, stout, in a narrow cavity ; 
flesh very firm, juicy, with an excellent flavor. 
The former part of July, with Downer's Late, 
and Honey Heart. The growth is luxuriant and 
beautiful. A moderate bearer, generally ; there 
are exceptions, Kirtland says, hardy and pro- 
ductive, but fruit slightly inclined to decay, and 
little deficient in richness. Class 1. 

37. Honey Heart, Rodger's Pale Red, Spar- 
hawk's, Honey. Medial ; flattish-roundish, heart- 
shaped ; skin thin, glossy, bright amber-red, mar- 
bled, blotched, and specked with pale-yel- 
low; stalk moderate length, slender ; flesh 
yellowish, very tender, melting, very 
juicy, with a pure, sweet, and most de- [ 
licious flavor. One of the very best. 
Stone large. 1 to 12 July, with the 
Downer. Tree hardy, vigorous, and 
productive. Doubtless a native. Capt. 




oblon? 




THE CHERRY. 



235 



S. Hyde, of Newton, found it in that town, and 
disseminated it a long time since. Class 1. 

38. Late Bigarreau. Large ; obtuse heart- 
shaped ; rich yellow ground, with red cheek, 
and sometimes nearly all red, occasionally 
blotched, or mottled ; stalk medial, in a deep, 
oval cavity ; flesh yellowish, firm, juicy, rich, 
with agreeable flavor; pit small. About the 
time of Downer. Class 1. Kirtland. 

39. Downer, Downer's Late. Large medial ; 
regularly roundish, slightly heart-shaped ; light- 
red, often mottled with yellow; stalk rather 
long and slender ; flesh very tender, 
extremely juicy, sweetish, with a very 
slight bitter, peculiar to some Mazzards, 
of a very luscious flavor. Fourth to 
the 12th of July. Tree remarkably 
hardy and vigorous, a great and sure 
bearer, and the fruit the hardiest of all 
against the rot, which often destroys 
great quantities of tender fruit. We 
have seen them ripening fine at the close of a 
fortnight of wet weather, when most cherries, 
and in some cases all others, rotted. Origi- 
nated by S. Downer, Esq., a veteran pomolo- 
gist, of Dorchester, in this vicinity. Class 1. 

40. Large Red Bigarreau. Very large ; 
long, heart-shaped, distinct suture ; yellowish, 
with red, dark-red in the sun ; stalk large, in a 
deep cavity ; flesh yellowish, reddish next, the 
stone, firm, of a rich, fine flavor. Second week 
in July. Tree vigorous. Class 1. 

41. American Amber, BloodgoooVs Honey. 
Medial ; roundish, inclining to heart-shaped ; 
slightly indented at the point ; skin thin 
glossy-amber, mottled with bright red ; 
stalk long, slender, in a slight cavity; 
flesh amber color, tender, sweet, very 
juicy, pleasant, but not high flavor. 
Rather late, July 5 to 15. Great bearer. 
Originated by Daniel Bloodgood, Flush- 
ing, N. Y. Class 1. 

42. Late Honey. Large medial ; 





236 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



heart-shaped; bright-red, specked and mottled 
with yellow ; stem 2 inches long, slender ; very 
tender, melting, juicy, of a sweet, lively flavor. 
Similar to Honey Heart in appearance ; one week 
later. Class 1. 

43. Lemercier. In size, form, color, qual- 
ity, and time, nearly the same as Late Duke. 
Messrs. Hovey have this fruit. Class 1. 

44. English Morello, Morello. Tolerably 
large ; roundish ; nearly black ; flesh reddish- 
purple, tender, juicy, of a pleasant sub-acid 
flavor. Last of July and first of Aug. Mod- J 
erate growth. Class 2. 

45. Late Duke. Large; obtuse 
heart-shaped ; dark-red ; flesh yel- 
lowish, tender, juicy, with spright- 
ly, rich, acid flavor. Excellent for 
cooking and for the dessert. Ri- 
pens latter part of July, and con- 
tinues 3 or 4 weeks. Vigorous and 
good bearer. Does well in light 
soils. Class 2. 

46. Elkhorn, Tradescant's Black Heart. Very £> 
large; heart-shaped; black; stem short, in a |7 
deep cavity ; flesh very firm, tough, of pleasant 1/ 
flavor, though not first-rate ; it is salable from // 
its large size and lateness. Middle of July, a // 
week after Honey Heart. Class 1. \j 

47. Rumsey's J^ate Morello. Large; round- j| 
ish, heart-shaped ; rich, lively, red ; very juicy 
and melting, but very acid. Last of Aug. to 
Oct. Lately originated by Dr. J. S. Rumsey. 
Fishkill Landing, N. Y. Class 2. I 

48. Plumstone Morello. Large ; 
roundish, and slightly heart-shaped ; 
deep-red , stalk moderate length, slender ; 
flesh reddish, tender, juicy, of a pleasant, 
acid flavor. One of the best for cooking. 
First of Aug. Vigorous and productive. 
Class 2. 

49. Wendell's Mottled Bigarreau. 
Large ; obtuse heart-shaped ; purplish-red and mottled ; 
stalk medial ; flesh firm, crisp, juicy, high flavored. Ripens 





THE CHERRY. 237 

with Downer. Origin, garden of Dr. H. Wendell, Albany, 
N. Y. New. Class 1. 

50. Hyde's Late Black. Medial ; obtuse heart-shaped , 
purplish-black; flesh half firm, melting, juicy, luscious. 
July 10 to 20. Resembles Black Eagle, but is later. By 
Messrs. Hyde, Newton, Ms. 

51. Black Bigarreau of Savoy. Large; heart-shaped; 
black ; flesh purple, very firm, rather rich and pleasant, but 
not juicy. Pit large. Keeps long, on or off the tree. July 
10 to 20. Foreign. Class 1. 

52. Belle Magnifique. Large ; round ; light-red, mot- 
tled with dark-red ; stalk rather long ; flesh juicy, rather 
acid. First rate for cooking and preserving, and well rip- 
ened pretty good for the dessert. Moderate grower, good 
bearer. Adapted to northern culture. Last of July. 
Class 2. 

53. Warren's Transparent. Small ; roundish, heart- 
shaped ; pale-yellow and red ; flesh very tender and deli- 
cious. The stone is seen through the fruit. Ripe July 15 
to 25. Small, but valuable for its lateness and fine quality. 
Vigorous and hardy. The pit full of meat. J. L. L. F. 
Warren, Brighton, Ms. Class 1. 

54. Sweet Montmorency, Allen's Sweet Montmorency. 
Rather small ; roundish ; bright-red, partially mottled ; very 
sweet and luscious. Last week in July and first in Aug. 
Keeps well, on or off the tree. Good grower and bearer. 
Raised by J. F. Allen Esq., Salem, Ms. Class 1. 

55. Late Kentish, Pie Cherry. Medial ; roundish ; 
deep-red ; very tender, juicy, and quite acid, even in perfec- 
tion. Very hardy, and. the seeds produce the same. First 
of Aug. Native. Class 2. 

Ornamental Varieties. Large Double Flowering is a 
beautiful tree, with a profusion of large flowers, resembling 
white roses. It bears no fruit, but the tree is large and 
lofty. Dwarf Double Flowering has similar flowers, but 
not so beautiful ; it is only a shrub. Chinese Double Flow- 
ering is dwarfish; has beautiful, white, double flowers, 
tinged with pink. Wild Black, under high culture, forms a 
beautiful, vigorous tree, and the fruit is valuable for medicine. 
Weeping or Allsaints, is small, slender, and weeping ; with 
fine, delicate leaves, and small, acid fruit. 



238 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



, 


« 


_i 


.j. • 










a "£ 


£ a) 
o 2 


« >. 


"3 £ 




TABLE OF CHE 


S* 


a 3 


OT 


1 = 




In order of ripening. 


(See 
rune 5 


page 11.) 










Bigarreau de Mai, . . 


to 20 






, 






Early Purple Guigne 


it a 


(( (C 




3 


1 








" 10 


" 25 






5 


6 to 


7 


Early White Heart, 


u (i 


" 30 


3 




5 to 6 


5 to 


6 


May Duke, .... 


" 15 


<( <( 


12 










Ohio Beauty, . . . 
Knight's Early Black 


u 1 1 


(( it 
n cc 






3 






Davenport, .... 


11 20 


" Julyl 


8 


2 








Rockport Bigarreau, 


<( ii 


K (< 


20 










American Heart, . 


<( <( 


<( (< 






1 






Belle de Choisy, . 


(< ii 


(< (( 


9 


5 


1 






Coe's Transparent, 


" "into July 




8 


1 


2 to 


3 


Sumner's Honey, . 


(( c( 


(< «( 


2 


14 


2 


5 to 


6 


Black Tartarean, . 


" 23 


c< it 4 


17 


13 


1 


4 to 


5 


Elton, 

Downton, . • . . 


(C II 

II (( 


(( II (C 

it << ii 


4 










Cleveland Bigarre. 


II (( 
II (( 


ii ii ii 

N (( 11 


13 


12 


1 


2 to 


3 


Richardson, . . . 


11 25 


to July 8 




15 


1 






Kirtland's Mary, . 


(( <( 


ii K it 


6 


4 


1 


2 to 


3 


Black Eagle, . . . 


ii (( 


(< (< cc 


18 




3 


3 to 


5 


Flesh-colored Bigar. 


(< c< 


it (< a 






2 to 3 


5 




Black Heart, . . . 


" 27 


"July 8 








10 




Bigarreau, .... 
Elliott's Favorite, . 
Holland Bigarreau, 


ii <( 
(c it 
<( ii 


ii (i 10 

ii it ii 


15 






5 




Hyde's Seedling, . 
Florence, .... 


u ii 

ii (t 


<( ii (i 
is n m 








3 




Burr's Seedling, . 


J'lyl 


to J'ly 12 


5 


9 


2 


4 




Manning's L. Black, 


<< u 


K ii t« 








2 to 


3 


Napoleon Bigar. . 


ii (< 


ii it i< 


10 


1 


1 


3 




Honey Heart, . . 


11 u 


u ii ii 


1 


6 


1* 


1 






(( H 


ii i« it 


16 










Late Bigarreau, . . 
American Amber, . 


(( (C 

" 5 


ii ii 15 


19 




3 






Late Honey, . . . 
Wendell's Motl'd Big 


(< it 
" 10 


it it cc 
" « 20 




10 


1 


2 to 


3 


Hyde's Late Black, 


K a 


" " 25 






4 


5 to 


6 




ci (( 


(< » (t 






1 






Warren's Transpar't, 


15 " 


U U (( 


7 




5 to 6 






Late Duke, .... 


" 20 


Aug. 10 


14 


7 


li 






Sweet Montmorency, 


« 25 


« « 5 


11 


11 








Belle Magnifique, . 


(( « 


(1 t( c< 


1 






2 to 


3 


Plumstone Morello, 


(i <( 


it - <( ii 



CHERRIES. 239 

Doctor, Ohio Beauty, Rockport Bigarreau, Coe's Transparent, 
Sumner's Honey, Cleveland Bigarreau, Richardson, Kirtland's 
Many, Late "Bigarreau, Wendell's Mottled Bigarreau, Hyde's 
Late Black, and other kinds, are new and very promising, but 
not generally tested. The fruit is fine, and they are native hardy 
varieties that bid fair to rank high. 

Kirtland and Elliott (pages 227, 8) recommend, 

For the Private Garden. 



1. Doctor. 

2. Rockport Bigarreau. 

3. Kirtland's Mary. 

4. Knight's Early Black. 
6. Elton. 

6. Holland Bigarreau. 

7. Black Eagle. 
The best No. 2. Best three, 2, 4, 6. Best six, add 3, 10, 11. 



8. Belle de Choisy. 

9. Elliott's Favorite. 

10. Delicate, (new t — not de- 
scribed.) 

11. Late Bigarreau. 

12. Downer's Late Red. 



For Market. 



1. No. 29, Kirtland's Seedlings 

2. Rockport Bigarreau. 

3. Cleveland Bigarreau. 

4. American Heart. 

5. Ohio Beauty. 

6. English Amber. 

7. Late Bigarreau. 



8. Holland Bigarreau. 

9. Downer's Late Red (Down- 

er.) 

10. Black Tartarean. 

11. Early Richmond (Kentish.) 

12. Napoleon, (Napoleon Big- 
arreau, Ed.) 



4 choice kinds at different periods, 1, 3, 4, 7. 

Downing, in his Horticulturist, 1846, recommended the 12 fol- 
lowing Choice Hardy Cherries, for the Middle States. Black 
Tartarean, Black Eagle, Early White Heart, Downton, Downer's 
Late, Manning's Mottled, Flesh-Colored Bigarreau, Elton, 
Belle de Choisy, May Duke, Kentish, Knight's Early Black. 

The National Convention of Fruit Growers recom- 
mend as first rate, May Duke, Black Tartarean, Black Eagle, Big- 
arreau, Knight's Early Black. Downer, Elton, Downton. 

Barry recommends for a succession from June to August, 
May Bigarreau, or Beauman's May, Knight's Early Black, 
May Duke, Black Tartarean, Elton, Napoleon Bigarreau, Belle 
de Choisy, Sparhawk's Honey Bigarreau or Yellow Spanish, 
Black Eagle, Downer's Late, Carnation, Belle Magnifique, Large 
English Morello. The three last are fine late tart cherries, for 
cooking, and with the May Duke and Belle de Choisy are of 
slower growth, and form small sized trees ; the others are all 
rapid growers, and form handsome pyramidal shaped trees. 

Cherries for the North. Goodale says that the only 
cherries which prove hardy and good with him, are the Down- 
ton, Downer, Elton, Black Eagle and May Duke. Pinneo says 
that the Kentish is hardy, Black Heart, Black Tartarean, Hyde's 
Seedling, Downer, and May Duke, do pretty well. 



240 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



THE GRAPE, (Vitis.) 

The Grape was one of the first fruits that claimed the 
attention of man, and now, where it receives due care, in a 
climate adapted to its culture, it ranks among the finest 
fruits. The grapes cultivated so extensively in Europe were 
originallyfrom Asia. In 1830, France produced 14,000,000,000 
pounds of grapes, which indicates a genial clime, though far 
from its native home. This fruit is admirably adapted to 
small premises. From very little land, and that used also 
for various other purposes, with trifling care, and that care a 
pleasure, a family may have a liberal supply of luscious 
grapes. Excepting in compact cities, there is scarcely a 
dwelling where this luxury may not be enjoyed fresh from 
the vine. 

Uses. The grape, like the melon, is cooling and refresh- 
ing in warm weather ; hence the importance of cultivating 
early kinds, especially in the North, for we do not relish re- 
frigerant fruits, 

" When November comes with looks of woe, 
And thin locks fleckered o'er with snow." 

This fruit is among the most delicious, and it has a very 
salutary effect on the system, being both nutritious and me- 
dicinal. It attenuates the blood, and gives it a free circula- 
tion, delighting the young and re novating "the old. Taken 
freely, it is diuretic and laxative. It has often proved effect- 
ual in severe cases of dysentery, even curing whole armies. 
In inflammatory complaints, it allays thirst and reduces heat. 
It is also useful in phthisical and pulmonary disorders. Dried 
grapes or raisins are used very extensively. They are good 
for the dessert and in various ways of cooking. The pure 
wine of the grape is, in some cases, highly valuable for its 
salutary and remedial effects ; but, like many other blessings, 
liable to be perverted. He that is whole needs not a phy- 
sician. 

The grape is naturally the wine-producing fruit, those 
that are well adapted to this purpose being alone sufficient. 
In Cincinnati and vicinity, 23,000 gallons of wine were made 
in 1845, mostly from the Catawba, and the vineyards were 
extending. Domestic wines are superior to imported, as al- 
cohol is added to the foreign to preserve them, and poisonous 
substances to correct their acidity. 



THE GRAPE. 241 

Soil and Location. The soil should be light, deep, rich, 
rather dry, with a good share of gravel or sand, and a dry 
sub-soil ; and for wine, a calcareous soil should be chosen, 
else lime should be freely added. The wine-dressers of Ohio 
are particular on this point. Any land naturally well adapt- 
ed to Indian corn, and put in good condition for a crop, will 
yield good grapes. Some varieties will grow where it is tol- 
erably wet, but generally the crop is surer and better on a 
dry soil. 

Most grapes adapted to the climate will nourish in almost 
any location, but hill-sides and moderate elevations are pref- 
erable. A warm, sheltered location, or southern exposure, 
is often desirable to bring a late variety to maturity. On 
low lands the extremes of heat and cold are greater, and 
may be injurious, but much depends on the kind. On the 
tops of mountains and high hills, storms and winds are un- 
favorable. In a hot climate, use a northern exposure for 
those kinds that flourish better further north. Longworfh 
prefers a northern exposure, not only for the advantages of 
exposition, but because the land is richer. If convenient, 
avoid a near exposure to the sea. On steep hill-sides, ter- 
races of stone or sods should be formed. 

Propagation. New varieties are produced by seed ; and 
valuable kinds are propagated by layers, cuttings, and by 
grafting. 

Seed. The greater the number of kinds cultivated to- 
gether, the more varieties they produce from seed. By cross- 
fertilization, (page 65,) a hybrid between any two varieties 
may be produced. A late grape may be improved by a cross 
with an early one, a small with a large, &c.,&c. Clean the 
seeds by washing, and plant in fall, or put in sand, as other 
seeds, and plant in spring, in a rich, mellow soil. In fall, the 
first year, heap the earth up around the tender vines, or take 
them up and bury in light soil, the same as trees are laid in 
by the heels, (page 49,) only cover all over. At one or two 
years old, set out as standards. 

Layers. This is the surest mode, and brings forward 
vines and fruit the soonest. We have had fine fruit, and a 
large growth of vine, the second year, from layers. Layers 
of old wood may be made in spring or early in June ; of 
new wood, in June or early in July. Good layers will be fit 
to set as standards after one season's growth ; those that are 
feeble, or were made late, and are not well rooted, may be 
21 




242 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

saved from winter as young seedlings, and set out to grow 
one year more in the nursery, or, with due care, planted out 
permanently. (Pages 31, 49.) 

Cuttings admit of rapid multiplication. They should be 
cut late in fall or early in winter, and buried in a light soil. 
In spring, cut off each end close to a bud, leaving the cutting 
about a foot long, and plant sloping, in 
deep, rich, moist soil, partially shaded, 
j m if convenient, with the top bud covered 
one half inch in soil, with a little stick 
by it that the place may be known, and 
the earth loosened over the bud in 10 or 
15 days. This is surer than to leave 
A Cutting planted, the end out to dry. In fall, cut down 
to 2 or 3 eyes, and bury up in earth, 
or lay in as seedlings. (Page 144.) They need 2 years' 
growth to be fit for setting as standards. Some native kinds 
are hard to start from cuttings. Propagate such by layers. 

Grafting. Some graft with success early in spring, when 
the vines bleed, or the bleeding may be partially stopped 
with cement. To prevent bleeding, and to allow r the sap to 
become thick, which is an aid to success, wait till the leaves 
are developed. Remove the earth around the vine, and saw 
it off 2 or 3 inches below the surface, insert the scion as in 
other cleft grafting. Apply cement, replace the earth, just 
covering the lower bud of the scion, and leaving bare the 
upper bud, two being sufficient. If the stock be very large, 
insert the scion into a gimlet hole, as a spile. If 
the stump be an inch in diameter, put in two scions. Scions 
well set in vigorous stocks, generally grow freely, and bear 
the next year. Some splicegraft above the ground. For 
scions use common cuttings, of the last year's growth, the 
wood of which was well ripened or firm in the fall. The 
soft wood at or near the top of the vine should be rejected. 
They may be kept as cuttings, or saved in the same manner 
as scions generally. Page 34. The surest and least trou- 
blesome way is to buiy them 6 to 10 inches deep, as soon 
as cut from the vines. 

Dr. Eastburn Sanborn, Andover, Ms., has various inge- 
nious and valuable modes of budding and grafting. For the 
grape, he cuts out a bud with a small portion of wood on the 
same side only, winch he makes into the form of a wedge, 
and inserts as in cleft grafting. 




THE GRAPE. 243 

Budding. Dr. S. buds the grape, by cutting a bud out of 
the scion, nearly an inch long, straight on the side opposite 
the bud, (a,) and cut off at each end, on the bud side, to an 
edge, (b, b.) The wood on the stock is raised by cutting up 

and down the vine, and 
the bud is nicely fitted, 
the raised wood (c , c) cov- 
ering the part where the 
bud-piece was shaved off. 
This is done in spring, 
after the vine has nearly 
leaved out, and in the summer.* 

Culture and Manure. After preparing the land by deep 
ploughing, and a well-manured crop that tends to the pulver- 
ization of the soil, subsoil, trench-plough, or trench with 
the spade, 20 inches deep, placing much of the surface soil 
at the bottom. Subsoiling is not so good as the other pro- 
cesses, as it only loosens the subsoil, without removing or 
mixing it much with the upper layer. 

After the vines are planted, the soil should be kept loose 
by frequent stirring, and all grass and weeds destroyed. At 
first, stir freely and deeply near the plants, but as the roots 
extend, be careful and not disturb them, but still stir lightly 
above them, and deep around them, making a fine bed in- 
viting their extension. Longworth ploughs in his vineyards, 
but soon discontinues ploughing as the roots become extend- 
ed. Mulching (page 50) is excellent, especially in hot, dry 
weather. It has doubled the crop, and prevented mildew. 
Common animal manures are good as a preparation of the 
land, or for young vines ; but for bearing vines, compost the 
animal manure, as the irregular and rapid growth, from sud- 
den decomposition of manure, injures the grape, producing 
blight, rot, &c. Ashes alone are a good manure. Cinders 
from the blacksmith's forge are excellent. Soap-suds are a 
good liquid manure ; so are sink water and urine, and better 
to mix all and let them ferment. Bone manure is one of the 
best for grapes. -Apply it moderately if it be fine, but liber- 
ally in whole bones or large pieces, as it will decompose 
slowly. The best manure is leaves and trimmings of vines, 
buried around the roots. The analysis will aid the cultivator. 

• NOTE. When Dr. S. gave us an account of these modes, his scions were very flour- 
ishing ; but in answer to recent inquiries, he says that some failed from the heat of 
■ummer. Therefore we present the subject for trial only, hoping 1 it will aid others in 
experiments. Some have succeeded by cutting ofi' buds with pieces cf vine 2 or 8 
inches long, inserting as above, and scarfing a little at the ends. 



244 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Wood. 


Bark. 


20.84 


1.77 


2.06 


0.27 


0.02 


0.40 


0.23 


trace. 


15.40 


5.04 


1.20 


5.04 


34.83 


32.22 


17.33 


39.32 


4.40 


0.80 


2.80 


14.00 




0.30 


2.20 


1.70 


101,31 


100,86 



Analysis of the Ash of the Wild Grape Vine. 



Potash 

Soda 

Chlorine 

Sulphuric acid 

Phosphate of lime . . . 
Phosphate of peroxide iron 

Carbonic acid 

Lime 

Magnesia 

Silex 

Soluble silicia 

Coal and organic matter . 



Planting in Vineyards and Gardens. Longworth, who 
has 70 acres, in vineyards, plants in rows, 6 feet apart, with 
the vines 3 or 4 feet apart in the row. Dr. Flagg, of Cin- 
cinnati, in an able treatise on the grape, recommends 5 or 6 
by 2\ or 3 feet. Plant good layers of one year, or cuttings 
of two years' growth, and they will generally bear some 
fruit the second year, and a good crop the third. In com- 
mon garden culture, vines are set near borders, and in other 
convenient places, and generally from 5 to 10 feet apart. 
The vineyards about Cincinnati generally yield about 150 
bushels to the acre, which make 400 gallons of wine. Some 
set the average yield of vines at 200 gallons. 

Cultivation under Glass. In cultivating foreign grapes, 
glass houses are indispensable, to prevent the effects of sud- 
den changes, by moderating the extremes of heat and cold, 
and producing an equilibrium similar to the equable temper- 
ature of Europe. Some foreign grapes require artificial 
heat, others ripen well in a cold house, that is a glass house 
without fire heat. Most foreign grapes may be raised in N. 
England, under glass, by solar heat. Yet artificial heat is 
used for forcing these and other kinds, in order to bring 
them forward at a time when there is a scarcity of fruit. 

Some natives are improved by cultivation under glass. 
By forwarding and retarding houses, which may be made by 
different apartments in the same building, fine grapes .may 
be had every month in the ) r ear. 



THE GRAPE. 



245 




Make a grape house about 2 feet high in front, (a,~) 15 to 

16 feet wide, and 12 feet 
high at the back, (b,) and 
any desired length. Make 
a border of sandy loam, 
trenched 2 feet deep, rich 
with compost, and other 
manures recommended 
for the grape. Let it ex- 
tend 6 or 8 feet inside, 
and 12 or 15 outside. If 
Grapery. vines are to be planted at 

the back wall, the border should extend the whole width of 
the house. If the location be moist, drain it, or elevate the 
border, so as to have a dry sub-soil. Plant the vines about 
1 foot from the wall, and 3 or 4 feet apart, one under 
each rafter, for the spur system ; but for the cane system, 
they should be 6 or 8 feet apart. To manage a glass house, 
and more especially a hot house, well, requires much skill 
and experience. Allen's work on this subject is excellent. 

Training. There are several systems of training, and 
various modes without any regular system, by training the 
vines in any way, according to convenience, taste, or fancy. 
The spur system is most common in glass houses, and fan 
training in open culture. In any mode of culture, spurs, 
branches, or whole vines may be cut back, so as to have the 
advantages of the renewal system. Vines may be trained 
in any desirable direction, (even underground,) to buildings, 
trees, walls, &c, and then trained in the cane, spur, or fan 
form upon them. 

The Cane, or Renewal System. The first season one branch 
a ff is trained up ; in the fall this is cut back 

! to 3 or 4 eyes, and the next season 
; another is trained up, and the first is 
o\ extended ; both are then laid down and 
\ trained horizontally, near the surface ; 
/ and from each a cane is trained up, 
'^ (a, a.) The next season these will bear 
" truit, and two more canes, (b,b,) trained 
up to bear fruit the next season, when 
a, a are cut out near the horizontal 
branch, leaving one eye, and new shoots 
The Cane System. tra i ne d, and so on. Dr. W. C. Chandler, 
21* 




246 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



of South Natick, Ms., trains in this way, and he has sent us 
fine Isabellas an inch in diameter. Some train up the 
main vine perpendicularly on a building, to a convenient 
place, and then extend canes horizontally, and renew as 
above. The cane system gives excellent fruit, as it is al- 
ways on new wood ; but the yield is generally larger by spur 
or fan training. The canes should be as much as 2 feet 
apart. If the vine is strong, the horizontal branches may 
be extended, so as to have 8 or 10 canes. 

The Spur System is the training up 
of the main stem, and of spurs horizon- 
tally, cutting back the spurs, annual- 
ly, to 2, 3, or 4 eyes of the new 
wood, according to the strength of the 
vine, and number of the spurs. 

When the spurs have extended too 
far, cut out a part, yearly, training up 
new ones, thus changing all the old 
wood to new ; and as the vines become 
old and unproductive, cut down part 
at a time, and train up new ones. 
This will combine the cane and spur 
method, and is an excellent system. 

The Fan, or Tree System, (page 55,) 
or other convenient modes, are prac- 
tised in vineyards, and in common 
garden culture, or in training grapes 
in yards, by walls, trees, buildings, 
&c. In gardens or vineyards, a trel- 
lis may be formed by setting posts, or 
stakes 6 or 8 feet high, and nailing on 
narrow strips of boards, or stakes 
alone are sufficient, if set 15 or 20 
inches apart. In vineyards, where 
the vines are about 3 or 4 feet apart, Tfle s P ur System. 
sometimes only one stake is set to a vine, and the lateral or 
oblique branches are trained to the neighboring stakes. 

Pruning of grapes is not generally well understood. 
Some do not prune at all at the proper season ; they have a 
mass of vines and only a little fruit, and that poor. Anoth- 
er absurdity, which is often added to the above, is cutting 
off the young shoots in summer, just above the fruit,, and 
sometimes still worse, picking off the leaves to expose the 
fruit to the sun. 




THE GRAPE. 247 

The sap ascends to the leaves, and there mingles with 
matter, absorbed by the foliage, then it is digested, or elab- 
orated into food, which descends to nourish the plant. So 
essential are the leaves, that a blight on the foliage destroys 
the fruit, and a frequent repetition is death to the plant. 
The leaves, not the fruit, should be exposed to the sun. We 
urge this point, as thousands mistake, and grapes are gen- 
erally mismanaged. 

As pruning the vine young prevents the growth of the 
root, but little should be done for a year or two after it is set. 
In Nov., or early in Dec, all vines in open culture should be 
pruned liberally. If pruned in spring, before leaved out, 
they will bleed ; they may bleed in spring if pruned in win- 
ter. In pruning rather tender vines, leave more wood than 
is needed, as some may be killed, and finish pruning in 
spring as soon as the leaves are nearly developed, when the 
life of the vine may be seen. In summer allow a good 
growth beyond the fruit, and about midsummer, pinch off 
the ends of the branches, to check them, and cut out feeble 
laterals, and branches on which there is no fruit ; then there 
will be much foliage to absorb matter, and prepare nutri- 
ment, and by checking the growth of wood, it will be appro- 
priated to perfect the fruit. The two great errors are in neg- 
lecting to cut off useless wood in fall, and in depriving the 
plant of useful foliage by close pruning in summer. 

Foreign grapes are pruned severely, leaving 2 to 4 eyes of 
the past season's growth ; but with native vines, several feet 
are left, much depending on the peculiar nature of the vine, 
(as they vary much,) number of branches, vigor of the plant, 
the soil, &c. Some will bear on a large extent of vine ; oth- 
ers need forcing by close pruning, else the fruit will fall or 
fail. Summer pruning is not necessary, excepting to remove 
feeble branches, and laterals that bear no fruit ; but 
when there is sufficient growth beyond the fruit, check it, by 
nipping off the top, and keeping it reduced, not allowing the 
vine to expend its resources in making wood that is regarded 
as useless, and cut off as soon as it is grown. 

In all cases, liberal pruning late in fall is necessary, for 
vines are limited at their roots ; and the shoots never bear but 
one year, the crop being wholly on the last year's growth, which 
shows the importance of constantly cutting bark, and mak- 
ing new wood ; and those parts that grow late do not ripen 
so as to produce fruit. 



248 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Some, who grow grapes under glass, pinch off the main 
shoots 2 or 3 eyes from the fruit, and they would do the 
same in open culture ; but with vigorous natives we prefer 
a larger growth, allowing the vines to run till July, even if 
they extend 6 or 8 feet, or more. 

The vine, left to nature, sets more fruit than it can per- 
fect, so the value of the crop depends on judicious pruning. 

Reduction of Fruit. Grapes generally overbear, which 
is injurious to the vine, often producing exhaustion, and the 
fruit is far inferior when abundant. The best mode of reduc- 
tion is by close pruning, so as to prevent much fruit from 
setting. If too much sets, thin it in season, that the juices 
of the vine may not be wasted on what must be removed. 
Excessive bearing is injurious to all plants. 

Bleeding. Grape vines usually bleed profusely on being 
cut or injured, in the spring, before the leaves are developed, 
which is injurious, as the sap is the life of the plant. In 
case of accidental injury, wet a piece of bladder, and tie 
several thicknesses tight over the wound ; if the force of sap 
is great, this is hardly sufficient ; but sheet India-rubber is 
effectual. Dr. C. T. Jackson, of this city, a distinguished 
chemist, whose experiments and investigations have thrown 
much light on the subject of cultivation, cut off a grape 
vine, and applied a glass tube tightly to the stump, and the 
sap rose 26 inches, and ran over, so great was the power of 
expulsion. Some suppose that bleeding is not injurious, or 
that it may be beneficial ; but this wants confirmation. 

Mildew is frequently very destructive to grapes, more 
especially under glass, and in sheltered situations, where 
there is not a good circulation of air. Sulphur or lime 
has been used with success, and better where both are 
used together. The peculiar region of grapes is a region of 
sulphur. They flourish well on Mount Etna, where once 
flowed rivers of lava. 

Strew lime and sulphur on the soil and dig them in lightly. 
One may be sufficient. Plaster may be used, as it is a sul- 
phate of lime ; it contains both of these ingredients. The 
following is used with success. Put half a pound of sul- 
phur and one peck of quicklime into a tight barrel. Pour 
on boiling water, sufficient to slack the lime. Pour 3 gallons 
soft water on the top, stir well, and let it settle. In 24 hours 
take the clear water from the top, and put into a stone jar 
for use. Add half a pint of it to 3 gallons of water, and 



THE GRAPE. 249 

apply with a syringe or otherwise, when the grapes are set- 
ting, twice or thrice a week, for 2 or 3 weeks. It will not 
injure foliage or fruit, and is a good manure. Covering the 
ground, in out-door culture, several inches deep with straw, 
sea-weed, or other litter, is one of the surest preventives, 
as it guards against the extremes of heat and cold, and 
against drought, and it greatly increases the crop. 

Insects. Rose bugs are often very injurious, devouring 
all the foliage, which checks the growth and destroys the 
crop. They are difficult to kill, as a corrosive substance 
that will kill them will also destroy the foliage and injure 
tender shoots. They must be attacked with offensive sub- 
stances that are harmless to trees. (Page 73.) Lime ash- 
es and plaster sprinkled on the vines when the dew is on, 
is offensive to the rose bug, but not destructive, nor always 
effectual in driving them. The span worm is an insidious 
enemy, lying close to the stem of the leaf. Most easily de- 
stroyed by the fingers. The great green worm is occasion- 
ally seen on the grape vine, but is easily destroyed, from its 
large size. The Thrips, or vine-fretter, and many other in- 
sects, infest the grape, which may be destroyed as recom- 
mended on page 73. 

Preserving. Grapes are kept in good condition until win- 
ter or spring, by being packed in cotton-batting ; kiln-dried 
wheat bran is also good; so is perfectly dry saw-dust, or 
cork-dust. Various other substances are good, but they 
should be perfectly dried by a strong heat. After being 
packed, keep in a dry place, as cool as possible without 
freezing. 

"We have kept grapes several months in excellent condi- 
tion, by laying them into small baskets, on paper, 4 to 8 
quarts in each, covering them with paper, cotton, or a cloth, 
and hanging them up in a well aired, dry room. This is 
one of the best modes. 

Grapes are imported in fine condition, packed in cork- 
dust, or ground cork. They may be kept long in stone jars, 
with or without cotton, or other suitable materials. Fit the 
cover close by paper around it, and then tie several layers 
of paper closely over the top, and keep cool. Cotton wad- 
ding is better than batting, as it is glazed, and does not 
stick to the fruit, but it is dearer. 



250 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



Foreign Grapes, (Vitis vim/era.) 

Nearly all the grapes cultivated under glass in this country 
are foreign, and no foreign grape holds a high rank lor any 
other purpose, not even in our warm or hot climates. Our 
winters are too cold, our summers too hot. They soon de- 
cline. They have failed in the East, West, North, and South, 
after many years' trial, and numerous and varied experi- 
ments, under the most skilful and persevering cultivators. 

Longworth made experiments on 10,000 imported vines, 
from different parts of Europe, some from the Jura mountains, 
the confines of the wine region. A few years since he 
remarked, "I advise all who are planting vineyards, to 
place no reliance on foreign grapes. I was 20 years at this, 
and spent some thousands of dollars to no purpose. I do 
not cultivate a single foreign grape in my vineyards." 
Kirtland says that the hardiest foreign grapes do not suc- 
ceed more than one or two years in the open air, while the 
vines are young, then the fruit mildews. 

Yet some foreign grapes occasionally succeed under 
favorable circumstances. Sometimes we have fine speci- 
mens of Sweet-water, White Muscadine, and others, even in 
N. England. The first six kinds that follow are generally 
preferred for cultivating under glass, and they are arranged 
in order as preferred. Most of them ripen under glass 
without fire heat. 

1. Black Hamburgh, Purple Ham- 
burgh, Victoria. Bunches very large, 
and double-shouldered ; berries very 
large, oval-roundish ; skin rather 
thick, dark purple ; flesh melting ; 
juicy, with a rich, sugary, luscious 
flavor. Very productive, and gen- 
erally preferred to all others. Occa- 
sionally it endures the winter of N. 
England out doors; but the ripening 
of the fruit in the open air is un- 
certain, even in the Middle States. Black Hamburgh. 

2. Black Prince, Alicant, Boston. Bunches large, long, 
somewhat shouldered • berries large ; oval ; skin thick, black, 
with blue bloom ; flesh melting, juicy, with a sweet, excellent, 
high flavor. A strong grower and great bearer. Buist says 
that growers there prefer them to the Hamburg. More 





THE GRAPE. 251 

hardy than the Hamburgh, sometimes ripening fruit out doors, 
in favorable seasons, in the Middle and Western States. 

3. "White Muscat of Alexandria. 
Bunches large, broad and shouldered ; 
berries large ; oval ; skin thick, reddish- 
black ; flesh firm, with a sweet, rich, 
peculiar, musky flavor; requires arti- 
ficial heat, and should be very ripe. 

4. "White Frontignan, White Con- 
stantia. Bunches medial, long, no 
shoulders ; berries medial ; round ; skin 
thin, waxy, white, with a fine bloom ; 
flesh tender, juicy, with a fine perfume, 
and rich, musky flavor. Hardy and 
productire. 

5. Black Frontignan, Purple Con- White M ^^°f Alex ~ 
sta,7itia. Bunches rather small, long 

and compact ; berries medial ; round ; skin thin, black, 
with violet bloom ; flavor musky and rich. A good bearer. 

6. "White Muscadine, Royal Musca- 
dine, White Chaselas, Golden Chaselas. 
Bunches large, long, and shouldered ; 
berries large medial ; round ; skin thin, 
golden color in sun ; flesh tender, melt- 
ing, with a rich, sugary, delicious flavor. 
A strong grower, and great bearer. Bu- 
ist has seen a vine, in a pot, with 29 
bunches of fruit. Quite hardy and adapt- Wliite Muscadine. 
ed to the vinery or open culture. It ripens in the Middle 
sections of our country ; it endures the cold of N. England, 
and we have occasionally had well ripened fruit in favorable 
locations, 12 or 15 days later than Sweet- water. 

7. Charge's Henling. Bunches large ; berries medial ; 
round ; jet black ; flesh melting, of a sweet, spicy flavor. A 
great bearer in pot or in the ground. Imported 5 years ago, 
by Buist. 

8. Dec an's Superb. Bunches large, and well shouldered ; 
berries large ; round ; greenish-white ; flesh and flavor sim- 
ilar to Hamburgh. A strong grower. Imported 4 years 
since by Buist, which he thinks promises to be the finest 
white grape for size and bearing. 

9. Black Lombardy, West's St. Peters. Bunches large, 
shouldered ; berries large ; roundish ; reddish-black ; flesh 




252 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

melting, of a rich, sweet flavor. A strong grower and ex- 
cellent Dearer. Requires much fire-heat to perfect it. 

10. White Sweet-watek, Early White Muscadine, White 
Muscadine of Lindley. Bunches medial ; berries medial ; 
round ; transparent, pale-green ; flesh tender, watery, sweet, 
but little flavor. Often ripens here in open culture. The 
vines are protected by covering with earth in the fall. Sept. 
1, in Middle States ; last of Sept. here. 

11. Black Cluster. Bunches small; berries medial 
roundish ; black ; very sweet and pleasant. It is hardy, 
and flourishes well in the Middle and Western States, where 
it ripens in the latter part of Sept. 

12. Early White Muscat. Buist represents this as very 
early, having well formed bunches, and berries round ; yel- 
lowish-white ; flesh very rich, juicy, spicy, and high-flavored. 
A great bearer. Large bunches weigh 1£ lbs. 

The Native Grape, (Vitis.) 

This grape abounds in most all parts of the country. 
Some choice kinds, or seedlings from native kinds, are the 
best we have for open culture. Among those well known, 
the Isabella and Catawba rank the highest. They are both 
tolerably hardy, even in the North. As the former is 2 or 3 
weeks the earliest, it bears extension further North, some- 
times ripening in Maine and N. Hampshire ; but from lateness 
and other causes it does not succeed well half the time in 
this climate. These two kinds are fine for the Middle and 
Western States. In the Eastern section the Isabella is pre- 
ferred, and in the West the Catawba. Dr. Underhill, a dis- 
tinguished and successful vine-grower, at Croton Point, on 
the Hudson river, has a vineyard of 20 acres, nearly all Isa- 
bellas, the rest Catawba. We have had grapes from his 
vineyard of great excellence. H. W. S. Cleveland, Esq., of 
Burlington, N. J., is going into the extensive culture of the 
Isabella. Buist says that he has given Isabella and Ham- 
burgh grapes to his friends, and they have preferred the 
former. We suppose both were raised under glass. In the 
West the Catawba is considered far preferable, being better 
for the table, far better for wines, and requiring no sugar ; 
and it is less liable to rot. Both of these are liable to rot 
at the South ; but when they maiure they are very fine. 
When both are well ripened, the Catawba is of the finest 



THE GRAPE. 



253 



flavor, being more vinous, but not quite so sweet as the Isa- 
bella. 

Some are making experiments on seedling grapes, and we 
shall have something excellent and hardy by and by, even 
for the North. We have a collection of 40 or 50 vines, on 
trial, from various sections, all recommended as good, and 
some we know to be excellent, but we have not fully tested 
them. And we have raised, for experiment, 4 or 500 seedlings 
from 20 or 30 different kinds* From all these, and future 
seedlings and collections, we hope to get a few excellent 
kinds, sufficient for a good assortment, adapted to north- 
ern regions. 

1. Isabella. Bunches large, rather 
compact, shouldered. Berries large ; oval ; 
purplish black, with blue bloom ; skin 
thick ; flesh tender, with little pulp, juicy, 
sweet, and rich, with slight musky and aro- 
matic flavor. Ripens in N. England the 
last of Sept., and in Oct. In the Middle 
and Western States in Sept., and first of 
Oct. In this section it is the best grape 
well known, yet it fails more than half 
the time, and is always too late. It sel- 
dom ripens in Me., N. H., and Vt. It is 
tolerably hardy, very vigorous, and a great 
bearer, sometimes yielding 10 bushels to a vine. Native 
of S. Carolina. 

2. Catawba. Bunches medial; loose; 
shouldered ; berries large ; roundish or 
slightly oval ; reddish-purple ; with a pur- 

le bloom ; thick skin : flesh a little pulpy, 

ut juicy, sweet, with a rich, musky, aro- 
matic flavor. Ripens two weeks later 
than Isabella. The finest of all grapes for 
the table, and for wine in most parts of the 
Middle Region of the U. S., particularly 
in the West, where it is cultivated very extensively. It is 
used almost exclusively in Ohio, for wine. The Catawba 
is tolerably hardy, very vigorous and productive. Native 
of Virginia, near the Catawba river. 

3. Diana. Fruit in bunch and berry much like its parent, 
the Catawba, but with less color. Berries round; juicy, 
rich, sweet, with musky aroma. Ripens about the time of 

22 




Isabella. 




Catawba. 



254 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Isabella. Hardy, vigorous, and productive. We have prop- 
agated it rapidly by layers and cuttings. We saw on the 
original vine branches of 20 feet, stout growth, in one sea- 
son. Raised by Mrs. Diana Crehore, Milton, Ms. 

4. Alexander's, Cape, Schuylkill Muscadell. Bunches 
compact ; berries medial ; oval ; skin thick, black ; flesh 
firm, pulpy, juicy, sweet, musky. Late. Dr. Flagg says it 
is next to the Catawba for wine. 

5. Shurtleff's Seedling. Bunches large ; berries medial ; 
oval ; skin thick, lilac ; flesh of a sweet, rich flavor. Ripe 
early in Sept. Raised by Dr. S. A. Shurtleff, Brookline, 
Ms., from foreign seed. Not yet fairly tested. 

6. Norton's Seedling, Norton's Virginia. Bunches long, 
compact ; berries small ; round ; skin thin, dark puq)le ; 
flesh pulpy, with rather harsh flavor. In the Middle Region 
of our country it is denounced as no better than wild grapes 
for the table. Weller says it is one of the finest, in all respects, 
for the table and for wine. By Dr. S. Norton, Richmond, Va. 

7. Winnie. Resembles the Isabella. 
But the berries are round, and have a little 
less of the musky flavor than Isabella. 
Wm. B. Kingsbury, Esq., a very skilful 
fruit-grower, of Roxbury, Ms., has a very 
flourishing and productive Winnie grape, 
grafted into a wild vine. Origin, Alban5 r , 
supposed. This is not the Winnie or Alex- 
ander of Downing. 

8. Halifax Seedling. Weller has this 

grape from Weller's Halifax, which promises to be inferior 
to none, in every respect, for that climate. Fruit like the 
Catawba, but sweeter, and the same size. 

9. White Scuppernong, American Muscadine. Bunches 
quite small ; berries large ; round ; greenish-white ; flesh 
sweet, musky flavor. It is a common wild vine of the 
South. Weller says it is the best grape for the South, is ex- 
cellent for the table and for wine. Mr. J. Noyes, of Natch- 
ez, says it does well there. It cannot be propagated by cut- 
tings, but hy layers. The Black Scuppernong is about the 
same as the White. 

10. Clinton. Bunches medial ; berries roundish ; black ; 
flesh sweet, and rather harsh flavor. Though inferior to 
Isabella, it is valued in the North from its being more hardy 
and earlier. Origin, Clinton, N. Y 




THE GRArE. 255 

11. Elsinburgh. Bunches large; berries small ; round; 
black ; tender, and sweet. A good table grape. A moderate 
bearer. Hardy. Much cultivated in Burlington, N. J. 

12. Missouri. Bunches medial ; berries small ; round ; 
blackish ; flesh tender, very sweet. Longworth says it 
makes a fine wine, resembling Madeira, but it is less pro- 
ductive than Catawba. 

13. Lenoir, Herbemont, HerbemonVs Madeira. Bunch- 
es large ; berries small ; round ; purple ; flesh sweet, excel- 
lent. Weller says it often rots in the South. Longworth 
says it is a fine table grape, and makes excellent wine, but 
it rots. Some think Lenoir and Herbemont are two kinds, 
alike in fruit, but slightly different in wood. 

14. Seedling Schuylkill Muscadell. Bunches and ber- 
ries small; round; dark purple; tender, sweet, pleasant flavor. 
Free from musk, acidity, or astringency. Last of Aug. 

15. Ohio, Longworth' 's Ohio. Bunches large ; berries small; 
excellent. Ripens with the Isabella. Too tender for the 
North. The Ohio Fruit Convention says, of no value except 
to the amateur. Weller says it is of no peculiar excellence. 

16. Bland, Bland's Virginia. Bunches long and loose ; 
berries small ; round ; pale-red ; flesh pleasant ; late, and 
too tender for the North or Northern Regions of the Middle 
States. Longworth says, a fine table grape, but a bad bear- 
er, and does not ripen well. 

17. Limington White. Large bunch and berry ; good 
quality ; hardy for the North. But little known. 

We have fine grapes from Col. L. Chase, Cornish, N. H., 
and have raised seedlings from them. Our vines do not 
bear yet, but we have had the fruit from our worthy friend, 
(whose laudable example we commend ;) some kinds are 
excellent and early. We are now brief on these, and we 
omit some other promising kinds, as they are for trial and 
comparison. We hope to make a report, by and by, that 
will gladden the hearts of northern cultivators. 

Strawberry, bunch and berry small ; pleasant, sub-acid 
flavor. Coon, the same, only sweet. Nizola, medial bunch 
and berry; vinous and excellent. All these last of Aug. 
and Sept. Early Isabella, large bunch and berry, more 
sprightly, less sweet, and earlier than Isabella. Seedling 
Nizola, medial bunch and berry ; pleasant sub-acid. Sept. 
1. Beaver dam, large bunch and berry ; very musky and 
pungent ; ripens with Isabella. This and Seedling Nizola 
good for wine. 




256 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

THE QUINCE, (Cydonia vulgaris.) 

The Quince is a native of Europe. 
It is a small tree or shrub, usually 8 
to 10 feet high, with crooked stems, 
and rambling branches. The leaves 
green above, whitish underneath ; flow- 
ers large, pink and white ; the fruit, 
which is on the shoots of the same 
year's growth, is large, orange color, 
austere in its raw state, with a peculiar, 
pleasant, high fragrance. When loaded 
with ripe fruit the quince tree is highly ornamental. 

Uses. This is one of the very best fruits for preserves, 
marmalade, sauces, syrups, jellies, &c, either alone or with 
other fruits, to which it imparts its fine flavor. For this pur- 
pose it is used in tarts, pies, pastry, and sauces. The liquid, 
after washing the fruit with water, and standing twenty-four 
hours, makes a good wine with sugar. Medicinally, the 
quince is cooling and strengthening. The juice is good 
against nausea. The ripe fruit, eaten raw, is said to be good 
for spitting of blood, also for swollen spleen, the dropsy, and 
difficulty of breathing. The stock is highly valuable for 
dwarf pears. The Portugal is said to be best for this pur- 
pose, but the Apple quince is equally thrifty. 

Soil, Culture, Propagation, Training, &c. The quince 
will flourish in soil varying from clayey loam, or moist, cool 
situations near streams and ponds, to dry, gravelly ridges. 
We have seen the finest crops on rather dry, gravelly hills. 
It is a false notion that the quince must be on wet land. 
The intermediate space between wet and dry land, bordering 
streams and ponds, is very favorable, but it does equally well 
on good high land tillage. In the North, a warm soil and 
location are necessary to ripen the Pear and Portugal varie- 
ties. Manure well, using the same dressing as for other fruit 
trees, and give deep and thorough culture, allowing no weeds 
or grass around them. Set the trees 8 or 10 feet apart, or 
nearer for dwarfs, and shorten in, as in pruning peaches. 

In most cases, quinces will produce the same from seed, 
but they are inclined to sport a little ; hence a multiplicity of 
forms, varying from the apple to the pear. Raise from the 
seed in the same way as apples and pears. They may be 
very easily propagated by layers or cuttings, also by grafting 



THE QUINCE. 



257 



and budding. Trained as a tree, the quince is the neatest 
and most convenient in tillage ; but the bush form is the 
most natural, and when trained in this way, if a branch be 
destroyed by the borer, another will succeed in its place. In 
the bush mode, trimming is often necessary, else the fruit will 
be inferior to that from the tree form. 

The Middle and Western States seem to be the peculiar 
home of the quince, but it flourishes well in this State ; and 
in warm soil and situations, the Apple quince may be extend- 
ed to the northern part of N. England, and in Upper Can- 
ada. The borer (page 88) is very destructive to the quince, 
but less so on moist land. 

Vabieties. Some think there is only one kind, with mod- 
ifications ; others say that there are a great many ; both are 
in the extreme. There are four kinds only, used for cooking. 



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AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



2. Pear or Pear-shaped, Oblong, 

Pyriform. Medial ; oblong, tapering 

to the stem, much like a common pear ; 

golden-yellow, or greenish ; flesh firm, 

tough, dry, astringent, of a fine aromatic 

flavor and fragrance, highly valuable for 

cooking. Leaves oblong-ovate. Moderate 

bearer. Oct. 

y 



3. Portugal. Large; oblong, largest 
in the middle; yellow; the flesh rather 
tender and not highly fragrant, resem- 
bling the Apple rather than the Pear- 
quince in these respects. The leaf 
long and broad. A shy bearer. 



THE APRICOT. 259 

4. Musk. Small, or half the size of the other kinds ; 
roundish ; highly scented. But little cultivated. Too small 
for market. 

Ornamental Varieties. Chinese (Pyrus sinensis) is a 
pretty shrub, of upright growth, oval, shining leaves, and 
pink flowers. Fruit beautiful ; large ; long-oval ; smooth ; 
greenish yellow ; flesh firm, dry ; makes a beautiful pink- 
colored preserve. Ripens late. Japan (Pyrus Japonica) is 
a low shrub, with small, dark leaves, bright scarlet flowers. 
Fruit dark green, hard, unpleasant, and useless. Blush 
Japan has wlrite flowers with a blush ; otherwise similar to 
the latter. 

THE APRICOT, (Prunus Armenia.) 

The Apricot, with its early white blossoms, glossy foliage, 
and yellow ruddy fruit, is very ornamental as well as useful. 
The fruit resembles a peach externally; the stone is like that 
of a plum, and the flesh of some kinds seems to be interme- 
diate between these two fruits. It is usually dryer than the 
peach, but Brown's Early, Newhall's Early, and some others, 
are juicy, and in quality are equal to an excellent peach. 
The Apricot is important from its earliness, coming in be- 
tween the main crop of cherries and early apples, pears, 
peaches, and plums. The tree is small and spreading, re- 
sembling a plum tree, tolerably hardy, but, as it blossoms 
earlier than other fruit trees, it is more liable to injury from 
frost. It flourishes best in the Middle States. N. England 
is too far north for raising it to much extent. Some hardy 
kinds, and natives of New England, do pretty well in shel- 
tered locations. Generally, it is very uncertain. 

Uses. The apricot is excellent for the dessert, and, in 
moderation, very wholesome. It is also fine for preserves, 
pastries, marmalade, jellies, syrups, and for drying. 

Propagation. It is more productive on the plum, as this 
fits it for strong moist soils, where it blossoms later, and is 
less exposed to the curculio. It is more liable to fail on the 
peach. From valuable natural trees good kinds may gener- 
ally be raised from seed, that will be good and more hardy 
and durable. We have on trial the Golden, said to be first 
rate, and it produces its like from seed. Kirtland whip grafts, 
early in spring, on wild plum stalks, with excellent success. 
He sets the scion with one bud above the ground. 



260 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Soil, Location, and Culture. The best soil is a deep, 
rich, moist loam. It does best trained as espaliers. When 
very luxuriant, shorten in, as with the peach, for, like this, 
it produces its fruit on the last year's shoots. In the North, 
it succeeds best in cities, towns, and villages, which afford 
some protection. Cultivate and manure as for the peach and 
plum. 

Varieties. Brown's Early and Newhall's Early are su- 
perior, but have not been well tested. Moorpark is very 
good and hardy, and most cultivated here, and that is but 
very little. Dubois is hardy and productive, but inferior in 
quality. Large Early and Peach are excellent ; Hemskirke 
new, but very promising. For the North, Dubois, Roman, 
Moorpark, and others for trial. 

1. Brown's Early. Very large ; short-oval ; yellow, 
bright red cheek ; flesh yellow, melting, juicy, rich, luscious 
flavor, and high perfume. We describe from memory. This 
is the largest, best, and one of the earliest of apricots. A 
very great grower, and promises to be productive. It is in 
Chelsea, Ms., and as we can find nothing like it in books or 
catalogues, we think it is original. 20 to 30 July. 

2. Newhall's Early. Medial ; short-oval ; bright orange ; 
deep red cheek ; tender, melting, juicy, of rich, delicious 
flavor. First rate. Clingstone. July 25 to Aug. 5. By 
Paul Newhall, Lynn, Ms. 

3. Moorpark. Large ; roundish-oval ; yellow, ruddy 
cheek ; flesh bright orange, melting, juicy, of a rich flavor. 
Freestone. A small perforation through the stone. 1 to 15 
Aug. Origin, England. Slow growth ; enormous bearer. 
Needs a strong, deep, rich soil, and sheltered location in 
this climate. 

4. Dubois's Early Golden. Small ; roundish-oval ; pale 
orange ; moderately juicy and sweet, good flavor. Free- 
stone. 10 days earlier than Moorpark. Very productive, 
and generallv free from curculio. Fruit of original tree sold 
in New York, in 1846, for $90. By Mr. C. Dubois, Fishkill 
Landing, N. Y. From Horticulturist. We have this grow- 
ing, and it seems hardy. 

5. Large Early. Medial ; roundish-ovate, deep suture ; 
orange, bright red in the sun ; rich, juicy, and excellent. 
Freestone. Last of July. Productive. 

6. Hemskirke. Large medial ; roundish; bright orange, 
red in the sun ; tender, juicy, rich flavor. First rate. Stone 



THE STRAWBERRY. 261 

small. Aug. 1. Vigorous ; great bearer. Origin. England. 
But little known in this country. 

7. Peach. Very large ; roundish, with compressed sides ; 
distinct suture ; yellow, with deep orange and dark brown 
in the sun ; flesh deep yellow, juicy, rich, with a high, de- 
licious flavor. Perforation in the stone. Aug. 1. Origin, 
France. A very large, handsome, and excellent variety. 

8. Breda. Small ; roundish ; deep orange, blush spots in 
the sun ; juicy, of a rich, pleasant, vinous flavor. Fine for 
preserves. Freestone. Former part of Aug. Vigorous and 
productive. Origin, Africa. 

9. Roman. Medial ; oblong ; pale yellow, rarely red dots ; 
flesh rather dry. Hardy for the North. Aug. 1. 

THE STRAWBERRY, (Fragaria.) 

The Strawberry is peculiar to the temperate regions of the 
old and new world. In many parts of this country it grows 
wild on new lands, furnishing large crops of the finest fruit. 
It is much cultivated near markets, and though the culture 
is greatly extending, the demand keeps up the price. Cin- 
cinnati is the greatest strawberry market in the world. The 
quantity in 1847 was 6000 bushels. One grower, in 1846, 
picked 128 bushels daily during the height. In this vicinity 
some make it their chief business, and cultivate several 
acres. 

It is usually a good crop, sometimes highly profitable, 
yielding $800 to the acre, but on an average $300 to $400. 
Mr. J. O. Wellington, West Cambridge, raised 3000 quart 
boxes on three quarters of an acre, and sold them at 37£ 
cents per box. Mr. Job Sumner, of Roxbury, raised, of 
Early Virginia, at the rate of $1600 worth to the acre, at 25 
cents per box. 

Uses. It is one of the most delicious and wholesome, and 
the earliest of all fruits. It is excellent for the dessert. It 
makes a fine jam and jelly ; and it is used for ices, preserves, 
and various condiments. With the juice and sugar we have 
made the finest of wine, excellent for invalids. The juice 
makes a cooling and refreshing drink. 

Soil and Manure. The strawberry flourishes well on any 
good tillage, from rather moist to tolerably dry. Heavy lands 
are hard to work, and on very dry soil, a drought may cause 
a failure. Prefer a deep, friable loam. As there is much 



262 . AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

labor and great produce on a small space, it is good economy 
to use the best soil, and put it in the finest condition. Com- 
mon stable manure is good. Use also, if convenient, wood 
ashes, bone manure, plaster, salt, lime. &cc. Ashes and bone 
manure are cheaper than all stable manure on dry lands. 

Propagation. Where there is a fine fertile soil around 
plants, they propagate themselves very rapidly, by runners 
that take root, and send up new plants. In this way, a few 
plants, set in spring, will soon cover the ground. The Red 
and White Bush Alpine have no runners, and are propagated 
by dividing the roots. 

Culture. Prepare the land by liberal manuring, deep 
ploughing, and thorough pulverization ; and in the spring, 
as soon as the plants start, that strong ones may be selected, 
set out rows 4 feet apart, then the cultivator may be run 
between them, and save much labor. If the plants are set 
early, and the land is in good tilth, and rather moist, set 
Early Virginia and other vigorous growers, 10 to 12 inches 
apart in the row ; and Hovey's Seedling and other moderate 
growers 7, 8, or 9 inches, and the vines will run and cover 
the land, excepting a narrow path between the rows. If cir- 
cumstances are unfavorable, set closer, or every 4 feet set 
2 rows 18 inches apart. 

Some set in August and the first of September ; it is 
often convenient after taking off early crops ; and if it be 
wet, this season answers well ; but if it be dry, only a few 
new plants will be produced. The surer way is to set 2 
rows as named above, or 3 rows a foot apart, to every 
4 feet, and set the plants a little nearer in the row than 
above ; then, if they do not form many new plants, there will 
be old ones enough for a good crop. 

The first season, keep the land well cultivated, and free 
from weeds, stirring the soil often. The next spring, thin 
the plants when too thick, destroy all weeds, and stir the 
soil, but not after the plants blossom. After hoeing, and 
before the plants have grown much, spread among them 
straw, sea-weed, pine skives or leaves, or other litter, to keep 
the berries free from grit and the land loose and moist. This 
will decay and form manure. A full crop may be expected. 

Soon after the crop is off, apply compost manure, then 
harrow until one third or one half the plants are torn up, if 
they are very thick. With a pronged hoe mix the manure 
with the soil, if not done sufficiently with the harrow. Some 



THE STRAWBERRY. . 263 

omit applying manure till fall or spring, and work it into 
the soil in the spring. This is like the peasant who crammed 
his turkey in order to fat it, and had just completed the oper- 
ation as his guests arrived who were to feast upon it. To 
get a good crop, manure and cultivate well the previous year, 
after the crop is off; then the plants will be strong and pro- 
ductive. The second spring, thin the plants if too thick, and 
apply litter, as before. 

After the second crop is off, plough in the vines, and set 
cabbages, or sow turnips, or other late crops. In this way, 
3 crops are obtained from the land in 3 years. After 2 
crops of strawberries, the plants become too thick, and the 
land may be full of weeds and need renovation. Yet, by 
care in thinning, manuring, and thorough culture, beds 
have been continued good 4 or 5 years. The harrow may 
be used to aid in this improvement. Some mow their plants 
in August, when it is not very dry ; others burn them over. 
They flourish well and produce large berries when partially 
shaded, but they are not so sweet. 

Constant Culture on the same Land. Plant and man- 
age as usual until the first crop is off; then, or in a short 
time, turn under deeply all the plants, excepting a strip 
about 8 or 10 inches wide, between the paths, manuring the 
land well, and making it fine and mellow. The plants on 
this strip will send out runners, and cover the land with 
plants. In the fall or spring, turn in the narrow strip, and 
use it for a path, taking up a little of the soil and spreading 
it over the plants. This will protect the plants, both by the 
soil and by the depression, allowing the water to drain off. 
If it be dry in fall, and plenty of plants are not established, 
let the strips of old plants remain, and use the same paths 
again. 

In this mode, bury some manure with the plants, and apply 
compost, ashes, bone, or other mineral manures, on the sur- 
face, after turning in the plants, and work them into the 
surface soil. Some leave the paths nearly as wide as the 
beds, which gives alternate culture and rest to the land. By 
this mode, the land will bear a succession of crops, as the 
principal production, the plants, is turned in for manure. 

Condition of the Flowers. In its wild state, the straw- 
berry has perfect flowers, like the apple, pear, &cc. (Page 
75.) But owing to high culture and new seedlings, many 
varieties now vary from this primeval form. Some are 



264 . AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

mostly staminate, and will in no case produce large crops 5 
others are pistillate, and alone will yield but little, and that 
imperfect, fruit ; but with a perfect or staminate kind to fer- 
tilize them, they will yield larger crops than can be obtained 
even from perfect kinds. 

Strawberry Blossoms* 




Perfect. Staminate. Pistillate. 



In the left figure, the centre (a) is a little cone similar to a 
small green strawberry, and is composed of pistils, and the 
little stems around it (b) represent the stamens, with anthers 
at top, which contain the fertilizing dust. In the middle 
figure, the centre is small, as the pistils are imperfect, while 
the stamens are fully developed. In the right figure, the 
pistils or centre organs are full and large, and no stamens 
are perceptible. The flower-leaves or petals are smaller than 
in the other conditions. 

The strawberry is not wholly staminate or pistillate, like 
those plants that were originally and are invariably only one 
or the other ; but the staminate kinds have rudiments of" pis- 
tils, and the pistillate kinds have stamens imperfectly devel- 
oped. Hence partial crops on such. Cultivators are aware that 
plants produce their fruit on pistillate flowers, (page 75,) and 
that the pollen of the staminate is necessary to fertilize them. 

To Longworth belongs the honor of first publishing to the 
world this anomalous condition of the strawberry, and the 
mode of turning it to good account ; and his system is now 
almost universally adopted. There will be living monu- 
ments to his memory, while the rains fall, the sun shines, 
and science equally genial beams on the human mind. 

Culture of Pistillate Plants. Some set every third 
row or bed of 4 feet wide with staminate or perfect kinds. 
Others think every fourth or fifth is sufficient, but this is not 
well settled. To prevent mixing, do not allow them to cross 
the path. If it is not intended to keep the kinds separate, 



THE STRAWBERRY. 265 

set both kinds in the same row, putting a staminate every five 

or six feet, and place them thus ; (s, staminate ; p, pistillate ;) 

spppppspppppsppppps 

pppspppppspppppsppp 

Great success attends this system, and it is no longer a 
problem, but an established fact. 

These two kinds should blossom about the same time ; and 
we would suggest whether the complaint, that Hovey's is 
small in the last berries, is not owing, in part, to imperfect 
fertilization, from using staminate kinds with it that blossom 
earlier, as is usually the case. 

Longworth says, that he has never seen a pistillate plant 
that, by itself, would produce any perfect fmit 5 that stami- 
nate plants, when partially productive, generally produce the 
sweetest and finest fruit ; that the plant, be it staminate or 
pistillate, never changes its character by running, but pre- 
serves its primeval character. On this last point, some 
writers express a different opinion. 

Varieties. As the season of strawberries is short, a few 
kinds are sufficient. Until recently, the Early Virginia, and 
Wood, for a later succession, were nearly all that were cul- 
tivated in N. England. Recently, Hovey's Seedling is 
much cultivated as a later crop, and Early Virginia is used 
to fertilize it, and for an early crop also. The Wood is 
nearly abandoned. Experiments have been made on many 
others, none of which are much cultivated. A number of 
new seedlings are now on trial. 

Around Cincinnati, the Hudson has been cultivated the 
most, next the Neck Pine, the Early Virginia a little, and the 
Duke of Kent in a small way, as the earliest. Willey is pop- 
ular in some parts of the West. Iowa is used to fer- 
tilize the Hudson and Neck Pine. Many others are on trial. 

1. Early Virginia, Large Early, or 
Large Early Scarlet probably. Rath- 
er large ; roundish-oblong, varying 
to conical and ovate ; bright scarlet ; 
very juicy, excellent flavor, blending 
saccharine and sub-acid. June 12 to 
27. This is the best of all early straw- 
berries that are generally known in 
this section, being very vigorous, 
hardy, and a great bearer Recent- 
ly, Hovey's Seedling is cultivated 

23 Early Virginia. 




266 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



extensively with it, for a later succession. We think it is 
the Large Early, for nothing excels it alone, (page 262,) and 
with a pistillate, it serves as a fertilizer also. Perfect. Our 
engraving is not from the largest size. 

2. Hovey's Seed- 
ling. Extremely 
large ; roundish- 
oval, inclining to 
conical; deep,shin- 
ing scarlet, seeds 
slightly imbedded ; 
flesh firm, with a 
rich, sprightly fla- 
vor. June 20, and 
into July. Decid- 
edly pistillate. A 
prodigious bearer, 
with a staminate. 
Hardy and vigo- 
rous. Easy to pick 
and hull. One man 
picked, hulled, and 
arranged 100 quart 
boxes in a day. 
The best Straw- Hovey's Seedling. 

berry generally known in this section. Kaised in 1833 by 
Messrs. HoVey, of Boston, in their garden at Cambridge. 

3. Duke of Kent. Small ; roundish-conical ; scarlet ; good. 
The earliest kind, and valuable for this only. Flowers perfect. 

4. Boston Pine. Large ; roundish ; deep red; juicy, of a 
sweet, delicious flavor. A few days later than Early Virginia. 
Nearly perfect. Under high culture and vines thin, a great 
bearer; otherwise it fails. Lately introduced, and cultivators 
give various accounts of it. Anew seedling by Messrs. Hovey. 

5. Hudson. Very large ; flattish -conical ; dark red ; rath- 
er acid, but brisk and fine-flavored ; ripens in the middle 
season, with the Neck Pine. Pistillate, but a great bearer 
with a staminate. This is the principal kind cultivated about 
Cincinnati and Philadelphia ; in the former place more than 
all others ; being hardy, productive, and excellent. This is 
different from the Hudson of Boston and New York. 

6. Willey is nearly the same as the Hudson. Very pro- 
ductive, hardy. Elliott ranks it among the very best. 




THE STRAWBERRY. 



267 



7. Hudson Bay, Hudson of New York and Boston, Late 
Scarlet. Rather large ; ovate, necked ; dark shining red j 
flesh fifm, of a brisk acid flavor. Late. 

8. Black Prince, Black Imperial. Large ; roundish-ovate ; 
reddish-purplish-black ; flesh firm, of a high and excellent 
flavor. Only a little known in this country ; productive, vig- 
orous and hardy. It requires a strong soil, and a stami- 
nate kind with it. Ripens with Hovey's Seedling. Decidedly 
pistillate. Foreign. Eaton speaks favorably of it. 

9. Neck Pine. Large ; with a slender neck ; pale, bright, 
red ; flesh white, delicate, rather acid, but fine flavor. Ri- 
pens in the middle season. A great bearer, with a staminate. 
At Cincinnati, the next in importance to the Hudson, before 
Hovey's was introduced. Pistillate. 

10. Swainstone's Seed- 
ling. Large ; ovate-conical ; 
Ught glossy scarlet ; flesh 
solid, of very fine flavor. A 
vigorous grower, moderate 
bearer, being staminate. Be- 
gins to ripen rather early, and 
matures gradually. Beauti- 
ful. Foreign. 

11. Jenney's Seedling. Ra- 
ther large ; varying from flat- 
tish-round to roundish-coni- 
cal ; dark red ; flesh firm, and 
of the very highest flavor. 
A good grower and bearer. 
June 20 to July 4. 

12. Methven Castle, Meth- 
ven Scarlet, Warren's Seed- Swainstone's Seedling, 
ling, Eton. Very large ; roundish ; dull scarlet ; flesh coarse, 
soft, inferior. Ripe rather early. Pistillate. Few blossoms. 
Poor bearer. Foreign. 

13. Keene's Seedling. Very large ; purplish scarlet ; a 
rich, high flavor. It has a high reputation in England, but 
here Hovey's and others are preferred. Staminate, inclin- 
ing to perfect. 

14. Ross's Phxenix. Very large ; irregular coxcomb- 
shaped ; dark, purplish-red ; good flavor. Generally poor 
here. Sometimes, on a rich, deep loam, the crop is large. 
Ripe the middle season. Staminate. 




268 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



15. Iowa. Large ; early • staminate ; and valuable only 
as a fertilizer, and thus used about Cincinnati. 

16. Alpine, Bush and Running, and Wood, are too small 
for profit, and may be regarded as fancy kinds. They last 
long, and are of fine flavor. As the Bush Pine does not run, 
it is used for bordering, and is propagated by dividing the 
roots. The Wood is late, long in use, of fine flavor, much 
admired, but Hovey's is taking its place. Perfect. 

17. British Queen. Extremely large ; roundish •. scarlet -, 
fine, rich flavor. Rather early. But little known here. 
Rather tender. As it is staminate, it will not bear well in 
this country. 

18. Stoddard's Red Alpine. Some cultivators say it is 
the Old Alpine, others that it is new and valuable. 

19. Richardson's Seedlings. Mr. J. Richardson, Cam- 
bridgeport, Ms., has recently raised three seedlings, promis- 
ing, but not well tried, nor the condition of flowers known. 
Richardson' s Early ripens with Early Virginia, and is larger. 
Cambridge resembles Hovey's, and ripens with it. Richard- 
son's Late is very large • flavor fine. June 20 to July 10. 

20. Burr's New Pine. Large ; 
short-conical • light crimson ; 
sweet, rich, highly aromatic. 
Downing says, " One of the 3 
or 4 best sorts." Barry says, " It 
has no superior." Ripens with 
Hovey's Seedling. Not yet test- 
ed in this region. Hardy, vig- 
orous, and productive. Pistil- 
late. Originated by J. Bun*, 
Columbus, 0. 

21. Mulberry. Large ; 
round • very dark red •. juicy, 
of a fine, high flavor. 

22. Prolific Hautbois. 
Large ; conical • light purple, Burr's New Pine. 
blackish in the sun • sweet, rich, rather musky flavor, un- 
pleasant to some. Ripe rather early. Nearly perfect, inclin- 
ing to staminate. Pretty good bearer. This is a distinct 
species, and will not mix with others. 

23. Fay's Seedling. Very large ; roundish-conical ; deep 
red • juicy, very pleasant. June 20 to July 5. New and 
but little known. By Mr. Isaac Fay, Cambridge. 




THE CURRANT. 269 

24. Myatt's Deptford Pine. Very large ; wedge form ; 
bright scarlet ; flesh firm, with excellent flavor. Ripens the 
middle season. Staminate. 

25. Profuse Scarlet. A seedling from the Large Early- 
Scarlet, by Wm. R. Prince, and it resembles the parent ; but 
being pistillate, it is a greater bearer. Ripens with the Black 
Prince. 

26. Dundee. Rather large ; roundish ; scarlet ; rich high 
flavor, rather acid. Hardy, productive, late. 

THE CURRANT, (Ribes rubrum.) 

The Currant is a small shrub, remarkably hardy and pro- 
ductive, a native of the north of Europe. We have a few 
native useless kinds. 

Uses. The currant is acid, but juicy, and of a fine flavor. 
It is highly acceptable in the hot season in which it appears. 
Green or ripe, it is good for tarts and for sauce. It is used 
for jellies, and for condiments to many dishes, and is substi- 
tuted, for lemons in making a pleasant, cooling drink. An 
excellent wine is made from the juice, by adding 2 parts of 
water and 3 lbs. of sugar to the gallon ; but the better way 
is to make a strong syrup, by adding to the juice from each 
quart of currants a pound of sugar, straining and bottling, 
or putting into casks, and corking as tight as it will bear, 
and setting in a cool place in the cellar to prevent rapid fer- 
mentation. A little water may be added to the pomace, so 
as to make a quart bottle to each quart of currants and 
pound of sugar. We have kept this syrup one or two years, 
with nothing added, and it is always sweet and fine, and a 
far better medicine than imported wines, all of which con- 
tain alcohol, besides what is developed in the fermentation 
of the juice. 

A jam from black currants is used for sore throat. The 
currant will hang long on the bush, after ripe, if well shaded 
with leaves, and especially if covered with mats, cloths, &c. 
To keep the fruit, pick it when fully grown, dry from rain 
or dew, put into glass bottles, cork and seal tight, cover par- 
tially in sand or earth, in the cellar. 

Soil, Propagation, Culture, &c. The currant flourishes 

on almost every soil, from cold and wet to light and dry ; but 

a strong, tolerably moist, rich, deep loam is the best. Early 

in spring set cuttings in a good soil ; they will be sure to 

23* 



270 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

grow, and in two years be large enough to plant out. Or 
propagate by offsets, which, if set in the fall, will yield a 
tolerable crop the first year. One eighth of an acre, thus 
set, produced 500 quart boxes the first season. Set the 
bushes in rows 6 feet apart, and 4 feet apart in the rows. 

Many writers recommend training the currant as trees ; 
but when thus trained, they soon become stinted and covered 
with ross, and fail. But train as bushes, and cut out the old 
wood, and encourage a fresh growth, and they will long con- 
tinue to yield abundant crops of fine fruit. We have tried 
both ways, and proved these facts. 

The currant bears sparingly on the last year's growth, and 
mostly on two years' old wood. After the fruit is off, cut 
away at the ground the three years' old wood, especially all 
rossy or stinted stems, leaving the present and last year's 
wood. Remove feeble shoots, and, if thick, some of the 
present season's growth on the outside, to bring the bearing 
wood for next year outward. This will give greater growth 
and strength to the succeeding wood. Clip off 4, 5, 6 or 8 
inches of last year's growth, according to its height; this 
will cause a growth of spurs for an abundant crop, A lib- 
eral dressing should be applied and worked in around the 
bushes. If this be neglected in summer, attend to it in the 
fall or early in the spring ; but the crop will be less for so 
late culture, the same as with the strawberry, (page 265.) 

Insects, The currant-bush borer is produced from a blue^ 
black moth, which appears about the middle of June, and 
lays eggs singly near the buds, which hatch, and the young 
borer enters the stem to the pith, which it devours, forming 
a burrow 4 or 5 inches in length, destroying the bush. A 
remedy is difficult. Cut off and burn all affected stems. 
Apply to the bushes, before the season of the moths, lye or 
potash water, sulphur, tobacco, or other offensive matters. 
Smoking the bushes may be beneficial. For various insects 
on the foliage, apply whale oil soap. 

Varieties. But little attention has been paid to raising 
currants from seed. Yet a few superior kinds have been 
produced, which encourages further experiments. The small 
currant is well known, as it is cultivated all over the coun- 
try, but it is becoming measurably supplanted by larger 
kinds. 

1. Red Dutch, Large Red Dutch. Much larger than con> 
mon red, and less acid ; large clusters. 



THE CURRANT. 



2. White Dutch, Ne?v 
White Dutch, Large; yel- 
lowish-white, transparent ; 
much less acid than red 
currants. Perfectly hardy, 
even " away Down East." 

3. Champagne. Large ; 
of a pale pink color, be- 
tween the red and white. 

4. Knight's Early Red. 
A week or ten days earlier 
than other varieties. 

5. Knight's Sweet Red. 
Not perfectly sweet, but 
comparatively so, being less 
acid than the White Dutch. 

6. May's Victoria. A 
new variety from England. 
We have had bunches over 
five inches long. The ber- 
ries are very large, bright 
red, excellent flavor, and 
hang long on the bush in 
perfection. Foliage thick, 
deep green. Of great ex- 
cellence. 

7. Cherry. Very large, 
hence its name ; round ; 
crimson ; agreeable flavor. 
Of a beautiful appearance. 
The bush is vigorous . Poor 
bearer, not worth cultivat- 
ing. Recently introduced 
from Italy, via France. 

8. Black Naples. The 
largest and best of all black 
currants. The fruit is rath- 
er late. Good bearer. It 
will not endure a southern 
climate. 

9. Common Black. In- 
ferior to the above. 

10. Ornamental Kinds, 




May's Victoria. 



272 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

Missouri Currant, from the Rocky Mountains, is admired for 
its fragrant yellow blossoms ; and the Red Flowering Cur- 
rant, from the western part of America, bears beautiful 
clusters of large crimson flowers. But it is too tender for 
the North. 

THE GOOSEBERRY, (Grossulacece.) 

The Gooseberry mostly cultivated in this country is a 
native of the north of Europe, and has been greatly im- 
proved by cultivation, and thousands of varieties produced 
from seed. It is raised largely in the cool, moist climate of 
England, but in our hot, dry summers it often fails, even in 
the Northern States. It is still more uncertain in the Middle 
States, and it almost totally fails in the South. It is subject 
to mildew or blight. In Canada, and other northern regions, 
it succeeds better. We have several native varieties. They 
are quite common in our swamps, and are often found on 
high lands. These, though small, are of excellent quality, 
and from them, by seed and cultivation, we can get valuable 
kinds. 

Uses. In the green state the fruit is excellent for pies, 
tarts, sauces, puddings, &c, and it is early in use. Some 
of the most palatable kinds are very acceptable as a dessert. 
They make fine preserves. 

Soil and Management. As the gooseberry in this climate 
suffers from heat and drought, the soil should be a deep, 
moist loam, well manured and cultivated. Trenching, sub- 
soiling, or trench ploughing, is an advantage, as it supplies 
moisture in a dry time. A cool location is preferable. The 
north side of a paling fence is a good situation. In addition 
to compost manure, soot is excellent, and so is a little salt. 

New varieties are raised from seed, and desirable kinds 
are propagated by layers, cuttings, and offsets. Select 
thrifty shoots of the previous year, and plant them in a 
moist, rich, and partially shaded soil, early in fall, or early 
in spring. If you would train them as trees, cut out all 
buds that would go below the surface, to prevent suckers ; 
but, like the currant, the gooseberry succeeds best when 
trained as bushes, as it affords the advantage of cutting out 
the old wood, and training up new, thus renewing the plant, 
and rendering it more durable and productive. Those who 
train as trees, show the impropriety of their own system, 
by stating that they are short-lived, as to their utility. 



THE GOOSEBERRY. 



273 



The cuttings should be about one foot long, and one half 
set below the ground. In one or two years they may be set 
out permanently. Prune liberally as soon as the crop is off, 
or in fall or early spring, — the sooner the better ; removing 
the old wood, and thinning out the poorest branches, when 
they are thick, so as to admit air and light. Clip off the tops. 
On good management the quality and size of the fruit great- 
ly depend. In training as trees, allow no suckers, unless 
the tree is declining, and a vigorous sucker is trained to take 
its place. In June it may be necessary to pinch off vigorous 
shoots, to give more nutriment to the fruit, and thin the fruit 
when too abundant. 

To prevent mildew and produce good crops, select a cool 
soil and airy situation. Cultivate well and. deeply ; prune 
well. Lay salt hay, sea- weed, or other litter, with one or 
two quarts of fine salt to a square rod, around the bushes. 
Lime and sulphur, incorporated into the surface soil, are good 
against mildew. When by a white-washed fence or wall, 
they are not so liable to mildew. Wood ashes, sifted on 
when the leaves are just out, and once or twice after, is also 
good against the mildew. Spent tan around the bushes is 
said to prevent the effects of gooseberry caterpillars, that are 
sometimes destructive. 

Varieties are numerous — almost endless, few only of 
which are worthy the attention of American cultivators. 
The following are the best, arranged in order of preference. 

1. Houghton's Seedling. 
Rather small ; oval ; skin 
thin ; reddish brown ; flesh 
very fine, tender, sweet and 
superior, particularly for the 
dessert. A prodigious grow- 
er and great bearer. We set 
small layers, and the next 
year, all the shoots were cov- 
ered with fruit. Hardy ; the 
only kind free from mildew. 
Habits like Crown Bob. The 
best kind for general culture. 

Origin, Lynn, Ms., by Abel Houghton's Seedling. 

Houghton, and doubtless from our native kind 

2. Red Warrington. Rather large ; roundish oblong ; 
hairy ; first quality, rather late ; drooping branches. Hangs 
on long, without cracking, and improves in flavor. 




274 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



3. Crown Bob, Melling's 
Crown Bob. Large; round- 
ish-oval ; red ; hairy ; first 
quality ; spreading branches. 

4. Whitesmith, Wood- 
war oVs Whitesmith. Large ; 
roundish-oblong ; white ; 
downy ; first quality ; erect 
branches. 

5. Roaring Lion, Farrowh 
Roaring Lion. Extremely 
large ; oblong ; red ; smooth ; 
fine flavor ; hangs long • 
drooping branches. 

6. Parkinson's Laurel. 
Large ; obovate ; green ; 
downy ; first quality ; erect 
branches. 

7. Green Walnut. Medial ; 
obovate ; green ; smooth : first 
quality ; spreading branches. 

8. Keene's Seedling. Medial: 
oblong ; red ; hairy ; first quali- 
ty ; early ; drooping branches. 

9. Early Sulphur. Medial ; 
roundish; yellow; hairy; first 
quality; very early; erect 
branches. 

10. Red Champagne. Small ; 
roundish-oblong ; hairy ; rich 
flavor ; erect branches. 

11. Yellow Champagne. 
Small; roundish; hairy; first 
quality ; upright branches. 

12. Venus. Medial: obovate 
vor ; hangs on long ; erect branches 




Whitesmith. 



white ; hairy ; finest fla 



THE RASPBERRY AND BLACKBERRY. 
The Raspberry (Rubus ideus) 

Is a small, low shrub, a native of Europe and America, 
of rapid growth and easy culture. 

Uses. The fruit is very highly esteemed, being of a 



THE RASPBERRY AND BLACKBERRY. ^75 

Eleasant subacid flavor, and very refreshing; cooling, and 
ealthful; coming in during the hot season, immediately after 
the strawberry. It commands a high price in market, gen- 
erally retailing in Boston at 30 cents per quart. It is used 
for sauces, jellies, jams, preserves, tarts, and ices. Wine and 
syrup are made of the juice, the same as from the currant ; 
it also makes a refreshing drink. 

Soil, Propagation, Culture, &c. It flourishes on soils 
varying from moist to dry ; but the best is a rich, deep, 
rather moist, sandy loam. It will pay well for liberal ma- 
nuring, and high culture. Allow no grass or weeds among 
the bushes. Propagate by offsets, containing 2 or 3 canes, 
or sprouts, if convenient, and set them 5 feet between rows, 
and 3 or 4 feet between hills, which will allow of conven- 
ient culture. The American Black and White, and Ohio 
Everbearing, may be propagated by layering the reversed 
branches. 

The raspberry bears on new growth, on last year's canes. 
Soon after the crop is off, cut away at the ground all the old 
stems, and the feeble young ones, leaving 5 or 6 of the best 
new canes; and manure and work it into the soil. Better 
do this as soon as the crop is off, as it gives strength and 
firmness to the young shoots ; but it may be done in fall or 
early spring. 

Cut off 6 or 12 inches of the young shoots. In fall lay 
down the canes, bending them over a heap of earth around 
the root, to prevent their breaking, and cover them about 
3 inches deep in soil, or with sea-weed, evergreen boughs, 
Ace. In spring take them up and tie them to a stake, 
allowing them to spread at top. It flourishes far better, es- 
pecially in dry soil, if the ground be covered a few inches 
deep with salt hay, sea-weed, or other litter. Late fruit 
may be had by cutting the canes down near the ground, or 
by cutting off the new growth soon after it has started. A 
good crop will give a quart to each hill, or more. 

Varieties. Most of our choice kinds are foreign ; but of 
late, some native seedlings have been introduced, claiming 
peculiar merit. The foreign need protection in winter, par- 
ticularly in the North. The new natives have not been well 
tested in cold regions. American Black, White and Red, 
and the Ohio Everbearing, are perfectly hardy, and need no 
protection. Franconia is tolerably hardy, but needs to be 
covered in the North. 



276 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




Franconia is best for the market, Red Antwerp next, Ohio 
for a later succession ; American Black is also excellent, and 
the best of all for cooking. FastolfT is new, (Buist says old, 
under a new name,) and fine for the private garden, but the 
fruit is too tender for transportation. Dr. Brinkle's new 
kinds are promising. 

1. Red Antwerp, New Red Ant- 
werp, True Red Antwerp. Large ; 
conical ; dull red j flesh firm, rich, 
juicy, with a fine, sweet, high fla- 
vor. July 15 to 30. Canes tolera- 
bly strong, pale brown ; leaves large. 
There is a small Red Antwerp cul- 
tivated in this country, much infe- 
rior to the New or True. 

2. Yellow Antwerp, White Ant- 
werp. Large ; nearly conical ; pale 
yellow ; sweet and fine flavor. Canes 
stout, vigorous, yellow, with many 
spines. Bears long in succession. 
2d week in July. 

3. Franconia. Very large ; obtuse 
conical ; bright purplish red ; flesh firm, 
of a rich, brisk, acid flavor, more tart 
than Red Antwerp ; superior for pre- 
serves. July 25 to Aug. 10. Adapted 
to northern culture, being more hardy 
than most foreign kinds. Canes strong, 
spreading, brownish, with few stout 
spines ; leaves long, narrow, deep green. 

4. Ohio Everbearing. Ohio. Like 
the American Black in every respect, 
excepting it bears largely late in the 
season, even to Oct. and Nov., where 
the season is long enough. Valuable 
to keep up a long succession. 

5. American Black, Black Raspberry, Thimbleberry . This 
variety is well known. It grows spontaneously on new and 
old lands, in cold, rich, wet soils ; and on warm, dry, poor 
situations. It improves by cultivation. Very vigorous, 
hardy, and productive, and the fruit is excellent, particularly 
for tarts, pies, and other culinary purposes. It is small ; 
rather flat or semi-globular : dark purple or black ; rather 



Red Antwerp. 




Franconia. 



THE BLACKBERRY. 



277 




TllfflfWjp » 

Fastolff. 



acid, but of a brisk, pleasant flavor. Ripens rather late, 
and is long in succession. 

6. American White is like the above, excepting in color, 
which is a whitish yellow, and the bushes are more vig- 
orous. 

7. Fastolff. Very large; oval- 
conical ; bright purplish red ; ten- 
der, very rich and high flavor ; 
same time as Red Antwerp ; con- 
tinues long in succession. Canes 
stout, upright, and branching, with 
strong spines. 

8. Cushino. Large ; fine flavor ; 
very productive. June 12 in Phil- 
adelphia, where it was originated by 
Dr. W. D. Brinkle, who describes it 
in the Horticulturist, and names it 
in honor of J. P. Gushing, Esq., Wa- 
tertown, Ms., a distinguished patron 
of agriculture and horticulture. 

9. Orange. Very large; deep 

crimson ; excellent flavor. July. By the same. 

10. Col. Wilder. Size of Fastolff, roundish; cream-col- 
ored ; flavor fine. Vigorous, and promises to be hardy. By 
the same, in Horticulturist. Named in honor of the late 
President of Mass. Hor. Society. 

11. Victoria. A new English ever-bearing variety of 
high pretensions. Not fully tested in this country. 

12. Nottingham Scarlet. Medial ; obtuse -conical ; red ; 
of the finest flavor. Bears well. 

13. American Red, Common Red. Medial ; roundish ; 
red ; pleasant, rather acid flavor. Earlier than most foreign 
kinds. Very common of natural growth. Preferred for im- 
parting flavor to liquors. 

The Blackberry. 

The Blackberry, of several species, is a native of this 
country, and grows spontaneously, producing abundant crops 
of superior fruit on new lands. When of large size, it is 
more spirited and of richer flavor than the raspberry. We 
have seen this fruit sold at SI a quart, that was not a whit 
better (though fine) than we have picked (a quart without 
moving from our steps) on new lands in Maine, of which 
24 



278 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



our engraving is a true type. "We have measured bushes 
of one year's growth 10 feet high. We did not dream, in 
our boyhood, when tearing our legs among thousands of 
brambles, of ever seeing this fruit cultivated, and sold at 
enormous prices. 

The blackberry ripens long in succession, coming in im- 
mediately after the raspberry. Owing to its great excellence, 
bees, wasps, flies, &c. claim a large share. Some blackber- 
ries are white, but they are as great an anomaly as a white 
blackbird, or white crow, which is seldom seen. 

Uses. This fruit, in perfection, is not excelled by any 
that the wide world produces. It is delicious for the dessert. 
It is excellent for tarts, pies, puddings, cakes, and various 
other purposes. With milk, it makes an excellent dish. The 
juice makes superior wine and excellent vinegar for the table. 
"We now have a few gallons of vinegar of the most beautiful 
color, retaining the peculiar blackberry flavor. 

Soil, Propagation, and Culture. The blackberry grows 
freely in a warm, tolerably dry or rather moist, deep, rich 
soil. It abounds among stones, old logs, fences, and natural 
hedges. Keep the land rich and mellow. Besides other ma- 
nures, use ashes, leaves, and vegetable mould. It is propa- 
gated by seeds, and by offsets at the 
roots. Train up new wood, and cut away 
the old, to keep the bushes vigorous and 
productive. 

1. High Bush, (Rubus villosvs.) Fruit 
large ; long-ovate ; shining black ; very 
tender, juicy, of a sweet, rich, spirited, 
aromatic flavor, resembling the orange. 
Growth straight and upright, then the 
tops become recumbent. White blos- 
soms. Downing's account of this fruit 
does not come up to the valuable wild 
variety in Maine. 

2. Low Bush, (Rnbus canadensis.) 
Small ; roundish or irregular ; black or 
reddish-black ; rather tart, but brisk, 
pleasant flavor. High Bush. 




THE CRANBERRY. 



279 



THE CRANBERRY, (Oxycoccus macrocarpus.) 

A great deal has 
been written on the 
cultivation of the 
cranberry, and most- 
ly without system 
or science, and if 
written from prac- 
tice, it is from few 
and limited experi- 
ments. The cran- 
berry grows wild in 
marshes, meadows, 
and around the ponds 
in N. England, and 
it is common in 
Michigan and other 
parts of the West. 
In some cases, it has 
been found grow- 
ing spontaneously 
on high land, which 
has led to various 
experiments with this plant on common tillage, where it 
yields superior fruit, of extra size, and is more exempt from 
frost, so destructive on low lands, where the thermometer, on 
a still night, is 6 or 7 degrees lower than on high land. 

Uses. As this fruit becomes better known, and the quan- 
tity increases, the demand increases also. So little was it 
known some years ago, that when a gentleman of Boston 
sent to a distant friend a barrel of cranberries, he acknowl- 
edged the receipt, but was sorry that the fruit had spoiled by 
souring on the way. This is one of the finest of all fruits 
for sauces and tarts, it is also good for jellies, &c. ; it makes 
a cooling drink very useful in fevers and inflammatory com- 
plaints. By partially drying, it may be kept through the 
winter. It is also kept in good condition a long time in 
water ; and in this way it is exported to distant parts of the 
world. 

Culture on Wet Lands. Nearly all the cranberries of 
spontaneous production are found on low, wet lands, that are 




280 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

flooded a part of the season. Many and various experi- 
ments have been made to improve the natural cranberry 
meadows. The most successful management is by applying 
sand as a dressing, and that from the sea-shore is best. And 
it may be inferred that salt is useful, from the cranberry 
growing on salt marshes, which we have noticed in several 
instances in Maine. One writer on this subject says that 
the cranberry grows well in sand and water. Prepare a bog 
meadow for cranberries by ploughing, if convenient, and 
applying about two inches of sand to the surface, and set 
the vines in small sods, in rows 2 feet apart, and 12 to 15 
inches in the rows, and they will soon spread over the land, 
and yield a full crop. 

It has often been remarked that the vines will oust the 
grass and weeds ; but Lieut. Gov. Reed informed us that he 
planted the cranberry on wet land, and for a few years it 
had been expensive keeping down the weeds and grass. 
They must be kept down the first year, at least. 

We have observed around a mill-pond very fine cranber- 
ries, on as dry, as poor, and porous a soil as we ever saw ; 
but a friend remarked that, if planted, they would not flour- 
ish any higher up the banks than the water flowed in winter. 
Cranberries on wet lands are greatly improved by flooding ; 
and sometimes the flooding is continued till late in spring, 
say the first of May or later, in order to retard blossoming, 
lest the blossoms should be killed by frost. As frosts are 
very destructive, some have meadows so planned that they 
can be flooded when a cold night is at hand. 

Culture on High Land. Much may doubtless be done 
to advantage on high land. We have seen the cranberry 
starting spontaneously on very hard, tolerably moist grass 
upland, and spreading rapidly, yielding good fruit. We saw 
fine cranberries of natural growth in a field, close by which 
the owner was reaping a good crop of barley. We exam- 
ined the soil, and it was dry and sandy, with a layer of 
shallow vegetable mould at the surface ; yet apparently wet 
in spring, from its level situation. Where a gravelly knoll 
had been reduced, for a road, we saw excellent cranberries, 
of spontaneous production, on dry, hard, and poor soil. On 
another spot, we saw fine fruit by the roadside, on a very 
poor, dry, hard soil. 

With these cases of good crops under every disadvantage, 
it would be surprising if cranberries should not grow well 



THE CRANBERRY. 281 

on high land, under good culture. Fowler thinks they will 
not endure the heat of summer, nor cold of winter, on dry 
land. He manures with peat or mud, in winter protects 
plants and fruit with evergreens, and has fine crops. 

In raising on high Jand, it would be well to select rather 
moist tillage, and use peat and muck for manure, which is 
their natural soil. We think that a black, moist, sandy 
loam would be best. It would be well to make experiments 
in the use of salt, and other manure. Those plants that 
naiurally grow on high land, would, doubtless, be better for 
this purpose. 

Natural meadows yield 1 to 200 bushels to the acre — 100 
is most common. By cultivation, in some instances, the 
yield has been at the rate of 2 to 300. With a rake, a hand 
will generally gather 15 to 20 bushels in a day. More 
experience is necessary to show a profit by high land culture, 
and the most successful mode ; also the best mode of im- 
proving low lands. By setting thick, in transplanting, 
a good crop will be obtained sooner ; and vines transplant- 
ed with sods will be the surest. 

THE FIG, (Ficus carica.) 

The fig is a low, spreading tree, a 
native of the warm regions of Asia. 
It is too tender for the cold winters of 
the North, yet if it be kept in a warm 
room or cellar during winter, our sum- 
mers are sufficiently long and warm 
to produce excellent fruit in the open 
air. In the Middle States the tree 
needs in-door protection ; or the 
branches may be bent down and cov- 
ered in earth, in the warmest part of 
that region. It is hardy south of 
Virginia, and might be cultivated with Miniature Leaf. 
profit. In the south of Europe it is raised to a great extent. 
The fig, apparently, has no blossom, like No Blows in apples, 
but has a development of stamens and pistils in a fleshy 
substance, which is the embryo fruit. The fruit is very 
sweet and rich ; it is nutritive, laxative, and wholesome. 

Soil, Propagation, Culture, &c. The best soil is a 
deep, only tolerably rich, rather moist, yellow loam, with a 
24* 




282 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



dry subsoil. It is propagated by cuttings, or layers. Plant 
early in a tolerably moist, partially shaded place. In N. 
England they are raised in pots, or tubs, protected, during 
winter, in cellars, warm rooms, or green -houses, and set out 
to bear fruit in the warm season. Mr. S. Tewksbury, 
of Chelsea, Ms., a very skilful horticulturist, protects his 
trees in the cellar, set in fine loam, and in spring he plants 
them out in his garden, where they grow readily, yielding 
good crops of fine fruit. As the fig has a mat of fine 
fibrous roots, it is admirably adapted to this mode of culture. 
Prune sparingly ; only cut out dead wood, and shorten in 
long, straggling branches. Add a little salt to the manure. 

1. Brown Turkey, Large Blue, Brown Naples. Large; 
oblong or pyriform ; dark brown, with blue bloom ; flesh red : 
of a delicious flavor. Hardy, regular, and good bearer, ana 
one of the best for open culture in this country. 

2. Brunswick, Black Naples. Very large ; pyriform ; 
oblique apex ; brown in the sun ; pale greenish-yellow in 
the shade ; stalk short and thick ; eye sunk ; flesh reddish- 
brown, pink near the centre ; of rich and excellent flavor. 
Hardy, and adapted to open culture. One of the best. 

3. Black Fig of the 
Azores. Medial; irregu- 
lar pyriform ; excellent fla- 
vor. Very productive. 
Allen describes this in the 
Horticulturist, from which 
we copy. He raises it un- 
der glass, having a tree 
trained to the back wall, 
covering ten feet high by 
18 wide. It produced 400 
specimens at one crop, and 
two crops in a year. 

4. Black Ischia. Me- 
dial ; roundish; flattened at 
the apex ; dark violet, al- 
most black fully ripe ; flesh 
deep red, of a very sweet, 
luscious flavor. Very 
fruitful, and tolerably 
hardy. 

5. Marseilles, White 
Celestial. Small : round- Black Fig of the Azores. 




THE ALMOND. 283 

ish ; pale yellowish-white ; flesh white, rather dry, but 
sweet and rich. Not suited to open culture, but excellent 
for forcing and raising under glass. 

6. Nerii. Small ; roundish-obovate ; pale greenish-yellow; 
flesh red ; flavor delicate and rich. Loudon says it is the 
richest fig in Britain. 

7. Alicant. R. Chisholm, Beaufort, S. C, figures this 
in Horticulturist, and says this and Celestial are the two 
best cultivated there. The Alicant is extremely large. 
Bears early and abundantly. 

THE ALMOND. 

The Almond is a native of Asia and Africa, resembling 
the peach in leaf and wood, and they are grown on each 
other's stocks. Some botanists suppose them the same thing. 
The main distinction is in the fruit ; the peach having a 
soft, thick, luscious pulp, which is its fruit, and the almond 
a tough, leather-like covering ; the meat of the stone being 
the fruit. 

Uses. The almond is used in cookery, confectionery, 
medicine, and perfumery. The Sweet is excellent food. 
The Bitter affords prussic acid, a powerful poison. The 
almond is cultivated extensively in the south of Europe, and 
exported to many parts of the world. 

Soil, Propagation, Climate, &c. It requires the same 
soil, and is propagated in the same way as the peach. It 
flourishes well on thrifty plum stocks. Some varieties suc- 
ceed well in the Middle States, but better at the South. N. 
England and other northern regions are too cold for this 
fruit, though some ornamental varieties flourish here. 

1. Long Hard-Shell. Nuts large; very long. A good, 
hardy variety, adapted to the Middle and Western States, and 
probably to the South. Large, handsome flowers, very orna- 
mental. Last of Sept. and first of Oct. 

2. Common, Common S?veet. Nuts medial size; hard; 
pleasant flavor, but not so fine as the preceding ; bears 
well. Hardy, adapted to the Middle Region of the U. S. and 
further South. 

3. Soft-Shell Sweet, Ladies' Thin Shell The best 
variety. It suceeeds in the Middle and Western States in 
favorable situations only ; well adapted to the South. Early. 



284 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 



The blossoms and leaves appear together. Fruit large, very 
long-oval. Shell tender. Meat sweet and fine. 

4. The Bitter. Fruit large ; bitter. The tree is produc- 
tive ; leaves long, dark green ; blossoms large. 

5. Ornamental Varieties. The Large Double Flower- 
ing is beautiful, with large whitish flowers. The Dwarf 
Double Flowering is a low and most beautiful shrub, thickly 
covered in spring with small, double, pink blossoms. 

THE ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, SHADDOCK, AND 
CITRON. 

These are all of the same genus 
and habits, though of different spe- 
cies. This family of plants is a 
native of Asia, but it is cultivated 
extensively in the south of Europe, 
and in the West Indies, and mod- 
erately in Florida, where it flourishes 
well, as it would, also, in the other 
southern sections of the U. S.. where 
the wild orange furnishes a hardy 
stock. "With a slight protection in 
winter, it will succeed in other parts 
of the South. The orange may be 
budded in June, from last year's scions, and a good growth 
made the same season, or they may be budded in Aug. 
from new scions. 

Soil, Culture, Insects, &c. The soil should be a rich, 
friable loam, and the culture thorough, with frequent stirring 
the soil. Raise stocks from seed, preferring the native. 
Graft or bud. The scale insect has been very destructive. 
It is small, oval, brownish, adhering closely to the bark and 
under side of the leaves. As a remedy, hang up branches 
of strong scented herbs, as camomile, mints, &c, in the 
branches, or apply a strong decoction of these herbs. "Whale- 
oil soap may be effectual, as it is good against most insects. 
(Page 73.) 

1. The Orange is the finest tree, and its fruit is ihe most 
esteemed of this family. "With its round, golden fruit, and 
dark green foliage, its appearance is beautiful. The ripe 
fruit is very delicious, refreshing and wholesome. The green 
is used for preserves and confectionery. The rind and pulp 
are used in cookery ; the flowers for perfumery. 




Orange Tree. 



ORANGE, LEMON, LIME, SHADDOCK, CITRON. 285 

The most valuable kind is the Common Sweet. The 
Maltese and Blood Red are also highly esteemed for then- 
fine flavor. Their flesh is red. The St. Michael is of a de- 
licious flavor. Seville is bitter and sharp, and used mostly 
for marmalade. It has large and fragrant flowers. The 
Bergamot has fragrant leaves, flowers and fruit, and pro- 
duces bergamot essence, so highly valued in perfumery. 
Others are cultivated as ornaments, or curiosities. 

2. The Lemon yields fruit of a longer form than the or- 
ange ; pale yellow ; fine, pleasant acid ; used for lemonade 
and other cooling drinks. The skin abounds in essential oil, 
valuable in perfumery, and as a pleasant savor for various 
dishes. The Italian Sweet is good for the dessert. 

3. The Lime is similar to the lemon, but not quite so acid, 
rich, or pleasant. It is often preserved green. 

4. The Shaddock bears very large fruit, weighing 6 or 7 lbs., 
of splendid appearance, but of little value. Its juice is 
saccharine and sub-acid. It is a tropical fruit. 

5. The Citron produces fruit shaped like the lemon, but 
much larger, yellow, warted, and furrowed. The rind is 
fragrant, the pulp sub-acid, and used for sweetmeats and 
preserves. 

THE OLIVE, (Oleina.) 

This is a large shrub, with spreading head, and narrow, 
bluish-green leaves. A native of the temperate regions of 
Asia and Africa, but long, and now extensively, cultivated 
in the south of Europe, where its oil is used for various 
kinds of cookery ; it is also exported largely. The fruit is 
valuable for pickles. It is of easy culture. The best soil is 
dry, rocky regions. It is propagated by cuttings, layers, and 
seeds ; also by tumors, which form on the bark of the trunk, 
and are planted like bulbs. It is tolerably hardy, but not 
adapted to the North ; of remarkable longevity, though 
coming rather early into bearing. The Southern States are 
well adapted to its cultivation. 

Varieties are numerous. The following are the best : — 
The Common European, generally used for main crops. The 
Long Leaved is much cultivated in France. In Spain the 
Broad Leaved is much esteemed. It is very large, and yields 
an abundance of oil ; but it is too strong to be relished 
abroad. Olivier Picholine is the most valuable for pickles. 



286 AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 

The Weeping is hardy, and yields an abundance of fine oil ; 
the tree is large ; branches pendent ; flourishes in most 
locations. The American (O/ea Americana) is a native of 
the Southern States ; useless for fruit, but may be valuable 
for stocks to graft on. 

NUTS. 

The Chestnut is a noble tree, very common in our forests, 
also in Europe. The fruit is excellent. The Spanish is the 
largest, but it is rather tender for the North. The Dwarf 
Chestnut, or Chinquapin, forms a low tree of small fruit. 
The chestnut may be easily propagated by seed or grafting. 
It requires warm, mellow soil. 

The English Walnut, or Madeira Nut, is a lofty tree, 
bearing fine fruit. It is rather tender for the North, but 
may be cultivated by raising trees from the seed, and if they 
are killed raise sprouts from them. In this way it has be- 
come hardy in this region. Propagated by seeds, and by 
grafting on other similar kinds. 

The Filbert is like our hazel nut, but far larger, being 
improved from the native in Europe. Propagated by seed, 
layers, and suckers. Cultivate well, and prune closely, and 
they are of easy production. The English are the best. 
The following are choice kinds. 

1. Frizzled. Nut medial size; oval, compressed; husk 
hairy ; shell thick ; kernel sweet and good. 

2. Red. Medial ; ovate ; thick shell ; peculiar and excel- 
lent flavor. 

3. Cosford. Large; oblong ; hairy ; thin shell; excellent 
flavor ; good bearer. 

4. White. Medial; ovate; whitish; husks long; excel- 
lent flavor. 

The Shellbark, or Hickory Nut, the Butternut and 
Black Walnut, with some variations, which occasionally 
indicate improvement, are well known in many of our for- 
ests and markets. 

POMEGRANATE, (Pumica granatum.) 

The Pomegranate is a native of Europe and Asia. It 
flourishes well in this country in the South, and the southern 
parts of the Middle Region, in favorable locations. The 
fruit is very beautiful, of the size of a large peach, with a 



THE MULBERRY. BARBERRY. 



2S7 



hard skin, of a yellow color, 
with a red cheek. It is sweet, 
or sub-acid, and pleasant, of a 
cooling nature, and used in med- 
icine as a febrifuge. The tree 
is ornamental, of low growth, 
and slender branches. It is pro]> 
agated by seeds, layers, cutting, 
and grafting. The soil should 
be rich and warm. 

The Varieties are the Sweet. 
the Sub-acid) and the Acid or 
Wild, with a sharp flavor, mak- 
ing an excellent syrup for fevers 
and inflammations. There are 
some ornamental kinds. 




Miniature Branch and Fruit. 



THE MULBERRY (Morus) 

Is a tree of low growth and easy culture, on common til- 
lage. The fruit is excellent and wholesome. 
Propagated by seeds, layers, cuttings, and roots. 

1. The Black (Morus nigra) originated in 
Asia, and is rather tender for the North, yet it suc- 
ceeds here tolerably well. The fruit is large and 
delicious. The tree is of a low, spreading form. 

2. The Red (Morus rubra) is a native ; the fruit 
is small and pleasant ; but much inferior to the 
Black, and to the following : — 

3. Johnson. The Horticulturist contains the 
following account of this new native variety, 
from Kirtland. "Fruit very large; oblong, cy- 
lindric ; blackish : sub-acid, and of mild and 
agreeable flavor. Growth of wood strong." 

THE BARBERRY, (Berberis.) 

The Barberry, or Berberry, grows wild 
in many parts of the country, and in Eu- 
rope. It is a prickly shrub, 4, 5, 6, and 
even 8 or 10 feet high. It grows sponta- 
neously on hard, poor, gravelly soils ; also 
in cool, moist situations, among stones, by 
walls, and old fences. It is propagated by 
seeds, suckers, and offsets. The fruit 




Black. 




288 



AMERICAN FRUIT BOOK. 




is used for preserves, jellies, pickles, tarts, 
&c. Preserves are much improved by 
using one half sweet apples, or the outer 
part of a fine water-melon, such as the Red 
Imperial. 

The tannin principle is in the bark ; and 
the bark and wood are used to color yel- 
low. Owing to its rapid growth, durabil- 
ity, and the beauty of the flower, fruit, 
and. whole plant, it is admirably adapted 
to a protective and ornamental hedge. It 
grows on land dry or moist, rich or poor. 
The objection to it as a hedge is its dispo- 
sition to spread. As to its blasting grain 
in its vicinity, the question is unsettled : 
but the weight of evidence shows that it 
is harmless. 



"WHORTLEBERRY AND BLUEBERRY. 

The Black Whortleberry {V actinium resinosnm) is a 
small shrub, from 2 to 6 feet high, generally growing in 
moist soils and swamps, producing small, round, sweet, and 
excellent fruit, ripening the latter part of summer. 

The Low Blueberry (Vaccinium tenellum) is a small, low 
bush, 6 to 12 inches high, growing in beds, or bunches, on 
dry hills and mountains, but most extensively on light pine 
plains, producing blue berries of similar form and quality to 
the whortleberry, but rather larger, more tender, and some- 
what earlier, ripening at midsummer. Both kinds may be 
improved by cultivation, and raising seedlings. 

SHEPHERDIA, OR BUFFALO BERRY. 

This is an ornamental shrub, 6* to 
12 feet high, with beautiful silvery 
leaves. The fruit is small; round- ^ 
ish ; red ; excellent for preserves \ ' 
It is dioBcious, that is, has the stami- 
nate flowers on one tree, and the 
pistillate on another, and all the fruit j 
is on the latter. They are set in 
pairs, from 6 to 10 or 15 feet apart. 

FINIS. 




I 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




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